New Toy

[colVR4]

Not bad for £80 :2thumbsup

Didn't come with instruction manual, but there are loads on the web so it shouldn't be too much bother....I hope!! :lost:

[Funkstar]

Great price Col. Good find. Was that a fleabay special. Looks brand new.

[conaboy]

Good find at that price, got one myself sitting on my shelf:thinking:

Just need to get it fitted and mapped!

Keep us posted of the results when its installed, got high hopes for mine:scholar:

[zentac]

I should be removing mine this week, so will have one to sell

[colVR4]

Yup, fleabay special. Bought it from a guy in Japan, only took 5 days to get here from end of auction.

[ritch_w]

showing my ignorance here - but what does it do / what will it do for performance?

[colVR4]

All it will do it sort out the fuelling. It allows for + or - 50% changes at 500 rpm intervals. If you don't set it up properly it can do some serious damage to the engine with leaning out too much, so I am going to get it set up by a garage near me who have wideband o2 sensors and the like.

It also will prevent fuel cut when a boost controller is fitted by sorting out the fuelling with higher boost levels.

[ritch_w]

will it also help with economy then? if the mixture is leaned out a bit (where overly rich) or am i being really thick now?

[colVR4]

It should help with the fuel economy, but it won't make a staggering amount of difference because it will only change the fuelling when it is in open-loop (or is that closed-loop) operation, i.e. when you have got your foot hard on the gas.

When you are just idling along you are using the closed-loop AFR (air-fuel ratio) which is why you get better economy if you are staying at a steady speed on the motorway than if you are accelerating and decelerating through a built up area (someone correct me here if I am wrong please :) )

So, this SHOULD help me with my fuel-economy because I do very few motorway miles and regularly get less than 22 mpg.

[Wodjno]

So, this SHOULD help me with my fuel-economy because I do very few motorway miles and regularly get less than 22 mpg.

Me 2 !! I have owned my car 32months and have never obtained 22mpg.. Normally average 15mpg :happy:
Not sure about the SAFC's ability's as i have never read up on them. But if you have no facility to change the AFR's at different throttle positions, then you are correct that it will only increase you fuel economy and increase your power at WOT. :happy:

[colVR4]

It can alter the AFR's at 8 different points in the throttle band (0 - 7000 rpm) at 500 rpm intervals, + or - 50%. So it should smooth out the whole AFR curve not just WOT, but it does have a function to just look at closed-loop and open-loop functioning as well (I have read the manual now and understand it a bit better so ignore my last).

It can also prevent engine stalling on deceleration, which happens with VTA dump valves where the air does not recirc to the MAF.

I have the installation instructions and it all looks relatively simple to install. Just need a bit of playing with it to set it up. Does anyone have one already fitted who can...ahem....lend me the settings that they have so that I have a rough starting point?

[colVR4]

And here they are...

Mitsubishi Legnum listed!!

[Wodjno]

Col .. A quick look at the manual and as you say you can alter fuelling at different rpm points and 8 TPS points which means you should be able to get a reasonable fuel map curve :happy:

As for the anti stall, from what i have read it says it is able to do this on hot wire systems and as ours is a Karman Vortex system this will not be possible. Maybe further in the manual it may say something different :inquisiti
All in all a good purchase for basic AFR tuning :2thumbsup

[colVR4]

Problemo numero uno.....

Just took off the passenger side panel-thingy to look at the ECU connectors to start matching them up with the diagrams on the site....it ain't the same!!!

My ECU has only three plugs, not four as shown in the diagram!!! Whatsappenin?? It resembles the Mitsubishi 2-a, not the Mitsubishi 3-a in the diagrams on page 22 of the pdf file above, but the diagrams list the VR4 as having the 3-a ECU!!! Below it is a yellow plug that I assume goes in to the SRS ECU.

Am I just being unusually dumb, even for me, or do the facelift cars have a different ECU....or is it just my car??? The plugs are 26p, 16p and 22p (no 12p in between).

HELP!!

[Wodjno]

Problemo numero uno.....

Just took off the passenger side panel-thingy to look at the ECU connectors to start matching them up with the diagrams on the site....it ain't the same!!!

My ECU has only three plugs, not four as shown in the diagram!!! Whatsappenin?? It resembles the Mitsubishi 2-a, not the Mitsubishi 3-a in the diagrams on page 22 of the pdf file above, but the diagrams list the VR4 as having the 3-a ECU!!! Below it is a yellow plug that I assume goes in to the SRS ECU.

Am I just being unusually dumb, even for me, or do the facelift cars have a different ECU....or is it just my car??? The plugs are 26p, 16p and 22p (no 12p in between).

HELP!!


