Next Upgrade Help Please

[Spirit]

Okay here goes....

1: Have decided I am NOT going to fit NOS
2: Want more power so.....

Do I fit an aftermarket ECU or a boost controller ?

If I go down the boost controller line then which one

Apexi/Blitz/HKS

I see a few HKS EVC's for sale now but only the EVC3 or 4 - not a 5 INSERT INTO post VALUES (second hand). I can pick a EVC4 up for around £200 - will I be disadvantaged at all or is the 5 just more "fancy" in terms of the display/options etc ? Is it worth the extra dosh ?

Any advice you guys - particularly Mo and Dave with your recent exploits

Pete

[BraindG]

go for the boost controller Rhys has :D

Turbosmart E-Boost :D roketh!

[zedy1]

the apexi boost control is cool as f11ck and goes well with the aspexi rev/speed meter as you already have one great features too but a pain in the ass to set up correctly

see pic

[enigma]

Mo is right the APEXi is very very cool, it is not the easiest of things to set up......so many settings to play with! With settings comes control though! :D

Mine was £240 from the US and it rocks.......the turbosmart looks cool though!

[BraindG]

not only does the turbosmart look ok, its sick.. you can set boost levels per gear, for one.. from what ive heard its the dogs bollocks, nothing comes close for the time being... dont take my word.. try google :)

[SGHOM]

which comes first........ the chicken or the egg ?? :Ponder: boost controller, or ECU upgrade first. :Ponder: or does it not matter ? the reason I'm asking is my car [ when I get the exhaust/induction done ] is going to a specialist tuner. do I buy a boost controller, & then let them upgrade the ecu, or do let them upgrade the ecu ...etc......etc ?? :Ponder: :: :Ponder:

[zedy1]

Originally posted by interlec
which comes first........ the chicken or the egg ?? :Ponder: boost controller, or ECU upgrade first. :Ponder: or does it not matter ? the reason I'm asking is my car [ when I get the exhaust/induction done ] is going to a specialist tuner. do I buy a boost controller, & then let them upgrade the ecu, or do let them upgrade the ecu ...etc......etc ?? :Ponder: :: :Ponder:

dont think u need the boost cobtroler if u upgrade the ecu

[enigma]

I have to concur with Mo, if you get an ECU upgrade they should ask you how much boost you want! With a boost controller you take the chance of running the engine lean. The factory ECU will only be programmed with maps for boost up to say 11 psi, beyond this you rely on the O2 semsor working to increase the amount of fuel that is pumped in to the engine. The O2 sensor will only have a small authority over the fuel, say +/- 5%, once this is saturated engine goes lean and eventually meltdown occurs! Factory ECUs have some protection as they tend to run a little rich anyway, but push it to its limits and there will be tears! Personally I went for the boost controller as I am aware that the turbos only have a certain amount of puff and there is little chance of running of the top of the boost map at high RPM. The only real concern is the injectors not functioning or there not being enough fuel pressure from the pump. It seems from my experience and that of others that 14-15psi is safeish, 13-14psi is safe, and anything lower is for girls! :D

I see the only reason to get an ECU upgrade if you are after serious, and I mean 450BHP serious, power. Otherwise I think theer are better ways to spend the best part of £3000. INSERT INTO post VALUES (obviously factoring in new turbos, injectors, fuel pump, etc to take advantage of the capability of a new ECU)

My MR2 turbo was modified by and gained about 50BHP using a zener diode and a pen lid with a carefully calibrated hole in it. This cost about 40p and saw me good for 2+ years. A Superchip or similar, or even an ECU would have yielded the same result but left me £700 lighter in the pocket. Knowing that you are a Yorkshireman Derek I am hoping that I am making some sense. Far be if from me though to discourage you if you really want to see the right side of 500BHP, but be warned you will not be driving it often. Its all very well having huge power, but you will not be able to use it every day. Look at the fastest cars at the POD, how many of the 10 and 11 second cars were actually driven there? The SUMO and GT ART Skylines both arrived on trailers.

Thinking about it, I really think I should get in to the car tuning industry. Lots of money to be made from unsuspecting punters! :D I think my trouble is I like to share things, and I would feel far too guilty tking £500 from someone to install a 40p mod!

