What turbo upgrades have you done?

[Kalle]

Please write here if you have done a turbo upgrade!

State the full name of the new turbos and what modifications that had to be done! A quick review on how the upgrade affected the performance is also appreciated! :)

[Spirit]

Kalle

Off topic, sorry, but you know you asked me to change your name.......you have forgotten to change your car info :evilgrin:

[Kalle]

Has no-one changed their turbos??

[BraindG]

There a few that have done some light work to the turbos.. zentac is currently converting to a single turbo.. but no large scale work has ever been done...

[Nick Mann]

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12137
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6405

The best you will get at the moment, I think, but Zentacs single conversion is becoming interesting reading!

[valmes]

That's an old link...
I've changed my turbos to pair of TD04L-13T. I won't be running more than 0,5-0,6 bar of boost until I have all of the "suporting" mods in there.

[Kenneth]

... I won't be running more than 0,5-0,6 bar of boost until I have all of the "suporting" mods in there.

Even by accident? ;)

[valmes]

Even by accident? ;)

Yeah... sh*t happens :D ... but no, boost didn't do any harm to my last engine.

It was a spun bearing, caused by oil contamination... due to a "human factor" actually. Guys that were putting my engine back after an accident didn't feel like checking the oil pan for debris left over from a damaged head cover... /Grrr

[Eurospec]

I'd have thought you could get any of the TD04 range of turbos on to the car, so 9b's 13G's, 15G's right up to 19T's.

The issue would be physical space i'd have thought and having enough fuel to support them.

Cheers,

Ben.

[Wodjno]

So aren't all TD04's external dimensions the same??

[bradc]

Ben, while you probably can, to fit a TD04 onto our cars you would need to get manifolds, downpipes and a ton of oil and water lines made up, the stock ones just won't work.

[valmes]

Ben, while you probably can, to fit a TD04 onto our cars you would need to get manifolds, downpipes and a ton of oil and water lines made up, the stock ones just won't work.

You can use stock manifolds.
Downpipes... well, what you really need are those parts coming of the turbo exhaust sides and down to downpipes.
Oil and coolant lines to turbos - stock lines will work with some modifications.

So in a prefect world of course you would need custom made manifolds, new downpipes and 4 oil lines plus 4 water lines, but... ;)

PS: I advice you get an oil filter relocation/movement kit.

[valmes]

Off topic ... just had a run with Kawasaki ZXR750 :)

We stopped at the light, my car and two bikes (second one had a FZR something sign on it), two people were sitting on a 750. I asked him "How fast is your bike from a stop?" His reply was - "Wanna chek it out?"... Sure! :) Well they lost the start and didn't catch up until I eased off at the next light :) ...

Bike driver was kinda disappointed... all three of them actually...

- "What've you got in there?"
- "2,5 Twin Turbo"
- "If I was alone - would take you out..."

Well, I guess they were kinda late - cause they took off and didn't hear me reply "Next time you are going to ride this thing alone I won't be running only 0,6 bar of boost" ;).

Hell, I love this car!

PS: We just had adjusted fueling with the help of LM-1 and Ultimate... 0,6 bar does feel good now!!! :2thumbsup

[WildCards]

What's you 0-60 and 0-100 Valmes? Any 1/4's recorded with your latest setup?

[valmes]

Apexi RSM today recorded 5.30 sec 0-100 kph (~4,96 sec 0-60mph) and 13,74 sec 400 meters (13,81 1/4 miles). I didn't push the car, just wanted to know how well it goes without making too much effort on the drivers side... so I probably did a lot better with bikes :) since it felt more important at the moment! Yesterday, I was with my friend in the car (both me and my friend are 105 kg ;) ) and slightly up the hill - RSM recorded 14,08.

I know those are not the results to be proud of, but were done with boost holding around 0,6 bar to redline.

[Nick Mann]

They are very good times for 0.6 bar! Surely if you are running 0.6 bar then the only advantage over smaller turbos is the efficiency? Has the fuelling changed much with the turbos? Have you/when will you set it all up for higher boost?

