Oil Filter.

[fredfour4]

What is the difference between oil filter (Part No: MD356000 and MD322508).
The reason for asking is:
When I bought the VR4 it had on the clock 80000 miles that was 08/09/06
I gave it an oil and filter change at 84500. The oil filter that was on ther was a MD? about 4" long. The oil filter from the Mitsi dealer looked the same. It then developed the lash adjuster tick on start up and would then stop ticking

Then a full service and complete with all fluids + auto fluid, cambelt etc at Lind Mitsubishi Colchester at 89000 miles. The oil filter fitted was MD322508. The lash adjuster tick was still there

Now at 93500 miles I have change the oil and filter.
Then after doing this I noticed that the No on the oil filter was MD356000.
So I started it up. No tick ! The engine run fine.

I looked up the No: on the net and both of these numbers are for a galant.

So what is the difference?

[amsoil]

Filters are a complete subject in their own right. Unfortunately very few filter manufacturers make the specs available and even fewer car manufacturers ; guess they just buy in and badge the filter + double the price!
Differences are drain back valves or not, bypass valves and at what pressure diferential, the obvious height and diameter + the less obvious seal inner and outer diameter, whether the edge is single or double rolled and finally what the 'media' ie the filtering bit actually is and what size of particle it can filter with what efficiency. Good luck.

[Davezj]

Here is the big question, was the same oil used at each change as this obviously make a massive difference to the state of the Tick noise.

Be interested to here your response.

Dave

[Davezj]

It has taken a bit of time to do but here is the result.

sorry it is a little bit vague with regard part numbers but you will get the idea.

i have always had the long thin oil filters on my 96 leggie VR4 halfords own filter, with 5W/30 semi synth. Absolutly no lash adjuster noise at all.

got an oil filter from camskill, short fat type, mitsi part No. on the side MD???? (genuine mitsi part and the correct one listed for the car), changed my oil at this point as well (as you would do) with fully synth 0W-30. loads of lash adjuster noise right from the first start up after the change. it now occurs mostly at inital starting of the engine when cold, and for a few minutes afterwards. no real problems there as most of our car do this, but why should it start now. sometimes it will make the tic, tic, tic noise when you stop at a set of lights as well.

thought it could be due to going to a thiner oil, but still I was not a happy bunny.

just to try something out. i have changed the oil filter back to a long thin type haldfords own. and so far no lash adjuster noise at all. did this on saturday morning so not do many miles on it , but still no tic, tic, tic, at all.
I woud have got it every time i stated the engine with the other filter.

I will post the filter numbers when i get the chance. i kept the old mitsi one for just this perpose it's in the shed and raining so i will leave it till later.

i will post again in a week or so with an update. on the noise.

Dave

[Davezj]

well the rain stopped,

What a surprise, the mitsi part no of the oil filter that made the lash aduster noise is the same as the number posted above, it is MD322508.

i don't want everbody jumping to conclusion but i will not be buying one of these again.

can someone else confirm this for me.

if you have just changed you oil and have the lash adjuster noise, change you filter for a halfords own long thin one and see what it happens. it costs £5 and can be done in 10 min, and could stop you Tic, Tic, Tic, at least you will be able to confirm or not, my findings.

if nobody want to try it then i will update this post in a week and let you know if the noise returns.

dave

[amsoil]

Quite interesting, I have just looked up the Amsoil filter specs for the VR4 and note that the bypass valve opening pressure differential is the highest they do, being 18 - 20 PSID . Assuming that this is the same for Mitsis own it would mean that there can be a 20 psi drop across the filter before the bypass valve opens. This leads onto some rather large assumptions here.... Now Mitzi made the short oil change intervals knowing that people would use mineral oil which would break down (the highest standard was much lower over 10 years ago than it is now) The broken oil would not protesct well and would have 'bits' in it. The bypass rating was set very high to make sure that the old contaminated oil would have to go through the filter in all cases except those which might lead to catastrophic failure ie better to have less flow than flow with no filtering.
Now this in turn begs the following question of the Halford filter:- what is its bypass valve rated at? if it is very much lower ie less than half or even a third of the (guessed) Mitzi value of 18-20 PSID then with the routing of an oil cooler and the consequential pressure loss you may find that the filter is never really operating with a closed bypass valve. At best it will be fluttering with each flutter allowing just enough oil through unfiltered to balance the pressure differential including the pressure of the bypass spring! So in essence your oil might not be getting filtered properly because the bypass value is very low. I could of course be wrong here but what you report appears to fit in with this and is interesting. Well it is to me anyway.
Next time perhaps try an Amsoil filter which flows 5 times better than 'normal' filters and see if the same problem is evident, I would be very interested in the results of that.
As I said before , filters are a complete subject on there own !

