Daiyama Suspension

[Rally205]

Has anyone had any dealings with Daiyama coilovers? I have been looking at some for my car. They look like a really well made package and you can even specify your own spring rates.

I have been quoted about £500 a set for a group buy or £550 for a one off. This is for the FFA-G type kit. Fully adjustable etc, etc, etc

Anyone interested?

Marcus

[Mac.]

We're the official dealers for Daiyama in New Zealand. They are very, very good quality items, and deserve to be priced higher (if that's an option!). They make all their own components, which is a major advantage over the likes of brands like K-Sport, D2 and so on - who simply buy and rebrand the coilovers en-masse from the manufacturers. The advantage is that when / if a coilover "explodes", rebranded retailers lack the support, or parts to offer comprehensive warranties. Most of the time you have to get the rebuilt locally, or swap in other brands parts to suit. With Daiyamas you can buy the components that went fut (or have them sent to you under warranty, mius shipping costs in some instances) or sent them back to be rebuilt.

Obviously being in the UK it's a small hurdle shipping-costs wise to do that!

As for the unit themselves - they're quite light - around 15-20% lighter than the K-Sport equivelents we've had through here. The K-Sports were 25kg, the Daiyamas were between 19 and 21 kg. Their design is excellent, very robust. We've had these on Evolutions, various Toyotas and Hondas - all of which have been tracked or 1/4-miled - without problems. Feedback has always been excellent, and you can also buy surplus spring sets to suit various applications. Daiyama also give you the option to choose the default springs shipped with the coilovers - anywhere between 2kg to 20kg.

As with any purchase I'd urge you to buy from authorised dealers, who can also offer a warranty with such parts.

Hope this helps! Good luck!

[Rally205]

Thanks for the info Mac. I think I will get some as soon as I have the money and try it out. Cool.

[Mac.]

Not a problem =] Good luck!

[pezza]

Hi Marcus,

were you in conatct with a UK supplier for these units? What was the delivery time for these....BTW? :thinking:

[Rally205]

Hello Derek,

Yeah. I contacted the UK supplier in Glasgow. He reckoned that delivery would be about 4-6 weeks.

[caishanvr4]

Any pictures to see what they look like :inquisiti

[pezza]

I Just went HERE (http://www.daiyama.com/English/ffag.htm)

How big is your wish list now then?

[caishanvr4]

Originally posted by Pezza

How big is your wish list now then?

PLS :bigcry:

DONT GO THERE !!!

[Mac.]

The delivery time should be 1-2 weeks from Daiyama as the only shipping option for such items is EMS express air mail. It'll cost about US$150 to ship per item.

If you have any issues, we could sell you some from New Zealand. We've got some on special for NZ$875 and NZ$1050 (IIRC) for height / height+damper adjustable IIE / IIE-G items. I'd just need to work out shipping.

That's about GBP320.

I'd not want to tread on any dealers toes there, so if there's an OFFICIAL dealer in place, I'll happily withdraw my offer.

We accept bank transfers for international orders, and if you want our company details for security, just ask!

[pezza]

Oh that is a nice price /yes Am sure there will be interest in these in the UK esp at that price!!

[Mac.]

=]

I could even ship them to my sister, or her husband who live in Exeter as "presents" to save you some VAT.

[Rally205]

Thanks for that Mac. So that is about £480 inc shipping for the fully adjustable units. Do you know what the difference is between the IIE-G and the FFA-G units? I looked on Daiyamas website and there seems to be no difference at all.

[Mac.]

Mostly the differences between the G options are different upper mounts / gas/oil tube (as opposed to just oil) and dust covers. It can be safe to assume that you will get better performance from the higher priced items because of the gas/oil shocks and stronger tubes (that's not saying the oil shocks are weak - with nitrogen gas mixes there's more performance gains and therefore the shocks need to be of a stronger construction to cope).

Shipping mught be a little more expensive looking at the NZ Post web site. About GBP90 - GBP100 - and you can only post 20kg items. So I've asked Daiyama for a list of options that weigh less than 20kg.

[caishanvr4]

MAC

If its under 400 quid delivered to exeter as a present put me down for one right now :evilgrin:
Is this coilover ok to fit my EC5A:inquisiti

[Mac.]

I beleive it's EC5W (is that right?) only.

Here's a photo of the IIE (height adj. only) which weigh 19kgs (which means it's possible to ship to the UK):

http://www.fortyone.co.nz/media/Daiyama/iie-galant.jpg

[Mac.]

