V6-24 Oil grade

[mart0398]

Could someone with an owners manual tell me what is says the recommended oil grade for a non turbo v6 is? and how much does it take?

Also what is the non 4wd manual gearbox's oil grade and capacity?

Thanks.

[Kieran]

10w/40 Semi-Synthetic is a minimum for good all-round protection. If you're feeling flush then a 5W/40 full synthetic is highly recommended. I think Capacity is about 4.5 litres, but can't remember exactly. I know I always used to get a bit left over when I used to do Hordak.

As for gearbox - a GL-4 based 75w/90 gear oil is needed. Don't be tempted to 'upgrade' the fluid to some GL-5 stuff... The friction modifiers in GL-5 don't allow the syncromesh 'bite' properly.

And brands?

My ONLY recommendation for lubricants these days is Amsoil. Search the site and you'll soon see why this is.:happy:

And a handy website is here:

http://www.performanceoilsltd.co.uk/onlinestore.html

[amsoil]

As the man said above; spot on. Code for the engine oil is AFL and for the box the new MTG:2thumbsup

[I-S]

You can also use amsoil's 10W40 AMO, which is what I've used in my 4-cylinder. I was a little nervous about using a thinner oil in an engine with over 100k miles on it, so stuck with the mitsubishi recommendation for UK temperature range (ie 10W40).

[Opie Oils]

You pays yor money and takes your choice.

A decent 5w-40 is what we recommend for the engine.

I also sell Amsoil http://www.opieoils.co.uk but would say that there are plenty of decent European oils that are as good and in some cases better depending on application that it is intended for.

Not knocking Amsoil, it's good and that's why we sell it but it does not sell in the numbers of the likes of Silkolene Pro and Motul 300V or 8100 which I consider based on chemical analysis to be in the same league quality wise.

They are all proper fully synthetics, not hydrocracked ones and as such will perform to high standards as evidenced by the price you pay.

Cheers
Simon

[Kieran]

....but would say that there are plenty of decent European oils that are as good and in some cases better depending on application that it is intended for.


Prove it! Let's see the results!/pan

[Paul Beazer]

Erm i've just 0/40w Mobil 1 in my V6-24. Its got 96,000 on the clock, im not gonna bugger it up am i?:speechles
I did put some engine flush in with the old oil, then drained it (yuk!)and ran some flushing oil through it as well (not quite as yuk).

Please tell me it'll be ok!

[Opie Oils]

Erm i've just 0/40w Mobil 1 in my V6-24. Its got 96,000 on the clock, im not gonna bugger it up am i?:speechles
I did put some engine flush in with the old oil, then drained it (yuk!)and ran some flushing oil through it as well (not quite as yuk).

Please tell me it'll be ok!

It should be fine, not sure I would have flushed it though.

Cheers
Simon

[Opie Oils]

Prove it! Let's see the results!/pan

I guess you use the Amsoil then.

Good for you, I did not say there was anything wrong with it.

Take a look at the HTHS and Noack numbers for yourself and you will see that there are in fact many decent oils out there, there is also a load of tosh as well, stick to proper pao or pao/ester based oils and you will be using the best there is. Just avoid the petroleum based ones if you want a decent one.

Cheers
Simon

[Paul Beazer]

It should be fine, not sure I would have flushed it though.

Cheers
Simon

Thanks for the reply Simon.
Why? I thought the idea was to get as much crap out of the engine before putting clean oil in it, or is the flushing going to remove stuff that doesnt need to be removed?

[I-S]

The traditional worry is that flushing will remove deposits that have built up on the valve rings that are doing the job of sealing the pistons now that the engine has some wear on it.

I flushed mine out at 101600 miles when I changed to amsoil, and it's now at 105500 without problems. Not a long stretch I know, but how quickly would problems show up?

[Opie Oils]

Spot the flushes are usually a mix of kerosene and paraffin, these just over clean the engine, and can remove deposits made by the bedding in process.

A good quality oil will have all the detergents and cleaning bits and bots needed to keep the engine tip top.

Cheers

Simon

[I-S]

Oh, I used a flushing oil, rather than one of the canned flushes that you add to the existing oil. Are these different?

[Paul Beazer]

I did both. Can of wynns engine flush to existing (old) oil to loosen all the crud then flushing oil to rinse out. It really did come out manky both times, so im hoping its just old crud thats built up over 6 years.
Certainly running smoothly and quietly since i did it, with no obvious ill effects, touch wood! Just wanted to get rid of as many potential contaminants before adding the new stuff.
Anyone have any opionions / experience with Mobil 1? :inquisiti I have a friend who swears by it. I know Amsoil is probably better, but the oil change was a knida spur of the moment thing last friday.
If nothing else, it served to p!ss my @rsehole neighbour off, so money well spent in my evil opinion!:iloveyou:

[Opie Oils]

There is nothing wrong with Mobil1, it's a perfectly good quality oil.

There are better ones out there more suited to track and highly modded cars but for road use, Mobil1 is certainly better than 90% of the stuff on the shelves which is cheap and hydrocracked.

Cheers
Simon

[Paul Beazer]

Thats a relief, i dont believe in using cheap oils. Most of my use is local pottering with the occasional road blast when i get the chance. Only use the car 2 or 3 times a week. So oil should last for a while.