CV joints, anyone changed one?

[mattpage]

I've got the classic symptoms, knocking when turning.
Anyone changed one before, it is a big job and what sort of costs are involved?

[WildCards]

Dunno about VR4's, but Euroboxes are fairly cheap. Around £15 for a new boot & grease, whip the driveshaft off and take it to a workshop who'll slap the new one on for you for around a tenner. Or do it yourself if you know how/have the tools.

[stuartturbo]

Easy Job
It's a standard type CV joint undo bolt and whack off:inquisiti
But try to get a joint is a different matter :speechles Mitshibishi will supply the full assembly inner and outer plus drive shaft and 6weeks about £400/pan

The Evo 8 will not fit as the inner sline is to small 30 spline to 32 on the VR4( dont quote me on the size though)

[Gowf]

I had to change one on mine recently. It was £478 from mitsi, but only took a week to get hold of it. The inner cv joint on the o/s/f shaft had gone on mine, and when taken apart to inspect why, found out that it was full of standard LM3 grease. If you could call it grease as it did resemble cake! certainly not the molybdenium stuff thats supposed to be there.
Is yours auto or manual?
When searching for a 2nd hand shaft, i could only get auto's, which wasnt much use to me.
I do have the old shaft sitting here, and as far as i know the outer joint is fine, so that may be an option for you if you wish.
As for fitting, very straight forward, doesnt take long at all.

[Kieran]

The inner cv joint on the o/s/f shaft had gone on mine, and when taken apart to inspect why, found out that it was full of standard LM3 grease. If you could call it grease as it did resemble cake! certainly not the molybdenium stuff thats supposed to be there.

Ah.... Now then - you say the inner CV? You mean the gearbox end one, the 3 leg spider joint in the green scalloped casing?

If you do... Well there's a reason it wasn't full of moly grease, as I found out, to my surprise. my inner CV boot split recently and I ended up ordering a genuine Mitsubishi repair kit, complete with new clips, snap rings and 110 grams of genuine Mitsubishi grease for the joint. I have no idea what the grease was in the kit, but it wasn't moly stuff. The best description I can give is that it was just like cold custard in terms of colour and consistency.... weird stuff!

[Gowf]

Ah.... I've never seen that before. The stuff in mine had gone hard though, so i doubt it was providing much lubrication, infact probably doing the opposite.

In all honesty i kicked up a fuss anyway as i'd only bought the car 2 months prior to the joint going (2 out of the 3 bearings had collapsed!). But alas, i got nothing from the garage i bought it from. Really did try, but in the end couldnt be doing with the hassle. Warrenty? - whats that?

[bernmc]

Give Mo a call - he can get joints (CV ones I mean. Jimbo can get the other type ;))

[mattpage]

Could the symptoms of a CV joint be mistaken for a wheel bearing?
Just removed the wheel, and the hub has a bit of play. So I am guessing this is the problem?

[Gowf]

Im not sure about the VR4's, but a 205 i had was making one hell of a knocking sound when cornering enthusiastically. I therefore assumed it to be an outer cv joint as you would as there was no play in the hub at all. In the end though after a lot of pissing about changing things, it did indeed end up being a wheel bearing. Its the only time i have seen this, as usualy you are accompanied by a rumble when there are on there way out.

As you have play, i assume it is in all directions, not independantly horrizontal or vertical? If so, a bearing is the place that i would start.

Sorry about the long-winded rant there, hope it helps