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mitzylongboy
01-02-2006, 01:59 PM
hi guys, i have got my oil light flickering on at tick-over. i need to do an oil change, i wonder if anyone can recommend a part number for a filter and where from, preferably not mitsubishi unless it is just as cheep from them. also what is the best oil and how much do i need? my haynes manual is useless!! the car is a 1997 galant V6-24 auto estate. it has 135,000 miles on it.
also is it o.k. to drain the oil while the car is jacked up? i don't have access to a pit anymore. i though it was better to drain the oil when the car was level?

:chugchug: :thumbsup:

WildCards
01-02-2006, 02:12 PM
Camskill (http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m22b0s1399p5544) do VR4 oil filters for £5. Don't know if there is any difference between the VR4 and the V6 filter, there shouldn't be though.

In terms of Oil, i'd go for fully synth and whatever your budget will take. Send amsoil a PM and he'll let you know what you need. Amsoil do filters aswell for that matter.

I-S
01-02-2006, 02:55 PM
I got the filter AND sump plug washer from mitsu dealer for £8.61 inc VAT. The filters that mitsubishi supply are made by purflux and they have an excellent reputation for quality apparently, so it's not worth £1 or so saving to buy something that might be dodgy.

5 litres of oil will be enough, 10w40 is best for UK temperatures. I've ordered Amsoil AMO. The oil sump plug is at the back of the sump, so in fact it may drain slightly better with the car jacked up a little at the front

mitzylongboy
01-02-2006, 05:16 PM
cool. cheers guys. i wasn't sure if these oils on the market that are recommended for high mileage cars are any different to "thicker" oils. i'm more than happy to pay that price from mitsubishi, i thought it would be a lot more. i was quoted £24.75 + vat for a passenger light fitting above the door! so i was preparing myself for the worst. i should be selling it this year but i had better keep it going a bit longer and maybe treat it to new oil. bless her!! i notice she runs very hot to me but the temp needle sits smack bang in the middle of the dial, and i have never heard the rad fans come on? i even check the coolant about half an hour later and it's fine? never known a car engine to seem so hot!! with this in mind, should i go for maybe a 10w50 or is it a 15w40? ( no idea!! LOL!! )

pezza
01-02-2006, 05:29 PM
Yup the mitsu filters are top quality and one of the very few genuine items that are priced very well against the other brands..

I must admit I can't remember how hot the V6 24 was under the bonnet.. but if you think they run hot.. I guess you haven't been toasted from the VR4 engine bay... :rolleyes4 I always used the recommended oil in mine (5/40 I think)

mitzylongboy
01-02-2006, 07:17 PM
Yup the mitsu filters are top quality and one of the very few genuine items that are priced very well against the other brands..

I must admit I can't remember how hot the V6 24 was under the bonnet.. but if you think they run hot.. I guess you haven't been toasted from the VR4 engine bay... :rolleyes4 I always used the recommended oil in mine (5/40 I think)


thats very thick isn't it? not a problem i suppose when you've got to warm the turbo's up properly.

I-S
01-02-2006, 08:23 PM
Yes, some of mitsu's part prices are absurd, but I think they realise that they'll never sell the filters at silly prices because that's one of the few parts where they do face competition.

Stick with 10w40. If you want something different, go to 5W40 or 0W40 for cold start performance.

When I first got my GLS it ran with the needle slap bang in the middle of the gauge. After one service when they changed the coolant it started to normally sit just below the middle (different coolant mix, better heat capacity I guess). Then after I changed the knackered old ATF to Amsoil synthetic ATF the needle now sits lower again (less heat generated in the transmission, less heat transferred via the ATF cooler to the radiator, lower engine temp). In fact, I can drive 3 miles to the top of a hill near my house (about 800 ft climb), then let off the accelerator and let the car roll down about 3 miles on the other side and on a cold day the temp needle will drop back down to only 1/4 above the bottom mark.

Opie Oils
01-02-2006, 11:49 PM
Unless the car is modded or used on track 5w-40 is a good grade for all year round use.

Cheers
Simon

amsoil
02-02-2006, 02:02 AM
cool. cheers guys. i wasn't sure if these oils on the market that are recommended for high mileage cars are any different to "thicker" oils. i'm more than happy to pay that price from mitsubishi, i thought it would be a lot more. i was quoted £24.75 + vat for a passenger light fitting above the door! so i was preparing myself for the worst. i should be selling it this year but i had better keep it going a bit longer and maybe treat it to new oil. bless her!! i notice she runs very hot to me but the temp needle sits smack bang in the middle of the dial, and i have never heard the rad fans come on? i even check the coolant about half an hour later and it's fine? never known a car engine to seem so hot!! with this in mind, should i go for maybe a 10w50 or is it a 15w40? ( no idea!! LOL!! )

The reason why your oil light is flickering is no doubt that whats left of the oil you have in there has been broken down and is now like water. You would be staggered at how quickly some well know brands break down (never mind cheap ones). stick to what the manufacturer recommends. It also sounds like you will need to flush out the cr*p that will be in your engine as a result of the oil degrading. Issacs oil will be with him today and I trust he will be reporting that his car will again be purring like a pussy cat. Give me a call if you are not sure. :thumbsup:
If your engine oils like this do check the auto box. The chaps on the forum will tell you how to do it properly rather than some of these dealers who only change half the ATF.