We've asked Daiyama if they'll drop-ship direct to the UK for us, therefore saving a bit of shipping, which means the price could come down. I'll await a reply from Daiyama and then pass on what I get. I'll work out a package price for the lot, along with options that can be shipped to the UK =]

[Mac.]

OK, here's the price list for ya'all, including shipping to the UK. Remember to consider clearance fees and any VAT. Bank fees in NZ are an extra NZ$25 (GBP10)

Galant EC-5W: IIE - GBP365
Galant EC-5W: IIE-G - GBP390
Galant EC-5W: BBI - GBP435
Galant EC-5W: FFA - GBP400
Galant EC-5W: FFA-G - GBP440

(sorry, shipping was US$60 more than I had budgeted for!)

IIE / IIE-G are their street applications, FFA /FFA-G are their street / track applications, and the BBI are their street / endurance applications.

If anyone is keen, mail us - mac@fortyone.co.nz

Ta!

[Physician]

You've spent a lot of time getting all this info for us Mac. ....... thanks for your efforts.

I'd be interested but I have the EC5A (saloon) same as Caish.

[Mac.]

No problem. I don't believe they make options for that chassis, I'll ask. Perhaps the coilovers will fit if the OEM units are the same across the different chassis?

[SGHOM]

Excellent info Mac. :2thumbsup

how long for delivery on the FFA-G set up ?? I need them before RT3 [ april 13th !! ]

[RED]

EC5W and EC5A use the same suspension so these units will fit either the saloon or the estate. The only options that you will need to consider are spring rate and wether or not you want adjustable damping.

Marcus

[Physician]

EC5W and EC5A use the same suspension so these units will fit either the saloon or the estate. The only options that you will need to consider are spring rate and wether or not you want adjustable damping.

Marcus

Interesting Marcus .......... if you are going to Donington tomorrow I'd like to have a chat about this ...... being non-technical! :thinking:

[Rally205]

Sorry Richard,

I am not going tomorrow. I can't afford it but either phone me or pop in to work for a cuppa and a chat.

Marcus

[Mac.]

Delivery from Daiyama to NZ is usually 5-7 days, I'd expect the delivery to the UK to take 10-14 days (allowing for the greater distance, and the larger volume of customs traffic).


EC5W and EC5A use the same suspension so these units will fit either the saloon or the estate. The only options that you will need to consider are spring rate and wether or not you want adjustable damping.

Marcus


Thanks Red, excellent to know!

[Physician]

Sorry Richard,

I am not going tomorrow. I can't afford it but either phone me or pop in to work for a cuppa and a chat.

Marcus

Thanks ..... will do :2thumbsup

[caishanvr4]

I would like a set of these coilovers like asap, are you aving a set too physician :2thumbsup did you find out any info on what spring rates would be best for our cars from Marcus.

[Rally205]

What do you want from the suspension. Do you want it just for adjustable ride height and keep the ride quality or do you want a harder setup for track use and less comfort?

[Mac.]

Yep that's the trade-off =] You can order extra sets of springs with the coilovers aside from the factory defaults. These can be anywhere from 2kg to 20kg. I'll get a price delivered. If you get a soft sset of springs, and wind down the damper, you'll have some "softer" road suspension for everyday travel.

[SGHOM]

The only 'everyday travel' mine will do, is to and from the track !! :2thumbsup /Steeringw /Steeringw

[caishanvr4]

I just want a spring rate that makes my car handle 20x better on the road and the occasional track day /Steeringw
But can also handle potholes and speed ramps without ripping my front spoiler off

[Mac.]

The default springs on the IIE-G set are 12kgF and 6kgR. These can be changed.

Extra springs (set of 4) cost EURO 260 delivered to the UK. (yep, shipping is a killer)

[valmes]

EC5W and EC5A use the same suspension so these units will fit either the saloon or the estate. The only options that you will need to consider are spring rate and wether or not you want adjustable damping.
Marcus

I don't think they are the same... front - yes, but after I tried Ralliart shocks&springs made for EC5A Galant on a EC5W Legnum it was clear there are differences in the rear suspension. Had to make spacers to make them fit right.

[pezza]

Yup the Rears on the estate were different to the saloon when I ordered springs and shocks for my old V6..

