My 8g galant

[tesna]

Ok, here's my galant.

2000 Mitsubishi Galant, 6A13 N/A, AT

-18" Enkei Zenkei rims with 225/40/18 tires
-Koni adjustable shocks with H&R springs
-unknown brand of front strut bar
-HKS air filter replacement
-6000K H7 HID kit
-Leather seats
-double din touchscreen, dvd, divx, bluetooth, sd card reader, ipod ready, 5.1 output head unit (cheap chinese/korean brand)
-5.1 performance teknique amp
-front 6,5" JBL splits (I'm about to replace it)
-stock rear 6,5" coax
-rockford subs (forgot the model no)
-center speaker taken from logitech z-5300 (lol)
-deadened all lower half of the interiors

[WildCards]

Like it alot Tesna, and loving the tiled floor in the garage. How cool is that!

[n13l pm]

Nice looking car mate. Neat install, which also allows you to get to the spare wheel :2thumbsup

[White Lightning]

Looks fantastic /yes

Love the garage floor too ...

[BraindG]

wow, nice.. im liking those wheels, suites the car! :pimp2:

[tesna]

thanks for the compliment guys, I'm really appreciate it :)

Now, I'm just realized that I should give priority to install the deadening materials in the boot first instead the interiors. My boot is vibrates so bad when I crank the volume :(

[n13l pm]

So did you deaden the boot at all? Which part of the boot vibrates a lot? You might be able to guide me areas iv over looked. Have a look at my deadening (http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19513) iv yet to post pics of the roof and door cards, but its all done.

[tesna]

no, not yet deaden the boot at all. My main goal was to reduce road noise, so I decided to done the interiors first. My front two doors was the first, done couple months ago. I was amazed by the results, gain a lot of midbasses, improve front sound stage alot, and reduced noise from outside.

The part that vibrates so much it the boot lid which facing directly to the subs. The number plates sometimes also create some nasty noise. Did you also deadened the boot lid?

[n13l pm]

Yeah iv done the boot lid and rear shelf. I doubled up on the doors and roof and now they feel like a rock! iv also used the spray stuff on top of the normal stuff in the doors and rear shelf. I guess i might aswell spray the deadening spray in to the gaps within the boot lid. il take pics over the weekend to update that thread.

[JMO]

I love those wheels on it, very hot

[tesna]

n13l pm, did you also double on the rear doors? On the front doors, I did the inner skin, outer skin (close the service holes and seal it up to make the door as a baffle for midbass), and inside of the door trim. So it makes about three layers (one layer on each skin). On the rear doors I only deadened the inner skin of my doors, since I think there is no speakers in the doors, so I didn't seal it up. How do you did yours? Do I need also did the same thing as my front doors to achieve better sound dampening?

JMO, thanks mate :)

[n13l pm]

I have not done the rear doors at all at the moment, I dont think it will need to be done, I was going to wait and see, may end at most with a single layer on the outer skin.

On the front doors iv done the same as you by sealing up the door to create a enclosure for the speaker, to increase midrange/bass. But I doubled up on the outer skin because when i knocked on it from the outside it felt as if more could be done, in addition i also sprayed some deadening material. Theres a pic in this thread (http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=21804) of my door, as u can see the inner skin was not a 100% finished at the time. As for inside of the door trim im using a thin sheet of roof insulation material to dampen up any vibrations. Im also using the roof insulation to line the floor and roof of the car too.

[tesna]

uh oh, I think I got it misplaced with the terms of inner skin and outer skin of the door. Outer skin means the metal located next to the exterior, right? If so, that means I did it on the outer skin on the rears, not the inner skin as I said before :)

[n13l pm]

Outer skin means the metal located next to the exterior, right?

Yeah thats right. I noticed you may have got mixed up. So anyways have you only recently finished your ICE install? and what battery are you using?

[tesna]

Nope, my most ICE install already finished up almost 1 year ago, but I just replaced the HU few weeks ago. and I just deadened section other than front two doors on last weekend. My battery is a regular standard one, and served me pretty well (already last more than 2 years I think). Is there any advantage using dry cell/deep cycle one?

[Mitsi-Wayne]

oh i wish mine looked like that its a very nice car mate well done!!

[n13l pm]

It depends on how much your sound system is drawing out from the battery. The more you draw power the harder the alternators got to work. Also for the the amp to run at its peak you should provide good power. I think the main advantages of a deep cycle battery will be the alternator will have less work to do, the battery will last longer, and in effect your car and sound system will run better because you got sufficient power. Also if the voltage on the deep cycle is ever run really low, it will regain power by itself.

[KHK]

very nice car and garage!

my audio man deaden my car's boot, now i know why

have you thought about a rear spoiler?

[Strizi]

Damn really nice G.:scholar:
What konis do you use?Your g is very low.

[tesna]

KHK, thanks :) Rear spoiler? you mean the wing we put at the top of the boot? If so, I don't really like it, I like my car simple.

Strizi, thanks :) I use yellow adjustable konis with H&R springs. Yeah it's low, I put 1 cm lower than the highest position (the spring support on the shock can be moved up and down).