[Wodjno]

Sounds impressiive Valmes :2thumbsup

0.6bar and sub 6 sec 0-60's /help Is that about 8psi ? So not far off standard boost clocking more than 1 sec quicker to 60mph.
0.6 bar held to the red line isn't that impressive:inquisiti Well not for 2 x TD04's .. I reckon they would hold 1.6Bar to the Redline :evilgrin: Whether your engine would aswell isn't a different story :speechles

Maybe i shall carry on and put on my TD04HL's.. :zzz:

[valmes]

Sounds impressiive Valmes :2thumbsup

0.6bar and sub 6 sec 0-60's /help Is that about 8psi ? So not far off standard boost clocking more than 1 sec quicker to 60mph.
0.6 bar held to the red line isn't that impressive:inquisiti Well not for 2 x TD04's .. I reckon they would hold 1.6Bar to the Redline :evilgrin: Whether your engine would aswell isn't a different story :speechles

Maybe i shall carry on and put on my TD04HL's.. :zzz:

No, I think you misunderstood me ;)

I am running wastegate actuator pressure... or stock boost! So holding 6 bars to red line is not a limitation of turbos (well, I will tell you more on the subject when the time comes... there is a bigger misunderstanding in all of this - don't blame me... later. I will explain it later... ). They can hold 1,6-1,7 bar to redline, but I haven't got my hands on Apexi AVC-R yet (I bought it and now waiting for it to be delivered). Already got Grex oil cooler/movement kit, Exedy EVO 7/8 metalaceramic Twin Plate clutch kit (pressure plate and flywheel included), waiting for my third (duh... I managed to brake two intercoolers so far) intercooler and a Hybrid datalogger cable from US, as well as LC-1 WB cable... right now I am using friends LM-1 to tune. BTW, Just replaced my broken Blitz Blow off with HKS SSQV - its loud, but I like it!



They are very good times for 0.6 bar! Surely if you are running 0.6 bar then the only advantage over smaller turbos is the efficiency? Has the fuelling changed much with the turbos? Have you/when will you set it all up for higher boost?

Hopefully I am getting last bits over the next week and will start putting everything together...
Yes of course I have altered the fueling… that would be a crime, not to.. when you have LM-1 attached to e-manage Ultimate sitting in a Turbo car ;)

[Kieran]

I can't get my head around turbos at the moment. Or, more specifically, how you "size" a turbo to an engine. But I did spot these. So, would someone be gentle with me and tell me if these are any good?! /dunce :embarasse

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Turbocharger-Turbolader-Mitsubishi-TF035HL-14G-6_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQitemZ806348138 2

[Wodjno]

Kieran ! I think thats pretty much like what we have on our cars now :thinking:

But i could be wrong !!

[bradc]

Kieran, have a read of http://www.stealth316.com/2-turboguide.htm and http://www.stealth316.com/2-3s-compflowmaps.htm

The trick is to get a turbo that supports the airflow you need at a viable boost level. For 100hp you need about 150-160cfm of airflow. If you look at the TD04-13G map, you'll see that if you want to run 14psi (absolute pressure of just below 2) that you will be able to flow about 250cfm at reasonable efficiency, but if you really want to push it, you'll be able to to 350-360cfm, which is about 230hp per turbo, or 460hp for the whole car.

Valmes has already said that TD04's spool up quickly on our cars, so these would be a very good turbo for our cars.

Valmes - great results, I can't wait until you increase the boost a little more, I think the results will be very interesting at 1bar or more.

[zentac]

There a few that have done some light work to the turbos.. zentac is currently converting to a single turbo.. but no large scale work has ever been done...

What you mean.... putting a VR4 engine in an FTO then converting it to single turbo is pritty large stuff if you ask me.... what else do you want me to do? Convert it to 4WD.... oh go on then If I must ;)

[Kieran]

What you mean.... putting a VR4 engine in an FTO then converting it to single turbo is pritty large stuff if you ask me.... what else do you want me to do? Convert it to 4WD.... oh go on then If I must ;)

Show off! /lol

[Eurospec]

You can use stock manifolds.
Downpipes... well, what you really need are those parts coming of the turbo exhaust sides and down to downpipes.
Oil and coolant lines to turbos - stock lines will work with some modifications.