[Davezj]

OK how much for a amsoil filter. i have seen them on your performance oils site before but never bought one. can you give me the part no then i can order one and try it.

I woulld like to try the amsoil filter soon rather than later so the conditions in the engine do not change. I can swap filters in and out without changing the oil, i may have to top it up though but it is only a few hundred miles old anyway so that should not be an issue. if i do it now the changing oil condition is not going to be a factor. i know this would not be the normal thing to do but it is an experiment.

I was going to put the mitsi filter back in after a week of the halfords one to see if the noise comes back. to confirm my findings.



Cheers

Dave

[amsoil]

Sorry wasn't trying to do a hard sell at all, just interested in what you were saying and the implications. If you want I will send you a filter tomorrow and you pay me if it does the business, if you say it doesn't then dont no probs. The cost is £14.20 (you get what you pay for ) forget the post I'm just interested in what happens.

[Davezj]

Sorry wasn't trying to do a hard sell at all, just interested in what you were saying and the implications. If you want I will send you a filter tomorrow and you pay me if it does the business, if you say it doesn't then dont no probs. The cost is £14.20 (you get what you pay for ) forget the post I'm just interested in what happens.

No hardsell taken!

Let me do my inital checks and i will get back to you, i will run for a week with halfords filter, then change back, then i will post results, and if it all stacks up i will give you a shout a take you up on you offer of the amsoil filter.

Does that sound ok!

Cheers Dave

However there is still this other Mitsi filter MD356000. i don't know what the difference is?

[amsoil]

Yes No probs Let us know what happens

[MarkSanne]

this is interesting stuff here! I ordered a new set of lash adjusters from PRIracing two weeks ago (not in yet) but reading this topic it just might be the oil-filter?!! I'll have the uprated lash adjusters installed anyways, but before I'll do that, I want to test out this oil-filter thing myself as well.

@AMSOIL: could you provide me the partnumber please? I'll order it right away!

[amsoil]

Amsoil filter numbers on the Performance Oils web site here http://performanceoilsltd.co.uk/super_duty_oil_filter.html and you will need SDF-20 for the V6 and SDF-13 for the 4 cylinder models. What you will get will be EAO20 or EAO13 which is Amsoils new super filter http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/eao.aspx The web site hasn't been changed because not all the filters have changed over as yet. If you look at the last link you will see that what has been done is to use very much finer filaments in the filtering media, so fine that the media itself needs supporting. This gives more and finer holes for the oil to pass. End result is better filtering (smaller holes) better flow (more holes) and better longevity (more holes to get blocked up) Simply the best filter around.
Now I don't believe that any filter can be the be all and end all of everyones problems. I'm sure that it will vary from car to car and be a combo of lifter wear, small oil gallery blockage, small hole in lifter blockage + poor oil / filter. I have also seen pics (some where on another site) of the old lifters being removed and a drill used to clean the sludge blocking the hole in the lifter itself. Guess it can get that bad. What I believe is that its clearly a 'weak point' given the age of the cars now added with the less than top oils they are likely to have had during their lifetime. All I can really say is that many members appear to have had some success using Amsoil TSO 0w-30 and 5w-30 + Amsoil filter. Now no oil can put metal back where it is worn away but Amsoil is quite famous for stripping the crap away and giving the best lubrication available whilst resisting being broken down by the turbo environment.
Bottom line on the filter bit is that all filters cause a pressure drop however small (as does an oil cooler etc) If the pressure drop is sufficient to open the bypass valve because its a low strength one ) you will get better flow and pressure to the bearings than you would have done but without the filtering (which may perversely be the difference between tapping or not) If the bypass valve pressure is high, then you rely on flow through the filter to minimise the pressure drop, the better the filter flow then the smaller the pressure drop. The advantage here is that the oil will be filtered which is the only recommended way I’m sure. All IMHO of course

[I-S]

...and you will need SDF-20 for the V6 and SDF-13 for the 4 cylinder models.

