TOTAL CLOSURE almost licked need help

[KEENY]

mitsubishi was so close in creating total closure for the galant god knows why they didnt finnish it off.

ok here is where iam so far..... galants can close all 4 windows with one pull from each button (as you know) you may or may not know that there is also a 30 secound time limit from the moment you turn off the engine that will allow you to do the windows up.

so all that is needed is a relay and a little bit of wiring work on the window control pad.

i have had a little bit of success with this as i can lock the doors and yes all the windows do go up... BUT only if the drivers door is open when you do this..

the reason for it is because the 30 second time limit you have to close the windows cuts off when you step out of the car and close the drivers door. the 30 second time limit cuts off via the door switch. you can cut the wire and put a G-ode in between the cut wires. this will have the deseired effect but you will lose 2 out of 3 or the door catch features. the inside lights will be fine but the door warning light will not work and neither will the headlight warning tone.

soooooo here are my options i can either

1, put the G-ode between th wires and lose the tone and door light, but i could still have use of the inside light so i can make up a new tone and wire it to the inside light and put a new feed from the door light also to the inside light.

2. somewhere in the car there is some kind of board that tells that 30 second time limit that the driver has left the car and to simply abandon the time remaining. if i can find it i can bypass that cut off so that the windows will close when the door is closed.

3. well im working on a third option but im sure there is one.

so boys and girls any thoughts??????? any at all? nows the time

[djwarden]

Option one sounds nice and easy. but option 2 sounds like it may give a better, more factoryesque finish.

[KEENY]

i would rather do option 2 but i wouldnt know where to start looking

[djwarden]

Would CAPS have a wiring diagram for the windows? that may help in finding the board that controls the 30 sec delay. If not you could try asking an auto electrician if they had ever done anything like this before.

[KEENY]

errr whats caps?

[Davezj]

you would be better off with a full VR4 manual the only problem is, it is in japanese, but the wiring diagram should be ok.

This is in the members section.

full membership is only £20 for the year, and well worth it.

[KEENY]

yeah i have all that but i didnt find anything useful. i cant get manuel for any galant.

[Beastlee]

If I wasn't away all week I'd spend a considerable amount of time getting this sorted for you. I really want to be able to do the total closure without spending a fortune on Laserline components.

Can anyone point me to the wiring diagrams mentioned(haven't noticd them in the members area) and I may be able to work it out. I'm in a hotel all week for a course and I can spend my evenings working on this via the diagram.

The only other course of action is to manually trace the door pin back to the control unit. A tone generator like the telephone engineers use may help.

BTW CAPS is the Mitsubishi parts catalogue but it doesn't have wiring diagrams as far as I've found.

[KEENY]

yeah i have a test meter and it has helped a lot. im going to take have a look around under the stearing wheel next weekend and see if i cant find the yellow wire with a thin black stripe anywhere.

thats the offending wire by the way, lol

[n13l pm]

I had a go at total closure a few months ago.. I purchased one of these (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/WINDOW-CLOSURE-MODULE-FOR-ANY-CAR-ALARM-SYSTEM_W0QQitemZ260139302981QQihZ016QQcategoryZ753 29QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) cheap window closure modules.

The module has a feed of + & - wires going to each door, these have to be connected by cuting in to a wire which is located on each window motor. After cutting in to all the wires off the switch to the motor, I learnt that the wire I needed is a wire that goes from the top of the window motor to the bottom of the motor! The front door card had pure space to mess around with so I managed to do both fronts but the rears cant be done without removing the motor..! so I left it for another day.. I know, for sure, the front two work and I dont see why the rear ones wont if I can get to the motor wires. The module requires a trigger wire in order to switch on, which I managed to take off the cobra alarm.

[Kieran]

Regarding wiring diagrams.... There's not any complete ones, save for a few pinouts in the members area at the moment. In fact there's not even any in the KieranCorp Archives!! They're very elusive!!/Grrr

[Davezj]

Got the full wiring diagrams for the 2.4 galant can't see the vr4 is going to be much different for what you want.

send me a pm with email and i will send it to you.

[Kieran]

Got the full wiring diagrams for the 2.4 galant can't see the vr4 is going to be much different for what you want.

send me a pm with email and i will send it to you.

Is that the 2.4 UK/Jap-Spec GDi or the 2.4 USA-Spec Galant?

[Davezj]

not sure it was on one of the ftp servers someone had on here. i took the opperturity to down load it when one of ftp servers was working. i will have a look at home tonight.