OK, that is the end of todays seminar........answers on a postcard.........errr sorry I mean questions!

;)

[zedy1]

Look at the fastest cars at the POD, how many of the 10 and 11 second cars were actually driven there? The SUMO and GT ART Skylines both arrived on trailers.


mine went back home on a recovery truck INSERT INTO post VALUES (saved £50.00 in fuel)

:D

[enigma]

I said the fast ones Mo!

:lolz:

[zedy1]

could you tell us why they arrive on trailors :Ponder:

[BraindG]

Originally posted by zedy1
could you tell us why they arrive on trailors :Ponder:


save the engine for the shopping and the school runs...

[Brind]

Originally posted by zedy1
Look at the fastest cars at the POD, how many of the 10 and 11 second cars were actually driven there? The SUMO and GT ART Skylines both arrived on trailers.


mine went back home on a recovery truck INSERT INTO post VALUES (saved £50.00 in fuel)

:D

LMAO!!!! :D
Very unfortunate problem though. :INSERT INTO post VALUES (

I would expect fuel would be quite a factor, seeing 18mpg from these cars with only 280bhp and then those cars pushing in the relms of 600bhp??? INSERT INTO post VALUES (don't quote me) I'd very much hate to see their fuel bills.
Plus too much power in general with the gearing suited to acceleration is a complete nightmare to drive normally.

[enigma]

Simple, you just cant drive them on the road, they are too fast and too expensive! Think of an F1 car, its damn quick but needs a rebuild every 200 miles.......take this to the extreme and look at a Top Fuel dragster and it needs an engine rebuild every mile or so!

Also, there are other considerations to think about when trying to build a fast car, no point having 500BHP if the gearbox gives up at 400HP, or the diff can only cope with 450BHP. While it may be perfectly simple and relatively cheap to get 500BHP from our monsters, I think the service intervals would be 45 miles rather than 4500 and that is simply not good!

I am not trying to put anyone off, I just dont want to see disappointed faces when things start going bang! :Cry1:

If you have money to burn then go for it, otherwise being conservative* is the order of the day!

*this statement in no way represents the political bias of the author!

[SGHOM]

Originally posted by bigdaveakers




Thinking about it, I really think I should get in to the car tuning industry. Lots of money to be made from unsuspecting punters! :D I think my trouble is I like to share things, and I would feel far too guilty tking £500 from someone to install a 40p mod!

OK, that is the end of todays seminar........answers on a postcard.........errr sorry I mean questions!

;)

I bow in the presence of your great knowledge Dave !! from now on, I think I will play "follow my leader ".

[Spirit]

****BREAKING NEWS****

I have just been reliable informed by one of my sources that Apexi have just released the AVC-R2 !

Stocks may be available next week !

No further info as yet but I will post as soon as I know INSERT INTO post VALUES (but may only be £30 more than AVC-R)

[zedy1]

Originally posted by spirit979
****BREAKING NEWS****

I have just been reliable informed by one of my sources that Apexi have just released the AVC-R2 !

Stocks may be available next week !

No further info as yet but I will post as soon as I know INSERT INTO post VALUES (but may only be £30 more than AVC-R)




:Cry1: thats not fair

[Spirit]

Here are some "provisional" prices:

Apexi AVC-R - £310
Apexi AVC-R2 - £340
HKS EVC-5 - £400
Blitz - £300

Prices include P+P

[KiwiTT]

All this talk scares me about modding.

Can't use the car as much ?
... Engine won't last
... Gearbox won't take it
... Rebuild engine every so often.

I bought the VR-4 to use as a daily car.

My planned mods will be ...
... Better Brakes ... Safer
... Better Trans Cooling ... extend its life
... Better rear light cluster ... looks better.

Already have 17" Alloys and Lowered suspension,

The VR-4 is so sweet already. If I wanted a superfast drag car, I would have bought a lightweight car. Acceleration is basically a power to weight equation. So what, if I get beaten occassionally at the lights, at least I can hit and exit corners at speeds it can't reach.

[BraindG]

turbosmart pete seriously!!.. look into it..