Don - this is not correct. SDF-13 is for the 2.0, whilst the 2.4 4 cylinder will use SDF-20 (as it shares the filter with the V6).

[amsoil]

Wrists suitably slapped. Thanks Isaac /pan


Don - this is not correct. SDF-13 is for the 2.0, whilst the 2.4 4 cylinder will use SDF-20 (as it shares the filter with the V6).

[MarkSanne]

My goodness!! Just added two products into my shopping basket, but...56 pounds for 5 litres of oil!! any chance for a promotional (CVR4 :3d: discount) code?

[I-S]

It's in the member's area.

[Davezj]

10% i believe.

[Davezj]

This bypass valve is in the filter and if the filter gets blocked (worst case) then this is the fail safe which allows the oil that flows into the filter to flow strainght back out without going through the filter media itself.

is that right?

[MarkSanne]

oh bummer! can't select another country but UK!!!

[bradc]

Very interested in hearing the result on this one, wouldn't it be amazing if a particular filter would solve most of the tick tick ticking?

Rep points given to you Dave, nice work :D

[MarkSanne]

Ordered an Amsoil filter & oil yesterday, with the kind help of Don. I'll post my results here as well as I'm just too curious to sit and wait for others to come up with results.

[pitslayer]

my galant ticks with now with every fluid, any chance of
5litres of oil
brake fluid
gearbox oil
filters
powersteering fluid everysingle one of these ticks, any chance of all that free(its worth a shot lol)

but seriously, my galant ticked like buggery, then i gashed my sump open and lost all my oil.....so with much regret i had to put my 5ltrs of amsoil in, i wanted to engine flush before using amsoil....so filled it back up with amsoil, and put the heavy duty filter on....ticking stopped, its coming back now, but its done 6000miles since so its due for oil and filter change, might do that later today with an engine flush, but amsoil is teh **** if i could afford it i would put it in again definatly best oil ive ever bought and top customer service. i ordered mine, and payed by cheque, the oil was here in 2 days, didnt even wait for my cheque to arrive or clear, awesome customer serivce....and it does actually work..... and he is right you get whay you pay for.

[Davezj]

NO Tic, Tic, Tic, yet.

i will keep updateing untill i change back to the short fat mitsi filter at the weekend.

Dave

[pitslayer]

Tic Tic Tic Tic BOOOM!!!!!

[Davezj]

Still no Tic, Tic ,Tic.

add diffinately no BOOM!!!!.

[phosty]

Davezj, what was the Halfords Oil Filter part no? 225 or 226? They seem to list both at the Parts Desk.

[Davezj]

it is the tall thin one, it was the only one i saw list for a galant.
I can't see the number on the filter as it is towards the engine, but i am pritty sure it is the 226.

I can tell you for diffinate after the weekend as will swap back to the other one to see if the results are repeatable.

By the way still no Tic, Tic, Tic.

I will take it out for a good hard run on friday night and then leave it to stand with engine off for 30min and then start it again. which seem to be the worst time for the Tic, Tic, Tic, after the engine has got really hot and then left to drain the oil back into the sump.

[Davezj]

Amsoil filter numbers on the Performance Oils web site here http://performanceoilsltd.co.uk/super_duty_oil_filter.html and you will need SDF-20 for the V6 and SDF-13 for the 4 cylinder models. What you will get will be EAO20 or EAO13 which is Amsoils new super filter http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/eao.aspx The web site hasn't been changed because not all the filters have changed over as yet. If you look at the last link you will see that what has been done is to use very much finer filaments in the filtering media, so fine that the media itself needs supporting. This gives more and finer holes for the oil to pass. End result is better filtering (smaller holes) better flow (more holes) and better longevity (more holes to get blocked up) Simply the best filter around.
Now I don't believe that any filter can be the be all and end all of everyones problems. I'm sure that it will vary from car to car and be a combo of lifter wear, small oil gallery blockage, small hole in lifter blockage + poor oil / filter. I have also seen pics (some where on another site) of the old lifters being removed and a drill used to clean the sludge blocking the hole in the lifter itself. Guess it can get that bad. What I believe is that its clearly a 'weak point' given the age of the cars now added with the less than top oils they are likely to have had during their lifetime. All I can really say is that many members appear to have had some success using Amsoil TSO 0w-30 and 5w-30 + Amsoil filter. Now no oil can put metal back where it is worn away but Amsoil is quite famous for stripping the crap away and giving the best lubrication available whilst resisting being broken down by the turbo environment.
Bottom line on the filter bit is that all filters cause a pressure drop however small (as does an oil cooler etc) If the pressure drop is sufficient to open the bypass valve because its a low strength one ) you will get better flow and pressure to the bearings than you would have done but without the filtering (which may perversely be the difference between tapping or not) If the bypass valve pressure is high, then you rely on flow through the filter to minimise the pressure drop, the better the filter flow then the smaller the pressure drop. The advantage here is that the oil will be filtered which is the only recommended way I’m sure. All IMHO of course