Dave

[KEENY]

ive sent you a pm with my e-mail address davezj.

[Beastlee]

Dave I got the PM but haven't had an e-mail yet. Have you sent them out yet?

[Beastlee]

Ok, so here's a trick I spotted in the diagrams....however the diagrams are for a US spec car.

There are two switch wires from the driver's door, one is the Yellow/Black that you found but there is another Green/Red wire that is switched by all the doors. The Yellow/Black goes to pin 8 of an ETACS ECU but I don't know if we have them.

I wonder if you can work around the fact this comes from all the door it may be useful, otherwise you clearly need to work with the yellow/black wire which should run behind the kick panel in the driver's footwell.

More to follow as I have an idea brewing.

[KEENY]

well it would seem i have gone with option 1.

there is no way to track down the cause of the timer cutting out through the door pin. so i have cut the yellow and black wire (the wire that cuts the timer off using the door pin) and in doing so i have lost the drivers door safty light and the lights on buzzer.

so i have connected the door light to the inside overhead light. so that when the door opens the saftly light comes on with the inside light.

i have also made another buzzer up and wired it to the dash lights (which come on when you turn the lights on)

a very crude way of having total closure but effective. however there is one draw back.

you only have 30 seconds from thurning the ignition off to close the windows. if you run over this time you will have to put the windows up yourself. so if your the kinda person who likes to keep his/her windows down in the summer to keep the car cool when your not in it, this is not for you because you cant do the windows up when it starts to rain.... you only have that 30 second margin to get out of the car, get your shopping from the boot etc!!! and lock it.

if the windows are on the way up at 29 seconds they wont stop at 30 seconds. they will finnish closing.

any more questions peeps? feel free to ask.

[Beastlee]

Keeny,

I have a plan I'm working on that should be easy enough for you to change to and maintain the 30 sec closure. I want to get it straight in my mind first but I'm sure it will work and allow you to perform the total closure irrespective of the time you decide to activate the alarm or trigger closure. Some alarms may even allow you to use it for total opening too.

I think the problem you have hit is that the 30 sec control is held in the ECU and is therefore not possible to change. My route will utilise the same power line but obviously the ECU will need protection via a diode.

Lee

[Wodjno]

I have total closing and opening on the GDi :inquisiti I think :speechles

Well i can open all the windows and close them all via the remote :scholar:

But not by the lock button :inquisiti By the open Button :D

Tell me if i'm wasting your time with this info /pan I've not read all the thread :(

[fordprobe24]

I currently have the Microscan AN0031 electric window interface on my Ford Probe. It is linked into the Clifford alarm system and works a treat.

When I arm the alarm both windows will automatically close! Also you can set the Clifford to arm itself after 30 seconds. This also closes the windows when armed. I got my from Maplin 4 years ago and its still working fine (although I can't find it on Maplins site).

Check it out here: AN0031 (http://www.tradingdirect.co.uk/car_security_an0031.asp)
or the wiring diagram for it here:
AN0031.pdf (http://www.microscanalarms.co.uk/an0031.pdf)

[Jerry Shaw]

I had a go at total closure a few months ago.. I purchased one of these (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/WINDOW-CLOSURE-MODULE-FOR-ANY-CAR-ALARM-SYSTEM_W0QQitemZ260139302981QQihZ016QQcategoryZ753 29QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) cheap window closure modules.

The module has a feed of + & - wires going to each door, these have to be connected by cuting in to a wire which is located on each window motor. After cutting in to all the wires off the switch to the motor, I learnt that the wire I needed is a wire that goes from the top of the window motor to the bottom of the motor! The front door card had pure space to mess around with so I managed to do both fronts but the rears cant be done without removing the motor..! so I left it for another day.. I know, for sure, the front two work and I dont see why the rear ones wont if I can get to the motor wires. The module requires a trigger wire in order to switch on, which I managed to take off the cobra alarm.

Is there not enough space to place 2 of these modules in the drivers door?

Failing that, could you not use one module as you have, but connect the rear windows via diodes so that they are all still independant but all close together.

I have managed to get hold of a workshop manual so I'll have a look at the wiring if I can.

I used a Ford delay relay on a cavalier of mine just to hold the door lock switch for 30 seconds. (It had closure on the door lock) As the above post, I used an alarm from Maplin and the remote lock interface to trigger the relay. Unfortunately, they still sell the alarm but not the interface.