Exbury
01-01-2007, 01:25 PM
Well, after the gearbox rebuild (and wishing I had not disturbed the clutch line, I have a few problems with rebleeding the clutch and getting it to work.
Actions;
Dismantled the clutch at the flexible hose (clamped) during the gearbox removal (with Hindsight, probably best not to do this as the system should be able to be unbolted and remain above the gearbox during removal.
Upon rebuild & re-connection, tried to hand bleed the system, however as soon as the pedal was touched it sank to the floor and no further travel. Even after several attemps and tryign to bleed at each join, the pedal keeps on sinking.
Unbolted hardline, piston etc complete from gearbox and raised as high as possible, rebleed and replaced. Pedal now sinks nearly to the floor with 1"-2" of travel by foot to partially move the clutch release arm.
Got a pressurised brake bleeding system and did it all over again, new fluid and redoing the above.
No difference - I now have a pedal that when touched the spring kicks in and it sinks to the floor, the little bit of travel 1-2" by foot which moves the piston on the gearbox a little.
Noticed - Have noticed that if I push the piston on the g/box with my finger it goes in easily and fluid builds up in the master cylinder. I was expecting that the unit between the piston and the flexible hose is a proportioning valve and that when I push the piston in, the valve will allow only a little fluid to return slowly (although saying that might cause clutch engaging problems!?!).
Also when pedal is brought back up by hand, the piston on the g/box end moves in.
My initial thoughs are that where the clutch line runs UP from the Clutch cylinder, before going DOWN to the flexible hose, air is still trapped in this section, which is why the pedal sinks as air is more compressible than the fluid and the spring on the pedal is stronger than the air. This is why I do not get the power in the hydraulic system I should.
Tested - I have tested the clutch engage/disengage with a bar, seems to work, the gearbox selects all gears when the release arm is put into position etc.
As the clutch line is hidden behind the brake lines, I was thinking of making up a new copper line, bleeding it all ABOVE the clutch master cylinder, then bending the line down and fitting without disturbing the system again.
Otherwise any other thoughts before I take it to a garage, I need some experience or possibilities please? Thanks, Jason
Actions;
Dismantled the clutch at the flexible hose (clamped) during the gearbox removal (with Hindsight, probably best not to do this as the system should be able to be unbolted and remain above the gearbox during removal.
Upon rebuild & re-connection, tried to hand bleed the system, however as soon as the pedal was touched it sank to the floor and no further travel. Even after several attemps and tryign to bleed at each join, the pedal keeps on sinking.
Unbolted hardline, piston etc complete from gearbox and raised as high as possible, rebleed and replaced. Pedal now sinks nearly to the floor with 1"-2" of travel by foot to partially move the clutch release arm.
Got a pressurised brake bleeding system and did it all over again, new fluid and redoing the above.
No difference - I now have a pedal that when touched the spring kicks in and it sinks to the floor, the little bit of travel 1-2" by foot which moves the piston on the gearbox a little.
Noticed - Have noticed that if I push the piston on the g/box with my finger it goes in easily and fluid builds up in the master cylinder. I was expecting that the unit between the piston and the flexible hose is a proportioning valve and that when I push the piston in, the valve will allow only a little fluid to return slowly (although saying that might cause clutch engaging problems!?!).
Also when pedal is brought back up by hand, the piston on the g/box end moves in.
My initial thoughs are that where the clutch line runs UP from the Clutch cylinder, before going DOWN to the flexible hose, air is still trapped in this section, which is why the pedal sinks as air is more compressible than the fluid and the spring on the pedal is stronger than the air. This is why I do not get the power in the hydraulic system I should.
Tested - I have tested the clutch engage/disengage with a bar, seems to work, the gearbox selects all gears when the release arm is put into position etc.
As the clutch line is hidden behind the brake lines, I was thinking of making up a new copper line, bleeding it all ABOVE the clutch master cylinder, then bending the line down and fitting without disturbing the system again.
Otherwise any other thoughts before I take it to a garage, I need some experience or possibilities please? Thanks, Jason