Lowered? got camber issues? DONT FIX IT!

[Gly]

so today after 4 hours working on the car,

ive finally sorted my camber issuses (pending a wheel alignment)

REAR CAMBER FIX.

to fix the camber on the rear you need to space out the upper A-arm...

to do this you will need Eight (4 each side) 10mm x 1.25mm thread bolts about 30-35mm in lenght

and alot of oversized washers (i used some alloy flat bar i had lying around and cut to size and a 10.5mm hole drilled thru the center instead)

take you wheel off...

start by loosing all the 4 bolts that hold the a-arm to the car.

only remove one bolt at a time... others can be loose but must stay in.
i found the easiest order to add the spacers in was,

front most upper bolt,
front most lower bolt,
rear most upper bolt,
rear most lower bolt,

i added 6mm of spacer to each side... it appears to have given me around 1.5-2
positive camber... will confirm once ive had the alignment done again.

YOU WILL NOW NEED TO HAVE YOUR REAR GUARDS ROLLED.


FRONT CAMBER FIX.


now heres where the **** hits the fan... fixing the front camber issues...

i bought a kit to do this.. its just an bush with an offset hole that can be adjusted in and out to suit...
cost $280 per kit, kit only doz one side. ($560 to do both)
can adjust 0 - +1.5 degrees

ive attached a picture of what you get. (at the end of the post)

this is pretty basic to fit...

take you wheel off.
undo the nut that holds the hub carrier arm to the upper A-Arm.
let it drop.

now you need to undo the nuts that hold the a-arm to the car.
these are under the bonnet.

one each side of the strut tower.. one goes thru your strut brace hat? (the red thing)

once you have this off you can remove the factory bushes and replace with you new adjustable ones...

refit to you car.

now i had real bad camber.. so i set the kit to be max +1.5 degrees..

now here is the REAL problem...
with the kit set to max out (+1.5 degrees) and the car being so low..

once the car is down,
the other edge of the a-arm that surrounds the ball joint hits on the inside the the suspension tower ......

to solve this ive had to grind off at least 7mm of metal around the ball joint.

and it still hits over a very hard bump!

EXTRA COMMENTS.

so if you lower your car... either dont lower it so much.
or live with the camber problems.

at this stage i dont think grinding away the metal will be an issue.
but i wouldnt recommend it.

THERE IS A FULLY PICTURED GUIDE ON THE MEMBERS ONLY SECTION.

[Kieran]

Ooooh - useful information that is Gly. Thanks!

[Funkstar]

Nice write up Gly. Will keep that in mind.:thumbsup:

[BraindG]

Nice write up..

This may actually cure some of my issues

[bradc]

Nice write up, the rear camber sounds like something we can do in groups at the next workshop day :)

[Gly]

had another go at the front upper arms today...
took another couple of mil's of metal away,

and took the the inside of the strut tower with a small dome ended hammer.

now there is a flys fart amount of clearance allowing the arm to have full un interfeared travel to its highest point if need be,

now i just need my rear guards rolled, the alignment checked, and it should all be sweet.

[Gly]

Front Guide with pics
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=187837

Rear Guide with pics
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19221

[Kenneth]

Nice writeup dude :)

Could you post pics of the standard front thinggies that you took off? if they are fairly simple, might be able to get some made. (step dad being an engineer)

[Gly]

yep, will do tomorrow,

they are pretty basic, you could prob take out the rubber in the center of them and offset the hole yourself with that rubber nurothane stuff.

[Slimshady]

Hi Gly, and any other suspension gurus

Firstly, sorry to post / steel you’re most excellent thread
Secondly, I am no suspension engineer but would appreciate your advice
Thirdly, I have similar problems but more negative.
Fourthly, I love your threads on suspension – very very helpful.

If you are easily bored by techie things – this post is not for you – if you enjoy the challenge of comas then read on……..

History:
I have a V6 (not VR4) Galant sedan – I have removed the factory fitted suspension struts and springs and replaced them with VR4 replacements. The reason being, the V6 has very soft floppy suspension, US style, rather than a steering wheel you might as well fit a rudder to the back of the car.

I like a hard responsive drive, that’s why I replaced the suspension with VR4 kit, I have now found out that the fat VR4 weighs nearly ¼ ton more than the V6.

Bummer, now my car looks like a land rover, way way way too high and too much negitve camber as a result (top left).



Reading your thread you are after positive camber +1.5deg but when I read advice on other websites I always find that negative camber is better on the front, about 0.5deg.

What is the correct setup for our cars? My V6 is wearing very hard on the outer walls and I am considering purchasing lowering springs to correct the problem (positive camber – top right).

I am however unsure whether to mix V6 lowered springs (these (http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m14b26s829p0&tbv=APEX_LOWERING_SPRING_KITS_-Performance_Lowering_Spring_Kits_-_MITSUBISHI_-_GALANT_-_&&PHPSESSID=5683cf3f0ab233a1e1df0f2176b145ea#39;99-) or these (http://www.toys4cars.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=327_800_1070)) with VR4 struts

HELP!!!!!!


Slim

[Kenneth]

Gly is not after positive camber, but a postive camber adjustment to reduce the amount of negative camber.

From the sounds of things you have positive camber because the springs are to stiff.

You could use the V6 springs on the VR-4 struts without much issue, only problem may be that your shocks suffer due to the valving not being correct.

You could also get VR-4 lowering springs which would give you less height but you would probably have a bumpy ride, especially at high speed.

If it were me, I would use the V6 springs and see how that goes.

[Gly]

yep ken is correct, i had about 2.5 degrees of negitive camber up front.
and about 3 degrees on the rear prior to installing and adjusting the camber,

now i have -1 degree on the front and -0.6 on the rear.

now in my opinion i would be going with the VR4 Lowering springs.


i say this because i too only have a N/A V6 (but mines 4wd)

and i have VR4 Cusco Vancanza Coil overs installed...
i dont find the ride harsh at all.

ive also had V6 Shocks with VR4 Lowering springs (jamex)
found it to be a little soft

then i had vr4 shocks with vr4 lowering springs..
a little hard over some bumps... but wouldnt hurt you permanently :D


if you had the cash id look for some adjustable shocks from a vr4.

[bradc]

I would go with 40mm lowering springs from a VR-4 as well. The reason for your positive camber is because the car is too high, and the reason for Gly's negative camber was because his car is much lower than usual. You want to get your car to a similar height to a normal VR-4 (or perhaps a bit lower to look better)

[Slimshady]

Thanks again chaps – good advice as usual – now I will have to decide which ones to fit.

Slim