My car has lost its bling factor but....

[caishanvr4]

Gained stealth with the new enkie,s and brembo,s. The look is growing on me very slowly.The brakes aint up to the standard i thought they should be /Hmmm nowhere near as responsive as my last brake set up. Maybe a full bleed with motul brake fluid would help.Ive noticed the ride is more comfortable dropping down to 17's over speed bumps and potholes but i prefer the harder ride tbh , just feels like ive more control over handling, maybe some shocks would help.These are just my observations since the enkie's and brembo's went on, sorry to ramble /nag

[Brunty]

I see what you mean about the bling! factor - but I think that your set up looks great, surprised to hear your thoughts on the brakes.

Car looks really nice.

[caishanvr4]

I see what you mean about the bling! factor - but I think that your set up looks great, surprised to hear your thoughts on the brakes.

Car looks really nice.

Why thank you kind sir :happy:
Im just hoping the brakes will be better after a full bleed. If not brembo's and enkie's could be up for the highest bidder ;)

[richy rich]

Im just hoping the brakes will be better after a full bleed.
have you done the braided hoses

[WildCards]

Have the pads been bedded in Paul? Or if they're used jobbys cou;ld they be glazed?

I like the wheels BTW :2thumbsup

[caishanvr4]

have you done the braided hoses

The hoses are the one's bought from polar

[caishanvr4]

Have the pads been bedded in Paul? Or if they're used jobbys cou;ld they be glazed?

I like the wheels BTW :2thumbsup

Yep wheels same as yours innit :happy:
The pads are used jobbys from www.japperformanceparts.co.uk
What is glazed :inquisiti

[WildCards]

Have a read of this when you've got time. it's for motorbikes, but most of the principles are valid for cars:

Pad Fade
Pad fade occurs for several reasons. All friction material (the materials brake pads are made of) has a coefficient of friction curve over temperature. Friction materials have an optimal working temperature where the coefficient of friction is the highest. Sometimes you can use the brakes so hard that you get the temperature over the point of maximum friction to where the coefficient of friction curve starts to decline.

The mechanics of this decline in the coefficient of friction are varied. At a certain temperature, certain elements of the pad can melt or smear causing a lubrication effect, this is the classic glazed pad. Usually the organic binder resin starts to go first, then even the metallic elements of the friction material can start to melt. At really high temperatures the friction material starts to vaporize and the pad can slide on a layer of vaporized metal and friction material which acts like a lubricant. Pad fade is felt on a bike that still has a firm, 'non spongy' feeling brake lever that won’t stop even if you are squeezing as hard as you can. Usually it builds somewhat slowly giving you time to compensate for it but some friction materials have a sudden drop off of friction when the heat is put on them resulting in sudden dangerous fade.

Green Fade
This is perhaps the most dangerous type of fade. Green fade is a type of fade that manifests itself on brand new brake pads. Brake pads are usually made of different types of heat resistant materials bound together with a phenolic resin binder. These are thermosetting plastic resins with a high heat resistance. On a new brake pad, these resins will cure when used hard on their first few heat cycles. The new pad can hydroplane on this layer of excreted gas. Green fade is dangerous because many people assume that new brakes are perfect and can be used hard right off the bat. Green fade typically will occur much earlier than normal fade so it can catch a rider that is used to a certain bikes characteristics unaware. Typically the onset of green fade is rather sudden, further increasing the danger factor. Some teams have a new pads warning sticker that they place on the top yoke to inform the rider to be careful on the first few laps.

Green fade can be prevented by bedding in the pads correctly. This is a simple procedure to boil off the resins and break in the pads under controlled conditions which has been explained below - Reducing Green Fade

Reducing Pad Fade
Pad fade is easily reduced by getting pads with a higher coefficient of friction at higher temperatures. On most bikes the stock pads, genuine Nissin, are remarkably good but in our experience Ferodo Brake Pads ( as used by most Isle Of Man TT competitors since 1924 and also by Duke, Agostini, Surtees, Sheene, Lawson, Dunlop, Fogarty..) have a great range of pads available for most motorcycles. They offer Platinum Organic, SinterGrip and Racing CP911 (Strictly for Track Use Only)

Reducing Green Fade
The way to eliminate green fade is to properly bed or break in your pads before you have to use them hard. The key is to get rid of the volatile elements of the binder resin without overheating or glazing the pad. Ever seen your brakes smoke ? - That smelly stuff is the volatile resins being cooked out of your pads. Bedded pads will not smoke very easily.