I-S
03-02-2006, 12:37 AM
It did indeed arrive today, and my neighbours signed for it all ok. So, I have a pile of stuff obtained last saturday and today:

1 Mitsubishi MZ690070 oil filter (note my car is a GLS. I do not know if this is the right filter for other galants)
1 Sump plug crush washer
4.55l Flushing Oil
5l Amsoil AMO 10w40
1 pair filter pliers
1 oil drain can

Along with a few other tools I have handy, I'm sure that this should do the job. I shall report on saturday (Kieran - make sure your phone is on! :D)

I-S
04-02-2006, 02:11 PM
:thumbsup:

amsoil
04-02-2006, 04:20 PM
I take it thats a thumbs up Isaac :happy:

Kieran
04-02-2006, 04:21 PM
:thumbsup:

All sorted then Isaac?

I-S
04-02-2006, 05:58 PM
No problems, change all done without anything exploding. Old oil was in a SHOCKING state (could have mixed it with some gravel and made a road), and the flushing oil came out looking pretty unpleasant. See how it goes from here on I guess.

amsoil
04-02-2006, 06:08 PM
Dont often suggest this but is it worth dropping the sump and just changing the big end bearings in situ? Save the oil and just put it back afterwards, cheap insurance.

psbarham
04-02-2006, 06:39 PM
Don't often suggest this but is it worth dropping the sump and just changing the big end bearings in situ? Save the oil and just put it back afterwards, cheap insurance.
thats the plan for the next big service on mine , its coming up to the 140,000 mile mark now , so to play it safe a new set of big ends and mains will be going in , and before you ask Don i will be filling it up with some of your miracle oil :thumbsup:

The Vee
04-02-2006, 06:56 PM
thats the plan for the next big service on mine , its coming up to the 140,000 mile mark now , so to play it safe a new set of big ends and mains will be going in , and before you ask Don i will be filling it up with some of your miracle oil :thumbsup:

Did this on one of mine (not galant) many yonks ago and it made a big difference. As you know I was tempted with this "untried" 6A13, but it did seem pretty good inside. Always a later option. The only drawback to doing this, is that it could possibly cause a little piston slap at idle, but that's more of an irritance than a problem.

amsoil
04-02-2006, 07:08 PM
thats the plan for the next big service on mine , its coming up to the 140,000 mile mark now , so to play it safe a new set of big ends and mains will be going in , and before you ask Don i will be filling it up with some of your miracle oil :thumbsup:

No miracles it can't put white metal back on bearings :inquisiti but as the independant test prove, and in the USA you will get your ass sued if they are not only true but verifiable, it produces less wear and lasts longer than other oils. enough of the sales bit.

but talking of legal cases, below are links about what is happening in the States with oil additives etc, hope the links work. None of whats below is from the Amsoil web site I just found it on the net ................

"If AMSOIL didn’t work as stated, you would see law suits from the FTC for false advertising and AMSOIL would be fined some big hefty fines for making such claims and pretty much go out of business.

Dont believe me Visit the FTCs web site right now and search on these WELL-KNOWN companies that you’ve probably heard of or used yourself or may be using right now over the last several years and see the kinds of trouble you can get into:


http://www.ftc.gov/opa/2001/02/zmax1.htm
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1996/07/slick.htm
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/09/shellcastrol.htm
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1995/12/stp.htm
http://www.ftc.gov/os/2000/01/shellcmp.htm
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/05/duralub2.htm
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/09/prolong.htm
http://search.ftc.gov/query.htmlqt=mobil&col=hsr&col=news&col=full
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/04/motorup5.htm
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1996/09/exxon1.htm
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1996/02/amoco.htm
http://www.ftc.gov/opa/1997/10/valve.htm
Now search on Federal Trade Commission’s web site for AMSOIL and see what comes up: http://search.ftc.gov/query.htmlqt=Amsoil&col=hsr&col=news&col=full

Wow... funny how there is not ONE single FTC charge for deceptive or misleading advertising for AMSOIL.

See... if you print a claim on the back of a bottle or package of a product, IT BETTER PERFORM AS DESCRIBED or the whole world will know you are a deceiving the public and class action law suits will clearly be found on the Internet." /Hmmm

psbarham
04-02-2006, 07:17 PM
it produces less wear and lasts longer than other oils.

thats all i want , she only has to last a few more years now (i've just seen the torque curve for the new mazda mps , you VR4 boys are in for a shock , just gotta save up now :happy: ) and if i can make the next couple of years as smooth for it as possible then i will :thumbsup: