The Amsoil test

[RugbyPete]

How are we getting on with the testing of the amsoil products on members cars?

I'm definitely using their ATF next change as its in there long term, but still not 100% sold on their engine oil if I'm going to change it frequently anyway. If I get the go-ahead that members still have decent oil after 15k+ then I may reconsider...

Is there anywhere I can see an update or check progress?

[Nutter_John]

think Bernmc was doing a long run test which the date I think is in the members area , maybe PM the sheep loving banana man and see what the latest is

[amsoil]

I think that much of the point in using a top quality oil is lost if you are only looking at it lasting longer (which it will and by some) You should be also looking for an increase in MPG or rear wheel HP of between 2-8% , which should pay for the oil anyway; a much smoother engine as all the synthetic oil is there for lubricating which actually is not what minaeral oils give you. The hydro tappets should survive and actually clean up so that the dreaded tappet knocking is banished into distant memory. The engine will now be cleaner internally and the synthetic oil will continue to errode the nasty harder sludges and varnish that will still be inside and perhaps cause turbo and oil feed problems. The thinner and very much stronger synthetic oil will reduce emissions by upto 68% (EU tests) will enable easier starting perhaps saving the odd battery and starter motor, give quicker warm ups hence less wear at the critical time and better MPG as you will be on choke for less time. The thinner oil will strip heat away better from the bearings and pistons allowing aan ECU to run nearer the knock point as combustion temps are kept lower. etc etc . Hand in hand with this is the reduced pumping losses which will enable the engine to run cooler. Then theres that Amsoil oil filter that will filter better than anything else out there by a very long way and will last 25K and hold 5 times the crap of the normal filters. But hey if you don't want to be pushed towards Amsoil which is the best in tests go buy some Motul locally. Better still take the car to WRD for a once over!

[Nick Mann]

Lol @ Don!

Most of us that have tried Amsoil will recommend it. In the engine as well as the gearbox. I was always a fan of 'buy the cheapest that sounds right' before, but after a couple of good oils, ending up with amsoil, I am convinced that on the whole, you get what you pay for.

There are plenty of people on here that don't use Amsoil (unlucky for Don!) and you won't be shunned if you don't! Infact, Don's advice is usually honest and frank, so if he says Motul is a good alternative, it probably is! And as Nutter John says, in the meantime PM bernmc and ask him if he'll let you know his findings so far.

[RugbyPete]

Yeah, I remember doing a lot of research and found a real gem, that being the Texaco fully synthetic oil as found in Asda. Its cheap, but has one of the highest oil ratings available - you cant get these ratings if the oil doesn't perform. Comes with all the detergents and benefits you need.

But again, I would change it as frequently as I normally do, and Amsoil is definately going in the transmission for peace of mind that it COULD last longer in there, meaning a regular service interval is overkill - great insurance!

Here are the Texaco links http://www.hwpetro.com/texacoproducts.html
Looking at the specs of the oils, generall amsoil does a better job on all accounts, however you need to ask yourself how good is good?? Its specs are great, and I guess you get more mialge out of amsoil as a result, BUT if you are doing oil changes sooner and at less cost (about a 5th) it balances out.

[Rambaud]

In the past, I have done what RugbyPete has been doing - changing the oil (and filter) on a regular basis. For me that was every 6 months/6000 miles - sometimes 3000 miles over the winter period.

I used a good quality semi-synthetic in my non-turbo cars, and fully synthetic in my turbo ones. Even had the oil tested on a couple of occasions after 6000 miles - it was still fine (but not necessarily optimum).

I too may need persuading to change to Amsoil. :)

[RugbyPete]

Using the Texaco Full synthetic has gotta be better than the semi-synthetic, and no more expensive I would have thought... unless you get it for like £4 for 5 litres!

Texaco Havoline Fully-Synthetic is about £10 for 5litres if I remember correctly

I'm not sure if I can do an Amsoil every 3-6000 mile change without the missus kicking up a fuss again

Havoline is high performance oil, for peanuts. Amsoil is a luxury, and probably overkill if changing the oil regularly.

I want this overkill however for my tranny.

[Rambaud]

Using the Texaco Full synthetic has gotta be better than the semi-synthetic, and no more expensive I would have thought... unless you get it for like £4 for 5 litres!



Yes, I did use to pay ~ £1 per litre for Mobil semi-synthetic 'cos I bought it by the barrel from a local Audi dealer. :)

[RugbyPete]

Canny moan!

[Rambaud]

Then I paid nothing for servicing for 3 years, as I allowed the dealer to use my car as a demonstrator! :pimp2:

[thecustomer]

did you notice the line that Don slipped in about the amsoil filter?

If it really does last that much longer, then whatever oil you use, and however long it's left in there, just maybe an amsoil oil filter is worth investing in: at your oil will be cleaner

(& I have to say that on amsoil engine oil & filter it does move off better from cold, and runs cooler, by the width of the temp needle)

[bernmc]

My amsoil goes off to the lab at every service - the results are in the members section, so you'll have to cough up to see them.

I have ended up changing my engine oil as regularly as before, mainly because a) I forgot to tell Xtreme to take a sample before adding flush (doh!), and I had a leak in the intake system which was introducing silicates into the oil. I'll be testing again in 2000 miles, and will leave the stuff in this time if it remains in spec.

I've done 12500 without changing the ATF as the lab says it's still in spec.

The saga continues.

ATF: http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=20704

Oil: http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14349

The threads above have full lab results - hard facts, not manufacturer's bluster.

[I-S]

Well, I'm going to put it this way.

Two weeks ago a garage did me a "favour" by giving me a "free" oil and filter change. Previously there was Amsoil ASL 5W30 and an Amsoil filter in there. Now there's a mitsubishi (purflux) filter and "Rock Oil Strata 5W30" (class 3 "synthetic" (it's not really... it's hydrocracked base stock. Amsoil is class 4 (PAO))). The Amsoil combo was 2000 miles old. The engine is already giving tappet noise from cold with the new oil, which it was not doing with the Amsoil.

This isn't even a question of the oil lasting longer... it's a question of it working well at all.

As for the ATF... I've done 14000 miles on it now, and it's still bright red on the dipstick. It's still smooth and working well.