So in a prefect world of course you would need custom made manifolds, new downpipes and 4 oil lines plus 4 water lines, but... ;)

PS: I advice you get an oil filter relocation/movement kit.

I thought the blowers on these cars were TD04 based units anyway? Obviously not!

If they arent then the largest ammount of fabbing would be on the turbo exhaust housing to downpipe connections as you suggest. I would call that the O2 housing, but i dont know what you guys call it. The feed/drain lines wouldnt be that bad to do.

TD04's arent all the same external dimensions- for example the 13T's will likely be bigger as they often use the compressor housing from a scooby, which is a lot bigger than a TD04 compressor housing. A true TD04 turbo, eg a 9b, 13G or 15G will be the same external size unless you start gettiing into the TD04L and HL

Cheers,

Ben.

[valmes]

I thought the blowers on these cars were TD04 based units anyway? Obviously not!

If they arent then the largest ammount of fabbing would be on the turbo exhaust housing to downpipe connections as you suggest. I would call that the O2 housing, but i dont know what you guys call it. The feed/drain lines wouldnt be that bad to do.

TD04's arent all the same external dimensions- for example the 13T's will likely be bigger as they often use the compressor housing from a scooby, which is a lot bigger than a TD04 compressor housing. A true TD04 turbo, eg a 9b, 13G or 15G will be the same external size unless you start gettiing into the TD04L and HL

Cheers,

Ben.
Our stock turbos are TD03s. They a bit smaller even than a proper TD04.

We don't call it O2 housing simply because we have single O2 sensor mounted right after the downpipe, not like GTO which has two O2 sensors after each turbo, hence the name for the part I guess.

I did have some "not enough space" kinda problems while fitting TD04L-13Ts, but nothing major. Push firewall a little, move oil filter holder, change radiator fan to a thinner one (from 3000GT)... stuff like that.


2 Bradc
I can't wait myself, but I wanna do it right. No excuses for me if I blow yet another engine just for few minutes of fun! :5shots:

[zentac]

Our stock turbos are TD03s. They a bit smaller even than a proper TD04.

We don't call it O2 housing simply because we have single O2 sensor mounted right after the downpipe, not like GTO which has two O2 sensors after each turbo, hence the name for the part I guess.

I did have some "not enough space" kinda problems while fitting TD04L-13Ts, but nothing major. Push firewall a little, move oil filter holder, change radiator fan to a thinner one (from 3000GT)... stuff like that.


2 Bradc
I can't wait myself, but I wanna do it right. No excuses for me if I blow yet another engine just for few minutes of fun! :5shots:
I looked at the TD04 's but I already had to do everything Valmes mentioned just to get the VR4 engine into the FTO so I had no room at all for the TD04's

[d3x]

I looked at the TD04 's but I already had to do everything Valmes mentioned just to get the VR4 engine into the FTO so I had no room at all for the TD04's

not like you to admit defeat, theres me thinking that you could do anything with these engines... :pimp2:

[zentac]

it would have meant moving the radiator and cutting a hole in the bulkhead as I couldnt move it any more.

[Eurospec]

How about a hybred TD03 then? That way you can get round the tricky bits.

I´m pretty sure we could build something for a trial if somone has a pair of old spare snails laying around. At least if i had a set i could see what we can do.

Anyone know the std a/r? Maybe try something ´small´ to start to make sure it will spool it.

Cheers,

Ben.

[Nick Mann]

I have a pair of mullered turbos that have already been worked on. I guess they won't be much help, but if you want them then let me know where you are!

[valmes]

I think they a far TOO small to start with... no point in moding them - leave them as is or change them altogether.

[bradc]

I agree with valmes, no point dicking around with our little small turbos, just get new ones

[Eurospec]

I have a pair of mullered turbos that have already been worked on. I guess they won't be much help, but if you want them then let me know where you are!

