HELP! Issues removing transfer case

[FNFAST VR4]

So I downloaded the instructions for removing my manual gearbox today. All went ok until the part about removing the transfer case...

I'm up to the part where it says the transfer case will easily come away.. to a point. Well its at that point and I'm not sure how to get it past that point!

I've tried levering it, wriggling it, a block of wood and a hammer...

I don't want to go breaking anything. So does anyone have any helpful advice?

We've packed up for the day as my flatmate is off to the rugby, and I'm going to see Weird Al. Hope to get back into it tomorrow...

[Nick Mann]

Find some bolts with the same thread, preferably longer, and put them through the threaded holes backwards. Then jack it off with the bolts and spacers. It may be pssible to do it with wedges and a hammer, but I'm not convinced I would want to do it this way!

[The Vee]

Havn't read the instructions you have but I'm guessing your stuck at the part where you need to have removed the drive shafts first. Thats especially the left hand side one. (these are the internal shafts just protruding from the transfer box with the splines on them. You'll need to insert a bolt (M8) i think into the thread provided at the end of the shaft and attach a slide hammer. Once the internal shafts are out, the case will come off easily. Check the spring circlips on the inner end of the shaft are still there when they come out. Oh, and lightly bolt the transfer box back to the gearbox when pulling the shafts out to get correct allignment.
Hope this helps, if I've misunderstood your problem by not reading the instructions to which you refer...sorry!!

[FNFAST VR4]

Thanks for your replies guys, hope to finish it today, but promised to do things for people who just didn't realise the enormity of the task I'm undertaking he he.

One of the perils of just being too damn nice!!!

[FNFAST VR4]

It still won't come off. Neither of the drive shafts are attached to it, and all the bolts are out, following the instructions from the members only section, it has come off to a point like it said it would, but we can't get it off any further. Has anyone who's actually done this encountered this problem?

[Gly]

last time i did this (well the only time ive done this)
we used 2 pry bars at 180degrees to each other and it eventally poped off.

[The Vee]

It still won't come off. Neither of the drive shafts are attached to it, and all the bolts are out, following the instructions from the members only section, it has come off to a point like it said it would, but we can't get it off any further. Has anyone who's actually done this encountered this problem?

When you say the driveshafts are removed do you mean the tranfer box to hub section or have you got the internal ones out of the transfer box itself. It is these that have the spring circlip on them which holds the transfer box about an inch from the gearbox when trying to pull against them. Nearside one is the offender. You probably can do it by Gly's method but be carefull not to damage the casing or bend the shaft if the weight of the transfer unit hangs on it.

[FNFAST VR4]

Sorry, in my haste I didn't read the replies properly:oops:

Got a mate dropping a slide hammer off tomorrow... hopefully it works!

Don't think I'm gonna get off lightly after this was attached to the drain plug on the gearbox....

Also, in the section of tailshaft I removed, one of the universal joints is easy to move about, the other one is not so free and easy, feels like there is some drag. Does it need attention as well?

uploaded/2931/1173603195.jpg

[wnwnwnw]

Be carefull!! there is abolt in the back bolting the transfer case to the engine. I brock mine whin I was trying to remove the gearbox.

you can see it if you look at the engine from the bottom.

[FNFAST VR4]

OK, I got the slide hammer at 9pm last night, and couldn't resist having a crack at removing the shaft from the transfer case. I've run into a problem though... the hole in the attachment that you can stick a screw/bolt through isn't big enough to take the thread of the bolt that fits into the end of the shaft.

It's so close its not funny, and if the tool was mine it would have been 'modified' by now!!

If I can't get it off this way I will have to try the two pry bars way...

Does anyone in Auckland have the tool I need, or have they done it before and could possibly give me a hand with this REALLY frustrating part?? I'd be eternally grateful /notworthy :iloveyou:

[Nick Mann]

Honestly - the easiest way is to put bolts through the threaded holes the wrong way and ease it off! One bolt at the top, one at the bottom.

[FNFAST VR4]

I'll find some bolts and give that a shot.

[FNFAST VR4]

Honestly - the easiest way is to put bolts through the threaded holes the wrong way and ease it off! One bolt at the top, one at the bottom.

I went and bought a couple of bolts, and lo and behold it popped off. Dude you rock!

Tomorrow nights mission, gearbox removal - the final phase...

[Nick Mann]

:thumbsup:

Glad it worked for you!

[FNFAST VR4]

I'm sorry to keep bugging you guys, but the instructions say to remove the six fly wheel bolts. On first inspection they looked to be double hex bolts. On closer inspection they appear to have only ten sides!

Is there an easy way to remove them, do I need to go somewhere in particular and buy a special socket or something?

ARGH so close and yet so far!!!

[Nick Mann]

Sorry - can't help. The auto has four six sided bolts. Never seen a ten sided bolt before.

[FNFAST VR4]

I've never seen them either, the dude at repco scoured the catalogues and couldn't find anything either...:huh2:

Back to the drawing board for now...

[You See]

Try Enco on Harris Rd, East Tamaki...you'll be amazed what they'll have! :D

[FNFAST VR4]

I live just up the road from there! (Away from Otara thank you very much:laugh:) Do you know if they are open on weekends?

I REALLY need to get this sorted. I am driving an 89 prelude and its driving me insane! Uses almost as much gas as the VR4, and I am sure you will all agree nowhere near as much fun!

Wouldn't be quite so bad if it would just stop bunny hopping!