[Rally205]

I have double checked on CAPS and the shocks are the same between EC5A and EC5W. I have also swapped shocks between my Legnum and Saloon and they definitely fit. I think the problems that you had Valmes may be because they are Ralliart shocks or no offense but you fitted them incorrectly. It may also have something to do with self levelling suspension but I would have thought that it was built into the damper valving and not a physical difference in the damper body.

CaishanVr4 there is no such setup I am afraid/pan. I would go for 2 sets of springs. The standard springs that come with the set are extremely hard. I think front 5kg/mm and rear 3kg/mm is a much better compromise. I would look at a combined main/tender coil setup to give a progressive ride. Do you know what the spring lengths are Mac?


Springs are cheap enough at about £25ea so there is scope to find a good setup.

[Kieran]

I have a set of standard VR-4 springs (not fitted to the car). I am willing to send these to someone like tein or whoever if they can test them and find out what the standard spring rate is - I think it's a bit haphazard gestimating the spring rates to go with when we don't know what the standard ones are like?

[valmes]

I just told you what I know... if it works for you... great!

[Rally205]

I have checked again. The part numbers are as follows:

EC5A Rear

Shock MR272661
Spring MR272651
Top Mount MR103156

EC5W Rear

Shock MR272661
Spring MR272651
Top Mount MR103156

If you look on Teins website the part numbers of kits are the same for Legnum and Galant. How more conclusive can it be?:inquisiti

[Kieran]

Shame it doesn't disclose the standard spring rates.:thinking:

[pezza]

I know this is slightly OT but Are the OE non VR4 rear shocks/springs the same on saloons and estates too Marcus?

I had no such luck on my previous car and I did not have self level rears..( I had KYBs and PI springs)

[Rally205]

Shame it doesn't disclose the standard spring rates.:thinking:


Kieran,

The standard rates are difficult to measure due to them being non linear. The standard rates as far as I can workout are front 3-4kg and rear 1.5-2.5kg.

I am going to be ordering mine with 5kg front and 3kg rear. This should be slightly firmer but not too harsh. I will try and calculate the wheel frequency in order to determine the best setup but I reckon your safe with that.

[pezza]

Am up for stiffening up the ride quality just a little and stability round corners but don't want to car leaving the ground or skipping over bumps...

[Rally205]

Pezza I have checked the part numbers for non VR4 saloon and estate and they are the same too.

[Kieran]

Kieran,

The standard rates are difficult to measure due to them being non linear. The standard rates as far as I can workout are front 3-4kg and rear 1.5-2.5kg.

I am going to be ordering mine with 5kg front and 3kg rear. This should be slightly firmer but not too harsh. I will try and calculate the wheel frequency in order to determine the best setup but I reckon your safe with that.

Okay, thanks Marcus. Good to have an idea. Just out of interest, how did you measure the spring rate?

Yeah, forgot the stock items were wound dual-rate... Doesn't seem very progressive though, and I still feel it's a bit crashy over bumps. Mind you, my shocks are shot, so I can't say with any degree of conviction.

Still liking the look of some EDFC-equipped Tein Super Wagons, but need to save some serious pennies for that!/help

Please report on how comfortable you find the car. Mind you, since Ariadne's been reduced to a weekend car, this is not quite as important.:thinking2

[pezza]

Pezza I have checked the part numbers for non VR4 saloon and estate and they are the same too.

Cool... so I guess aftermarket products which have specified different models/part numbers for saloons and estate must be different for rates or for weight etc..?? :thinking:

Thanks, thats good to know.. /yes

When are you hoping to get hold of these? Wil be interesting to compare quality and ride to the B12 you have on the saloon!

[SGHOM]

What do you want from the suspension. Do you want it just for adjustable ride height and keep the ride quality or do you want a harder setup for track use and less comfort?

for me Marcus, I'd want the slightly firmer springs. what would you reccomend ??
comfort comes second to me, trackdays 1st..... but I dont want, as Del said, the car hopping all over the place on uneven roads !! /help

[Rally205]

I would go for 7kg front and 5kg rear for pure track use and very light road use.