[Spirit]

Originally posted by BraindG
turbosmart pete seriously!!.. look into it..

Just gonna look now mate:D

[zedy1]

Originally posted by spirit979
Just gonna look now mate:D


keep us posted
may buy it for the manual

[Spirit]

Here is website for info:

http://www.turbosmart.com.au/

I see an Imprezza website in UK sells the e-Boost for £366

[BraindG]

im sure Rhys will add his penies worth INSERT INTO post VALUES (or cents) when he comes online...

[zedy1]

one here for under £300.00

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33742&item=2443502298

[enigma]

Originally posted by KiwiTT
All this talk scares me about modding.

Can't use the car as much ?
... Engine won't last
... Gearbox won't take it
... Rebuild engine every so often.

I bought the VR-4 to use as a daily car.



This is relative, if you want a modest increase, say +50-75BHP, you probably wont notice much difference in terms of reliability, beyond this is anyones guess if you stick with stock components. There is plenty of scope for cheap power gains, but I was saying if you want serious ones you have to dig deep in your pocket!

[-LegnumVR4-]

Yes the E-Boost is very good, easy to install. Setting the boost pressure is done buy 'set points' eg: 0-99. 0 has no effect on boost pressure so u are just running stock, once the set point is set to say 44 I get about 13.5 -14psi of boost. There is also the 'gate pressure point' as well. This lets me tell the wastegate to open when I want it to eg: the wastegate will start to open at 8.0psi making sure my turbos spin up as fast as they can. There is over boost protection, aux options to run water sprayers at a set psi point, it has a bar graph to show u if your are shooting over ur set pressure point so it can be tuned better plus it beeps to warn u of it. There is boost sensitivity to alter the way E-Boost produces boost. Can display Bar/PSI/Kpa, can also show your peak hold boost pressure.

[zedy1]

looked at some pic for the e boost, altough the apexi is abit of pain in the arse to set i
t still is better than the turbosmart and alot more functions too

[EdmundVR4]

Has anyone gotten their Apexi AVC-R tuned & working properly & reliably. Because I am tired of adjusting & fiddling. I would not recommend this boost controller for our cars. I bought this Apexi AVC-R after researching electronic boost controllers and I hought it was the best & that it would help me hold boost better, but it hasn't. I am thinking of re-installing my dual stage TurboXS manual boost controller as it holds boost better with less spiking. The Apexi AVC-R is packed with features that I don't use. Probably ideal for a rwd drag car.
I have my A setting at .7 kg/cm and it spikes to 1.3 kg/cm and then drops off to about .85 kg/cm.
My B setting is at 1.35 kg/cm and it spikes to 1.3 kg/cm and drops off to about .9 kg/cm.
Comments please, Big Dave & Zedy and anyone else using the Apexi.
Thanks,
Ed

[enigma]

I am running 0.7 quite succesfully, I do get overshoot, but nothing as dramatic as you seem to be getting. Maybe 0.8 to 0.9, which is more than acceptable, I could trim this out, but there is very little point as it is only a short duration spike and I cant be arsed!

I have come to the conclusion that 1.05 is not really acheivable, although I am still trying to trim it. Without plenty of time and patience it is very tricky to do, I have got it somewhere near no and I am quite happy, with this setup I have recorded 272BHP at the wheels with my APEXi RSM. The boost still spikes, depending on the weather, what gear I am in, what my starting revs are etc.......I have seen 1.3, but again as a short duration spike it doesn't really concern me, it soon settles down to the region I want it in. I do however have huge problems around 4-5000RPM as the transition of my duty cycles is very evident. I have had to lower the duty cycles round these RPMs which has meant a drop off in boost to 0.95ish.......seems very sensitive though as 1 or 2 more % puts it up at 1.1ish and I get fuel cut. After 5000 it comes on strong again holding 1.05 and then tails off as the Turbos run out of puff.

There is no doubt it is a bugger to set up, but I think once its there it performs very well. It is all about trying to understand the concept of what it is trying to do. I did some tests with the standard setup INSERT INTO post VALUES (ie no APEXi solenoid, just monitored the boost with the unit) and guess what, the standard system gives an overshoot as well! To control this sort of dynamic system perfectly is not really possible, there are far too many variables that are just not being monitored, and things change so quickly you cant hope to get perfection.

