Wanted...Type S wheel Arch Extensions

[L6]

Hi All,

I am still on a quest to fit the Kei D2 Rims:pimp2: and to do this I need the four Arch extension bits Has any of you got a set??

Ideally in Black but the colour does'nt matter I am open to any sensible price as they mean I can Fit the rims (Hopefully) ???

[WildCards]

Don't they just stick over the orignal arches and not actually extend them? This may not solve your problem mate.

[L6]

Hello to you

I have seen the ones on pezza's car and they allow the fitment of his 235's over 225's as other wise they would stick out proud of the arch, I need them for the same "width reason" except its not the tyre width thats the problem its the wheel.
15mm thick would sort it and even if they are shallow I intend to get a body shop to pack them off the body further and fibre glass fill any gaps.

[WildCards]

Hello back :2thumbsup

That's cool mate, I thought they were just stuck on, didn't realise they make the inside of the arch bigger!

[pezza]

They are just glued and attached with plastic pop rivets to brackets in the arch liner... Steve you are right they dont widen the arch but flare the arches visually so if wheels are a little wider they dont sit too proud of the bodywork..


Tyres fouling wheel arches will only occur if car is lowered too much and suspension setting too soft I imagine...so Tim you may need bodywork to roll the arches (or as on my last V6 the previous owner cut /Grrr away the inside lip) if you plan to lower the car, but for a visual effect maybe have the extensions packed out that bit further...

With 8.5 inch rims I guess the minimum width tyre is a 235, or maybe 245
but then you are talking big money for tyres esp with a 35 profile on 18 inch tyre x 4!!! /help

Good luck!!!

[L6]

Thanks Derek

I am still trying to get them to fit, I will have the first one which is now becoming very well traveled back to me on Tuesday for a fitted test opposed to a push on and hope for the best test which I did yesterday.

Wether it does or does'nt I will soon see.

I wont be lowering the car and If I ever do it wont be by a lot so the rubbing on the arch prob may not be an issue.

I have checked with Mo for the bits and he said they are in demand and to contact him in a week or so.

Don't surpose you know of any one else do you Derek ??

[pezza]

Hi Tim,

still got your heart set on these rims eh /yes Did you find out whether they come in 8 inch too?

There may be one other source of these arch extensions from a pal I spoke to today but I need to double check over the weekend first...

Cheers

[Louis]

HI,
I have a set of wolfrace Katanas, 17 x 7.0 with a 40mm offset, with 235 / 45 / 17 Goodyear Eagle F1's.
I have a 1998 Legnum Vr4, I do not have the wheel arch extensions ,(and they're not like huge or anything) and I recon the rears are totally fine, the fronts are just a tad too wide, about 5mm outside the arch, but this is down to the 235 / 45, and would be fine with 225 / 45, the wheels are a perfect fit, it's just the 235's are a tad wide.

Whether the wheels are 6 inch, 7 inch, or eight inch wide, the extra width goes in the way. The offset is still the same regardless if the width.

watch for clearance between the hub carrier at the top and the tyre.

When I fitted my coilovers and lowered the car I have more tyre wheel clearance, as when the wheel moves up it moves in. (see diagrams)

THE MAIN THING IS, if you lower the suspension the wheels will move inwards. See explanation below, cheers Louis

first pic is standard height

second pic is lowered height

last pic is explanation

[Louis]

It is not a great deal of inward movement, maybe 6 to 7 mm, I have exagerated it in the diagrams, but that was enough in my case, remember you aer only talking in millimetres, the difference between a 38mm (evo) and a 40mm (my alloys) and a 45mm (other alloys) is 7mm, which isn't really that much. I thought same as you about fitting the wheel arch bits from a later model, but ended up not having to. (not sure how they fit, or if you need the side skirts etc)

[pezza]

With the car lowered louis is there never any rubbing at all on hard cornering or loading? How far have you lowered the far?

Also you say you have 7inch wide rims? Your brembos fit ok over those too?

[Louis]

I have about 2.5cm tyre to arch vertical clearance, if I went lower the arch would land on top of the tyre, the stiff suspension stop too much travel.
No rubbing , but I have to watch speed bumps and overloading with people! .
By my measurements I should just clear with the brembos on, I have all the bits, but have not fitted them yet, I will post as soon as I get them on.
But Much more stable and more fun. (and it looks so much better lower)

[L6]

Great info from you both

I will not be lowering mine alot and not for a while way too many speed bumps round my way.