Hello mate i'm in surrey. I'll pm you the address. :happy:

Guys, why do you think it wont work to build a hybred? Is the exhaust housing way too small or what?

Cheers,

Ben.

[Kieran]

Guys, why do you think it wont work to build a hybred? Is the exhaust housing way too small or what?

It's just they seem teeny-tiny!! Not sure what you could do to them. Some Jap owners have had the turbine wheels clipped, not sure if this helps much. The only other tweak I've seen are on Nick's dead'uns, which had the inlet nozzles bored out a bit.... Again, not sure if this helps things much?

[Kenneth]

Some Jap owners have had the turbine wheels clipped, not sure if this helps much.

Apparently it does... IIRC, clipping the turbines means that there is less exaust restriction at high RPM and therfore the engine flows better. As we all know flow is what determines power.
Another benefit is that your turbo hopefully runs more efficiently at higher RPM as it is not trying to go quite so fast. Again the result is better flow.

[zentac]

Ben, I sent a pair off to Rob who makes the 13T's for the GTO's, he took them to his turbo builder and he could do nothing with them.

[SNWMAD]

So to change turbos the easier way i would:

-Get some tdo4 dump pipes
-relocate oil filter
-get GTO fans
-push firewall
-customise the pipes to and form the turbo's

Do i have to get a custom manifold or can i modify the orginal?

[valmes]

Hello mate i'm in surrey. I'll pm you the address. :happy:

Guys, why do you think it wont work to build a hybred? Is the exhaust housing way too small or what?

Cheers,

Ben.

They are WAY TO SMALL! The best TD03 Hybrid is TD04...

[valmes]

So to change turbos the easier way i would:

-Get some tdo4 dump pipes
-relocate oil filter
-get GTO fans
-push firewall
-customise the pipes to and form the turbo's

Do i have to get a custom manifold or can i modify the orginal?

No you don't really have to get custom manifold and you can modify the exhaust inlet of THE SUBARU TURBO, so it bolts right on to your stock manifolds.

+modify front engine mount
+modify turbos (you have to disassemble them and rotate compressor housing, cartridge and exhaust housing so that they fit right)
+also have to modify actuators
+oil and coolant lines can be changed or modified to make them fit

If I forgot to mention - before that you got to make changes to your fueling - fuel pump+rewire+AFPR, Upgraded Injectors and some minor modifications to your fuel rail to make them fit.

Upgraded clutch, exhaust+dowpipes, intercooler...

... and in order for all your mods to work as supposed, you have to have some sort of engine management system and datalogging. Wideband is a must! Knock detection... some sort of boost control will also help.

Better brakes (at list disks) and suspension wouldn't hurt either. To release all the heat from under the bonnet - you will need aftermarket bonnet itself and some thermo wrapping material (or heat coating of some parts).

[valmes]

Ok here is a shorter list... kinda... :) at least it is more structured! ;)

Disclaimer - it might not work for you - be sure you have a sound engine first. Faulty MAF, bad oil pump or bad plugs or even one incorrectly working injector can also ruin your engine... so be careful.

Stage 1 (install in order of appearance... except for boost gauge - you should have it in first)

Full 76 мм Exhaust+decat
Good Panel filter and good injectors gapped at 0,8mm (I use NGK platinum, some people preffer Iridium Greddy or HKS)
Fuel pump+rewire+AFPR( I will explain later why you would need this combo)
Apexi-S-AFC
Upgraded Blow-Off valve (we have a leaky plastic by pass valve)
MBC+Boost gauge (not bleeder type, but ball and spring type)

Now that's about it... for stage 1. Here are few step for getting 300-320HP out of you engine.

Now you have to set your base fuel pressure higher (from 44,5 psi to about 55 psi) that will up your injectors from standard 390cc to about 438,5 cc that's roughly 12,5% increase in injector size.