I have experienced overboost when flooring it in a high gear at low revs and I think this is the only downfall of the APEXi, however using it to enhance acceleration through the gears its awesome! I have dropped way over 1 second on my 0-60 times and about 0.8 seconds on my 1/4 mile INSERT INTO post VALUES (even with it not set up right!); and next trip to the Drag Strip should see me easily in the 13s. There are limiting factors at the strip though, the queue is a major issue, you shouldn't really leave the engine running as the intercooler will get heat soaked which means you will be sucking in hot rather than cold air, this is a huge power sapper! I reckon you can see up to 50BHP drop if you are not pulling in cold air. There is the flip side for us auto boys in that we need to maintain the temperature of the oil in the gearbox or we get slow changes. I believe there are 2 ways to combat this, either a cryo cooler on the intercooler or water/nitrous injection to reduce the charge temperature.

In Summary, yes the APEXi is a pig to set up, but if you are a fiddler and understand what you are doing it is great, otherwise go for something simpler and you will get better results.

God, I seem to be posting huge technical messages all the time these days! Time to go spam somewhere!! :p

[Spirit]

Dave

That is excellent information mate ! :D

Has thrown me a bit of an issue now though. My biggest concern is that you KNOW what you are doing and you are still having issues. I don't really when it comes to this and I have no local "experts" to fall back on INSERT INTO post VALUES (crap where I live).

So, bearing this in mind would it be best overall for me to spend that little extra and get the upgraded ECU option ?

[zedy1]

)havent used .95 bar much INSERT INTO post VALUES (besides yesterday when i was abehind a suburu and left it standing :D )

i do get abit of over shoot but not that much and still havent setted it fully would look itnto it more seriously now

but definetly looks cool

[SGHOM]

thrown me also Pete ?? as far as I've learned from this site, my '97 legnum has 260 horses, as standard & not 280. so I thought if I upgrade the ECU to 280, then I can think about boosting it further , with the aid of a turbosmart "E" boost gauge !! :Ponder: :Ponder:

[Spirit]

Derek

I don't plan to upgrade to the 280bhp Mitsy ECU, as this is apparantly not worth the money as gives a little extra at top end only. I am considering an aftermarket ECU upgrade such as a Blitz INSERT INTO post VALUES (these cost £769+VAT from Japan !)

[kammy.ahmed]

Maybe asking a silly question but are we saying that the ECU is better than a boost controller? Can you set boost at .9 withought spikes? and also will a BLITZ ecu stop fuel cut etc and make it more reliable??? I am confused :Ponder:

[Spirit]

Text courtesy of Blitz UK:


BLITZ - ACCESS ECU

On turbo charged engines, the most common way of increasing power is to increase the boost pressure. This increases the amount of air going into the engine, and providing there is sufficient fuel to accompany the boost pressure, the resultant charge is much denser and provides more power. Standard Engine Management systems have built in boost limits, which turn the fuel injectors off if the boost rises a certain amount over standard. To remove the boost limit, an upgraded ECU needs to be fitted. This will usually allow a 30-40% increase in boost pressure with corrected fuelling for the increased boost. Increasing the boost without increasing the fuelling will cause the engine to run lean, which can be fatal for the engine. The Blitz Access computer does not rely on fooling the ECU with external clamping circuits or making sensors read differently, it properly re-programs the factory limits, and all the fuelling is adjusted accordingly. The Boost limits are raised, the speed limits are removed, the rev-limiters are raised, the timing maps optimised, and the fuelling maps are adjusted to cope with higher boost.

[kammy.ahmed]

Thanks Pete! So i am thinking that rather than paying for Boost controller+FCD+Speedlimmit removing device..its better to just upgrade ECU's? Probably costs the same also if not cheaper, and no complicated settings to mess with??

[Spirit]

Thats what I am thinking. I got the price from Racelogic so I have emailed them back tonight to see if the can email me the spec for the VR4 - i.e what boost increase/power gains etc.