Derek the lead on the arch extensions sounds good, thanks for chasing them up
It will be good to see If the chap comes through with them.

I am still persisting with trying to get them to fit, they just look so cool If I ever manage it you'll have to come and have a look

I am now in sunny Burton on trent and am off down to Dudley tommorow AM to have my Geomertry set up as well as a Rear LSD flush and new Syntrac's fluid well it sounded like syntrac or somthing similar.

TTFN

TimM

[bradc]

I'm going to do a similar thing with mine, keep the wheel arches and get the internal parts removed, should be good for my 265 tyres and 9" wheels :)

Let us all know how it goes.

[Piers1989]

MEGA THREAD NECRO!!! OVER 10 YEARS!!!

Sorry, now that's out of the way - These arrived the other day:
767217672276723

They are being fitted mid next week, at stock height for now.

I have 235/35/17 tyres, and they already rub on the rear arches. The front doesn't, but sticks out even more! It's just so high stock that it's fine.
Based on the below, if I lower the car a couple of cm, maybe a little more, will that be enough to keep the wheels and tyres inside the body?
Here are some pics of what it is like now:
Rear:
7672476725

Front:
76726767277672876729

I'm concerned that the front won't be enough, and I'll need to get the arches rolled or cut!
Any input would be appreciated :)


HI,
I have a set of wolfrace Katanas, 17 x 7.0 with a 40mm offset, with 235 / 45 / 17 Goodyear Eagle F1's.
I have a 1998 Legnum Vr4, I do not have the wheel arch extensions ,(and they're not like huge or anything) and I recon the rears are totally fine, the fronts are just a tad too wide, about 5mm outside the arch, but this is down to the 235 / 45, and would be fine with 225 / 45, the wheels are a perfect fit, it's just the 235's are a tad wide.

Whether the wheels are 6 inch, 7 inch, or eight inch wide, the extra width goes in the way. The offset is still the same regardless if the width.

watch for clearance between the hub carrier at the top and the tyre.

When I fitted my coilovers and lowered the car I have more tyre wheel clearance, as when the wheel moves up it moves in. (see diagrams)

THE MAIN THING IS, if you lower the suspension the wheels will move inwards. See explanation below, cheers Louis

first pic is standard height

second pic is lowered height

last pic is explanation

[Louis]

The 235/45/17 should not rub on the rear arches at standard height!, I haven't heard of this before unless the rear springs are weak!.
The photo of the front tyre sticking out looks the same as mind did before lowering the suspension on the coilovers.
The wheel and tyre will move inwards as the car lowers, and the camber will change and the top of the wheel , tyre will move onwards to give negative camber which moves the top in under the arch a bit more.
Based on the photo of the front, you will be fine when you lower the suspension. The new tein springs on the rear can be set stiff ( pre load slightly, as they are stiff anyway) and once you adjust and set the shock the bounce will be less, so it should not rub.
:)

[Piers1989]

The 235/45/17 should not rub on the rear arches at standard height!, I haven't heard of this before unless the rear springs are weak!.
The photo of the front tyre sticking out looks the same as mind did before lowering the suspension on the coilovers.
The wheel and tyre will move inwards as the car lowers, and the camber will change and the top of the wheel , tyre will move onwards to give negative camber which moves the top in under the arch a bit more.
Based on the photo of the front, you will be fine when you lower the suspension. The new tein springs on the rear can be set stiff ( pre load slightly, as they are stiff anyway) and once you adjust and set the shock the bounce will be less, so it should not rub.
:)

Thanks Louis.

The rears only rub on high speed driving when you hit a compression, but they definatley do rub under these conditions!
I have the full EDFC Active Pro kit which adjusts the shock based on speed and Lateral/longitudinal G force so it should stiffen up under the conditions they were rubbing on before.

In relation to setting the spring stiffness, I didn't see anything about that in the manual, could you elaborate? EDIT - Just watched a youtube video on setting pre load.
Also relating to the camber shift, after they are fitted I will be getting a laser alignment done. I assume they will fix the camber to get the wheel level - will that cause a problem at that stage?