There are 2 ECU's there Col.. The top 1 has 4 plugs (green) this is the ECU you require.. The bottom 1 has 3 plugs(blue) this is the Gearbox ECU :inquisiti

[colVR4]

I could only see the one ECU so I assumed that was the one I needed. I didn't notice another one so it must be hidden out of site above it. Thanks for the info

[Kieran]

Do as Glenn says and you should be okay - but beware that on the UK-spec cars (non-VR-4), the ECU did change from a 4-block to a 3-block connector. The pre-facelifts were a 4-block, Hordak was a 3-block.

Not sure if this rule applies to the VR-4 or not, but might be worth bearing in mind.:thinking:

[zentac]

Do as Glenn says and you should be okay - but beware that on the UK-spec cars (non-VR-4), the ECU did change from a 4-block to a 3-block connector. The pre-facelifts were a 4-block, Hordak was a 3-block.

Not sure if this rule applies to the VR-4 or not, but might be worth bearing in mind.:thinking:

It cant do cant it as a number of people (me included) have plugged facelift ECU's into pre facelift auto's. Mine was a 1996 now its a 1999 ECU, for the extra bhp and to get rid of that horrible flat spot.

[Wodjno]

It cant do cant it as a number of people (me included) have plugged facelift ECU's into pre facelift auto's. Mine was a 1996 now its a 1999 ECU, for the extra bhp and to get rid of that horrible flat spot.

I agree with you Richard ! Otherwise why would peeps be able just to swap over the ecu's.. Even the V6 has 4 plugs, although the pinouts are different :inquisiti

[colVR4]

Right, I'm going outside with my camera....I may be some time!!!!

[Wodjno]

See Here:


http://homepage.mac.com/rgdavies2000/.Pictures/Mitsubishi_Manuals/52_Interior_&_SRS.pdf

[colVR4]

Raining :(

Will check it out later.

[Wodjno]

Raining :(

Will check it out later.

Still Raining :inquisiti

[colVR4]

No, dark now

[Wodjno]

No, dark now

Still Dark :inquisiti

[colVR4]

No, but its a Sunday...and a bank holiday sunday as well. Do you think I get the chance to even LOOK at my car today????

[OSiRiS]

Hey guys.

I'm not sure if you guys have caught on, but I have done a few articles and basically did the whole 101 on how to set these up in VR4s etc.

Here is the link in case you haven't seen it yet:
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13460

[Axeboy]

How has it been?

much difference?

[OSiRiS]

colVR4, use the diagrams that I sourced in the thread that I posted a link to. That is the way I setup my S-AFC and it works perfectly fine.

[Wodjno]

No, but its a Sunday...and a bank holiday sunday as well. Do you think I get the chance to even LOOK at my car today????

It's Monday now, and it ain't raining :inquisiti Although it is Dark :2thumbsup

[The Vee]

It's Monday now, and it ain't raining :inquisiti Although it is Dark :2thumbsup

And if he's got any sense (unlike us) he's cutting ZZZZZZZZZZ's - so unfair

[Wodjno]

And if he's got any sense (unlike us) he's cutting ZZZZZZZZZZ's - so unfair

£££££££££££££££££££££££££ £££££££££££££££££££££££££ £££££££££££££££££££££££££ £££££££££££££££££££££££££ £££££££££££££££££££££££££ £££££££££££££££££££££££££ £££££££££££££££££££££££££ £££££££££££££££££££££££££ £££££££££££££££££££££££££ £££££££££££££££££££££££££ £££££££££££££££££££££££££ £££££££££££££££££££££££££ £££££££££££££££££££££££££

[colVR4]

Do you guys ever sleep????

Thanks for the tip Osiris, I have seen the thread and have been following the instructions. I just got a bit confused with which ECU was which as initially mine looked like a three plug rather than the four plug shown in your thread.

It turns out that it may be that I was looking at the wrong one!!!!

[OSiRiS]

Yup. There are two things there that may seem to be an ECU.

From memory, it is the top one that you need.

[colVR4]

Cracked open the toolbox and plugged in the soldering iron.....

I thought 'what the hell, I'll give it a go', even though I haven't done any soldering since I was about 12 /help

I took off all the lower trim from the passenger side, and then decided to take it all off from the drivers side too to get more access. It straight-forward enough, just a few screws holding it all together. On the drivers side you will have to remove all the trim from under the steering wheels before you can get the side trim off.

There are two hidden screws on the trim under the steering wheel, one in the fag holder on the far right and one under the switches for the fog lights, windscreen wiper heater, etc. You will also have to remove the bonnet release catch (two screws)

This gave me access to the ECU. There are three boxes in total that I could see. The bottom box with the yellow connector is the SRS ECU, the middle box with three connectors is the gearbox ECU (I now know) and the top box with four connectors is the engine ECU.

