Japanese VR4 key fob

[phosty]

Hi,

I just received my new Legnum VR4 from Japan courtesy of AutoAdvan. When the car was delivered to me it only came with one key. This key seemed to have a little rubber button in the middle and right enough, when I took it apart I found a little pcb and battery (see attached photo).

My question is this - should it do anything? Because it doesn't!

From reading the forums here it seems the Japanese spec cars don't have immobilisers and alarms so would it have just been remote central locking?

If I get a spare key cut (spare blanks from here (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MITSUBISHI-GALANT-89-96-TWO-UNCUT-KEY-BLANKS-BLANK_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6755QQitemZ320011 466016QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V)) then will it still work (i.e. no immobiliser coils are the like).

Is it possible to get an after market alarm/immobiliser with fob that would access the remote central locking (if indeed the VR4 has it)?

Cheers, Phil

[Kieran]

My question is this - should it do anything? Because it doesn't!

Firstly - Welcome to Club VR-4! Not seen you on before, hope you find the site useful!:afro:

You're right That button is just for remote central locking - that's it. You're right that as standard these cars have no Anti-Theft devices. Apparently car stealing is much, much less common in Japan.

Changing the battery will probably sort that - not sure though... The PCB could be damaged?

And yes - Many CAT1 alarms can 'drive' the central locking system - a competent installer should have no problems with that.

[peter thomson]

Hi welcome to the club .I'm based in Alford but work in Aberdeen. Might see you around.

[bradc]

yeah it's the normal prefacelift remote locking key.

[phosty]

Thanks for the quick response guys!

I changed the battery but no luck. I noticed there was gunk over the microswitch so I tried cleaning it with PCB electrical cleaner. Still no luck. So then I tried prising open the microswitch button to see if I could clean the contacts inside (I have previously had sucess with similar buttons on my Pronto TV remote) - and the whole switch flew off. Ooops!

As my surface mount soldering skills are worse than my driving I think it's safe to say if it wasn't permanently broke before, it is now!

So, is it possible to get a replacement unit from Mitsubishi (can they extract codes or use the numbers in the key or check a database) or would it be cheaper and faster to get a CAT1 alarm installer to give me the same functionality? How much would I be looking at do you think?

At least you seem to have confirmed that there is no immobiliser which means I can get a spare key cut presumably anywhere?

Cheers, Phil

[Nick VR4]

I would say you really need both done, the key for backup just incase the fob stops working
I'm guessing a CAT 1 Alarm is about £250 installed :speechles key no idea

[White Lightning]

A bit late now but I have the same key (only one) and the rubber button on mine is damaged like yours and as a result it is very hard to activate the switch. I have found that putting an appropriately sized cut piece of padding in behind the rubber switch helps a treat and got my fob working again :thumbsup:

[Davezj]

you can buy key blanks from ebay cost me £4 for 2 blanks then cutting cost at timpsons or equivilent. they will try to read from original key and program the new key as they think tey know best, they don't. it definitly does not have an immobiliser as standard

Dave

[unclepete]

I've got a locksmith mate, who cut me a key. He can do them for very little and do much more complicated stuff besides. He is based in Stirling so if you are ever round this way, he might be of some use? I'll give you his number if you need it.

[phosty]

Thanks guys,

I ordered a couple of blanks off ebay so I will get some spares made up local. I also went to the Mitsubishi dealer in Aberdeen and requested a replacement key with central locking button - they said they would be able to extract the codes from the ECU or maybe put the new key code into the car ? Anyway, they reckoned they could give me a working remote central locking key. Cost - £109 + VAT. Pricey but cheaper than an aftermarket solution - the cheapest I could get was £119 + £42.50 for a driver side lock slave motor to frig the central locking due to the partial factory system that Mitsubishi fit.

Was then shocked to find out that a replacement passenger side front wheel arch splash guard / shield kit was going to cost £84 + VAT!! It's just a flimsy bit of plastic....

This isn't going to be a cheap hobby!

[Wouter]

But then you still won't have an alarm or imobiliser... so then 109 + vat is very expensive....

[Davezj]

get a cat 1 alarm and immobiliser fitted for about £240 this will give you the remote central locking and most insurers insist on a cat 1 package before they will touch you car on insurance, or it will bring the price down by the difference in the cost of the cat 1 and you have the added security.

[Paul Beazer]

Welcome to the club and congrats onthe choice of car.

TBH Im amazed you could get insurance without a CAT1 alarm (or any alarm), as any quotes i've had seemed almost to insist on a CAT1.

PICs of the car please!

[mr.bonya]

Hi,
Just out of interest... how long did it take Autoadvan to ship the car over here? I have placed an order with them in Feb and they are being very slow.

[unclepete]

Any competent locksmith (tricky to find) can do what Mitsubishi has said they can do. And my pal charges a third of that amount, max.

However, it looks like it's best to just do as everyone's suggesting and get an alarm at the same time.

[AncientOfMu]

Welcome to the club and congrats onthe choice of car.

TBH Im amazed you could get insurance without a CAT1 alarm (or any alarm), as any quotes i've had seemed almost to insist on a CAT1.