i posted after i read the bottom line bit, can you answer this.

am i right in thinking the valve in side the filter will open if the filter blocks (big pressure difference) and will allow unfiltered oil to bypass the filter media causing less restriction and higher flow. But you are not getting the necessary filtering and may cause damage to the engine.
Hence the need for a high flow rate filter.

Have i got this right DON.

Cheers dave

[amsoil]

i posted after i read the bottom line bit, can you answer this.

am i right in thinking the valve in side the filter will open if the filter blocks (big pressure difference) and will allow unfiltered oil to bypass the filter media causing less restriction and higher flow. But you are not getting the necessary filtering and may cause damage to the engine.
Hence the need for a high flow rate filter.

Have i got this right DON.

Cheers dave

Yes pretty much correct. But of course there is more to it...... When you start your car there will, in an instant, be pressure at one side of the filter and it will momentarily not be balanced at the other; The bypass valve will open and balance the pressure putting oil immediatly where its needed , to the bearings. This oil has not been filtered (on this passing through the system) but hey it has been thousands of times before. When the pressures are equalised and remember equalised means the PSID (D= difference) is insufficient to keep the bypass valve open, then its all as one would expect with normal travel of oil and the filter doing its job.
If the bypass valve is weak / of a low PSID, then the pressure losses caused by a full flow of oil through pipes and an oil cooler may be over the PSID of the low rated filter. Your filter therfore doesn't and the valve flutters allowing a constant flow of unfiltered oil through to balance the PSID.

[Davezj]

well said that man, That makes it perfectly clear.

after i have swapped back to the mitsi filter to check for repeatable results.

I will have one of you high flow rate filters so i will let you know nearer the time. It has got to be tried.

Is there any way of checking a filters valve spring pressure on a complete filter or does it have to be cut open to get the spring out.

Cheers dave

[Davezj]

Here goes,

took it for run and got it nice and hot. left it for an 30min and started it up and i got the Tic, Tic,Tic. put the car in gear D (auto) and the Tic,Tic, Tic went away again. and not heard it since.
I have not changed my filter back yet to the mitsi one, the rain has not stopped and i don't fancy rolling about on the road with 2" of water rushing by. So i will do it as soon as possible and let you know.

Dave

[MarkSanne]

RECEIVED THE AMSOIL OIL & OILFILTER TODAY!! /thankyou

now waiting for the rain to finally stop... :sad3:

[Beastlee]

Don,

Does this filter need changing every 3000 miles or is the period extended given the use of Amsoil TSO and this filter?

Cheers
Lee

[peter thomson]

I think it said up to 25k on the one I bought from Don but I don't think I would leave it that long

[amsoil]

Don,

Does this filter need changing every 3000 miles or is the period extended given the use of Amsoil TSO and this filter?

Cheers
Lee

Change it when you change your oil next time; If thats going to be 3K miles with TSO then save the oil for me to use after and let someone else have the filter
Without being funny the idea is to not only run the best but also save money. Look at double the 3k for starters.

[Beastlee]

That's handy to know, I am panicking about changing the oil and filter as it has been 3200 miles since the last change (using TSO). So can I safely run a 4,500 mile oil service in line with the main service schedule if I use TSO every time?