[kammy.ahmed]

Sounds good! Would definately be good to find out power gains, and would also need to know who can set these babys up properly.
Probably good to speak to MItsu also to find out if this will inavlidate a warranty....i am pretty sure it will!

[Spirit]

Probably right there ref the warranty - but I have none so may take a gamble - need to research a bit more though as looking at around £900 !

[borgan]

I feel that the ECU route is the way to go. My reservations on the Blitz ECU is that it's been mapped for the Jap market. Is it mapped to run on 102 RON fuel? If so,expect detonation quite soon after purchase as the fuel will be mapped to run leaner & 97/98 RON fuel doesn't have the same cooling characteristics as 102 RON fuel. What mods did the vehicle it was mapped on have? If standard then you're not going to get the most from your existing mods, you're not going to get the full benefit of an exhaust or induction upgrade. I think that it's better to get an ECU mapped to your own car, with your mods & with the fuel you're most likely to use. The most important person if you're going for this upgrade is the tuner. A good tuner will give you excellent results whereas a poor one will leave you wishing you hadn't bothered.

[pjjohnson]

Why not try the Unichip, it will control boost and fuelling for you, about £650 fitted and mapped for your car on a rolling road.

Regards boost controllers, I've had a HKS EVC4 for yonks and it works a treat. Can't say what they are like to fit, but they are easy to set up and they hold boost well without spikes. At £200 its would be bargain.

[enigma]

I am not going to ask how you determine that there are no spikes.........doh!

[pjjohnson]

Would have been a good question, why didn't you ask it ?

The HKS EVC has a safety cut out that triggers at a preset boost limit, and EVC 4 has a boost gauge which you can look at and see what the boost is running at all the time but mostly becuase the 'expert' tuners that have done their thing with the car tell me that thats its not spiking.

What is a spike anyway ?

[Nick VR4]

Originally posted by pjjohnson


What is a spike anyway ?


On a pull-through intake, when the turbo is boosting and the throttle is suddnely shut INSERT INTO post VALUES (while shifting, for instance); a huge vacuum is generated between the engine and the throttle body, and the turbo is spinning in a low-pressure environment. This is good because then there is less air friction to slow the turbine, and so there will be less lag when the throttle is opened again. However, it takes a moment for the compressor turbine to get the air flowing fast again, since the air was at a dead stop. On the blow-through intake, when the throttle is closed, a huge pressure spike is produced between the turbo and the throttle body, because the turbo is blowing against a closed throttle plate. This slows the turbo down very quickly and there is a lot of lag when the throttle is opened again. The pressure spike is also hard on the turbo and intake hoses. To remedy this, the production blow-through setup features a blow-off valve INSERT INTO post VALUES (BOV) on the output hose of the turbo. This is a large, vacuum actuated valve that opens when there is vacuum in the intake manifold INSERT INTO post VALUES (closed-throttle). This valve vents off the pressure spike, avoiding the quick spool-down of the turbo and potentially damaging pressure spikes. Although the turbo still slows down more than the pull-through setup does during the time that the throttle is shut, pressure is brought back up just as quickly because the air is still moving. When the throttle plate is opened again, the BOV immediately shuts and the air flow is directed back into the engine. Also, the 1988 and later Turbo I engines had a smaller turbo, which further reduced the lag. So all in all, the two setups are about even in performance


:D

[chris g]

But even if you choose an upgraded ECU such as Blitz surely the problem of fuel starvation can persist?

The upgraded ECU may alter boost, timing and fuel maps but if fuel pump and ? injectors cannot supply the required amount of fuel as and when the engine demands it then you could be in serious trouble?

Upgraded ECU seems a one-stop solution to increasing power but then requires other mods/kit to use the benefits of the ECU?

[enigma]

My understanding of spiking is different to Nicks...............