PICs of the car please!

My insurance is Fully Comp Protected NCB at £330 a year. And my '96 leggie has just standard security as it came from Japan...

[phosty]

AutoAdvan have been great actually. I won the car in Bayside Auctions on 23rd November 2006 (267,000 Yen). Because I live in Aberdeen I asked them to ship the car to either Liverpool or Newcastle. Both of those locations have fewer ships than Southampton and I just missed one sailing. Plus with the Xmas holidays it didn't sail till end of January. It arrived in Liverpool 11th March 2007 and I used a Dealer Plate service to get it to Oldham (my Dads) to get it MOT'd.

There was a slight hiccup with the customs forms at Salford but that was due more to Barratt Shipping (who organise the shippings for AutoAdvan) sending the declarations to the wrong dept. However I got the papers back on the 23rd March and promptly sent em off to the DVLA in Aberdeen. Got my tax disc the following Thursday. So 4 mths in total. Next time I would say ship to Southampton but that's hindsight for you.

AutoAdvan also translated all the engine bay stickers so in effect I have a pretty good service history including the all important timing belt. I usually dealt with Terence or Tony. Say hello to them for me if you speak with them.

I got it insured with Performance Direct: £398 Fully Comp, 4 yrs NCB. They said it makes no difference to them if it has an immobiliser or alarm (maybe too old or too low in value ~ £3100).

Anyway, I have bad experience of alarms - they annoy neighbours during the night and are difficult to move to another car. I was looking at one of these devices instead:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Textracker-a-GPS-Vehicle-Tracking-System-NO-Fees_W0QQitemZ190042243019QQcategoryZ75329QQcmdZVi ewItem

Not cheap but I like the idea of sending a text and getting the location back if it is ever taken. Plus it's easy to move from car to car (plus I'm into gadgets).

[phosty]

Oh - pics of the car on my homepage (click on the dropdown list under my forum ID).

[White Lightning]

Did anyone ever manage to work out if we can get hold of the replacement rubber part seperately?

It's just that my "fix" I suggested in post #7 only lasted a few weeks until said piece of padding collapsed and I have been locking and unlocked the car with the key ever since. It would be sooo nice to have the remote locking back. I am pretty certain I could fix mine with a replacement rubber part ....

[phosty]

Try asking mitsubishi? They are usualy pretty helpful.

Alternatively, try a breakers (or Mo?) to see if they have a jap spec key you could canabalise?

Rowley autos (via PartsGateway) seem to specialise in Mitsubishi's too.

[matt25649]

If you can get another key that can remote unlock another car (same type of mitsi key) it is pretty simple to program it can post instructions if you want. I found a key from a wrecking yard, also you can set it up so two different keys can remote unlock it

[Beastlee]

Matt, please post the details as I want to get mine working and I'm not sure if it just needs re-programming.


For anyone else reading this thread I have found some Galant Flip Keys on the German eBay that come complete with lock/unlock buttons and an interface for the car. They're on for around €15-20 + postage which of course is cheaper in GBP. I'm interested in one as I like the flip keys anyway.

[Beastlee]

Well I just openend my fob up, after breaking through the superglued casing, and found the start of my problem. The battery is missing as is the little bit of metal that sits in the opposite half of the casing, although I think I found that loitering int he car the other day and wondered what it was...

Can anyone tell me the model of the battery so I can attempt to get one, if not I may take a chance on one of the fleabay ones and see how I fare.

[justslow]

CR 1616 should do the job sir.

[matt25649]

From memory its a cr2032,

To re-programme earth out pin 1 on the mut plug, within 10 seconds of this flick the key to acc on for 1 second then off for 1 second 3 times, then the doors will lock then unlock by themselves. Now press your key 3 times within 10 seconds the doors then lock and unlock by themselves again. Remove the earth and test it.

[Beastlee]

Thanks for the info, I have definitely retrieved the extra metal bit for the other side of the battery too. Thought I'd mention I had a load of green gunk alla round the switch too so this could be either something leaking out or moisture getting in.

Matt it can't be a CR2032 as that is too big, I have about 6 of them too which is annoying!

Slow, that looks right from what I have seen on the net. Now just need to get one and see if we're in business.

[White Lightning]

CR 1616 should do the job sir.

Yep, it's a CR1616 3V jobbie ... I have just taken mine apart to check for you. I am popping down to Mitsi at lunchtime so I will see if they can help me with my rubber button ...

[matt25649]

yeah your right cr 1616

[Beastlee]

mmmm rub..:lipseal :coat

If you have no joy and I can't get mine working I can send you mine over. I'll probably just get one of the cheap aftermarket kits with a flipkey.

[phosty]

Beastlee, those flip keys sound interesting. Can you post a picture or link to them?

I know when I purchased my new key from Mitsubishi that the guy had some problems finding the correct method for registering the new key to the car. Apparently it was different for the Jap Spec VR4 than the regular UK Galant.

They figured it out eventually but charged me 45 mins - sounds like it should take just 2mins!

If it's as easy as Matt25649 describes to register the key to the car I might be very tempted by the flip key option.