[amsoil]

That's handy to know, I am panicking about changing the oil and filter as it has been 3200 miles since the last change (using TSO). So can I safely run a 4,500 mile oil service in line with the main service schedule if I use TSO every time?

Certainly

[Beastlee]

Not wanting to doubt you Don but can anyone confirm they safely run at these service intervals before I go being accused of not maintaining the car properly.
If it's true this will certainly make the extra cost more than worth it.

[Nick Mann]

The mitsubishi service interval for VR4s is 4500 miles. Their oil is not as good as Amsoil IMO, so 4500 miles should be perfectly safe. I would not question the service history of a car that was having Amsoil changes every 4.5k.

Bernmc did some investigation into Amsoil service life somewhere......

[amsoil]

I would always say , if someone is selling or trying to sell you something, then don't believe them do your own research! Always much cheaper to learn by others peoples experimentation and usage.
Bernmacs thread is here http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14349&highlight=oil+analysis
You will quickly see that things like the ever supported K&N filter where not so good as people believe and that you need to ensure samples and what you write on the analysis form is correct. We were not doing the 3.5k - 5k bit but 5k - 10k + as I recall. I stand to be corrected here .... but no one on the VR4 forum has ever had oil analysis come back with a result that shows the oil has failed. contaminated yes but the oil itself was always fine. s
You must remember that Mitzi set its service intervals allowing for the lowest common denominator ie the cheapest oil about that met the then low standards. Amsoil and particularly TSO is the very best of the best. TSO also has half as much again in the way of additives (and in most cases much more) than all other oils I know and the additives it has are of the expensive and highest quality you can get. These additives allow theis oil to neutralise the byproducts of combustion and to resist wear for a long long period. Given that Amsoil say that this oil is good for upto 35K miles you can be rest assured that it will do 5K in the VR4. You may be able to actually double that figure.

[Beastlee]

Nick, thanks for the vote of confidence, I can stop panicking about the late change now. Heidi was heading back down the sell it route when she heard about 3000 mile services /pan

Ok, now I'm looking at the fact our SAAB 9000 has a 6000mile(actually it's 6 months as it only does 6000 miles in a year) interval and the next VR-4 change will fall directly inbetween the services. What would be the general opinion if I were to change the oil every 6 months given that the VR-4 is insured and runs for less than 8000 miles in a year with no track time?

I'm thinking now is still probably the best time to buy given certain offers that are available, just in time for a change in September.

[MarkSanne]

Installed the AMSOIL oil filter and changed the oil for that liquid gold called AMSOIL 0W-30 TSO blabla yesterday. After driving about 100km I'd say the tappet noise is almost gone. So there actually seems to be a difference although it's hard to tell, because for a truly proper comparison I should change the oil filter for a regular mitsu/nipparts one.

What I am absolutely very happy about is the oil temperatures. This new oil seems to cool down much faster than my last oil (Kroon Emperol -full synth-). At my drive home I noticed that the oil temp was very stable at about 100 degrees C. also when driving fast for longer periods. My previous oil went upto 130/140 degrees C easily when driving fast (over 160km/h).

So all and all: very happy with AMSOIL!!! worth every euro!

[amsoil]

The drop in temperatue is a sure sign that the Amsoil is doing a better job than was done before. The lower temperature is caused by less friction / stress in the engine with less pumping losses. Net result will be a bit more power/ better fuel economy , usually between 2-8%. Some people notice the difference others just smile a little more as they boot it! Amsoil will continue to improve the way your engine runs as it actually cleans the inside of the engine as you go. This wont cause a problem as its designed to do this.
Thanks for the update

[phosty]

Davej,

Are you sure you fitted the Halfords HOF226 filter? I got both to be sure before I took off the old one.

uploaded/4134/1185904251.jpg

uploaded/4134/1185904286.jpg

As you can see the HOF225 looked a closer match so I went with that one. Threads on the inner hole are all identical but the rubber gaskets are all slightly different diameter:

Mitsubishi - 64mm
HOF225 - 65mm
HOF226 - 62mm

Though if yours hasn't leaked I guess either will do.

I just reckoned with being similar in shape the 225 filter would have similar filter areas.

Filters £7 each from Halfords. And with their 'Buy one get one free' offer I got 2x5lt of 0W-40 Halfords Fully Synthetic oil too for £32. Full oil change for £23!