A boost spike exists when you stamp on the throttle, the turbos spin up quickly generating huge pressure, the sensor detects this high pressure and begins to adjust the solenoid valve. This in conjunction with the finite amount of time it takes the system to respond leads to a spike.......I could go back to control theory here INSERT INTO post VALUES (B.Eng in Control Engineering) but suffice to say the system will have a response somewhere between no overshoot and slow spool up, and big overshoot and fast spool up. I am in favour of fastish boost build up and a medium amount of overboost. This overboost occurs for fractions of a second and I therefore consider it not to be a problem. I will try and capture this on my boost controller to show you what I mean.....either that or I will draw a pretty diagram! :D

As for the ECU or Other mods question, I guess it all depends what you want. I would be wary of the ECU as there is potential for a bad tuner to get their hands on your car, also it is not easy to change the settings......without getting back to a rolling road. It is for this reason I got the mods I did in the order I did. If I want more power in the future the ECU is my next option........but this would have to be followed closely by new turbos, injectors, fuel pump, forged pistons etc etc. For this reason I am not planning on doing it, I will stick to 370ish BHP and a 100 shot of NOS every once in a blue moon.......If I want to go fast I will strap myself in to my Skoda!

[borgan]

If you're getting a GOOD tuner to map the ECU of your choice then they are going to ensure that you're getting a safe amount of fuel. The VR4 shouldn't suffer from fuel starvation with the HP increases most of us are trying to achieve. If the VR4 injectors are 390cc then, if what i've taken on board in the past is right, they should be O.k upto 468 HP INSERT INTO post VALUES (injector flow rate divided by 5 multipiled by the No. of cylinders); although it would be preferable to change up once past 400 HP. This adds weight to the argument that factory ECU's are mapped on the rich side to avoid detontation. That's why increasing the boost without altering fuelling is safe to a certain point INSERT INTO post VALUES (around 14psi it seems with the VR4).

If I was adding a boost controller I would still prefer a tuner to set it up for me. I imagine it would take me ages to set up correctly. If I was lucky I wouldn't blow up my engine. I'd probably end up having less power & turning the unit off. Dave, however, has the skills & knowledge to get the power he wants by himself. 270 - 280 at the wheels is proof. He revels in the fact that he's achieved all these gains himself INSERT INTO post VALUES (at very low cost). That's how he get his kicks. The majority of us, with the same kit INSERT INTO post VALUES (metal tubing, a baked bean can, an apexi boost controller & £30 air filter) wouldn't make those gains. If he had access to a mappable ECU with the s/ware to adjust the maps himself he'd have a monster of a car.

[Brind]

ECU upgrade could possibly be safer than fiddling with manual boost settings even electronic settings.
But spending £900 to gain an extra possible 60bhp from the stock turbos isn't my kinda of spendin'.
With an upgraded ECU you are stuck with the power you gain and consequently effects fuel economy in a bad way.
Changing the boost settings yourself could be just a quick buzz but when you want to revert back to better fuel economy you simply turn it off.

Obviously this is just my opinion.

[enigma]

I totally agree with both Mark and borgan!

Firstly Mark I run 0.7 bar most of the time, the APEXi boost controller allows 2 settings, so if I pull up at the lights next to something interesting I leave it as is and waste it! If I pull up against something really interesting I change to 1.05 and waste that too! With an ECU I wouldn't be able to do that, I would be stuck with full time 1.05.....shame!

But Borgan is right also, if you are not confident in what you are doing and dont understand the principles it is perhaps better to leave it to an 'expert' tuner to do the work for you. Be aware though that once you have bought the ECU, it will need fitting and then programming on a rolling road at somewhere between £50 and £100 an hour on top of the £900 purchase price! I would advise anyone doing these sorts of mods to learn about them and become confident enough to do them yourself. Its not really rocket science, and the satisfaction you get from knowing how and why the mods work, and actually achieving them is great. :D

[borgan]

With an efficient fuel map your economy will improve. Initially, it won't as you'll want to enjoy your new found power gains whether you've added a boost controller or ECU. With your boost controller off you'll still be running rich. On part throttle you'll be burning the perfect amonut of fuel - as long as the tuner you've used is good.

If the Yamaha Seca motorbike has a factory upgrade allowing boost of 12 psi from 1 turboINSERT INTO post VALUES (baby turbos thread); why shouldn't the twin turbo parrallel setup on the VR4 run effectively to around 18psi?

