Arrrgh! Bevelled a caliper bolt.

[scc]

Just tried to change my rear disks, but I was defeated at the first hurdle.

Jacked up the car, removed the wheels, and I've spent the morning and afternoon trying to get the flipping guide bolt loose. Now its completely bevelled because it is on that tight!

How on earth did you guys get all four bolts loose? Did you use a breaker bar?

a very cheesed off scc.

[Kieran]

.... Did you use a breaker bar?...

Yes - One of my guide bolts was tight and I had to resort to this.

[scc]

Thanks! I thought those bolts were on at 75nm.

I'm pretty sure I was turning a lot harder than 75nm.

Have to wait 2 weeks for a new bolt to arrive before my next attempt.

Cheers,
Scc

[scc]

I've just checked the torque specs for a 2001 V6 from a hayes manual.

Rear caliper guide pin/lock pin bolts -> 43nm

Rear caliper mounting bracket bolts -> 60nm

Can anyone confirm these torque settings?

Cheers,
scc

[Big Ian]

/Hmmm dont know if this would work on our/your brake's!.. but i had a hell O a time once with the brake's on a Granada i owned and a chap from the RAC told me to boil the kettle and pour the hot water over the caliper... /yes yip it worked, made the bolt's loosen easier must have been to do with the difference in the metal's and the heat expanding the right part :rolleyes4

[ANTHONY]

/Hmmm dont know if this would work on our/your brake's!.. but i had a hell O a time once with the brake's on a Granada i owned and a chap from the RAC told me to boil the kettle and pour the hot water over the caliper... /yes yip it worked, made the bolt's loosen easier must have been to do with the difference in the metal's and the heat expanding the right part :rolleyes4 thats and old trick we used when i was plumbing but we used a blowlamp:evil2: but a bit dodgy on a car so stick to the boiling water

[scc]

Called up mitsubishi today and they quoted the following torque settings for the rear calipers:

Slider bolts -> 70nm
Caliper mounting bolts ->49-59 nm

Is that right?

Scc

[stevec205gti]

A big bar's not going to help you if you've already mullered the bolt! As suggested, heat's good if you can apply it carefully enough, I've found plumbers blow torches very helpful in the past (just make sure you remember the bolt's hot when you go to pick it up when it first falls on the floor!!!). Impact drivers are also very good at undoing bolts.

Another thing worth remembering - just because a bolt's torqued up to one point doesn't mean that's how much force you'll be needing to undo it again! Brake bolts udergo numereous heat cycles during their use which normally results in them being a pain in the backside to remove.

[Nick Mann]

Can you undo the other pin and rotate the caliper? That might free the pin too. Had to do that on my VR4.

[Paul Beazer]

I've just checked the torque specs for a 2001 V6 from a hayes manual.

Pardon the hijack, but Haynes Manual??
I didnt know there was one for the UK spec, or did you look at the american one??
:inquisiti

[scc]

Pardon the hijack, but Haynes Manual??
I didnt know there was one for the UK spec, or did you look at the american one??
:inquisiti

It is an US spec, just for guidance - I checked with mitsu, and the torque settings are different (posted above).

Thanks for all the info. Its going to be a very long day I reckon to get the bolt off.....

scc

[stevec205gti]

If you've got new bolts then you can afford to sacrifce the old one - it's a bit of a nasty solution, but if you've rounded the bolt you can sometimes get away with driving the next size socket down on and use that. The may be seen as a bit of a bodge by some people but sometimes desperate times call for desperate measures. :D

[scc]

If you've got new bolts then you can afford to sacrifce the old one - it's a bit of a nasty solution, but if you've rounded the bolt you can sometimes get away with driving the next size socket down on and use that. The may be seen as a bit of a bodge by some people but sometimes desperate times call for desperate measures. :D

That is pure genius! cheers
scc

[wirdy]

There are also tools called 'extractors' or 'EEZI- OUT' that will remove a stud but they both require a hole being drilled down the centre of the offending item and then the tool has an anti-clockwise thread that screws into the hole, so the more you try to unscrew, the tighter it grips.

Must say though, one of my front caliper bolts was so tight that it sheared off in the caliper body - & that was a pain to get drilled out. see HERE (http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3426&highlight=caliper+bolt)

unfortunately in my case, heating did nothing to help, as the unthreaded (smooth) part of the bolt was the bit that had seized solid.

Nicks idea of using the caliper to rotate is interesting, but would only work if it was the right bolt that was tight, otherwise you may be trying to do the bolt up by rotating. The pads may prevent a great deal of rotation too.

Good luck, if you're determined, you'll crack it. :thumbsup:

[Kieran]

If you've got new bolts then you can afford to sacrifce the old one - it's a bit of a nasty solution, but if you've rounded the bolt you can sometimes get away with driving the next size socket down on and use that. The may be seen as a bit of a bodge by some people but sometimes desperate times call for desperate measures. :D

Yep, used this trick to great effect on my GLS when the locknut broke on one of the alloy wheels! :rolleyes4

[Pete M]

The other day I spotted an advert from Machine Mart for what they call a Grip Bolt set. These are sockets like inside out Ezy-Outs. They have spiral flutes that grip them tighter on the bolt head as you try and undo it. try here:
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/product.asp?p=040214678
At UKP 22.27 it's not cheap, but might work.

[Paul Beazer]

Halflords do similar things for removing loching wheelnuts, BUT these things will destroy any chance of reusing the bolt, so probably as a lest resort only, AFTER you have purchased a replacement bolt!

[Nick Mann]

Nicks idea of using the caliper to rotate is interesting, but would only work if it was the right bolt that was tight, otherwise you may be trying to do the bolt up by rotating. The pads may prevent a great deal of rotation too.

I have actually used that method on the wrong bolt on my current car. The caliper only rotated one or two degrees but it was enough to start the whole thing moving.

The bolt was still a mess once it was done, though, and is thankfully no longer on my car!!

[Bal]

sounds like this has happened to a lot of people, happened to me (friendly garage man sorted it for me).

[scc]

AW MAN!!!!!!!!!!

I am so stupid!!!!!!

I just realised that whilst I've been trying to undo the bolt, I infact was tightening it. Mustn't forget that the bolt is actually on the other side....DOH!!!!!!!!!!!!! and double DOH!!!!!!!!!!! /pan

scc

[Kieran]

AW MAN!!!!!!!!!!

I am so stupid!!!!!!

I just realised that whilst I've been trying to undo the bolt, I infact was tightening it. Mustn't forget that the bolt is actually on the other side....DOH!!!!!!!!!!!!! and double DOH!!!!!!!!!!! /pan

scc

:oops: /haz

Been there, done that........... :embarasse Where would we be without these little 'Learning Experiences' every now and again!! ;) /lol

[scc]

:oops: /haz

Been there, done that........... :embarasse Where would we be without these little 'Learning Experiences' every now and again!! ;) /lol

I think one day I may be able to see the funny side.....ah well here goes /lol .

Hope the over torque bolt will be ok for a while..../duh

scc

[wirdy]

AW MAN!!!!!!!!!!

I am so stupid!!!!!!

I just realised that whilst I've been trying to undo the bolt, I infact was tightening it. Mustn't forget that the bolt is actually on the other side....DOH!!!!!!!!!!!!! and double DOH!!!!!!!!!!! /pan

scc

no wonder it was tight!! /pan /pan

If you ever do a driveshaft nut- remember they've got anticlockwise threads on the offside too.