Wideband

[OSiRiS]

Where would I get one from? In NZ.

Really need to check out my air/fuel ratios.

I really don't want to have to goto a dyno everytime, ideally something like Kenneth's setup.

Thanks,
OSiRiS

[Wodjno]

Where would I get one from? In NZ.

Really need to check out my air/fuel ratios.

I really don't want to have to goto a dyno everytime, ideally something like Kenneth's setup.

Thanks,
OSiRiS

?? Ask Kenneth ??

Or if in a corner and you can't get out !!! Then give me a shout !! :vulcan:

[OSiRiS]

What can you do for me WODJNO?

[Gly]

sorry, on a differnt planet. ignor me

[Kenneth]

get hold of this trademe member: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Members/Listings.aspx?member=939375

About $450 I guess. well worth it though. The install is fairly straight forward too. you may get it slightly cheaper if you get it imported, but not enough to be worth the hassle... I looked into it for ages.

I also used MAPECU to log parameters. I have the MAPECU if you are interested in going that route too. can install, you would just need someone to tune it or you could use it for data logging.

[OSiRiS]

How much all up Kenneth for the same setup that you were using in your car?

[Kenneth]

How much all up Kenneth for the same setup that you were using in your car?

if you were to buy it new, you are looking at $1050 or thereabouts for the map-ecu and wideband

I looked up the LC-1 wideband controller and it looks like you can get them for $400 :) MAP-ECU is $650 new, but I may be willing to sell mine for $400

[OSiRiS]

I don't know what the steps are. And where to go. All I want is the logging capabilities that you had.

[Kenneth]

I don't know what the steps are. And where to go. All I want is the logging capabilities that you had.

Ok, if you want the setup I had you need the following

1) MAP-ECU
2) LC-1 Wideband controller

You should be able to find them using google.

I also did the install and setup myself.

I would advise installing the LC-1 first and get that running properly, then install the MAP-ECU.

I made a harness for the MAP-ECU that allowed me pull it out within minutes.

[OSiRiS]

Ok please forgive my lack of knowledge or ignorance.

From what I understand MAP-ECU is a complete replacement? standalone? ECU which allows me to adjust air/fuel ratio.

I have a S-AFC on a standard ECU. Is MAP-ECU really required here? I understand the S-AFC can provide a level of adjustment but obviously MAP-ECU would provide an even finer and tunable level of adjustment. Am I right here?

All I need is a way to monitor and datalog air/fuel ratio then use the S-AFC to make adjustments where needed.

Will this item do what I require?
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Performance/Electronics/auction-72957540.htm

[Kenneth]

Ok please forgive my lack of knowledge or ignorance.

From what I understand MAP-ECU is a complete replacement? standalone? ECU which allows me to adjust air/fuel ratio.

I have a S-AFC on a standard ECU. Is MAP-ECU really required here? I understand the S-AFC can provide a level of adjustment but obviously MAP-ECU would provide an even finer and tunable level of adjustment. Am I right here?

All I need is a way to monitor and datalog air/fuel ratio then use the S-AFC to make adjustments where needed.

Will this item do what I require?
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Performance/Electronics/auction-72957540.htm

Thats right... I forgot you had the S-AFC.
The MAP-ECU is not a complete replacement ECU. All it does is remove the MAF (that bit of plastic you have to connect up to the air filter/airbox)
Removing the MAF and going to MAP has some benefits and some costs.

first off, the MAF requires the air to be straight so that it can measure it properly. I believe this is why some modified intakes cause fueling issues. MAF also means that the air is measured before the turbo, so when you have a VTA BOV you can stall. also means that if you have a boost leak or blow a pipe, you cant drive the car.
with MAP this is not a problem as the air is sort of measured in the intake manifold.

downside to MAP is that if you change something that affects the airflow of your engine, you have to re-tune to get the correct fueling again.
MAF does not have this downside because it just measures more air and adds the fuel to compensate.

