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View Full Version : Fitted my D2 coilovers, info and pics



Louis
05-02-2006, 11:37 PM
Just a quick bit of info on the D2 coil over set up for the Legnum VR4.

The shocks are totally adjustable, you can adjust the pre load on the spring separately from the ride height adjustment ( so you can have a normal or a preloaded spring at any ride height) and the damping adjustment is a smooth rotation, done at the top of the strut, 6 full revolutions from soft to hard, ( there are 36 positions marked off, but basically 6 full revolutions)

Fitting is very simple, at the front, 3 bolts at the top of the strut (14mm), and one bolt at the bottom ( 17mm), although you will need to loosen the rollbar link on the drivers side to access the 17mm At The bottom on that side. (roll bar link is 14mm).

At the rear there are 2 (14mm) at the top and 1 (17mm) at the bottom.

(no spring compressors just spanners and sockets).

I will attach some pics. Below are my initial settings.

The settings below were the same on all 4 corners.

I fitted the suspension over a week ago and the initial settings I had were, spring preload about 2cm from standard, this means basically with the spring collar adjuster hand tight against the base of the spring I then tightened the collar up 2cm to squash the spring (less travel).

I adjusted the ride height adjustment collar so that I had 2cm clearance between the tyre and the arch.

I adjusted the rotational damping force adjuster to 4 out of a max of 6 revolutions.

Results.
Very stable (flat no roll) on corners on smooth roads and roundabouts, but quite harsh on bumpy roads, I was out of my seat a couple of times on a bad road.
Speed bumps were quite jarring and when taken at speed I got a bit of rub on the front wheel arches,
( tyre to arch contact ).

The idea of this set up was to have the car low with not much bounce and with the dampers quite hard so that the 2cm clearance would not move much and not contact the bodywork (wheel arches).

I also noticed that when pushing it hard around roundabouts if I did hit a bump it was not absorbed, and the car would skip, (loose contact with the tarmac)

I changed the settings yesterday, and they are now.

Spring preload – a couple of turns from hand tight, (so no preload as such)
Ride height – 4cm clearance between tyre and wheel arch
Damping – 1 turn out of a max of 6

The new settings are much more useable, springs are not as harsh, I did the same tests as before, speedbumps at speed etc, with no arch to wheel contact, and the damping is softer but similar to factory set up, also no skipping on bumpy corners.

I think that I will stiffen up the dampers a bit more to see the results.

Compared to the factory set up the springs are a bit stiffer but not too harsh with no preload, and the damping adjustment can be from (I would say) softer than factory to very stiff, a good range of adjustment. Ride height is adjustable from the same as the factory ride height to as low as you are able to go. I was limited on drop height as my wheels and tyres are as wide as I could go. So as I lower the car the tyres actually come into contact with the wheelarches.

I have attached some pics so that you can see them in situ, ( I washed them prior to adjustment as they were quite dirty). One more tip, when you have adjusted the settings and tightened the lock collars etc, spray some grease on the threaded body of the strut.

photos are from phone so sorry for quality

AllBeItMine
06-02-2006, 01:29 AM
need to be carefull if doing this yourself, rollbar is connected via a ball joint and sometimes you will need to use an air tool to do this back up again. there is no way to secure it from both sides when you are doing it up.


otherwise. looks brilliant. i have head good things about that suspension. will be interesting to see how you find it.

can sometimes be a good idea to wrap the tread on the struts with tape so that road where/stone chips/hardened crud doesn't damage them making them hard to change.

Kieran
06-02-2006, 01:33 AM
need to be carefull if doing this yourself, rollbar is connected via a ball joint and sometimes you will need to use an air tool to do this back up again. there is no way to secure it from both sides when you are doing it up

I presume you're on about the drop-links ABIM? When I did the V6's suspension, You fitted the droplink balljoint thread back through the shock absorber carrier, and there were two machined sides on the top of the thread (right near the rubber balljoint boot), that allowed you to hold the joint steady in situ from the rear whilst you torqued up the nut.

Or are you on about something else?

Louis
06-02-2006, 10:40 AM
need to be carefull if doing this yourself, rollbar is connected via a ball joint and sometimes you will need to use an air tool to do this back up again. there is no way to secure it from both sides when you are doing it up.


otherwise. looks brilliant. i have head good things about that suspension. will be interesting to see how you find it.

can sometimes be a good idea to wrap the tread on the struts with tape so that road where/stone chips/hardened crud doesn't damage them making them hard to change.