[Nick VR4]

Very nice car :D

[tesna]

thx Nick,

btw, I think I want to increase the height of my front suspension and reduce the stiffness on the rears. The problem is, all four side is set to the hardest position, but still I feel the rears are stiffer than the fronts. I think it's because the front got a lot of weight from the engine. I also want to increase the height of the fronts about 10mm, to make it easier when dealing with speed bumps. But I don't want to change the height of the back. Would that be a problem or not?

[ralliart-type-s]

Like the ride Tesna, looking good, I also like the tiled garage floor ( note to self- tile da garage floor !! )

[vanvan]

Damn, that is really, really nice. I can only hope I can get my future VR4 looking as sweet as that. Good work man! Great ride height, and really good wheels.

[RALLI//ART]

Nice Wheels!

[vr4moose]

Ok, here's my galant.

2000 Mitsubishi Galant, 6A13 N/A, AT

-18" Enkei Zenkei rims with 225/40/18 tires
-Koni adjustable shocks with H&R springs
-unknown brand of front strut bar
-HKS air filter replacement
-6000K H7 HID kit
-Leather seats
-double din touchscreen, dvd, divx, bluetooth, sd card reader, ipod ready, 5.1 output head unit (cheap chinese/korean brand)
-5.1 performance teknique amp
-front 6,5" JBL splits (I'm about to replace it)
-stock rear 6,5" coax
-rockford subs (forgot the model no)
-center speaker taken from logitech z-5300 (lol)
-deadened all lower half of the interiorsLOVELY CAR AND GARAGE, A CREDIT TO YOU....

[tesna]

it's been a while, I just want to update to show now I got proper HID setup. I retrofitted my headlight with projectors that comes from an mazda rx-8. Here's the beam results:

Altough it's not the best projector, and it's still using 6000K china made bulbs and ballast but overall I'm impressed with the result. The beam is more intense, spreads evenly, wider, and no glare!

I'm planning to replace the bulbs with philips 4300K but it is so hard to find these in my country with reasonable price.

[ritch_w]

looks good!
how did u fit the mazda projectors?

[psbarham]

Nice:pimp2: , any pic's of the headlights themselves?

oh and the missus wants your house

[elnevio]

Very nice! Will you be doing a 'how to' guide?

[Johnny_Cashed]

very nice, HID done the right way. A how-to would be appreciated :afro:

[tesna]

I did not fit them myself, mainly the work done by a workshop but I observe most of the build process. I use writeups on hidplanet.com's forum as my primary guide. From the mounting method, correct alignment, lens spacing to gain color, etc. Everything is there. Very very helpful.

First thing is open up the headlight lens plastic cover. I use heatgun to heat the sealants on the edges and use screwdriver to open up the plastic lens/cover. Then remove original low beam reflector.

Originally I use plastic sheet to mount the projector, as it's quite easy to cut and form and connect it to original reflector mounting screws so that I still can adjust the beam using factory adjustment screws. But after several days the projector mounting on one side of my headlight is broken. Therefore I use metal sheet and form it to hold the projector in place, but very painful process to cut and form the metal sheet.

To cover the gap around the projector I use 5mm thick plastic sheet and paint it black. I'm planning to add ccfl rings around the projector lens, currently I don't use parker lights.

[Johnny_Cashed]

Interesting Tesna, is the projector bi-xenon? Did you consider screwing the projector unit to the original reflector so you could still use the beam adjustment motors?

HID planet is a great site for this information. I'm trying at the moment to aquire a second Hella E55 bi-xenon projector from a W213 e-class so I have a matching pair to use in my own car. The only thing that concerns me is that my oven is not large enough to fit the whole headlamp unit in, and I am worried about cracking the glass using a heatgun.

[tesna]

No it's a single xenon. I don't have adjustment motors for my headlight. Btw, although I don't use original reflector to mount the projector, I'm still able to use original beam adjustment screws to adjust the beam (left-right, up-down) since I connect the custom made projector mount to original reflector mount screws.

Maybe if I found good deal on bi-xenon projectors I will replace them, or even mount it on high beam reflector location (quad projectors) :)

I only use the heatgun around the edges of the lens to heat up/melt the sealants. I've opened up my headlights several times and so far my lens still intact. Make sure you don't use excessive force though.

[Wodjno]

Thats a Sweet looking Mota :pimp2:

And for Ole Wodj to say that about a No Arse Saloon :speechles

Sweet /yes

Those wheels ? Are they 8" wide /Hmmm

[tesna]

thanks :)

it's just 7.5" wide, with 42 offset

[Turbo_Steve]

Tasty Fish!!!

[ersanalamin]

KHK, thanks :) Rear spoiler? you mean the wing we put at the top of the boot? If so, I don't really like it, I like my car simple.

Strizi, thanks :) I use yellow adjustable konis with H&R springs. Yeah it's low, I put 1 cm lower than the highest position (the spring support on the shock can be moved up and down).


LOL put the original VR4 spoiler on mine, dont you like it? he he he. It create downforce. I notice a big difference when I drove it on highway after installed. I bought it from CVR4 member in hongkong