My new import as usual only came with a single non-button key. I might try coding the fob from my previous car on the new car via the method as posted. At least then I will be able to confirm if it's something we can do ourselves.

I assume the pairing with the old car wouldn't be affected either?

[Beastlee]

The ones I can get are designed as an aftermarket unit. You get an additional electronic box of tricks that interfaces with the original electrics. An example of one is :
http://cgi.ebay.de/FFB-Klappschluessel-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-Galant-L200-L300_W0QQitemZ180217816935QQihZ008QQcategoryZ14265 QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
You would want Mit #02 for our cars. It's one of the more expensive ones but I picked it as you get plenty of text with clear pictures. You can translate the text at http://www.freetranslation.com.

[White Lightning]

Well, I popped to Mitsi in Reading at lunchtime today to pick up a couple of bits and while I was there I asked if the could get hold of a replacement rubber part. I asked in front of three people just in case of said "oh yeah, I've got one in my drawer" or similar. But, the answer was no, you have to buy a complete new key ... which is ... wait for it ...

...


...


...


£112 plus VAT

I was laughing all the way back to work /lol

[phosty]

Matt25649 , can you confirm that the key pairing method you detailed above works for Jap Spec VR4's?

I tried it today on my new import using the keyfob from my old import - nothing!

I had the Evoscan plug in the MUT connector so that the dash lights all flash the error codes etc.

Then tried turning to ACC then OFF 3 times - nothing. The locks did not cycle?

I also tried it with just the pin 1 of the MUT plug grounded (rather than using the Evoscan cable) - nothing.

??

[Beastlee]

I got a battery yesterday and the fob works, alebit you have to press the button fairly hard.
My biggest problem is that it will only unlock the car at the moment and doesn't affect the driver's door. This is probably related to my problem with the speakers in that door. I noticed in the service history that Colchester Mitsi re-tightenend the door strap on that side last year so I figure they may have disturbed the loom, possibly even damaged it.

[phosty]

Matt25649 - any revised info on the key pairing procedure?

Or has anyone else managed to pair keys by another method?

[elnevio]

Another 'dig-up-a-thread-from-the-past', although it is at least the recent past.

I have seen these flip keys on the US eBay for around a tenner after conversion and shipping. I only have one key, which is the standard single-button remote locking key. AFAIK, there is no immobiliser or other transponder in the key fob, so just getting a flip key (or other key blank) should work ok. My immobiliser is part of the CAT1 Toad alarm.

Basically, I think I am right in saying that the flip key, once cut, will work the ignition?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MITSUBISHI-3000-GTFLIP-KEY-KEY-BLANK-POP-UP-BLADE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em122QQcate goryZ40016QQihZ020QQitemZ300220205062QQrdZ1QQsspag enameZWD2V

[Beastlee]

They should work fine once cut. ebay.de has them with a remote interface for those like me who currently have nothing but the original key.

[phosty]

From memory its a cr2032,

To re-programme earth out pin 1 on the mut plug, within 10 seconds of this flick the key to acc on for 1 second then off for 1 second 3 times, then the doors will lock then unlock by themselves. Now press your key 3 times within 10 seconds the doors then lock and unlock by themselves again. Remove the earth and test it.

I think I have to apologise to Matt25649 - this procedure does actually work. However, for the full details people should refer to Page 42-56 of the Workshop Manual.

It gives a few extra details which in my case prevented it working at first - namely that all doors must be closed for the secret code registration to work (I had my leg stuck outside the door originally).

Now I have the bizarre situation where my one working fob opens up both my cars. Duh!!

[Beastlee]

Just thought I'd clarify my finidngs, it was damaged wiring stopping mine working properly.

FOr those who find they need to push the button really hard to make it work it's actually when you release that it triggers. The reason it doesn't always work is because Mitsi didn't do a great job of siting the aerial. Also remember that it won't work if you have a door(including boot) open.

[SiliconAngel]

Series 2 keys are available for around ¥10,500 from Mitsubishi Japan - I got my new key earlier this week. I'll link it up once the car's back on the road. Further details here (http://clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=344209).

[ianturbo]

how can i tell if mine had remote locking ?only got keys with no fob/button on ? is there a control box or someting somewere ????
ian

[SiliconAngel]

Check in CAPS if you've got the Keyless Entry Receiver in your car, part number MR438843, CAPS reference number 82649. I think it's mounted in the centre console, but the CAPS diagram isn't very specific.

[Hotwire]

Trev - have you got any more idea of the location rather than just "centre console" Reason I ask is if I get an aftermaket transmitter from Jaycar, I want to wire it ot the existing loom if I can.

[SiliconAngel]

You won't need to replace the existing receiver (if you have one), just splice into the central locking system harness directly. Any aftermarket system should have instructions for how to go about it, then you just need to work out which wires you need coming out of the driver's door.

But just so you can look for the built in receiver if you're keen, here's a copy of the diagram from CAPS:

uploaded/51083/1214456889.gif

As you can see, the received is located in position 'A'.

Now you know as much as I do ;)

[Hotwire]

I wasn't going to replace the reciever as such, but getting to the wiring in the console is probably going to be easier than trying to find +ve power in the door I would imagine.