Problems to look out for at 90k+ Miles?

[IAC77]

Please forgive the long post...

My V6 Sport has done 94k miles and seems to be running well (although I have no point of reference), here's whats been done to it (mechanically) since I bought it in December:

1. Rear Drivers Side shock replaced.
2. WRD Service (Amsoil Oil and ATF Flush)
3. Power Steering Hose and cap replaced due to leak
4. OEM battery replaced
5. Front Passenger side headlight connector block replaced
6. Coolant replaced
7. Tracked and Balanced
8. Random aeshetic engine parts
9. Grounding Kit

Here's what I know is due for replacement:

1. Full Exhaust System, existing one is from when the car was new and is heavily corroded but is not yet blowing.
2. Spark Plugs, don't think these have been replaced since new
3. Cam Belt in around 10k miles

My queries:

1. What other parts usually fail around this mileage?

2. If I'm having my Cam Belt replaced, are there any other parts that are worth replacing at the same time?

3. The MPG of the car is poor (2.5 Auto), residential driving is 20MPG at max with normal driving, which I suspect is due to the exhaust system (possibly oxygen sensor too) and spark plugs. Is there anything else that could attribute to poor MPG at this mileage?

4. Since replacing the Power Steering cap (the old one had a clip broken and fluid was leaking slightly from the top), the steering doesn't feel as quick, what could be the cause of this? I remember someone telling me that the Power Steering system does need some air to operate effectively?

[Kieran]

Good to see a car being attentively maintained! /GJ :scholar:

To answer your questions:

1.
You may find the other shockers go west.
The engine mounts on the VR-4 can start to collapse at this mileage, so keep an eye on your V6 ones, though I'd suspect they'll be okay yet. An increase in vibration can mean they're struggling.
Rust.... The rear wheel arch lips and the inner arch to sill joints (looking towards the front of the car) are vulnerable. As are the inner sill and strut tower seams in the engine bay.
Your suspension bushings will be getting a bit slack. Not an issue per-se, but if the handling gets sloppy, put these on your list of things to check!
Torque Convertor splines.... A V6 weakness, if the car's been thrashed in it's past. the splines strip, leaving you with no drive. The T/C and the input shaft should be changed. However - this can occour at any mileage/age, so don't think you need to budget for an imminent failure - I mention it because it *can* happen.

2.
Make sure the cambelt tensioner pulley, idler pulley and waterpump are done at the same time. Not heard of a waterpump siezing up on these cars, but seeing as it'll strip the cambelt if it does, it's sensible preventative maintenance. Also consider checking the condition of your other belts and the associated tensioner pulleys whilst the cambelt's done. You may not need any new parts, but seeing as you'll have to take them off anyway, it makes sense to.

3. Think you've covered this one. If the plugs have never been replaced you should notice a fairly dramatic difference in performance and MPG. Use good quality platinums or Iridium plugs. Avoid copper. Only other things I can think of are the air filter, running some "10K boost" or "Amsoil power foam" through the engine to clean up the throttle body, MAF and such and possibly also consider changing the fuel filter - the guide I've written in the articles area applies to the non-vr-4 models too.

4.
Pass on this one, I'm afraid! Anyone else any ideas?/help

[Nick Mann]

Power steering - was the same type of fluid used to refill the system after the leak was fixed? Have you re-checked the fluid level after operation? Have you tried loosening the cap and having a gentle ride round the block?

[IAC77]

Cheers for the quick feedback guys, appreciated.


The engine mounts on the VR-4 can start to collapse at this mileage, so keep an eye on your V6 ones, though I'd suspect they'll be okay yet. An increase in vibration can mean they're struggling.

Interesting you mention this as I forgot to also note the following issue:

At speeds upwards of 60mph there is a noticeable vibration throughout the car, can be felt mostly on the steering wheel. At first I attributed it to wind noise, (I'm missing my Gearbox cover and Bottom Engine Cover which causes the nearside dirt guard to be a little flappy) but now I'm not so sure. Its just strange how it only occurs above certain speeds. If I rev the engine hard from a standing stop to around 40mph I don't experience the vibration.


Power steering - was the same type of fluid used to refill the system after the leak was fixed? Have you re-checked the fluid level after operation? Have you tried loosening the cap and having a gentle ride round the block?

Yes, on both occasions it was Amsoil. I can certainly try and loosen the cap to see if that makes a difference. The other thing is, what is the correct way to fit the cap? i.e. do you clip it on, then turn it 30-40 degrees?

TBH, I may be making something out of nothing on this one, its just that I'm very sensitive to changes in the way a car drives.

[Paul Beazer]

Cheers for the quick feedback guys, appreciated.



Interesting you mention this as I forgot to also note the following issue:

At speeds upwards of 60mph there is a noticeable vibration throughout the car, can be felt mostly on the steering wheel. At first I attributed it to wind noise, (I'm missing my Gearbox cover and Bottom Engine Cover which causes the nearside dirt guard to be a little flappy) but now I'm not so sure. Its just strange how it only occurs above certain speeds. If I rev the engine hard from a standing stop to around 40mph I don't experience the vibration.

I could be wrong, but that sounds like a wheel out of balance. I used to have a speed wobble about 85 mph, go over or under that speed and it goes away.

To add to the list, wheel bearing may start to go around those sorts of mileage, id replaced around 97k, but only on one side oddly.

Plugs should have been replaced at the 54k service (when the cambelt should have been done last as well)
Cant think of a lot else really.
It might be worth cleaning the distirbutor cap out and get rid of any build up of deposits on the contacts and rotor arm.
Nothing else springs to mind ATM