With your S-AFC correct your injectors size by subtracting -12,5% across the table (remember right now your are making corrections to your AirFlow output - MAF) and -20% from about 4000 to 7400 rpm at high throttle opening. It will indirectly alter your timing (advancing timing since now it reads from lower cells of the timing vs Hz map in ECU), but that is not a problem, on the contrary it will yield you more HPs.
S-AFC can see knock... but its kinda weird, so if you see it raise dramatically - back off. You can also watch Hz values with this thing. Better double check if everything works correct with wideband (borrow it if you don't want to buy it). You should start very rich at like 9,4:1 AFR and lean it out until you see no further improvements or you see excessive knock. Starting at 11,5 AFR at 4000 rpm at WOT and going to 10,6:1 AFR at 7400 is rather safe if not too rich.

Right now you should FEEL improvement even at stock boost, but go ahead and install your ball and spring MBC set at 0,6 bar. Better disconnect your stock boost solenoid at this time. This MBC type will give you instant turbo pick up (since it doesn’t let pressure to reach actuators until you already have 0,6 bar!!! Believe me you will see the difference) Now you can slowly turn up the boost... I think 0,8 is a safe level with good power (quoted earlier) 0,9-1,1 bar will require some further mods... in order to get you the desired results. You shouldn't be hitting fuel cut since your Hz values are now somewhat lower... you will have leaner AFR and some additional timing advance... Your car should feel much stronger.

Stage 2

Intercooler and piping
Upgraded Clutch
Downpipes
Intake pipes
Crank vent or better Oil catch tank (its is routed back into intake in stock form... and you don't want ANY oil in your intercooler or piping, even a small amount is a bad thing. With this mod if you've got oil - your turbos are crying for help)
Clipped turbine wheels
Stronger Actuator springs
More boost (0,9-1,1 range)
Don't underestimate the power of an aftermarket bonnet ;) it will help you maintain reasonable tempretures under the hood

At this point you should watch your IDCs (Injector Duty Cycle) closely, they should not exceed 80% at any time. Same here - watch knock and AFRs, turn up the boost and get it right.

Stage 3

Sell your S-AFC and get an e-manage Ultimate (by that time hopefully they will enable knock monitor...)
***** Btw here you have plenty of choices - you can get full stand alone ECU or good piggy back. Important thing to decide up front. MAP ECU and E-manage Ultimate let you run "speed density"(MAP) using your stock sensors and ECU. Link ECU, AEM, Motec, Haltech, Wolf etc are full replacement units.
You might also want to get something like an AVC-R at this stage (although, most people get some kind of EBC early on... MBC can do fine). Many standalone users prefer to run EBC along side their built in ability to control boost. Just a note... If you convert from MAF to MAP you will have less restriction on the Intake side, but how to do that is another story...
Now you can upgrade your twin turbos to something like TD04L-13T or EVOIII(Subaru on stock manifolds... anything you like on custom made ones) or go Single turbo.
Turbo oil and coolant lines
Turbo piping (from turbos to intercooler and from intercooler to throttle body, you should have "to turbos" piping by now)
Oil movement kit and oil cooler is a good thing to have
Upgraded injectors (at least 450cc, better yet 560 cc from EVO 8, they will require resistor pack from GTO... also SARD 530 will fit with minor fuel rail mods - they are longer than stock)

Now you can really try some good boost from 1,1 to 1,5 ... at least that's what I am planning to do, so don't ask me for Stage 4 tips ;) I am not there yet, but I know what could follow - forgies, cams, porting, even bigger turbos with external wastegates and bigger injectors, probably second fuel pump, ignition upgrade... and getting all this stuff to work.

Wow, did I just write all this? I guess I better stop... :afro:

[Kieran]

:scholar: Excellent Info Valmes - Thankyou and have a reputation point!:book: :2thumbsup

[valmes]

Thank you Kieran... ;)

[bradc]

Best post ever ^^^^ give the man a round of applause

[bradc]

I thought I'd add in a few things too. One of the NZ members, You See has a full aftermarket Link computer and has removed the MAF completely. The stock cars make around 150-170kw ATW depending on the boost they are running, at a recent dyno day we found some of the older cars running at higher boost levels, possibly due to a weakening in the actuators over time.

