Slimshady
18-03-2007, 01:06 AM
I changed the coils today – well the front ones, ran out of time because I helped a mate change all of his brakes and disks before I started.
Check out the photos – first shows the car way to high – V6 with fat VR4 suspension fitted (VR4 is ¼ tone heavier hence the lift) also running on the outer rims of the tyres.
16294
The second shows how to remove the old springs, I removed the anti-roll bar first then the bolt holding the bottom of the strut to the fork (note this is captive you have to completely remove the bolt) then the bolt at the bottom of the forks (big wrench required) and finally the 3 nuts holding the top of the strut to the car (under bonnet) hold the strut when doing this. Finally push the calliper part down to separate the strut from the fork. This thread (http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18877) is spot on, I deviated in the order of removal but all the same, all I am doing is adding to the detail and providing a couple more helpful hints. After removing the unit and trying to use a 14mm spanner + mould grips I eventually placed the flat of the strut in a vice, more grip than mould grips and undone the nut – don’t attempt to undo the nut with the suspension still on the car, the weight of the car will not help – use coil compressors to remove the forces + soak with WD40 for a while before you attempt to undo them. Note the forces involved in the photos – the coil compressors are bending please be careful when attempting this.
16295
16296
The next photo shows the order of assembly laid out on the floor.
16297
Difference between normal VR4 coils and V6 lowered coils
16298
16299
Now the tricky bit, putting it all back together, clamp the new coils down using coil compressors but do not make the same mistake as me, compressing the coil before reassembling i.e. place the strut into the spring and ensure the seat is correct (the bottom of the spring) place the gator on then use the coil compressors evenly to ensure the end is central. When you have compressed enough (place the end on periodically to check) assemble the top of the unit and screw the main nut on, before you remove the coil compressors ensure one of the 3 top bolts lines up vertically with the pip on the bottom of the suspension strut – I do not have a photo but this should be obvious, a small rectangular plate is welded to the bottom with a pip running vertically, this is not precision engineering, just as close as you can get it.
You should be looking at something like this:
16300
Now reverse the procedure to obtain wicked results – the car now has a couple of mm play on the front and I drove it home via lots of speed bumps (very slowly) and it just scrapes a on some.
16301
I have a squeaking sound from the offside – therefore more fun and games for tomorrow along with changing the rear – so yet more boring photos and engineers talk later.
Check out the photos – first shows the car way to high – V6 with fat VR4 suspension fitted (VR4 is ¼ tone heavier hence the lift) also running on the outer rims of the tyres.
16294
The second shows how to remove the old springs, I removed the anti-roll bar first then the bolt holding the bottom of the strut to the fork (note this is captive you have to completely remove the bolt) then the bolt at the bottom of the forks (big wrench required) and finally the 3 nuts holding the top of the strut to the car (under bonnet) hold the strut when doing this. Finally push the calliper part down to separate the strut from the fork. This thread (http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18877) is spot on, I deviated in the order of removal but all the same, all I am doing is adding to the detail and providing a couple more helpful hints. After removing the unit and trying to use a 14mm spanner + mould grips I eventually placed the flat of the strut in a vice, more grip than mould grips and undone the nut – don’t attempt to undo the nut with the suspension still on the car, the weight of the car will not help – use coil compressors to remove the forces + soak with WD40 for a while before you attempt to undo them. Note the forces involved in the photos – the coil compressors are bending please be careful when attempting this.
16295
16296
The next photo shows the order of assembly laid out on the floor.
16297
Difference between normal VR4 coils and V6 lowered coils
16298
16299
Now the tricky bit, putting it all back together, clamp the new coils down using coil compressors but do not make the same mistake as me, compressing the coil before reassembling i.e. place the strut into the spring and ensure the seat is correct (the bottom of the spring) place the gator on then use the coil compressors evenly to ensure the end is central. When you have compressed enough (place the end on periodically to check) assemble the top of the unit and screw the main nut on, before you remove the coil compressors ensure one of the 3 top bolts lines up vertically with the pip on the bottom of the suspension strut – I do not have a photo but this should be obvious, a small rectangular plate is welded to the bottom with a pip running vertically, this is not precision engineering, just as close as you can get it.
You should be looking at something like this:
16300
Now reverse the procedure to obtain wicked results – the car now has a couple of mm play on the front and I drove it home via lots of speed bumps (very slowly) and it just scrapes a on some.
16301
I have a squeaking sound from the offside – therefore more fun and games for tomorrow along with changing the rear – so yet more boring photos and engineers talk later.