Don't get me wrong - I intend to put Amsoil in at some later point but I wanted to flush the black oil out of my system with something a bit cleaner before spending the big bucks! Might get one of them lab analyses done on it too just for fun.

It did cure the ticking that had started on the old oil though......for the time being anyway.

[Davezj]

you beat me to it.

I switched back to the Mitsi filter and the Tic, Tic, Tic, came back. But not as bad as it was before. only for 10-20 second on startup.

i have just been to halford and the 225 is better looking filter match wise but it is listed for the 97-03 2.5 OHC. 226 is 93-95 2.5 DOHC.

To be honest i don't think any of the filter that halford supply are ment for the VR4 but i know the 226 tall thin one is the one that made the Tic, Tic, Tic, stop in my VR4.

more later

[I-S]

226 looks like the filter that's meant for the 2.0.

[MarkSanne]

Got one thing to mention about the AMSOIL filter. It should have a protective plastic packaging seal, just like many other brand oilfilters have. Dust or even worse could easily get in during storage, transport, etc. It's just a 1/2 cent thing, but it would make it truly a perfect product.

uploaded/1887/1186060759.jpg

(left the nipparts filter with plastic packaging seal, right the amsoil filter)

[Davezj]

right here is the update.

the mitsi filter has been in for a few days now and it is Tic,Tic,Tic on startup and now it is going on for a few minutes after setting off. so that filter is coming out pritty sharpish. by the way it is very similar to the halfords 225.
But i will not be using one of those either. I will be PMing DON AMSOILS and try out the high flow filter he can supply.

I will be putting 226 filter back on in the mean time. Personal choice.

hope this helps

Dave

[Davezj]

226 looks like the filter that's meant for the 2.0.

As i said above 226 is listed for the 2.5 DOHC 93 - 95
and the 226 is listed for the 2.0 16v 88 - 97

i took some pictures in halford today the book and the filters, but have to agree an odd combination of engines.

[Davezj]

well i have been running for about a week with mitsi filter back in and it is noisey as hell every time i start and sometimes for a few minutes as well.

Hope the AMSoil one gets to me soon as this noise is getting right on my T*TS.

[MarkSanne]

I've got the AMSOIL filter & oil on the car for over a week now and it seems the lash noise is now even further reduced! Probably the oil is doing it's cleaning function pretty good!

No surprise that I'm still very pleased with the results of both the oil and the filter. (and now I'm gonna change the gearbox oil for proper amsoil as well, as the 2nd gear sometimes is a little tough to use when it's not warmed up yet).

BTW: also ordered a set of filtermag's (www.filtermag.com), anyone has any experience with those?

[Davezj]

the latest.

you must remeber i have never had problem with lash noise untill i fitted a mitsubishi oil filter Part No. MD322508 and i have 52K on the clock which includes the Km in Japan so low mileage.

I have fitted the amsoil filter, and what a transformation, I have not heard one Tic so far. I have been out for a bit of a blat and then after a stop, switch off 20min and another normal drive out still no noise.

however the morning will show up anything if there is any Tic,Tic,Tic after the oil completly drains down to the sump.

i wait for the result in the morning.

[Little Miss Road Rage]

My tic tic is really bad and it lasts for ages once I'm driving. Think I'm gonna get the amsoil oil and filter and get me hands dirty. Not serviced the Leggie myself before done loadsa other cars tho. Any tips?

[Davezj]

hold your horses,

i have just been out over lunch time and i have Tic, Tic, Tic back again even with the amsoil filter fitted. as i said before it worth running these thing for a while to get a better feel for the full result. So i will carry on with the setup i have got until i get back off holiday in a couple of week and let you know the result.

The Tic, Tic, Tic, seem to be afferted by style of driving as well as mechanical part and lubricants. well what do you know it more complex than i first thought. own a VR4 and join a new world of complexities. It fun though.

However getting back to the oil bits, it is obvious to me now that a good oil and filter will make a difference to the running of you car. If you are going to get amsoil give it the best possible chance of working well and use a flush for the oil (£6 AMSOIL) before puting £50 worth of very good oil in a sludgy mess in the bottom of you sump and contaminating it straight away.

Just something to think about.

The VR4 is the easiest car i have even hed to do an oil and filter change on and you don't even have to jack it up. As long as it is not lowered.