He started to run out of fuel with the stock fuel pump at 190kw ATW, and is running his injectors at 85% at the moment with just over 200kw ATW.

I think that Valme's listing of mods there is perfect. I'm doing it slightly differently myself, simply because I wanted to do it all in one go. I already have the vented bonnet and a full exhaust system from the turbo back.

The current list of upgrades to my car is:

A full replacement of all turbo pipes apart from the Y pipe, I was told it is fine for the stock turbos.

A 600x300x100mm intercooler, possibly a little large for our stock turbos, but fine for GT25R's

Iridium Spark Plugs, Fuel Pump, Batteries into boot, coooooold air feed into a sealed cold air box. All of these are essential, no point trying to do it without one.

Conversion to MAP. I thought the MAF was a waste of time and is only a restriction in the system.

Rising Rate Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, It increases fuel pressure with boost, which is a very good way to increase the flow, especially as I haven't changed my injectors. I hope that the increase in fuel pressure will mean I don't have to change the 390cc stock ones until I change turbos.

Blow Off Valve, the stock one is designed to leak air as a safety feature, I didn't want this at all so I've gone for a replacement.

Autotrans Oil Cooler, the auto boxes are crap, I figure with a cooler it might live for another 6 months or so before I change to an EVO 8 6 speed manual :D

And now for the grand finale, an Autronic SM4 full ECU that lets me remove the MAF, run on a wideband sensor for the engine, and because I have a computer running through the MMCS screen, I'll have a virtual dashboard on the MMCS screen that will look something like this: http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14052

An important mod which I'm not doing at this stage is a phenolic inlet manifold gasket. The stock one gets very hot, up to 70C in traffic, and I do want to get one, I just haven't got around to ordering one from RPW yet. In a couple of months I'll get one installed with 2 EGT gauges, one for each bank, 2x AFR for each bank of cylinders, and hopefully the EVO 8 6 speed gearbox.

[zentac]

but when is it going to be finished I want one :(

[Funkstar]

Great thread this. Going straight into my favourites for ongoing and future reference.

Great posts Valmes, Zentac, Bradc. Just what a starter (n00b) like me needs. :thumbsup:

[bradc]

Zentac, they are having some issues with my gearbox and the SM4, but they are making up an extra loom on monday, i'll pm you with more details.

[valmes]

bradc, thank you for bringing up some important points! I did forget to mention about by pass valve replacement, crank vents (or oil catch tank), running MAFless... edited my post to add some of that.

One thing I really wouldn't recommend is using rising rate fuel pressure regulator.
It gives you non linear fuel pressure to boost ratio. So in a sense you will get something like this:

Vacum - 390cc,
0,3 bar - 410 cc,
0,6 bar - 430 cc,
0,9 bar - 460 cc .... and so on.

Now in order to adjust your fuel you will have to recalculate for different boost, but it is not the worst of it... usually rising rate means at least 1:2 raise, so lets calculate. If you are boosting lets say 1 bar you will have 2 bars increase in a fuel pressure that comes to:

3 bar - base, plus 2 bars from RRFPR = 5 bars (73,5 psi) FP at 1 bar of boost!!!

Wow... apart from injectors ( you can overflow them only so much... its recommended not to exceed 10-15% of a rated flow) you will be putting a lot of stress on your fuel pump and as you can see from here http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpumpguide.htm , the higher the pressure in the fuel rail (against which your fuel pump has to work) the less your fuel pump can supply, the more stressed your overflowing injectors will be!

So, IMHO, it is either AFPR with the linear output and raised base fuel pressure to allow a bit more flow and timing from your stock injectors or better yet upgraded injectors (although AFPR is still a good thing to have).

[bradc]

Thats a long article, reading it now.

I know what you mean, but I thought that as long as you didn't go up too high that there wouldn't be much of a problem and that with a good ECU you should be able to get it all sorted. I didn't want to go for upgraded injectors at this stage, and I think that with a bit of an increase in pressure that I should be ok.

[valmes]

The link was a little bit off... it should end with a "htm" instead of "html". Corrected it.