REMEMBER TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELSE (I nearly forgot) /pan

To allow me to get the connectors out a bit easier I took out the bolts holding it down. This allowed me to wiggle it around until I could get the connectors out.

With the wiring diagram of the ECU it is a fairly easy job of locating the right wires and trimming a bit off them to reveal some wire to solder you connections too. The only wire you should have to cut is the one that sends the airflow signal. I didn't use the little bullet connectors provided, I just soldered everything to be on the safe side.

Taped it all up, bunged the trim back on, reconnected the battery and followed the instructions for setting it up (simply switch on ignition, set 6 cyl, throttle arrow up and type to Karmann). Then I started the engine!!

It is all set at +- 0.00% at the moment so it is just using the cars map. I am going to get it professionally tuned at a local garage who only charge £100.
Just need to decide where I am going to fix it now!! :afro:

[OSiRiS]

Nicely done :)

[colVR4]

Thanks. :D

[pezza]

Nice One Col..

Can be a real sod squeezing shoulders in the footwell to get a good grip on the ECU plugs.. mine were a real sod to get out!

Where are you getting it tuned Col?

[colVR4]

The guys at DME Motorsport on the Leyland Trading Estate in Wellingborough have offered to do it. They are a licenced D1 drift team and know a lot about this kind of stuff. I may be getting a complete stainless exhaust from them for less than £500 as well.

I will let you know how it goes. I seem to remember that Big Dave reduced his fuelling by over 20% to get reasonable AFR readings.

[OSiRiS]

I will let you know how it goes. I seem to remember that Big Dave reduced his fuelling by over 20% to get reasonable AFR readings.

Can you find the documentation on that please?

[colVR4]

Read this thread for more info

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10612&highlight=air+fuel+ratio

[colVR4]

I had a play tonight and set the correction at -5% from 3500 to 6500 rpm at 10% throttle and -10% from 3500 to 6500 rpm above 50% throttle.

Then went on the my 'private' test track and recorded a best 0-60 of 6.13. That beats my previous best of 6.38 on the standard set-up. Could just be different fuel loads, ambient temperature, etc but it definately doesn't feel as 'swamped' when you stamp on the pedal as it used to...if you know what I mean.

Not going to play any more until I either get a way of monitoring the AFR myself or I get it professionally set up, don't want things to go bang!!!!

Just need the all important boost controller now to really up the power.

[Kieran]

Just need the all important boost controller now to really up the power.

If you're getting a BC too, then wait untill that's fitted and set up before you meddle with the fuel maps.... Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but the S-AFC can't 'see' boost?:inquisiti

[OSiRiS]

It can't see boost.

[colVR4]

I am going to look in to getting a wideband 02 sensor and some logging hardware. If I can monitor the AFR accurately, there is no reason why I can't set the thing up myself.

[OSiRiS]

Ask Kenneth. He's done it :)

[Kenneth]

I will let you know how it goes. I seem to remember that Big Dave reduced his fuelling by over 20% to get reasonable AFR readings.

After reading the dyno information and reading a bit about different peoples' experiances, I believe this could be a by-product of the intake setup that BDA was using. This would also help explain OSiRiS' fuel problems, which are the same as Andrew had (previous owner of the CAI that OSiRiS has in his car)

If I were you, I would put the AFC back to 0 at all points and not go any further until you have a wideband setup to check your fuel.
I am running my car on an LC-1 wideband O2 controller, it is fairly easy to setup and log. Unfortunatly I don't believe you can get the RPM signal to show on the graph using the LC-1 software... I use the MAP ECU to do my logging.

The AFC should be fairly easy to setup once you are able to monitor RPM and AFR. Just remember to make small changes first to make sure you dont blow up your engine.

[OSiRiS]

Food for thought :)

As for my problems, what problems? LOL

The Legnum is reserved for "daily driving & shows" and the Lancer RS for "racing & performance"

:D

[Kenneth]

As for my problems, what problems? LOL



Do you really want me to say? :inquisiti

Well, 130kW or so would be a bit of a problem in my book... and the fact that your AFR was so rich they couldn't read it :P

[colVR4]

Good point about the setting up of the AFC. I have reset everything back to 0 for the very reason that you state. Now that I know where the RPM and throttle signals are on the ECU, is there a product on the market that can monitor the AFR, throttle position and RPM?

[Wodjno]

Innovate LM-1 connected to an LMA-2.

[OSiRiS]

Do you really want me to say? :inquisiti

Well, 130kW or so would be a bit of a problem in my book... and the fact that your AFR was so rich they couldn't read it :P

lol yea true hehe I'm just not going to spend anymore money on the Legnum...