Top Tip
1. Get a Cat litter tray to slide under it to drain the oil nice low sides.
2. turn wheels fully clockwise to get access to the sump plug from front right of the car. 17mm skt.

hope this helps

Dave

[Little Miss Road Rage]

I'll keep an eye on this thread and see how its going. Our car was due its service in July but its not done the 4500 yet just that its a year since the last service. If it stops our tic tic a bit it would be better

[Davezj]

well i got really fed up with the Tic,Tic,Tic, tonight and did something a bit rash.

so i ditched the oil again.

Here is a recap so you don't have to trall through the thread.

In the begining, the earth cooled and the dinosours formed, oh no that is differnt movie.

right, from the start.....

when i had NO Tic,Tic,Tic i had 5W/30 semi synth halfrods own (not the best), and a halfords HOF226 filter.

They had an offer on buy one get one free on there 5W/40 fully synth (halford own) bargin i thought. better oil then the 5w/30 what can go wrong!

When i changed the oil i put the mitsi filter on and the Tic, Tic, Tic started.

changed to a halford 226 filter and the Tic, Tic,Tic has almost gone completly. only a ver small Tic on inital start up in the morning, which was a result.

I changed the oil again after only a few hundred mile just to see if it was a bad oil or something like that made no difference.

put the original mitsi filter back on and Tic, Tic, Tic, came back big style.

put the HOF 226 back on and it reduced the Tic,Tic,Tic, a lot.

Got an amsoil filter and put it on and i hate to say it Tic, Tic, Tic was gone to start with but then it came back big style.

I was spitting fethers by now and gave it one last shot and i have just dropped the 5w/40 fully synth oil and replaced it with 5w/30 semi synth. i have drained and put the amsoil filter back on to see what would happen.

I will let you know tomorrow............

[phosty]

I know what you mean about giving it a while to see if changes occur. I had mine serviced when I brought it into the country in March this year, 112,000 Km on the clock. I don't know what grade of oil the guy put in (didn't realise the importance back then) but it was fine - no ticks, even on starting. Since reading the forum a bit about ticking (usually lash adjusters etc) I thought I was pretty lucky since it's not exactly a low mileage motor (maybe the lash adjusters had been changed in Japan - I don't know).

About a month ago, (i.e. 4 months, 6500 km ~ 4000 miles later) I was beginning to hear ticking on startup which would generally clear once warmed up or, as I have read elsewhere on this forum, just switch the engine off straight away, then restart and the tick would be gone. I assume this is just the lash adjusters priming with oil/bleeding the air bubbles etc.

My oil was pretty black looking with particulates so I assumed the ball valves and springs in the lash adjusters were getting a bit sludged up and letting the oil flow back out leaving air in them.

I wanted to put in Amsoil after reading all the testimonials on this forum but first wanted to flush out the old crap with some cheapo Halfords 5W-40 Fully Synth (buy one get one free!) and a HOF225 filter.

And the ticking was worse. Hmmn. However, after reading around the subject of lash adjusters on the many American websites that talk of such things (3si, Stealth 316 etc etc) where there are tips on air bleeding, cleaning them, installing uprated lash adjusters with 3mm bleed holes etc one tip sounded particularly easy - make sure the oil is topped up to the top of the mark on the dipstick. Apparently it can make a big difference.

Well, it sounded easy to try so I put another 3-400 ml oil in (still not taken a full 5lt can of Halfords yet). And it seems to have done the trick now. No ticking on startup.

Early days and I do still have another less mechanical tick that appears at low revs but seems to clear above 2500 rpm or so I'm going to have go at replacing the drive belts to make sure it's not those and eliminate the alternator too. Just hope it's not the timing belt (done at 99,500 km according to the Japanese sticker on the engine).

Even after 1000 km the oil is looking pretty black again so I may use up the other 5lt of Halfords stuff I got free and then give Amsoil a go. Depends on if my ticking returns!

[MarkSanne]

@phosty: I wouldn't wait till the ticking returns, but instead change oil again now (the thicker/blacker the oil gets the more/earier buildup of sludge!) Now that it's fairly clean, change it again , drive 500km's again and then change to amsoil.

