Lash Adjusters Tick Tick Tick

[Mikesone]

Just wondered if any of you suffering from the tick tick noise a large majority of the VR4's suffer from have tried the following.

It is something I picked up from an engineer, but have a couple of reservations about trying it out. Sound a bit err lethal.

The theory is that the Lash Adjuster hole (which the oil runs through) gets gummed up with carbon deposits, now I've tried loads of different stuff/additives and put them in the oil, but none seem to do a capable job.

The engineer reckons I should try petrol, 1/2pint to the oil and should be done with fresh oil change.
Run the engine around 2500rpm for 20mins and then replace the oil.

The reason petrol is used is that this is probably one of the best solvents for breaking down cardon, I'm just not sure about putting it in with the oil and running the engine.

Any thoughts/advise??

Thanks

[KiwiTT]

I get the noise only when cold. After a few minutes it is gone.

Do a search on oil additives

[marmel31]

The reason petrol is used is that this is probably one of the best solvents for breaking down cardon, I'm just not sure about putting it in with the oil and running the engine.

Any thoughts/advise??

Thanks

Seems odd that petrol is recommended as I got told by the Mitsi service agent that the Legnum GDI motors can suffer from carbon deposits in the cylinders from low octane fuel. I guess there could be a difference as the petrol in the oil wouldn't be combusted?

[Nick Mann]

I do similar with white spirit when changing the oil. Give it a good flush!

[amsoil]

Don't use oil additives, they don't work like they claim to.
If you use a top full and real synthetic you just don't get gunge deposits at all. If you put Amsoil in the engine it will erode all the deposits over time until there is nothing left to clean. It certainly does have an amazing ability to retain all this crap without degrading itself. I think its quite possible that Motul will do just as good a cleaning job but unsure now of Mobile 1 as I now find that it contains about 10 - 20 percent mineral, but that as they say is a different story! My personal thought is that as long as the oil going in can equal or be greater than the oil going out there will be no tapping as the lifter will be pumped up. A bigger hole will of course cure the situation and a lifter with a bigger hole will be able to handle buildups far better. No build up is of course desirable. The critical question will be if the poor oil used has allowed wear to take place in the 2 parts of the lifter which may allow more oil to escape. If the oil escaping out ability is now greater that the oil in, even with clean holes, then nothing but replacement will cure the problem. Financial prudence may tend to suggest that Amsoil for the next change and then a couple of months use may save the cost of buying and fitting new lifters of standard or oversize hole type. Let us all know your thought on this.

[wirdy]

The engineer reckons I should try petrol, 1/2pint to the oil and should be done with fresh oil change.
Run the engine around 2500rpm for 20mins and then replace the oil.

Interesting idea. I've not heard of petrol before, but like Nick I use either white spirit or waste jet fuel (kerosene) as engine flush. Petrol will do the same thing but a lot quicker - perhaps too quickly? and it'll vaporise fast. The ctrankcase ventilation system should keep the fumes internal and burn them off but I'd watch out for any sources of ignition around your engine bay while doing it just in case.



The reason petrol is used is that this is probably one of the best solvents for breaking down cardon, I'm just not sure about putting it in with the oil and running the engine.

Any thoughts/advise??

Thanks

You'll be okay with just half a pint.

Even better if you can run the engine for 10 mins then leave overnight, then run again for 10 mins later the next day. The lash adjusters will get a chance to drain a little bit overnight & refill again next day.
Have now done 20k miles with NO ticking by flushing with cheap oil & white spirit, then refilling with good fully synth for every oil change.

I think the lash adjuster problem is cumulative and caused by missing oil changes or using inferior oil so may take a couple of short interval flushes & oil changes to reverse the trend. Good luck & let us know if it works.

[Davezj]

I have a jeep 138K on the clock. I had thought about using petrol to flush my engine, but did not have the balls to do it. Tappets are noisy, so put engine flush additive in and they went quiet immediately. I presume the flush thinned the oil. Replaced oil and filter thinking all was cured and tapping noise immediately came back. So put Wyns additive in to quiet it down made no difference.
Anyway back on topic I did a search and found a site that lists the ingredient of product injector cleaners, engine flush, and loads of other household stuff. The majority of the cleaners have the largest ingredient listed as petroleum distillate (read odourless Kerosene and equivalent) up to 100% concentration. I think I will ditch the oil in my engine and flush it with petrol to see what happens. It's and old engine so probably has massive build up of crap inside. I will do the add it, run it, leave it over night, run it, drain it. I will do this next weekend.
I will let you know.

[amsoil]

I have heard about kerosene being used but petrol sounds a bit dodgy IMHO. Reasoning for using it appears sound enough but to go 1st one stage further; Is the time , trouble and cost of getting the kerosene worth it when 'Blogs' engine flush is cheap and readily available?
The next stage is .... if the car had been using a quality synthetic oil in the 1st place then you wouldn't be be looking to spend your afternoon and use a flush of any discription in the 1st place !? Of course you may have just got this car with its gunged up motor and it may therefore be someone elses legacy.
Just a thought, but surely putting in a decent oil is cheaper than buying lifters even if they have bigger holes?

[wirdy]

Is the time , trouble and cost of getting the kerosene worth it when 'Blogs' engine flush is cheap and readily available?


Remember for kerosene read paraffin, stiil available on most garage forecourts. :2thumbsup

[Davezj]

Also remeber household heating oil is normally Kerosene. if any of you know anyone or have no access to mains gas supply then your heating oil is probally kerosene.

[psbarham]

Also remeber household heating oil is normally Kerosene. if any of you know anyone or have no access to mains gas supply then your heating oil is probally kerosene.
yup i've just ordered 500 litres of the stuff

[Wodjno]

All round to Pauls for the Engine Flush then.. /pan

[psbarham]

All round to Pauls for the Engine Flush then.. /pan
thats fine , as long as i can have the optimax out of your tank to heat the house with /help

[Wodjno]

thats fine , as long as i can have the optimax out of your tank to heat the house with /help

Not a Problem Paul.. :2thumbsup If you think there will be any left by the time i drive to yours :inquisiti

[psbarham]

Not a Problem Paul.. :2thumbsup If you think there will be any left by the time i drive to yours :inquisiti
aah good point , you should really put that lump of 3x3 under the throttle pedal