[Davezj]

As you have teins with sping pre load adjust and ride height separate.
to set the suspension up up with the correct level of preload as specified by the manufactiure you grab the spring and rotate it on the shock then do the spring seat up until you can't easily rotate the spring, this puts a very slight pre load into the spring then do the locking nut up onto the spring seat. The ride height is adjusted via the lower adjuster nut.
you can put more preload into the spring if you want to but this makes the ride much more crashy the suspension will go band, bang, bang, over .

preload is a funny thing to get your head round but let me explain in the hopefully simple terms to get the idea of it across. the number i will are abitrary and bear no releation to the real world it just to make the point.

say you a 100kg compression spring which is 300mm long it will take 100kg to fully compress the spring.

if you pre compress the 300mm spring down to 250mm which is called putting preload into the spring and to do this you apply a 20kg force.

you will have to apply and 20kg fornce to the spring before it will start to compress. so this is why i say if you apply lots of preload the ride will be a bit crashy. as the smaller bumps will not be soaked up be the spring and shocks as the spring will not not compress untill you apply a force of more than 20kg.

basically as long as the preload you put into the spring is not more than the force applied to the spring when the car is lowered onto the ground then the ride will not be crashy.

with the older style teins with no separate height adjust to raise the height of the car you have to put preload into the spring to push the car up. when lowering the car you have to take preload out of the spring but if you dont have helper springs you can only remove preload back the the minimum factory specified other wise the spring can become loose and rattle about on the spring seats. it can be a fine line between to much preload to get the ride height you want and the not making the ride crashy. if you find the ride is crashy when you set the ride height you want the only thing you can do is to get stuffer springs and then you dont have to put as much preload into the spring to get the height you want.

but this is only for older style teins not yours as they have separate height adjustment as can be seen in the pictures.

hope this sort of make sense.

just out of interest what is the spring rate of the spring fitted to the front and rear shock, it should be written on the spring in the form of a number, something like K080-01300 for the front and and K050-01250 on the rear.

[Piers1989]

As you have teins with sping pre load adjust and ride height separate.
to set the suspension up up with the correct level of preload as specified by the manufactiure you grab the spring and rotate it on the shock then do the spring seat up until you can't easily rotate the spring, this puts a very slight pre load into the spring then do the locking nut up onto the spring seat. The ride height is adjusted via the lower adjuster nut.
you can put more preload into the spring if you want to but this makes the ride much more crashy the suspension will go band, bang, bang, over .

preload is a funny thing to get your head round but let me explain in the hopefully simple terms to get the idea of it across. the number i will are abitrary and bear no releation to the real world it just to make the point.

say you a 100kg compression spring which is 300mm long it will take 100kg to fully compress the spring.

if you pre compress the 300mm spring down to 250mm which is called putting preload into the spring and to do this you apply a 20kg force.

you will have to apply and 20kg fornce to the spring before it will start to compress. so this is why i say if you apply lots of preload the ride will be a bit crashy. as the smaller bumps will not be soaked up be the spring and shocks as the spring will not not compress untill you apply a force of more than 20kg.

basically as long as the preload you put into the spring is not more than the force applied to the spring when the car is lowered onto the ground then the ride will not be crashy.

with the older style teins with no separate height adjust to raise the height of the car you have to put preload into the spring to push the car up. when lowering the car you have to take preload out of the spring but if you dont have helper springs you can only remove preload back the the minimum factory specified other wise the spring can become loose and rattle about on the spring seats. it can be a fine line between to much preload to get the ride height you want and the not making the ride crashy. if you find the ride is crashy when you set the ride height you want the only thing you can do is to get stuffer springs and then you dont have to put as much preload into the spring to get the height you want.

but this is only for older style teins not yours as they have separate height adjustment as can be seen in the pictures.

hope this sort of make sense.

Yeah it does, thanks Dave.
I saw in the manual that the lower seat is what I adjust for height adjustment.
As they are set from the factory (I measured it all to make sure too as it gives all the figures in the manual), I'll leave it for now and see what it's like. I can always tweak it later if I feel it needs adjusting.

I also just bought a set of basic tools to assist with stuff like this as I had practically nothing!
Trolley jack, axle stands, chocks and a slide.

[Louis]

As Dave said :)

You shouldn't have to pre load as the tein springs are much stiffer that the standard ones.