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orionn2o
09-07-2006, 11:19 AM
Hi guys,

ABout 3 weeks into VR4 ownership and I thinking I have a problem, whilst braking on the motorway at about 80mph I get vibration which is fed back to the steering wheel.

And it sounds horrible.


The brake seem fine at lower speeds and don't cause any problems.


Any thoughts???

BraindG
09-07-2006, 12:50 PM
Im assuming you still have original discs and pads? It sounds like you do.

The Standard VR4 has the worst braking system ever :) - a cheap solution to resolvethis would be national 8 groove discs, and ferodo pads. Plenty of info on them if you use the search funtion.

psbarham
09-07-2006, 12:55 PM
Im assuming you still have original discs and pads? It sounds like you do.

The Standard VR4 has the worst braking system ever :) - a cheap solution to resolvethis would be national 8 groove discs, and ferodo pads. Plenty of info on them if you use the search funtion.
nah hes got smokin's old motor , i fitted red stuff pads and brembo discs for him

BraindG
09-07-2006, 12:57 PM
oh, were they bedded in ok?

psbarham
09-07-2006, 01:08 PM
oh, were they bedded in ok?
yup from what i can gather he was quite religous about bedding them in , but that was a year ago

orionn2o
09-07-2006, 02:49 PM
so what do you reckon it could be??

I'm glad you lot know more about my car than I do! !

SHould these brakes go wrong inside a year??

colVR4
09-07-2006, 02:49 PM
I have a full Brembo setup with EBC disks and pads and I started to have the same problems. Turns out that it is all tied in with my REALLY worn track rod ends that I am getting fixed on Tuesday. Its worth checking out!!

orionn2o
09-07-2006, 02:57 PM
really? where are you getting them checked?>?

Just at a local garage ? Or a proper ralliart/ power engineering type place??

colVR4
09-07-2006, 03:03 PM
Had them checked by a local Mitsubishi garage who confirmed what I already knew about the track rod ends. I also mentioned the braking issue and they said that it is probably due to the state of the them.

They have also told me that the lower ball joints are showing signs of wear. The car has done 53k miles so I was kinda expecting to have to do a few of these jobs. Its all under warranty with WarrantyDirect so it will only cost me the £25 excess.

orionn2o
09-07-2006, 03:18 PM
Hmmm... my car has slightly higher mileage than that but I'm wondering if I have the same probs. I have a mitsubishi garage at the top of my road so maybe its worth a trip up there .

Suppose its better to get that checked before I worry about spending on new disks and pads!

colVR4
09-07-2006, 03:25 PM
I always get the car checked out before I buy bits for it. On my last car I nearly bought a whole new aircon unit which was going to cost me £100s until I did a bit of investigating and found it was a couple of shims that needed replacing for the cost of £14.

orionn2o
09-07-2006, 03:36 PM
eek thats a lucky one!

I presume they charge you a happy premium to just look under the car and tell you its broken??

colVR4
09-07-2006, 04:53 PM
My local mitsi garage don't usually charge me anything, as long as I get the work done there, which I don't mind anyway because the warranty pays for it.

Rikki
10-07-2006, 09:48 AM
I have a full Brembo setup with EBC disks and pads and I started to have the same problems. Turns out that it is all tied in with my REALLY worn track rod ends that I am getting fixed on Tuesday. Its worth checking out!!

I have heard reports related to other cars that the Brembo disc is too soft for the ceramic Red Stuff. Might also be the problem :thinking:

bungle
20-08-2015, 01:39 PM
/Hijack Hi I'm experiencing similar problems. I recently changed my front pads and have since been experiencing some nasty vibration at high speed. I will get the rod ends checked but there's a couple of things in noticed that I think could be related but I haven't got the mechanical knowledge to say whether they are related.
Firstly when removing the wheels If not iced that there is play in the discs, is this normal? Was thinking it is because the little grub screws are missing in the hub. I'm assuming that if these were there the discs would be more secure. Is this right?
And secondly the rear pads also need changing and the o/s one is slightly more worn than the other, I think the caliper is scraping on the disc, and the noise gets worse when turning left. Could either of these be the source of my problems as I never had this before the pad change?
And also could anyone tell me if the rear pads are as straight forward to change as the front or do they require winding back. Also forgot to mention the brakes are brembos. Thanks

Davezj
20-08-2015, 05:29 PM
rear brembos pads are fitted in the same way as the front.

the grub screws in the disks make no difference as the wheel nut hold the wheel to the disk and then the disk to the hub.

personally i would remove the disk and clean the hub surface and the rear of the disk where it touches the hub, and the front of the disk where it touches the back of the wheel. it is free and easy thing to do, any trapped grit, rust dirt will slightly unbalance the disk and create a little wobble.

i would also check all the pistons in the callipers move nice and free. so once the pads are out of one of the calipers get some old very warn pads or thin wood strips only as thick as the backing plate on the pads, and put it in the caliper then push the brak peddle. this will push the pistons out as far as they are ever going to travel and check is all pistons get pushed out and dont get stuck. then waggle the warn pads or wood strips out and see if the pistons can be moved by hand, pushing them back into the the caliper. pay close attention to what the other pistons do when you push on one piston, the other pistons should push out of the caliper as you push one piston back in, try each piston in turn and they should all be easy to move. the smaller pistions will move more than the larger ones as it shoud be purely down to displacement of the piston.
check each caliper in turn and check all the pistons movement.

if you find one of the pistons is stuffer than the others then this is probably the culprit for the wobble it is not releasing the pad off the disk surface when you lift off the brakes and that side of the disk can get a lot warmer than the other which can create a wobble.

then there is always the case of, you might have created a hot spot on the disk and burned a larger amount of pad material into one location. this occurs if you get the disks really hot and then come to a stop and hold the brakes on at a junction or a set of traffic lights. you can recover from the hotspot scenario by going through the bedding in process again, but this might take quite a while to do, with the disks getting red hot. you just have to ensure once you do the bedding in process do not come to a stop straight after you must carry in driving around after you complete the bedding in until the brakes have cooled down completely. so late night motorway with no other traffic on it is a good place/time to do the bedding in process.

you did do the bedding in process when you fitted the pads originally.

anyway i am woffling now but you get the gist of what i am saying.

bungle
20-08-2015, 05:39 PM
Cheers Davezj. Iv had all the pads out today and all the pistons seemed to be working Ok. Will have a check for the other things you mentioned tomorrow as I now seem to have developed a nasty knocking noise when turning left. So I will be investigating this. If recently had both rear bearing and drive shaft replaced and suspect this could be the issue. But I'm hoping it's something simpler.