Newbie from Australia - Vr4 Concerns.. help me plz :)

[jdm-vr4]

This is the Galant I'm looking at buying

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h59/Riz-G/DSC00006-3.jpg

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h59/Riz-G/DSC00007-2.jpg

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h59/Riz-G/DSC00008-2.jpg

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h59/Riz-G/W1174553_d.jpg

Is there anything in particular I should look out on the Vr-4s ? its a 5 speed tiptronic gearbox, 90,010kms.. theres (what they call) tappet noise (have a report from Option 1 to prove that its tappets only and bottom end is fine) .. it looks sweet and drives pretty decent (compared to the Aristo :P) .. just felt a shudder effect on hard braking which they say is front rotors requiring machining..

Are tappets easy to fix ? and anything in particular that I should look out on these ? (JP ? anyone else etc)

Are transmission parts hard to obtain for these? I'm really keen but don't want to buy something which might potentially be something bad waiting to happen :?

CHeers for your help !
:D

[Gly]

its soon due for its major 100km service

camblet/pullys/tensioners/all fluids (diff/trans/ayc), (not cheap)

you may get away with a good flush and some good oil to get rid of the tappet noise

http://www.clubvr4.com/index.php?page=BuyersGuide

[jdm-vr4]

umm all fluids have been replaced on compliance .. whats the ron rating like for vr4s?

pulleys and cambelts , yeah I might have to see where I can source those from.. and yes I did read that bit thanks.. just wanted to confirm from owners :)

[BraindG]

sometimes you'll need more than one oil change to minimise the tappet noise - as long as you keep ontop of oil changes the tappets should unblock the dirty oil and reduce the noice, if not get rid of it..

[Gly]

best to run them on the highest octane gas you can get,

there tuned for 100 octane jap gas,

the ecu tends to go into safemode or retard the ignition if a low octane gas is used, and it will loose power. as much as 20-30kw

[jdm-vr4]

oh fark , thats not cool coz over here the 100octane we have has some ethanol bs in it :(

[Gly]

i run mine on 98, seams fine.

[d i c k i e s]

same... its a lot cleaner... not much sh!t blows out of the exhaust etc... unless you pour in too much motor oil... hehehe

[White Lightning]

Why is there a huge section of the rear bumper missing?

[jdm-vr4]

what bit?

apparently my online colleagues from NZ (toyspeed) reckon that Vr-4s are best stayed away from .. turbos known to blow, transmissions gone and tappets indicate a dodged odometer ...

Also with 100,000kms coming up as mentioned above, parts etc.. overall its looking bad now .. confused :(

[BraindG]

rear bumper looks fine to me? - you maybe seeing the numberplate?

[Gly]

apparently my online colleagues from NZ (toyspeed) reckon that Vr-4s are best stayed away from ..

thats coz there dirty toyota lovers. /pan



turbos known to blow,


this isnt a subaru turbo,
like anything it will blow if your dont maintain your car, or you rape the crap out it.



transmissions gone.


service it correctly, with the right fuilds and there fine,
fit a trans cooler if you plan to treat it hard (racing, dragging etc.)



tappets indicate a dodged odometer

how?? there not connected in anyway??! there talking out there ass,
nosiey lifters indicates there clogged up, either due to poor quailty oil, dirty oil, low oil levels,





Also with 100,000kms coming up as mentioned above, parts etc.. overall its looking bad now .. confused :(

mention this to the dealer, either get them to drop the price or do the work prior to buying it,

i got my cambelt and clutch done before i would buy mine



.

[bradc]

I've never heard of turbos dieing on a VR-4, the transmissions do die, but you just need to service them correctly and they should be fine. The tappets are just part of the mitsi v6, at 90km's they will be making noise, thats just how life is! Good engine oil will normally fix that.

I would suggest that if you can get it for a reasonable price, or get the dealer to change the cambelt then you have a good car, and you just need them to sort out that ticking noise that you talked about on ozvr4

[Subaru ETA]

you toyota friends sound like dorks and just jelous that they drive nana cars!
subarus blow turbos - never heard a vr4 do so!
all trans will give up the goast if not maintained properly.

when you say all fluids were changed at compliance i very much doubt that included ayc fluids!

just buy it so you can shohve it up those toyota loosers as you over take them :P

[Spader]

what bit?

apparently my online colleagues from NZ (toyspeed) reckon that Vr-4s are best stayed away from .. turbos known to blow, transmissions gone and tappets indicate a dodged odometer ...

Also with 100,000kms coming up as mentioned above, parts etc.. overall its looking bad now .. confused :(

I'd actually be quite interested to know what they reccomend since VR-4's are obviously so bad....
I've had mine for 4 years now. Its a manual with leather and ralliart suspension, and I drive it like its rented most of the time. I got the AYC oil changed at a Mitsi dealer ($200NZD) the cambelt done (the part itself is expensive). Next on the agenda is the plugs.
Out of all the cars I have owned (apart from the 1990 Mazda 323 Turbo hatch) this has been the most reliable car I have ever had.

Hope this helps

[aaron68nz]

oh fark , thats not cool coz over here the 100octane we have has some ethanol bs in it :(

I've been running my VR4 on V power racing ( ie the 5% ethanol 100 plus octane stuff) for the last year and a half. No problems as yet. Apparently 5% is not too harsh but I see there is now regular octane petrol with 10% ethanol available here in Sydney.

Oh, and on the tappet issue I've just changed to Mobil 1 10W-30 which now only gives ticking when the engine is below normal operating temperature and purrs quietly when warm! The car only started ticking years ago when I started using Mobil 1 5W-50. Have tried Mobil 1 0W-40 but that still gave me noise. My car has now done 96,000km.

I've recently had a small brake rotor warp problem which was only slightly noticable when harder braking at motorway speeds. I used cheap generic discs though when maybee I should've gone for something drilled/slotted and better quality.

When changing the cam belts it's also advisable to change the water pump too as it's only cheap.

[naughtika]

jdm-vr4..

i guess you're buying the car from brisbane unique cars.. i bought mine from theirs too..

i'll be getting my timing belts, tensioners and others done soon.. i think in the last weeks i've done about 2.5k

I wanted that silver one til i found out it was auto.. but overall i think it was good..

about the steering wheel vibration when you brake, you'll need to get those rotors re-surfaceed or replace it with slotted ones..

goodluck with the car..

[Nick Mann]

I have blown a pair of turbos. But to be fair, I have my boost controller set at 1.3 bar! /pan

[rayray24]

I have blown a pair of turbos. But to be fair, I have my boost controller set at 1.3 bar! /pan

Ummm yeah that will do it!!!! The factory setting is 0.47 bar :inquisiti

[mahartika]

nice car have you brought it yet? if yes do you like it?

[pitmac]

What do you mean by blown turbo? Seals gone, Compressor wheel touching compressor housing ECT.
The most common cause of turbo failure is lack of lubrication due to very low engine oil .

[Nick Mann]

I am pretty sure the bearing failed quite spectacularly. I no longer have the turbos, I donated them to Benh for a bit of investigation.

Basically there was a lot of oil coming out of the exhaust, especially on vacuum. It started showing itself when in low gear, high revs, coasting downhill. The blades were all damaged on the outside diameter from running against the housing. You could feel the play in the shaft by sticking your finger on it and waggling it.

I am pretty sure the failure was a combination of a full engine rebuild 15,000 miles before, turbos refurbed 40,000(ish) miles before and the fact they were spinning as fast as they were able.