[n13l pm]

I look all set for my oil change, received my Amsoil yesterday from performance oils (thanks Don for the great fast service & discount). I went for the synthetic 5W-40 european car formula 6x946ml, synthetic manual transmission and transaxle gear lube 75W-90 3x946ml (for the gear box) and the SDF-20 oil filter. Also popped in to halfords today to pick up some buy-one-get-one-free 5W-40 synthetic and some wynns flush. Im hoping to do it this weekend.. il update people on any noticable differnce on the V6..

[Johnny_Cashed]

I'll be interested to hear the difference that the manual transmission fluid makes n13l pm

[fredfour4]

I did not expect the thread to get this long. The tic is back on start up but it is nearly 4500 miles since the last service.
The car has got has got to go for its 100,000 mile service, MOT at Lindhill Colchester in the next couple of weeks. It will be interesting to see what filter they use and if the tic will disappear.
If it is ticking I will swap the filter over and try the halfords.
Thanks for all of your replies.

[MarkSanne]

Received email from Naveed @ PRIRACING...

read yourself:

Hi Mark

The lash adjusters turned up, but unfortunately they have a smaller hole than standard! Supplier has messed me about and I have now stopped buying from them as a result. So I am unable to sort your order :(

Sorry I have not been able to supply you at this time. Apparently there is a massive batch of these lash adjusters (with tiny hole) in the world at the moment, so be careful on where you buy from.

Thanks
Naveed
www.priracing.com


He later replied that he will try to find a good source or shop that sell the uprated lash adjusters.


Very honest and good service from PRIracing I think.


Thought I would let you all know about this too, when anyone would consider buying new lash adjusters, pay very close attention in getting the proper ones!

I must add that my engine is now running so smooth and quiet even my GF mentioned it sounds and feels better than ever before. So my rush for new lash adjusters is gone for now.

[Davezj]

Hi All,

just got back for a 1400mile holiday to cornwall. and it tIC'ed it tits off for the entire two weeks really bad.

I have been back for a few days and it seems to have settled down. i think it may have something to do with the fact i topped up the engine oil. it was bang smack in the middle of the top and bottom marks. so i topped it up to just over the max and it seems to have made the ticing less. only a slight tic on start up.

I will leave it like this for a bit and see what happens.

Here is a shot in the dark. could the oil pick up pipe mesh be semi blocked in the smup. as this whole sarger only started after i did a mojor flush of the oil that could have dropped a load of crap into the sump which gets stuck in the mesh, and stays stuck. i know all the oil does not come out of the engine when the drain plug is removed as it is not right at the bottom of the sump.

Has anyone seen the bottom of the engine with the sump off and can tell me where the oil pick up pipe is and if it has a mesh filter on it.

Cheers Dave

[serenity88]

That's exactly my line of thinking on this common problem with the vr4! Especially when you see the upgrade lifters that have 1 ml oil ports as aposed to the standard 3 ML!!!. fitting the after market lifters would have to be done in conjunction with some sort of top end feeder mod.

My car started ticking like crazy about a week ago. I put some engine cleaner (wynns) in it ran it for about thirty mins on idle, drained the oil (jacked car up every way possible) fitted a new filter and put castrol magnitec 10w40 into it.

It's purring like a kitten now at about 50 k's I'm going to drain the oil and replace again!

Im also very interested in this stuff, anyone had experience with it?http://www.auto-rx.com/pages/pov.htm

Scroll down and check out the before and after photo's, pretty impressive difference

[Little Miss Road Rage]

I've not seen the VR4 engine apart but normally the oil feed pipe is in the deepest part of the sump and all the one's I've seen have mesh on them can't see the engine being that much different to all the other engines out there HTH

[phosty]

Serenity88: Especially when you see the upgrade lifters that have 1 ml oil ports as aposed to the standard 3 ML!!!

I think you have this the wrong way around? Don't the uprated lash adjusters have the 3mm vent holes compared to 1mm on the OEM ones? That way they bleed the air bubbles more easily.

[Nutter_John]

I've not seen the VR4 engine apart but normally the oil feed pipe is in the deepest part of the sump and all the one's I've seen have mesh on them can't see the engine being that much different to all the other engines out there HTH

Yep there is a tea strainer in the very bottom part of the sump which is the oil feed up to the pump