[zedy1]

i think if i put me head into it ill get it right but as soon as i open the manual for the boost controller i get disturbed so never end up reading so i contact my mate dave and ask him a few short cuts :D

[Spirit]

This has turned out to be a great discussion and thanks for all the tips/comments/opinions - just leaves me one issue though, whichever route I take INSERT INTO post VALUES (ECU or boost controller) I have no-one local to help :Cry1:

[enigma]

I have started a new discussion thread on turbocharger boost spikes and general control theory.......................:D

Can you tell I leave work at 12 on a Friday?!

Follow the link! (http://www.clubvr4.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?s=&postid=17215)

[SGHOM]

Well !! this is my next upgrade, after I get the induction kit, & the de-cat fitted. And there's no way I'm going to try & fit it !! :D :D :nono:

[enigma]

mmmmmmmmmmmm yummy! Hope it performs to your liking!

:D

[Spirit]

Derek

Where did you purchase it from ? Was it direct from Australia, and if you don't mind how much did it set you back ?

Cheers

Pete

[enigma]

Looks like an easy install to me! :D

[SGHOM]

Originally posted by bigdaveakers
Looks like an easy install to me! :D

easy install ??? might be for you, but I'm not going to attempt it !! once I get the other bits done, It's going to a tuning specialist reccomended to me to be installed , set up & tuned. I suppose if I'd shopped round etc, I could probably found it cheaper than the £355.49 [ inc vat ] I paid. bought it from POTN. comes with a lovely big window sticker though !!! "NITROUS SOLUTIONS" now, where shall I stick that ?? imprudent suggestions may not be acted upon !!



:D :D :D

[chris g]

Turbosmart kit is available from Owen Engineering who are renowned for turbo and Unichip work so I guess they will supply, fit and set up the car for desired power etc

[zedy1]

looks good :D

[Spirit]

Okay now I have another dilema - I have the chance to acquire a Blitz DUAL SBC TYPE R for a very reasonable price and its brand new aswell. Any comments ?

http://www.blitz-uk.co.uk/2003/images/sbcspecr.jpg

Spec S:
The Spec S is the most cost effective boost controller available from Blitz. It features a single solenoid that diverts pressure away from the turbo actuator to achieve higher boost. This solenoid is linked to a smart control unit installed inside the car, which allows you to adjust the boost pressure manually.


The control unit has four programmable channels, each of which can be programmed with an individual boost setting to suit driving conditions or styles. For example, if it’s wet and you’re struggling around town to get traction, then you can select a channel you’ve set up with low boost. Alternatively if you’re taking part in a track day and want maximum speed, then you can select a channel with high boost for maximum power.

Another key feature of the SBC Spec S is a programmable boost limiter, which when activated prevents possible engine damage caused by the turboINSERT INTO post VALUES (s) over boosting. You also have the option to enter a boost warning level, when this level is reached the control unit will alert you by beeping and changing the LCD background colour to Red. The Spec S is recommended up to 18 Psi.

Spec R:
This is very similar to the Spec S, the main difference being the Spec R has twin solenoids meaning it can control up to 2.5 bar INSERT INTO post VALUES (36 Psi) of boost. All the functions are the same as the Spec S and the control unit is exactly the same size and shape. Both Spec S and R come supplied with a fitting kit and installation diagrams.

[-LegnumVR4-]

E-Boost has all of those features as well. I still think it's one of the better ones out there :cool1:

[Spirit]

I agree but I maybe have the chance of getting the Blitz for over £100 cheaper than the e-Boost one - still negotiating

[enigma]

If nothing else getting the blitz will provide people with reviews of 3 similar but very different boost controllers! An expensive experiment though!

[pjjohnson]

Which three are they ?

[zedy1]

actually four
hks evc
apexi avcr
turbo e boost
and the abovew blitz

[Spirit]

Looks like it has fallen through :INSERT INTO post VALUES (

[enigma]

boooooooooooo hiiiissssss!

[-LegnumVR4-]

Review of the E-Boost controller:

http://www.turbosmart.com.au/AutoSpeed_%20e-Boost_Eval.htm

The E-Boost manual:

http://www.jrponline.com/downloads/installs/eboost.pdf