Serious problem

[mattpage]

This morning I've started getting a problem with the car,
after driving to a stop, lights, junctions etc the engine starts to splutter and stalls.
It happens when its hot or cold, tip or auto.

Its also kind of intermittent as it went away for a few minutes before coming back.
On sunday I took some ATF out as it was a little over full. I reset the ECU afterwards, is this likely to have caused something?

I changed the spark plugs recently, so I dont think it would be them. Could something like the fuel filter cause it?

[WildCards]

Silly question, but have you got enough fuel in it?

Could be the ECU reset, or incorrect gap in the plugs or some crappy fuel going through I guess.

Have you tried putting it into 'N' when it starts spluttering and giving it some revs to stop it stalling? Perhaps give it a thrashing and add some injector cleaner to a fresh tank of super might cure it.

[bernmc]

Read the MUTT - may give you a hint.

[mattpage]

Fuel is Tesco 99, not the best but cant be bad either. Just under 1/4 tank left.

Tried giving it a thrashing, didn't do anything. Tried putting into N as well, and the higher revs do stop the splutter, but as soon as I let off the throttle it stalls.
The spark plugs were changed about a month ago, and its only just starting happening, so I doubt its them.

[Spirit]

You haven't got a loose hose somewhere ?

[Paul Beazer]

Possible air leak. I seem to recall that there is an item which has a rubber diaphragm which over time perishes and can cause this sort of problem, but i cant for the life of me remember what it is...
Found it! Have a looksee HERE (http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12684)

[Paul Beazer]

Also have a look HERE (http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11197) too.

[Davezj]

When you say the gearbox was over full with oil. you did let the oil warm up and check it as follow.

1.engine running, oil warm, foot brake on.
2.Selectt D, then N, then R, Then N, then D, and repeate a few time to make sure the gearbox oil has filled all the pipes and tubes and spaces.
3.check oil level with engine running.

I didn't do this with my first auto car, when cold i drained oil out to level on dip stick and ran it like that this was a big mistake as gear box was running on very low levels of oil and car shug the box.

I am not trying to teach you to suck eggs but it is an easy mistake to make as handbooks are not usually with the cars when bought or they are Japanese.

Hope this helps Dave.

[mattpage]

I've checked the gearbox oil when cold and hot, when cold it was in the middle of the 'hot' markings and when hot it was above the 'hot' markings.

I didn't remove much fluid, and when I checked it again it was near the top of the 'cold' markings, when the car had been standing for several hours.

[mattpage]

Just filled up with BP ultimate and added injector cleaner. I don't think it will work, but its cheap and easy enough to do, and I can tick it off the possibilitys if it doesnt work.

Do you think it could be caused by a blocked fuel filter? Reason I'm asking is that the filler pipe isnt in the best of condition, I'm thinking maybe its corroding and bits are blocking the filter up? That's probably what I will try next.

[WildCards]

Could be, especially if it's happening under all scenario's. Can't imagine replacing a filler pip is a nice job though.

[ritch_w]

idle control valve

had the exact same issue on a beemer years ago - a quick clean of the ICV restored a steady idle and stopped the stalling

[mattpage]

Could be, especially if it's happening under all scenario's. Can't imagine replacing a filler pip is a nice job though.


Yeh perhaps not. Looking from underneath I can see its connected by 2 bolts to the exterior part, unsure about the inner part. New pipe was about £60, so worth trying as it needs doing anyway.
I'll investigate the Idle control valve.

[colVR4]

If the car has done a few miles it is a good bet that it is the idle control valve. Do a search on it and you will find that it is a common problem.

Mine has just started playing up at 70k miles and is due a clean. Symptoms sound exactly the same.

[mattpage]

Well I checked the Idle control valve, and gave it a clean.
It definatly improved things. The idle is still lumpy, but its not trying to stall now.

So I guess that is probably the fault, but a new part is needed.
Anyone got an idea of price?
Also is this the right part number: MD322978 ?

[peter thomson]

camskill are selling them for £85 plus vat and delivery

http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m22b11s1399p6902

[peter thomson]

And on ebay with free postage and no vat if its the same one

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MITS-FTO-VR4-EVO-1-2-3-IDLE-CONTROL-VALVE-STEPPER_W0QQitemZ290029349769QQihZ019QQcategoryZ10 400QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item290029349769

[pitslayer]

i had the same its not specific to VR4s, ive brought it down to a faulty ignition system. my car was fine when i bought...then some woman ripped the keys out of the ignition, and then it started to splutter adn cut out...ive had garages look and they said ignition....its gone now. cleared up after a few days, but the idle is still a bit wierd