Clutch Problems

[Axeboy]

/Grrr Hi All

Had the car out for a test run today with conaboy and when i floored it and lifted the clutch it wasnt how i expected..

Basically the clutch was still active, ie lots of engine noise, little movement and a nice clutchy burning smell.

However, everything seems fine when i test the clutch wih the handbrake on /Grrr

Soooo...

My question is this... being a Noob n all... could the fact that the car has been sitting for about 6 months cause this? Or any other non-new-clutch theory?


the next question is.... where can i get a new clutch and how much am i looking at for fitting? /pan /pan

[richy rich]

sound like the clutch is got good but not f*cked

we can give you a price for changing it if you like.

[Axeboy]

Richy

Im a tad out of the way :p

However, could you PM me a price for the supply and fit of the clutch plus a timing belt change. If its good (i havnt asked my mate at 'the garage' yet) i might be able to bring it down. This will be the worst case.

Im waiting on Mo getting back too... he might help... hopefully :p

[richy rich]

im not doing cambelts at mo

but i can give you a price for clutch

[Axeboy]

Why not...

Do you know if the clutch is 240mm?

[psbarham]

im not doing cambelts at mo

do you want kieren and myself to show you how to do one ????

[Axeboy]

Question guys.

Maybe wishful thinkign here:

Ive found out that my recent quickshift install was too quick... hehe

ie it wasnt throwing the shift far enough (no reverse lights but in reverse gear).

Now... im sure that its either in gear or not.... but could this cause clutch issues???

Please say yes :p

[psbarham]

trust me you would know if it wasn't gear properly , there would be one hell of a racket from under the bonnet and bugger all in the forward motion department

[Axeboy]

damn you!

Dont make me unhappy!

[psbarham]

damn you!

Dont make me unhappy!
sorry bud , i didn't want to upset you , have you tried bleeding the clutch ? also where is the biting point of the clutch ? if its a long way up then its a new clutch i'm afraid

[Axeboy]

biting point is fine...

Hmmm... it has been sitting for aaaaaages....

How would i bleed the clutch? :p

[richy rich]

do you want kieren and myself to show you how to do one ????
yes pls:2thumbsup

[psbarham]

biting point is fine...

Hmmm... it has been sitting for aaaaaages....

How would i bleed the clutch? :p
same way as brakes , if you get it bled up and all is fine and then it goes again either the seals in the master cyl or the slave cyl are on the way out

[psbarham]

yes pls:2thumbsup
K? how much should we charge him for the lessons , and then i have to make and sell you the special tensioner adjusting tool , oh and an oversize swear jar

[richy rich]

K? how much should we charge him for the lessons , and then i have to make and sell you the special tensioner adjusting tool , oh and an oversize swear jar
i was wondering about that tool if i can bye one from mitsi

if not i can make 1

[psbarham]

i was wondering about that tool if i can bye one from mitsi

if not i can make 1
have fun , they are a complete pig , i have the exact dimensions kicking about somewhere

[psbarham]

How would i bleed the clutch? :p

To bleed the clutch slave cylinder, you need to remove the battery & windshield washer fluid bottle. The slave cylinder is on top of the tranny between the engine and the firewall.

Usually, you need two people to bleed hydraulic systems -- one to open & close the bleed screws, the other to press the pedal. Here are the steps for brakes or clutches:

1) attach small hose to bleed screw on top of brake caliper or slave cylinder, place other end into a catch container

2) top off fluid in reservoir, brake and clutch reservoirs are always in the engine compartment on the firewall on the drivers side

3) open bleed screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn

4) depress pedal (clutch or brake) all the way to the floor

5) close screw

6) release pedal

7) go back to step 2

Actually, you don't have to do step 2 with every pedal press. Usually you can

go 5 to 10 pedal presses before you have to fill the reservoir. Just be sure to not let the fluid drain completely out since this will introduce air bubbles into the lines, and you're bleeding to remove the bubbles. Also, empty the catch can often. When the fluid entering the catch can is clean, you can stop repeating the steps and move on to the next caliper.

Also there are one-person bleeder products such as hoses with checkvalves. This means that you can open the bleed screw and not have to close it with each pedal push. Hence, one person can bleed their clutch/brakes.

[Axeboy]

Nice one.

I'll have a try at this tomorrow.... fingers crossed!

[richy rich]

have fun , they are a complete pig , i have the exact dimensions kicking about somewhere
as an precision engineer i think i could do it with a spear pulley

[psbarham]

as an precision engineer i think i could do it with a spear pulley
was that before becoming a plumber , and a lorry driver , but after the English lessons :P

[richy rich]

was that before becoming a plumber , and a lorry driver , but after the English lessons :P
yes you tuikin de p*sss agayn

[psbarham]

yes you tuikin de p*sss agayn
whu mei ? wood iye ?

[richy rich]

i fink you wood

[Nutter_John]

Oh Dear looks like I may have to replace my clutch as well .

After I had the car on a Rolling Road the result seemed a little low , a suggestion was to reset the ECU (disco battery) . I did this last night and the car does feel a little quicker but I've notice that under hard acceleration the clutch seems to be slipping :( .

I've done a search on here and there has been a few mentions of a EVO 1/2/3 clutch fitting our cars (98 EC5A) , if this is case is it worth while uprating the clutch rather than just going with the standard (I intend to fit a boost controller and a unichip in the very nr furture ) .


Also what sort of price am I looking at for fitting one (been a pricey month with having the cam belt done as well )


Cheers John