Suspension help required

[Slimshady]

I have just ordered some lowering springs to fix my height problem – hopefully I will change them this weekend.

Dry run with old suspension has not gone to plan, using spring compressors I have clamped the springs down and tried to remove the top nut with no success, although I have not clamped the strut in a vice or used an extension bar + old units are a bit rusty.

Would a vice damage the strut under clamping (even soft jaw)?

Should I crack the nut before completely removing them from the car?

Sorry for all the questions perhaps I can take a couple of photos when trying to replace them to aid the next lowering suspension victim.

Thanks in advance

Slim

[Kenneth]

Looking at the top of your suspension (from engine bay or rear of car) you should see a nut and a reasonable amount of thread from the shock rod.
That threaded rod SHOULD have a flattened top. You get an adjustable spanner and use that to hold the top of the rod while using another spanner to crack/turn the nut.

[ANTHONY]

try this ..it worked for me.
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18877

[Slimshady]

That seriously helps – thanks chaps

[Kieran]

Just to add that both my Galants have put up a fight with that sodding nut and both times I've had to dremel through the fecker after clamping the springs. If I do it again, I was going to try a different approach and 'crack' the nut whilst it's still in situ - I figure the weight of the car will help keep things still whilst you fight with it. It's not funny having to be forceful with a nut that's the only thing between you and the coil spring if your compressors fail!/Grrr

[Gly]

yeh ive had to cut one on my old leggy,
and both the rears on the new one so i could use the shocks for the old one and some lowering springs.

[scc]

Should that top nut be tightened ALL the way down?
:thinking:


Cheers,
scc

[Wodjno]

Should that top nut be tightened ALL the way down?
:thinking:


Cheers,
scc

Yes ... All the way down /yes

In answer to Slim... I have used a decent pair of MoleGrips to clamp the flat bit at the top and have had no issues in getting the nut undone.. But always before i attempt to undo any nuts on the VR, i wire brush and WD40 the thread.. It onlt takes a minute and can stop alot of Heartache :pimp2:

[scc]

Yes ... All the way down /yes

What happens if they are not ALL the way down? e.g. a couple of threads out :inquisiti

Cheers,
scc

[Kieran]

Should that top nut be tightened ALL the way down?
:thinking:


Cheers,
scc

I guess so. What I do is wind it on and then just use the torque wrench. Everytime I've done so both nuts have ended up level.

[Wodjno]

What happens if they are not ALL the way down? e.g. a couple of threads out :inquisiti

Cheers,
scc

Question ??

Why are they a couple of threads out.. ??

[scc]

Question ??

Why are they a couple of threads out.. ??

Spring compressors were at their limit....:(

Cheers,
scc

[Davezj]

doesn't the nut on the middle thread set the preload on the spring. the furter down the thread the nut is the higher the preload and the stiff and lower the car rides.

I am sure on standard suspention it is not ment to be used link this but it will have the same effect. obviously you don't want to make the thread to come out through the bonnet though.

When i took my lowering springs off standard shocks there was a lot of thread to wind the nut up to get the springs off.

Just a thought.

What should these nuts be set to, thread wise from the top of the thraed.

does anyone else agree with this

[Wodjno]

doesn't the nut on the middle thread set the preload on the spring. the furter down the thread the nut is the higher the preload and the stiff and lower the car rides.

I am sure on standard suspention it is not ment to be used link this but it will have the same effect. obviously you don't want to make the thread to come out through the bonnet though.

When i took my lowering springs off standard shocks there was a lot of thread to wind the nut up to get the springs off.

Just a thought.

What should these nuts be set to, thread wise from the top of the thraed.

does anyone else agree with this

There is no adjustable preload on standard VR4 shocks..

As i already stated above, the nut should be tightened all the way down.. It should be tourqued to 23Nm..

If the Nuts are not sitting level and they are all the way down ! Then the shock absorber parts have not been put back together in the correct sequence or some part has been left out... :thinking: If something has been left out, it will probably have a rattle or maybe a knock if going over pot holes and the like ??

Stephen.. Not being able to compress the springs far enough won't make a difference to the final postion of the top nut.. As once the shock is in position on the car, it will be possible to tighten it right down (23nm) and left and right threads should be level...

[scc]

Stephen.. Not being able to compress the springs far enough won't make a difference to the final postion of the top nut.. As once the shock is in position on the car, it will be possible to tighten it right down (23nm) and left and right threads should be level...

Cheers! I'll check this weekend. I may need to add weight to the car to push the springs down far enough to expose the untightened threads.

(Sorry for the thread hijack!)

Cheers,
scc

[Kenneth]

Cheers! I'll check this weekend. I may need to add weight to the car to push the springs down far enough to expose the untightened threads.

(Sorry for the thread hijack!)

Cheers,
scc

you don't need to expose the thread, just clamp the flat bit on top (vice grips or adjustable spanner... whatever floats your boat) and tighten the nut. This will cause the spring to compress if necessary.

[The Vee]

Wodg's post is spot on - they must be tightened down fully - there is no adjustment on standard suspension. There is a metal sleeve within the rubber bush to stop it collapsing when tight. Must be checked to make sure it's there when reassembling.
The top nuts can be a pain to release if corroded at all. The methods described can be used, there is also a special tool to grip the piston and undo the nut at the same time. As a last resort the pistin can be gripped by vice or grips but really as a last resort as the chrome may be damaged will will break the seal inside the damper if compression goes that far. Of course if replacing the shock then no probs - just muller it!!!
As a note never undo this nut without spring clamps fitted - damn obvious I know, but just a reminder!!

[Slimshady]

Ok done the front check this out (http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=234030#post234030)