Galant 2.4 GDI Maintenance

[Rambaud]

I have done just over 2000 miles since the car was serviced last month. Total mileage went over the 121,000 mark yesterday.

There are 5 areas which I am looking for comments/feedback :

1. Oil & Filter
The tappetts/lash adjusters are still a bit noisy, so I am considering a switch to Amsoil (I have sent a PM to Don on the subject). Probably an engine flush too?

2. ATF Change
Again likely to be Amsoil. I assume it's a wise precaution at this mileage? Full flush too?

3. Suspension
I was thinking about new dampers - are the standard Mitsi ones OK? What sort of cost am I looking at for supplying & fitting all 4?

4. Garages
I am based in the Oxford area for the next couple of weeks. Any recommendations now that WRD are no more?

5. Electric aerial
Mine does not go up and down properly - I assume it's the orginal fitment. Any recommendations for a replacement?

[ritch_w]

for
1. Oil & Filter - yes do a flush - use the amsoil additive prior to flushing

2. ATF Change - yes a full flush is a must, you'll probably need around 12 litres of amsoil. "how to" is in the members area.

3. Suspension KYB or Bilstien replacements are the way to go, especially mated to eibach lowering springs for improved comfort, handling and better stance.

4. dunno

5. either mitsi (££££), universal electric replacement? or Mo (Zedy1) you may need to remove it first to check.

[Rambaud]

ritch_w

Thanks for the input.

I have tended to avoid lowering springs - due to needing new fillings in my teeth. :) But you mention that Eibach springs may help in the "comfort" department which does interest me. Is this definitely the case?

I was not intending to go to a Mtsi garage for the aerial (unless someone knows otherwise), so may just go to the nearest car audio fitter - gone are the days when I used to spend £5000 on my car stereo. :)

[ritch_w]

I have tended to avoid lowering springs - due to needing new fillings in my teeth. :) But you mention that Eibach springs may help in the "comfort" department which does interest me. Is this definitely the case?

yes, eibachs (on standard dampers) made a vast improvemenr on the V6 Sport Auto I had.
the ride round town was less bumpy and harsh, more compliant, and on the twisties far more composed with less body roll. its the best £160 you can spend on your galant.

use search for "eibach" and you'll find loadsa posts circa 2003 on the subject ;)

[Rambaud]

yes, eibachs (on standard dampers) made a vast improvemenr on the V6 Sport Auto I had.
the ride round town was less bumpy and harsh, more compliant, and on the twisties far more composed with less body roll. its the best £160 you can spend on your galant.

use search for "eibach" and you'll find loadsa posts circa 2003 on the subject ;)

Will do a search.

Perhaps your V6 sport had harsher original springs than my GDI has?

[Paul Beazer]

n13lpm is selling an aerial in the classifieds section at the moment.....

[I-S]

1) Amsoil ASL or AFL would be my recommendation. However, what i'm currently doing is running cheaper oil at very regular changes (1500miles) until I've cleared out a load of junk from the engine - there's a lot in there. I would recommend doing the same, as the GDI builds up a lot of carbon inside.

2) No question. Amsoil for the win. Full flush is a :thumbsup:

3) Likely that the sport has harsher springs...

I've just changed the front shocks on my GDI (old ones were pissing oil all over the place) for Bilstein B4s - with VAT and delivery works out to £50 per corner. I'm running the standard springs, and the ride is better.

4) Can't help you there I'm afraid

5) Can't help there either - the estate has a fixed aerial.

[Rambaud]

Thanks, Isaac.

1. How can I tell how much carbon build-up there is? My Internet research showed that failing the MOT Emissions test was often such an indicator. The last MOT was last month (July 2007) and the HC part was 28ppm. This seems pretty healthy - or am I talking rubbish? :)

2. Amsoil Flush & Change it is.

3. I am missing some service invoices, so don't know if the dampers are the original ones or not. Nothing was mentioned at the MOT. Is it prudent to change all 4 at the same time? If so, how much? Would £400 cover it?

4. Perhaps a trip to Eurospec?

5. Thanks for the heads-up, Paul. I am not too interested in the radio - more the aesthetics of it not retracting fully.

[I-S]

Look on the dipstick - the blacker it is, the more ****e there is... Also look into the oil filler. My last lot of oil changed after 1500 miles was very very black. I've used various things like 10k boost, redex, etc, so the oil will have been picking up additional rubbish from that, but it's all got to come out.