It is better to bed new pads in on older discs. Older discs are seasoned and more dimensionally stable making them less likely to warp or crack while bedding. Older discs for some reason are less likely to glaze new pads. You should always run a new rotor in with bedded pads also for the same reasons.

When replacing your pads, you could lightly sand your discs with an electric drill and a 220 grit sanding disc, putting a light cross hatch pattern on them. This helps break the glaze on the disc and aides in bedding the new pads quickly. Install your new pads and go for your bedding run. Before making the first stop after changing pads pump the brake lever carefully before you really need to stop. The pistons are fully retracted into the caliper when you change the pads and the lever will feel long at the first brake application.

When bedding in the pads, be very careful as the brakes will not work at their optimum until fully bedded in...

Harder, high temperature pads usually have an overall lower coefficient of friction even when they are in their ideal operating temperature. Because of this you can expect having to pull on the brake lever much harder with them installed unless you go to a bigger brake system with more pad area. Softer, lower temperature pads generally have more initial bite and require less lever effort but they will fade much more quickly.

Through proper selection of brake pad material and careful bedding in you should be able to reduce pad fade to a manageable level except in the most extreme racing conditions.

Excerpts from www.h-e-l.co.uk (http://www.h-e-l.co.uk/HEL_Performance_Motorcycle_Brake_Lines_Brake_Docto r_Brake_Fade.htm)

[richy rich]

again steve you come up will no info for peaple to use.
/notworthy /Banana /Hyper /GJ

[WildCards]

again steve you come up will no info for peaple to use.
/notworthy /Banana /Hyper /GJ

Hey? - you dissin my info /pan It's not like i've got anything better to do while at work you know /Grrr And I thought you were an alright bloke :evilgrin:

[richy rich]

/haz

[bradc]

Caishan, have you noticed that the car acclerates a little bit quicker with 17's instead of 18's?

[caishanvr4]

Caishan, have you noticed that the car acclerates a little bit quicker with 17's instead of 18's?

tbh i cant really tell the difference at the moment as my car is still nursing an air leak from somewhere so ive been driving more sedately of late. One thing i have noticed is that when im reversing and i brake i hear a SQEEEEAL which is quite annoying as i have the reverse beeps going at the same time /Grrr

[bradc]

The reason I ask is that You See (who also has a black manual facelift type v) has changed from 17x7 to 18x8 mags and noticed that his car felt quite a bit slower with them on.

[You See]

That's why i'm after some lightweight 17's....but maybe after ;)

[Rilla]

just to add my 2 penneths worth, ap racing calipers all day long for my money, better compared to brembo's, only time i have ever liked a set of brembos was on a bike not a car, i found brembos to be lackin in bite and feedback, sometime bordering on vauge performance.

[Nick Mann]

Four pot brembos, discs, pads, 2 pots for the rear, discs, pads, £500. AP 6 pots for the front, discs, pads, standard rears, roughly 3 times the price. Sorry - but for those of us on limited budgets with a facelift car, it's a no-brainer!!

[Rilla]

fair point well made, but in my defence, i was making a gerneral observation, i know ap calipers cost the earth, but we can dream cant we :p lol

[Wodjno]

Paul .. Totally agree with you on the loss of thte bling factor..

Not trying to be horrible, but it's just another VR4 with EVO wheels on now :thinking:

If my brembo's don't fit behind my current wheels then i will be staying with the standard brakes :inquisiti

[MR202]

:2thumbsup :2thumbsup :2thumbsup


BREMBO!!! Very Good!!!