[valmes]

I have checked again. The part numbers are as follows:

EC5A Rear

Shock MR272661
Spring MR272651
Top Mount MR103156

EC5W Rear

Shock MR272661
Spring MR272651
Top Mount MR103156

If you look on Teins website the part numbers of kits are the same for Legnum and Galant. How more conclusive can it be?:inquisiti

Look... here's funny thing (from CAPS...):

Shock absorber, FR SUSP EC5A:
MR272661
MR455677

Shock absorber, FR SUSP EC5W:
MR235594
MR235595
MR272661
MR455677

I knew front was the same, but I never thought shocks could be the same for front and rear... :inquisiti :5shots:

Now I don't have access to CAPS until Monday so I won't be able to look up all the part numbers for rear shocks and springs (those part numbers for front susp. were taken before for different reasons... but came in handy), but I would never say something I didn't come to by experience... just wanted to warn that there could be problems fitting EC5A aftermarket kit to the EC5W... as I mentioned before - that's what happened to me when I spent money on something "that works for sure"... BTW nobody warned me about this at the time... Again - that's just me... maybe you'll have better luck.

[valmes]

My be it was just springs that didn't match... I think Galants must be lighter in the rear... so the spring rate could be different, hence the ride height.

[Mac.]

I would go for 7kg front and 5kg rear for pure track use and very light road use.


Wow did I miss a few replies =] This is some good advice above, you don't want to de-spring to an extent that the shocks taking much of the load - especially for track days. Any shock has a life-span, and overloading it will place pressure on this life-span.

For those that have expressed interest, I'm sorry for not sending the bank information today. We were accepted as a dealer for another brand today so we've been running around like headless chickens sorting that out - amongst normal business thinga-ma-jigs..

[Rally205]

My be it was just springs that didn't match... I think Galants must be lighter in the rear... so the spring rate could be different, hence the ride height.

I think you are right Valmes. The Legnum probably has a stiffer rear spring in standard form. You also spotted my mistake. I did give the numbers for front suspension. However the rear shocks are EC5W MR272702/MR272701 and the EC5A is MR272701.

Mac. If I specified a certain spring rate for my dampers would the factory not valve the dampers to suit? If not then why say that you can specify your own spring rates? As you quite rightly say overworking a damper will shorten it's life and possibly mine aswell!!!

I think TEIN are extremely reputable suspension experts and they fit their Wagon dampers with 5kg front and 3 kg rear on both the Legnum and Galant.

However I will get my Leggy up on the ramp and measure the suspension to calculate the ideal spring rate range.

[Kieran]

However I will get my Leggy up on the ramp and measure the suspension to calculate the ideal spring rate range.

Oh Goody - let us know how you get on - and more interestingly, how do you measure spring rates/ranges?:inquisiti

[Rally205]

Oh Goody - let us know how you get on - and more interestingly, how do you measure spring rates/ranges?:inquisiti

You can measure the rate of a particular spring with a very expensive bit of equipment. All it basically is is a bottle jack to compress the spring one inch and a load cell or scale to measure how much weight is needed to compress the spring one inch. That then gives you the spring rate in lbs/in.

Working out what is right for your car is much less accurate. By working out the force applied to the spring by your suspension and the expected wheel frequency along with sprung weight/unsprung weight etc you can get a good idea of a suitable spring rate. I can't remember all the formulae off the top of my head but I have it all in a book at home.......

Is there a bored ****less smiley?

[SGHOM]

I will bow to you're better judgement regarding spring rates Marcus !! /help
I presume they are for you're car ?? :thinking:

[Mac.]

Nope Daiyama won't revalve them shocks to suit. It's only for flexibility that you *can* buy other springs with your shocks. Many, many manufacturers do not offer extra springs as an option, so it's simply a perk with Daiyama. I'd personally recommend sticking with factory options - any aftermarket coilover will be significantly more rigid than stock units regardless of the spring rates.

[Rally205]

Nope Daiyama won't revalve them shocks to suit. It's only for flexibility that you *can* buy other springs with your shocks. Many, many manufacturers do not offer extra springs as an option, so it's simply a perk with Daiyama. I'd personally recommend sticking with factory options - any aftermarket coilover will be significantly more rigid than stock units regardless of the spring rates.


Mac. What are the spring lengths? 300mm?

[Mac.]

That I will confirm for you. The Toyota and Honda kits here, as best as I can measue, are around 310-330mm.

[Mac.]

Daiyama have replied: 200-220mm. Not very long indeed. I've asked if this is compressed, partially compressed or uncompressed.

[Rally205]

Thanks Mac. A shorter spring with a higher rate makes more sense. Can you also find out the height adjustment range for me ie how much lower or higher than standard can you adjust it?

Thanks again
Marcus

p.s. Is it possible to get Daiyama to email a photo of the dampers for the EC5W?

[Mac.]