[ritch_w]

3. Would £400 cover it?

i should coco! a set of 4 bilstiens or KYBs will cost just over £200, if you go for springs too (these will have to come off anyway whne you change the shocks) £100 for cheapies, £160ish for quality eibachs.

removal and fitting is a piece of cake :afro:

[Rambaud]

i should coco! a set of 4 bilstiens or KYBs will cost just over £200, if you go for springs too (these will have to come off anyway whne you change the shocks) £100 for cheapies, £160ish for quality eibachs.

removal and fitting is a piece of cake :afro:

So how long should fitting take for each corner by a garage + wheel alignment- 30 mins?

[ritch_w]

couple of hours max

do it yourself!

[Rambaud]

couple of hours max

do it yourself!

I am too mechanically challenged. :)

[kookie]

My oil is always black after 2000k car has done 88k was beginning to think i had a problem ,why should this be, wifes car (Almera) stays clean fo a lot longer, answers on a postcard please to -------

[Kieran]

My oil is always black after 2000k car has done 88k was beginning to think i had a problem ,why should this be, wifes car (Almera) stays clean fo a lot longer, answers on a postcard please to -------

Isaac will explain in full, but the GDi engine is known for mucking it's oil. From what I remember, the GDi cokes up a lot, and because it's a direct injection engine, your usual injector cleaner type efforts don't really help. The GDi also recycles a lot of it's exhaust gas, which again chokes everything up.

[Rambaud]

My oil is always black after 2000k car has done 88k was beginning to think i had a problem ,why should this be, wifes car (Almera) stays clean fo a lot longer, answers on a postcard please to -------

Top quality fully synthetic oil (e.g. Amsoil) and 99 RON petrol (Tesco or Shell V-Power) and correct spark plugs should help.

IMHO, 20,000Km (12,500 miles) is probably too long between oil changes for a GDI engine.

Also, it needs to be revved on a regular basis - it's too easy to always poodle around in 4th gear. :)

[kookie]

Top quality fully synthetic oil (e.g. Amsoil) and 99 RON petrol (Tesco or Shell V-Power) and correct spark plugs should help.

IMHO, 20,000Km (12,500 miles) is probably too long between oil changes for a GDI engine.

Also, it needs to be revved on a regular basis - it's too easy to always poodle around in 4th gear. :)


Is yours tiptronic, if so drive like a manual especially round town.

[kookie]

Isaac will explain in full, but the GDi engine is known for mucking it's oil. From what I remember, the GDi cokes up a lot, and because it's a direct injection engine, your usual injector cleaner type efforts don't really help. The GDi also recycles a lot of it's exhaust gas, which again chokes everything up.


So apart from frequent oil changes and filter,how do we keep it clean???

[I-S]

The GDI appears to suffer coking problems for the following reasons - I believe that the high AFR leads to sootier burning, and the amount of EGR (exhaust recirculation) is very high also (part of the point of the GDI is very low emissions of HCs) - this puts the soot back into the engine. It tends to collect on the inlet valves, which don't have any fuel going past them (as they would in a normal engine). This is very hard to shift because with no fuel going past then a fuel additive can't do any good (eg V-power, redex, etc) - the only thing that can easily be done DIY is to put in a can of 10k boost or amsoil power foam. This will soften the carbon and a good thrash can then dislodge it - however, if large bits come adrift then these can end up clogging the cat, which would be A Bad Thing.

Giving the engine a decent rev once or twice a week will dislodge new build-ups typically - if you never exercise the engine beyond 3k then the carbon will find it much easier to stick around.

[kookie]

The GDI appears to suffer coking problems for the following reasons - I believe that the high AFR leads to sootier burning, and the amount of EGR (exhaust recirculation) is very high also (part of the point of the GDI is very low emissions of HCs) - this puts the soot back into the engine. It tends to collect on the inlet valves, which don't have any fuel going past them (as they would in a normal engine). This is very hard to shift because with no fuel going past then a fuel additive can't do any good (eg V-power, redex, etc) - the only thing that can easily be done DIY is to put in a can of 10k boost or amsoil power foam. This will soften the carbon and a good thrash can then dislodge it - however, if large bits come adrift then these can end up clogging the cat, which would be A Bad Thing.

