Newbie questions

[Rambaud]

A search did not throw up the answers I was looking for.

1. Being a high compression engine, I assume the 2.4 GDI needs the highest RON petrol for maximum performance? If so, I assume the ECU retards the igintion for 95 RON (Ordinary Unleaded)? So this would mean Optimax (98 RON), BP Ultimate -or I have read that Sainsburys Super Unleaded (97 RON) is supplied by BP?

2. When should the dampers be changed - the car has done 115,600 miles? I used to change them at around 3 years/45,000 miles (but my previous cars were all sold at under 40,000 miles).

3. Torque converter seal seems a weak link? I assume this can be changed when the gearbox fluid is renewed? What is the likely cost?

Anything else need looking at?

[Kieran]

In order then:

1. Yes - The GDi engine needs the best quality petrol you can give it to work most efficiently - and that means quality as well as octane content. I've explained why this is in the link below. As your car is a UK-Spec you won't have to worry quite so much about the info in this link, but it should give you an idea of why the GDi engines need good petrol:

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=161291&postcount=19

2. I would say that ~45-50k is sensible. Certainly, my VR-4 with 105k and my V6 sport with around ~85k miles all had knackered shocks. It's not always easy to tell that they're goosed - none of mine leaked (presumably because they're gas?) and they always work fine on the MOT 'bounce' test. One symptom that can indicate that the shocks are dead is the ride being 'jiggly', particularly on a rutted road. Both my V6 and my VR-4 shocks (the OEM manuf is KYB) failed in the same way - they would compress stiffly, and then not rebound at all when off the car - not good!

3. The torque convertor seal is a weak link on the VR-4's gearbox for sure, however I've never heard of this seal letting go on the FWD/UK spec models - so I wouldn't worry about it. It's a pain to change as you have to split the gearbox from the engine, and you will get some warning if it does go.... When the box gets warm it'll start to drip ATF from around the engine/bellhousing joint and it gets progressively worse.

[Rambaud]

Kieran,

Thanks for taking the time to reply.

Is the difference between Optimax and BP 97 RON likely to be noticeable?

[Kieran]

Kieran,

Thanks for taking the time to reply.

Is the difference between Optimax and BP 97 RON likely to be noticeable?

No worries! We're here to help!:happy:

As for the difference between Optimax and BP97.... Well, Optimax has been discontinued now (I think?!), so it's Shell V-Power (99RON) VS BP (97RON). I would say try it out for a few tankfuls and see. It tends to vary from car to car.

[Rambaud]

Kieran,

Yes you are right - Shell Optimax has been replaced by V-Power (99 RON).

I have not used Shell petrol in over 2 years. Not because I did not like it, but because the BP one is nearer - and I get Nectar points. :)

Do I need to re-set the ECU?

[Rambaud]

Which shock absorbers do people recommend - KYB, Bilstien etc?

How much to change all 4?

[Kieran]

Well, I've always replaced with Bilstein and I have no complaints.

KYB.... well, they're the OEM make, and I've not heard bad things about their reputation, but because I've replaced absolutely dead units each time, I can't really say if they're comparable to Bilstein or not. However, it's unlikely I would go KYB in the future, simply because KYB UK went out of their way to be as unhelpful as possible when I was trying to source shocks for my VR-4! Barstewards!/pan

[Rambaud]

Thanks for the response, Kieran.

So how much (approximately) would a set (4) of Bilstiens cost me, including fitting?

Also, do I need to re-set the ECU following a change from 95 RON petrol to higher octane petrol?