So, MAP-ECU takes the MAP, TPS and RPM figures and produces a signal that emulates the MAF which it sends to the ECU. (you also attach an external air temp sensor) because you can tune the MAP vs RPM grid figures you can tune th e AFR. This can be done at many points, much more flexible than the S-AFC... the cost of this of course is ease of tuning.

Yes, that LM-1 could be used for wideband logging. It is not something you can have permenantly in your car, and it costs more than the LC-1.
The LC-1 (which I had) is permenantly mounted in the car and replaces the standard narrow band sensor (it has a narrow band simulated output) and has 2 outputs, I used 1 for narrow band simulation and one for data-logging.

With the simulated narrow band, you can also trick the ECU into thinking that you have a different AFR than what you actually have. I had mine set to run 15.2 AFR closed loop rather than the standard 14.7.

This and the MAF mod were the main contributing factors to my power figures. Of course I could have done this without the MAP-ECU but the MAP-ECU let me do much more sophisticated data logging than what the LC-1 did (which just gave me AFR over time... good for min/max afr but not good to plot rpm also... i believe the LM-1 gives you more inputs, so you get better logging) which in turn kept me confident that my engine was not going to blow up any minute :)

[bradc]

"first off, the MAF requires the air to be straight so that it can measure it properly. I believe this is why some modified intakes cause fueling issues"

THAT is a very very important line, and I beleive it is why a lot of people with a cone/pod filter have ****ed up AFR's

imho for your car Osiris, converting it to a manual, installing a MAP ECU or getting your SAFC tuned by a pro will sort out all of your performance problems.

[OSiRiS]

So if I do purchase:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Performance/Electronics/auction-72957540.htm

It will give me the datalogging capabilities I require that will show me my air/fuel ratio?

[Kenneth]

So if I do purchase:
http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Performance/Electronics/auction-72957540.htm

It will give me the datalogging capabilities I require that will show me my air/fuel ratio?

I believe so. Why dont you use google and do some research on the LM-1? That way you will know if it suits what you want.

[OSiRiS]

I can get that LM-1 for $695. Is that cheap?

[VR4 MAD]

I can get that LM-1 for $695. Is that cheap?

You got that TradeMe "Fixed Price Offer" too then........../haz

/duh

[Kenneth]

I can get that LM-1 for $695. Is that cheap?

does it matter? its not about cheap, its about what you need and want in order to get the best out of your car.

You also take into consideration things like convenience etc. You may get it cheaper, but can you be bothered looking around or can you be bothered driving somewhere to pick up?

[d i c k i e s]

Overnight in NZ - NZ Couriers

[MunkyWrench]

i take it you did not alter ignition? I have been looking at options for a while, mainly replacement ecu + lambda sensor combos.

I have a carPC set up so once the car is tuned it'd really jsut be a neat trick/ show off thing, integrated to a degree in the UI i end up using for the carPC

are there gains to be had with altering ignition? I am looking somewhat long term, as the cars relatively stock at the moment but I do want to address various things.
I know the usual way is to get the mods done then get the tuning after.

[Kenneth]

i take it you did not alter ignition? I have been looking at options for a while, mainly replacement ecu + lambda sensor combos.

I have a carPC set up so once the car is tuned it'd really jsut be a neat trick/ show off thing, integrated to a degree in the UI i end up using for the carPC

are there gains to be had with altering ignition? I am looking somewhat long term, as the cars relatively stock at the moment but I do want to address various things.
I know the usual way is to get the mods done then get the tuning after.

I think you can get a fair bit out of these cars with tuning.

Not sure if you are addressing me, but I did not alter ignition on mine. I believe that the ECU takes fairly good care of this anyway, and as such you can probably leave it.

If you decide to fool the ECU by modifying air flow signals (to compensate for bigger injectors) then you may need to fiddle with timing, depending of course on just how big a change you make.

Personally my goal is to get it running nicely with a good tune on the standard ECU and then move on from there. That way you are reliable and have a good platform to move from.

Once there, (if you are doing it all yourself) move one piece at a time so that if something goes wrong, you know what you did.