HI,
No air tools required, maybe I just described it wrong, the drop[ link to the roll bar has a nut facing you. The nut goes onto the balljoint, (the balljoint is threaded) the threaded stem of the balljoint passes through the hole on the hub carrier, BUT!, there is a 14mm hex on the base of threaded stem of the balljoint. So you use a 14mm spanner to hold the nut shaped part of the balljoint and a 14mm socket to undo the nut. really simple, basically tools required, (once wheel is removed are 14mm spanner, 14mm socket and ratchet and 17mm socket. Thats it, Honestly it is really that simple.

One other thing, you do not use an adjustable pillow ball top mout as it will do nothing to our suspension, ( a pillow ball top mount would replace the rubber bush at the top and would give more feel, response) as the pillow ball adjustment is really only of use on macpherson strut type applications where the hub is attached to the bottom of the strut.
Due to our 4 link set up the angle of the strut does nothing to the geometry of the suspension.
as you raise or lower the car the double wish bone set up allows the wheel to stay vertical, parallel, (if you imagine a square, then imagine pushing one side up the way with all corners still attached, the sides will stay parallel as the arms! are the same length, the set up only needs adjusted if you do anything to the upper or lower arms).
Yoou acn take the strut out and put it back in place with the 3 bolts at the top and the 1 bolt at the base, and this will not affect the upper and lower arm set up, lowering the ride height with the coil over will not affect the vertical angle of the wheel.
I have lowered other cars and as you lower the height the wheels start to go squat, (the top of the wheel tilts in as you go lower) this does not happen with the upper and lower arm type suspension set up.

If you haven't had the upper or lower arms off, then using coil overs to raise or lower our cars won't affect the geometry.

Marcel
06-02-2006, 03:23 PM
What was the price for that setup. Without work.

Marcel

Louis
06-02-2006, 03:55 PM
Hi there I got mine from Impulse Performance they had an offer on at the time, I got them at 10% discounted price (RRP price being £607.50) - 10% = £546.75 plus vat = £641.55.
I also paid £98 for express delivery from Japan to Glasgow, which took 4 days, as I neede them pretty quick due to a dodgey shock absorber.
There was a group buy discussion happening where if 5 sets were bought (including mine) there would be a 15% club discount.
Chack also with Mr Voodoo as he can also get them.

Louis
10-02-2006, 12:19 AM
I have changed the damper setting to 3 out of six, and thas has stiffend things up a bit more, seems to be the more you get used to the set up the more you want to tweak, but I would recommend these to anyone looking for a coilover set up, you get a lot of adjustability for the price and they are very good quality.

bernmc
06-03-2006, 12:27 AM
:2thumbsup Nice write up, Louis.:2thumbsup

pezza
06-03-2006, 11:59 AM
:2thumbsup Nice write up, Louis.:2thumbsup


Hmmmm yup makes me want to but and fit them .. tempted too are ya? ;)

WireD
21-03-2006, 10:28 AM
How did the D2s work out for ya?

Louis
26-08-2006, 12:37 AM
Hi,
Still very pleased with the D2 set up and would recommend them to anyone, ( new hobby is now overtaking motorbikes on big roundabouts, he he)

zentac
28-08-2006, 09:18 PM
I have the same on the FTO and they are superb.

Eagleton
15-04-2007, 07:53 PM
Hi

I´m very interested in the D2 coilovers, but will they fit a Galant VR4 also? From what I can see, there should be no problem right?

How about those springrates on coilovers, does that matter if it´s to a Legnum or a Galant?

Gly
15-04-2007, 08:22 PM
yes they are fine,
but the legnums and galants have diffent spring rates on the rear,

not much of an issue thou,

we have a few people using legnum shocks in galants with no probs

Louis
15-04-2007, 08:45 PM
Hi, email Kenny or Danny, to impulse@d2racingsport.co.uk they can supply any spring rates you want, they are very good.
Also dealers in Germany and Holland, see this link for info and dealers,

http://www.d2racingsport.co.uk/Pages/dealers.asp

I definitely recommend these, (I have no connection with the company, I just think these are a very good product, cheers Louis

Eagleton
15-04-2007, 09:28 PM
Thanks guys!

I dont know much about spring rates etc. I think I read something about this in another thread for the other coilovers from K-sport. What springrate do you guys recomend?

(I´m a total noob on the VR4´s....does it show?):rolleyes3

wnwnwnw
16-04-2007, 07:12 AM
Same as mine!!
Nice one.