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MGV6
04-08-2007, 08:17 PM
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26000

Just to follow up on the above (previous) thread, I had a qualified car electrican visit my house today to inspect the car.

First up, the diagnostic machines he used showed no electrical faults in the engine. He tested the battery, he said the battery is fine, there is something in the car thats causing the battery to drain when the car is not in use.

This then made it more difficult for him to establish the cause of the problem.

He basically asked me to checking the following with any Galant user :

1. When you put the car key into 1st ignition, should the climate control buttons back lights suppose to turn on? (my mines do)

2. When you put the car key into 1st ignition, should the radio buttons back lights suppose to come on ? (mine does and he thinks thats fine)

Basically he couldn't solve the problem when he came and I wanted to also ask:

You know the standard Philips radio panel that came on the 1999-2000 2.5 V6 Sport cars, which pin (or alan key) is needed to remove the radio back panel fitted into the dash (I dont have that pin but he was trying to seee if by disconnecting the radio the side lights could turn off when car is running)

He also disconnected the CD autochanger to see if that affects the side lights, but to no effect.

Basically the 2 issues are first to establish why my side lights are running on when the engine is running and also when in 1st ignition and secondly whats causing the battery to drain when car is not in use. I use the car about 2-3 times a week approx.

A bit clueless now about what to do next. My guess is that someone who knows these cars well and can do the electrical diagnostic check is properly more likely to solve these issues I have.

I think all car elctricans have the capabiltiy to run the diagnostic checks on their machines but when that doesn't show anything, thats where someone who probably knows the car well comes in. The guy who came in today was a bit clueless at times about where and what else to check on the car at times.


(btw: what I said about Mitsubishi in previous thread was kind of wrong. I lashed out on Mitsubishi which wasn't right but I did it because I was annoyed with the car and the problems its been causing)

stuartturbo
04-08-2007, 08:43 PM
I know its a bit random but what about removing fuses from particular circuits
Radio/lights
ABS etc
It might help track down the right circuit then onto components


prob boddock but
2 day is 48hso if you have a 60 amp hour battery it needs to be something drawing 1.25amp
measure power supply's to look for a drain on fuses

MGV6
04-08-2007, 08:48 PM
How to I find the correct fuses for radio/lights and ABS?

The 1 test I did do on the side lights was I removed the left side light fuse and the left side light was still ON when engine was running BUT when the right side light fuse was removed , the right side light was OFF when engine was on.

Johnny_Cashed
04-08-2007, 09:59 PM
I'm not sure what you mean about 1st ignition, but here's what happens in mine.

I can turn the key three "clicks", the third being ignition.

On the first click, the clock comes on, dash is unlit as is climate control. I can also turn the radio on (but mine is a different radio to yours), but can't operate the electric windows and I don't think I can operate the folding mirrors.

On the second click the dash lights are on, climate control is lit up, and the windows and mirrors are operational.

On the third click I hear a nice noise :afro:

My sidelights don't come on automatically when the engine starts up? Maybe you have a volvo? /pan

scc
04-08-2007, 10:39 PM
Sounds like it's the flux capacitor that needs servicing. Faulty flux capacitors manifests itself as electrical anomalies due to tranducer inductance on neighbouring circuits. Time to raised the alarm!

Have you checked to see if it's your alarm system that's faulty?

Cheers,
scc

MGV6
05-08-2007, 07:04 AM
Sounds like it's the flux capacitor that needs servicing. Faulty flux capacitors manifests itself as electrical anomalies due to tranducer inductance on neighbouring circuits. Time to raised the alarm!

Have you checked to see if it's your alarm system that's faulty?

Cheers,
scc

I did ask him about my alarm, he said he doesn't think its that. Would the diagnostic machine pick up alarm faults?

Secondly, also forgot to ask, you know the CD autochanger traybox, after you have switched off your engine, should the traybox still be working? e.g. spinning? I noticed 60 seconds after I switch off engine, I can still eject traybox and it makes click noises or does it have like a sleep mode? I have the standard Philips CD autochanger that comes with the car.

psbarham
05-08-2007, 10:25 AM
just a thought , well more of a wild stab in the dark really , but i was playing options over in my head about this fault , and it got me thinking :thinking: is your stereo aftermarket ? if so i wonder if the illumination wire has been connected to something else ? like the electric areial feed of ign feed on the back of the stereo. its a maybe , but its gotta be worth a look :inquisiti

MGV6
05-08-2007, 01:08 PM
My stereo is standard Philips factory fitted

Nutter_John
05-08-2007, 01:11 PM
right ok

I will give you a simple thing to do

get a clamp amp meter and wrap it around the battery cable with the engine off - you should see a current draw , now pull every fuse one at a time ( remembering where they came from ) until you see the current draw stops , when it stops you have isolated the feed that is drawing current - any auto elctrcian who know what they are doing would know this and should have done this yesterday

MGV6
05-08-2007, 01:18 PM
right ok

I will give you a simple thing to do

get a clamp amp meter and wrap it around the battery cable with the engine off - you should see a current draw , now pull every fuse one at a time ( remembering where they came from ) until you see the current draw stops , when it stops you have isolated the feed that is drawing current - any auto elctrcian who know what they are doing would know this and should have done this yesterday

He didn't do this but I will try this out. Cheers.

btw: when u say "clamp amp meter" do u mean one of those amp boosters or battery boosters that are sometimes used to charge the battery?

Nutter_John
05-08-2007, 01:25 PM
no as the wording said , a clamp amp meter (dc based )

http://www.professionalequipment.com/clamp-meters/

peter thomson
05-08-2007, 01:26 PM
He didn't do this but I will try this out. Cheers.

btw: when u say "clamp amp meter" do u mean one of those amp boosters or battery boosters that are sometimes used to charge the battery?

No it looks like a normal test meter but with a clamp usually at the top of the meter. If you look at the RS website you will see some there

Beaten to it

MGV6
05-08-2007, 01:31 PM
I'll try this out. I don't have that equipment (quite an expensive kit) but will check with someone who has one of those and try it out.

stuartturbo
05-08-2007, 06:13 PM
a multimuter may be up to the job as that is what i meant either across battery or on the fuse to earth

Nutter_John
05-08-2007, 10:17 PM
you can use a multimeter by removing the + terminal and setting the meter to ampage then place this in between the + lead and the terminal on the battery - BUT do not turn the car over as you will foobar you multimeter as most of them can only hanlde 10 amps

What you looking for is for the current to drop when removing fuses

Problem with just going off the voltage is that you have to understand a little more about electronics

stuartturbo
05-08-2007, 10:23 PM
I did mean current AMP but as you said needs to be a reasonable one
if only to be aquarate and dont turn the car over multimeters do smoke( but not enclosed work spaces now /lol)

I did it on an old vectra mine was a car Amp not turning off mainly because i am to tight to pay someone else and what you may find is some of the auto guys dont know or after a quick fix job