[FNFAST VR4]

Most help the tool shops can offer is something called a gator grip?? Its a big socket full of pins, thats supposed to grip ANY bolt... Yes its entirely too big for this exercise! Other than that a coal (sp?) chisel and a hammer...

Heres a pic of what they look like. My prelude is now overheating, I need my trusty VR4 back on the road :bigcry:

Has anyone seen these before? They have ten points, and are kind of rounded, not pointed. Its getting to the point where I'm gonna throw in the towel and pay a mobile mechanic to come and finish the job!

Am I even looking in the right place? I've removed the little window at the back of the flywheel, at the bottom the engine...

Sorry about the quality of the pic, its hard to take photos with the cell phone when you can't see the screen!

uploaded/2931/1174897450.jpg

[Nick Mann]

You are looking at the right thing, IMO. You are definitely looking in the right area.

Can't a Mitsubishi dealer sell you a tool?

[mpau009]

Do you actually need the flywheel off? I was watching Dickytim pull out Kenneths gearbox a couple of weeks ago, and they managed to get it off without dropping the flywheel. If it does have to come off, it might be easier with the box out of the way?

Or have you already done that, and just cant get the flywheel off?

Im not up to speed on this stuff, but they might be the people to ask

[FNFAST VR4]

I'm using Dickytims instructions, and they say to remove the six bolts on the flywheel, so I just assumed they had to come out.

It comes down the shaft to a point, then stops. We've tried all sorts of angle changing and whatnot, but it won't budge any further. Its so frustrating cos its so nearly out.

I can try mitsubishi I guess. I'll contact them tomorrow and see what they say.

[mpau009]

Would it be anything to do with the clip mentioned in this thread?

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11086&page=2&highlight=clutch+clip

Sorry I cant really help, but i know that there was a thread floating around here somewhere, they found it, pushed a clip - i think through the clutch lever thingy hole on the top front(/pan), and hey presto it was off:scholar: That was about the limit of my note taking abilities.

Hopefully one of them will be along to help out, otherwise you could PM them.

[mpau009]

Ah haa, pretty sure i found it burried in the depths of CVR4:inquisiti , looks like they were having the exact same issue as you.

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16467&highlight=remove+clutch

[FNFAST VR4]

I'm so trying that tomorrow night! Thanks man!!

[dickytim]

if you hold the clutch fork towards the back of the gear box there is a criclip that you need to flick off with a screwdriveronce this is done the clutch fork will move all the way forward, i.e. towards the engine it is then disconnected and the gearbox will come away, when I did my gearbox i had different bolts which were easilish to remove, this is however the slow hard way to do it, there is a PDF diagram in the site some where which shows you how to unclip the fork.

[Kenneth]

I think i have that PDF at home... ill try dig it up tonight.

[FNFAST VR4]

The prelude decided yesterday to dump all its water all over my driveway, so I had to spend time attempting to rectify that. By the time I could get to the VR4 it was getting a bit too dark and someone has 'tidied' away the charger for the only torch/light thing we have. So hopefully I will get to it tonight...

Seems like the universe is trying to keep me and my car apart!!!

Got prices from the gearbox shop for a rebuild yesterday... between $1200 and $1500 + GST depending whats wrong with it, and between $700 and $1500 + GST for a new clutch depending on performance level required.

Putting in an evo clutch seems to be a popular thing to do, what are the advantages of that? I guess they'd be more hardy than the VR4 ones as evo's are built more for all out speed and acceleration...

I have plans to replace my turbo's for bigger ones (seen that on here too, got me all inspired it did!) so a clutch with a bit of balls would probably be in order!

[bradc]

where abouts are you located in Auckland? Some of us might be able to pop out and see what we can do this weekend.

[FNFAST VR4]

I'm out Pakuranga/Botany way. I'll have a go with the screwdriver/clutch fork and let you guys know how it goes.

Thanks heaps for all your help and advice so far! I really appreciate it.

[FNFAST VR4]

Insert screwdriver here, turn 90 degrees and Bob's your mothers brother!

Thanks for everyones advice and whatnot. I m not totally inept with a socket set, but since doing my automotive course the only modern car I have done any serious work on was a 91 Nissan Silvia, and that was a full engine rebuild.

Now I've just got to decide where to take it to get fixed. Any suggestions??

Here are some pics of the end result, I'm guessing that much oil isn't a good thing!?!?! And the clutch is almost at the rivets as well, so wouldn't have been far off needing to be replaced.

uploaded/2931/1175307075.jpg


uploaded/2931/1175307108.jpg

[bradc]

Ralliart would be my first suggestion, they are on Olive Rd in Penrose and know what they're doing.

[RogerRally]

if you hold the clutch fork towards the back of the gear box there is a criclip that you need to flick off with a screwdriveronce this is done the clutch fork will move all the way forward, i.e. towards the engine it is then disconnected and the gearbox will come away, when I did my gearbox i had different bolts which were easilish to remove, this is however the slow hard way to do it, there is a PDF diagram in the site some where which shows you how to unclip the fork.
using a chunky screwdiver to spring the release bearing away from the clutch can cause damage to the spring retaining clip. make sure your replacement clutch kit comes witha new one before forcefull removal.
You can get at the bolts that held the clutch cover on to the flywheel, through the square hole if the arm is held out the way, and turn the crank round, to spin the flywheel by turning with a socket set at the pulley end of the engine. The clutch then stays on the splines when removing engine from gearbox. This is what I do if doing a clutch change.

well done in persevering