Of course you can use RRAFPR, but it just doesn't give you anything over just AFPR... more headaches when you will try to get your injectors to work right and higher load to your fuel pump.

Pressure differential should be constant that way things are much easier.

Rewire your pump (that will allow for more volts, hence better flow) install AFPR, if everything works as was in my case – you will get those injectors flowing 438,5 cc, that should be enough until some point.

[zentac]

Zentac, they are having some issues with my gearbox and the SM4, but they are making up an extra loom on monday, i'll pm you with more details.

I take it yours is a Tip box then, they can be a pain in when you go fit after market ECU's as they need quite a few different signals from your original ECU.

[bradc]

Yeah it is. One possible option is leaving the old ecu in there and sending it signals such as speed and stuff, then sending that to the trans ecu. All the outputs from the stock ecu would be disconnected like the injectors and stuff. If it really won't work then I guess it will be evo8 6 speed time for me :)

[You See]

You wouldn't have that problem if you had a real gearbox in the first place! :P

[zentac]

Yeah it is. One possible option is leaving the old ecu in there and sending it signals such as speed and stuff, then sending that to the trans ecu. All the outputs from the stock ecu would be disconnected like the injectors and stuff. If it really won't work then I guess it will be evo8 6 speed time for me :)

I think thats the way they got round it with the EVO GTA overhere.

[bradc]

Richard, any chance you could post some links up? It's the main thing that is stopping me at the moment

[zentac]

no links just going on what Ive heard. Post up on the MLR www.lancerregister.com Im sure someone will be able to tell you on there as the main Autronics dealers in the UK use that site.

[bradc]

will do :)

[Eagleton]

Im currently doing some mods on my VR4, but I do have a company doing it for me, for the first time.

Allrighty, so the setup is basically:

2 TD04´s from 3000GT
Haltech E8 standalone ECU
Bigger injectors
Modified fuelrail
Custom intake manifold
Wallbro 255 in-tank fuelpump
Blitz BOV kit including a bit of piping
Greddy sprakplugs
OS Giken clutch
Custom hardpipes for IC, airfilter etc
3" exhaust with custom downpipes and muffler
Relocation kit for the oilfilter with custom oilfeedings

The biggest problem right now is getting the Haltech system to play with the engine they tell me.
Here´s some pics:

http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f338/Eagleton/motor-1.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f338/Eagleton/motor1.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f338/Eagleton/motor2.jpg
http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f338/Eagleton/turbo3.jpg

[Eurospec]

Hello mate,

The garage who are working on your car phoned me about this a couple of days ago and i gave them some pointers. There cant be many vr4's in stockholm with a haltech and having problems with the timing pick up!

The issue they will be having is the halltech ecu probably wont understand the mitsubishi crank angle sensor set up.

If it cant be configured to work on hall effect crank angle, then convert over to ford, and use a cossie trigger wheel. Pretty much all the ecu's understand that.

Cheers,

Ben.

[Eagleton]

yeapp, that´s my car.

That would be a solution to the problem. Dont know if the triggerwheel from a cossie would fit though. Haltech said that their software could handle a 3000GT´s triggerwheel so if haltech could modify the software to a VR4 signal, that would be great, dont know whats the most easy way to go. Anyways, the guys working on the car seem to know what they are doing.

[zentac]

we had exactly the same problem with Autronic ECU in the end we cut the trigger wheel down from a 3 lug to a 1 lug which solved our problems. I believe you have to do the same to put Autronics on a GTO (GT3000) as well.

[Eagleton]

Richard, do you have any pics of how you did this? Did you use the GTO triggerwheel or did you replace it with something else? Is the FTO and the VR4 using the same engine?

EDIT: Looked on your website, lots of usefull info there!

[zentac]

my FTO has a VR4 engine, (the FTO engine is very similar) we used the VR4 triggerwheel, unfortunatley I dont have any pictures of it, but if you look at the triggerwheel you see what I mean it has 3 big lugs on it, we chopped those off and set the timing up using the one remaining lug.