I'll get a photo (of all the sets I can) - the range is between 1-4" I believe (25mm-130mm or there abouts)

[Rally205]

Well I took the Leggy into work yesterday and crawled underneath to measure the suspension. Also weighed a spare disc, caliper, set of pads and one of my wheels. Thanks to Derek I now also have the weight of the hub carrier. A bit of guess work for the rest of the unsprung weight and the gross corner weight and I was able to calculate that the ideal spring rate for track use is 573lbs/in or 10.23kg/mm for the front. The maximum for road use is 429lbs/in or 7.6kg/mm so my guess wasn't far out.

Tein seem to have got it right. They sell the Super Wagon dampers with 5kg front and 3kg rear which would give reasonable road ride quality. I think that 12kg front and 6kg rear is way out

Most manufacturers dampers will tolerate +/- 2kg coil rate so I can't see being able to get the Daiyama setup to work satisfactorily unless they have misquoted the coil rates?

I also phoned Colt Cars on Friday and asked them to find out the standard coil rates for me. I will let you all know if they manage to get them and I will also ask about the MMCS Kieran:2thumbsup

[Mac.]

Nope Daiyama aren't wrong, and most people fail to consider diminishing rates or return. For example, if you want to "support" a 1000kg steel ball 1 meter up in the air, will 1 sturdy aluminum tri-pod be enough? How about 10 of them? How about 100? If 5 do the job, then why would you need 10? or 50? or 100?

The point is, you reach a level with the suspension where going any higher becomes pointless because it's unnecessary.

If there's 800kg over the front axle, and 400kg over the rear then a 6:3 split is suffice.

[Kieran]

:2thumbsup
I also phoned Colt Cars on Friday and asked them to find out the standard coil rates for me. I will let you all know if they manage to get them and I will also ask about the MMCS Kieran:2thumbsup

Brilliant work Marcus - Thanks!

[Rally205]

You are absolutely correct Mac. Your argument basically says that going any heavier than need be on the coil rates is overkill or am I reading it wrong?

All I did was take the facts and insert them into an equation to find the ideal coil rate. "Ye cannae change the laws of physics, Captain" This gives a starting point which may need a certain amount of fine tuning of the coil rates to get it perfect.

It goes like this. Over the years suspension designers have come up with a common denominator that any suspension setup can be compared to. This is the Natural Frequency at the wheel and it is measured in cycles per minute (CPM ). Further experience has shown that cars fall into certain categorys. The ideal frequency for a comfortable road car is 60-80, a sportier car is 80-100, Non-ground-effect racers is 100-125.

Below 50 the suspension travel will be so great that the car risks bottoming out and above 150 the ride will be so harsh that your teeth will be rattling.

So assuming a maximum for the VR4 of 115 cpm you can work out the coil rate.
You need to know certain data:-

Wheel Frequency(F) Assume 115

Sprung Weight(SW) This is the gross corner weight minus the unpsrung corner weight. As far as I can measure this is 1029.56lbs

Suspension Leverage squared(SL2)
This is 1.483524. It is the length of the bottom wishbone divided by the length from the inboard end to the shock mount squared.

Wheel Rate(WR) This is worked out as WR=F/187.8 squared x SW
I work this out to be 386.054lbs/in.

Coil Rate(CR) This what we want to know. CR=WR x SL2

So CR= 386.054 x 1.483524

= 573lbs/in.

If you assume a maximum wheel frequency of 100 then it works out to 429lbs/in. To convert to Kg/mm just multiply by 0.0178579673.

There was some guess work at the front corner weight but I will get down to the weighbridge and check it but I am not going to be too far out.

[Mac.]

Yep science aside, logic takes over. Why would you need a 10,000kg retaining wall to hold back a dam when 5,000 is more than enough? Why would you need a tripod that can hold a 20kg camera when your camera only weighs 1kg?

More often than not, people don't need 18kgF/16kgR because even at half that (9kg/8kg) there may still be NO play on the coilovers. The numbers are nice, but people usually get tied up in the "firmer is better" mantra (not pointing the finger here, just saying it as it is).

There comes a point in any given part where the performance return diminishes, and any further benefits become negligable.

[Kieran]

Mac - I don't understand your argument? You've just said the same as Marcus? And how can logic take over if science has been pushed aside?!:inquisiti

His point, as I read it, is that a default 12kg spring rate (which you said was the case on the Daiyama coilovers) on the fronts is way too stiff for the VR-4, and that 7.6 is probably more like the maximum? :thinking:


Interestingly, I've just done the same calculation for a 80CPM car, which according to Marcus's figures is the cross between comfort and sporty. The spring rate works out at 4.9Kg/mm. Tein's Super Wagon Dampers are factory rated at 5Kg/mm.

[Mac.]

Yes, I agree with Marcus. My example could of perhaps been more extreme. There's obviously no need to 100kg front spring rates is there - you'd get 0 movement out of them. What about 50? 20? 10? There comes a point when anything higher than a particular spring rate warrants no further gain - that's all I am saying. So when you see brands offering 18kgF/17kgR as default, you have to question what you need all that for.

[Rally205]

Thanks for all your input Mac:2thumbsup . The info was invaluable but personally I don't think that the Daiyama suspension is right for my car and I will continue the hunt for something that is right for my needs. However I am sure that some people may find it right for them.

Marcus

[Mac.]

Sure thing =]

[SGHOM]

You are absolutely correct Mac. Your argument basically says that going any heavier than need be on the coil rates is overkill or am I reading it wrong?

All I did was take the facts and insert them into an equation to find the ideal coil rate. "Ye cannae change the laws of physics, Captain" This gives a starting point which may need a certain amount of fine tuning of the coil rates to get it perfect.

It goes like this. Over the years suspension designers have come up with a common denominator that any suspension setup can be compared to. This is the Natural Frequency at the wheel and it is measured in cycles per minute (CPM ). Further experience has shown that cars fall into certain categorys. The ideal frequency for a comfortable road car is 60-80, a sportier car is 80-100, Non-ground-effect racers is 100-125.

Below 50 the suspension travel will be so great that the car risks bottoming out and above 150 the ride will be so harsh that your teeth will be rattling.

So assuming a maximum for the VR4 of 115 cpm you can work out the coil rate.
You need to know certain data:-

Wheel Frequency(F) Assume 115

Sprung Weight(SW) This is the gross corner weight minus the unpsrung corner weight. As far as I can measure this is 1029.56lbs

Suspension Leverage squared(SL2)
This is 1.483524. It is the length of the bottom wishbone divided by the length from the inboard end to the shock mount squared.

Wheel Rate(WR) This is worked out as WR=F/187.8 squared x SW
I work this out to be 386.054lbs/in.

Coil Rate(CR) This what we want to know. CR=WR x SL2

So CR= 386.054 x 1.483524

= 573lbs/in.

If you assume a maximum wheel frequency of 100 then it works out to 429lbs/in. To convert to Kg/mm just multiply by 0.0178579673.

There was some guess work at the front corner weight but I will get down to the weighbridge and check it but I am not going to be too far out.


SETTING CORNERWEIGHTS:
This step is optional, but provides the optimum handling for the car by making sure all 4 tires are doing equal share of the work. Weigh the car at all 4 corners after jettisoning unnecessary items for racing, disconnect the sway bar end links, and with you sitting in the car.
1.Add all weights together to find the total weight of the car.
2.Figure the percentage of weight front to rear:
Front %= Total weight on both front tires divided by the total weight of the car X 100.
Rear %= Total weight on both rear tires divided by the total weight of the car X 100.
These should add up to 100% of course.
3.Now you can figure the ideal weight for each wheel:
LF ideal weight= % on front tires X total weight on both left tires, divide by 100.
RF ideal weight= % on front tires X total weight on both right tires, divide by 100.
LR ideal weight= % on rear tires X total weight on both left tires, divide by 100.
RR ideal weight= % on rear tires X total weight on both right tires, divide by 100.
4.Now compare this to your actual readings and adjust accordingly. Note that they should all be off an equal amount. You may not want to bother with a 10 pound difference, but 50 pounds is excessive and should be adjusted. Do this by raising/lowering ride height at the proper corner. Adjusting the corner weight at one corner of the car effects the weights at ALL FOUR TIRES. Weigh the car again and check your work.
5.Reconnect your sway bars. When you do, if the endlinks don't contact equally on both left and right sides of the car, you will need to shim an endlink with washer(s). An unbalanced sway bar will throw off cornerweights.

This all sounds quite complicated, but once everything is in front of you it will seem pretty straightforward. If you have any questions/comments, let me know. Good luck. -SGHOM

[Rally205]

Have you done it then Derek?

[SGHOM]

Have you done it then Derek?

who ? me ?? /pan

no chance Marcus..... far to complexicated for my ickle mind !!

Just lifted it from another forum FYI. :2thumbsup