Giving the engine a decent rev once or twice a week will dislodge new build-ups typically - if you never exercise the engine beyond 3k then the carbon will find it much easier to stick around.
Thanks for info, you have me worried now as i seldom go over 3k revs, most of my driving is around Brighton, 5mph max

[Rambaud]

Is yours tiptronic, if so drive like a manual especially round town.

Yes, it's a Tiptronic.

I do use it like a manual most of the time - and try to keep it above 3000 rpm for a decent length of time at least once a week.

[Rambaud]

The GDI appears to suffer coking problems for the following reasons - I believe that the high AFR leads to sootier burning, and the amount of EGR (exhaust recirculation) is very high also (part of the point of the GDI is very low emissions of HCs) - this puts the soot back into the engine. It tends to collect on the inlet valves, which don't have any fuel going past them (as they would in a normal engine). This is very hard to shift because with no fuel going past then a fuel additive can't do any good (eg V-power, redex, etc) - the only thing that can easily be done DIY is to put in a can of 10k boost or amsoil power foam. This will soften the carbon and a good thrash can then dislodge it - however, if large bits come adrift then these can end up clogging the cat, which would be A Bad Thing.

Giving the engine a decent rev once or twice a week will dislodge new build-ups typically - if you never exercise the engine beyond 3k then the carbon will find it much easier to stick around.

Isaac,

The Amsoil Power Foam sounds interesting. Have you used it yet?

[I-S]

Not on the GDI, but I did use it on the GLS. On the GDI I used 10k boost (see the performance mods forum).

[kookie]

Not on the GDI, but I did use it on the GLS. On the GDI I used 10k boost (see the performance mods forum).


Going to see if i can get some 10k boost today and hope for good weather this weekend.

[I-S]

You will need someone to help you with doing the 10k boost.

The way Kieran and I did it was I sat in the driver's seat with foot on the throttle, while he removed the large air hose from from the inlet manifold (the one that comes from the MAF and air filter) - the engine tries to die so you need to boot the throttle, then he sprayed it in while I kept the engine alive (not always easy!), then after each spraying put the hose back on so that the engine could idle.

[Rambaud]

Update :

1. Purchased 5 litres of 0W-30 Amsoil + oil filter from Don - note that 5 litre cans are now available and are cheaper than 5 x the smaller cans. All the more so with the Club discount. :)

I had an oil & fiter change done at my local ATS for £39.99 this morning. They used Shell fully synthetic Helix (5W-30). I shall run the car for while then drain and put the Amsoil in.

2. Had a new electric aerial supplied & fitted locally for £99.99. Reception has improved, and car looks nicer and goes faster. :)

Still got the ATF and shock absorbers to do. :(

[I-S]

The ATF is the one that makes the BIG difference. Reminds me, I must get my gearbox oil done...

[Rambaud]

The ATF is the one that makes the BIG difference. Reminds me, I must get my gearbox oil done...

Really? I was just doing it more as preventive maintenance with 121,000 miles on the clock.

So Amsoil should improve the Tip's changes also?

[I-S]

My GLS was significantly smoother and got slightly better fuel economy when I changed over to amsoil ATF.

[Rambaud]

My GLS was significantly smoother and got slightly better fuel economy when I changed over to amsoil ATF.

Thanks for that - I might get it done sooner rather than later.

How many litres do I need for a full flush & change?

[Eurospec]

About 12 on the vr4 mate, i imagine it will be very similar on the 2.4. It is good stuff too.

Cheers,

Ben.

[Rambaud]

About 12 on the vr4 mate, i imagine it will be very similar on the 2.4. It is good stuff too.

Cheers,

Ben.

Thanks, Ben.

So about £120 for the ATF. :(

[bradc]

yeah about 12 litres or so. but remember you only need to change it once every 20,000 miles or even more with a 2.4 gdi and it is the single best thing you can do for an auto galant.

[I-S]

After 20000 miles in my GLS it showed not a hint of needing to be changed - still bright red and smooth as...

[Rambaud]

Update :

Collected my Amsoil oil & filter earlier this week - thanks Don. :)

I have delayed putting in the Amsoil, as having checked the oil this morning, it still looks pretty clean - the car has only done about 500 miles since the last oil & filter change.

The tappets are much quieter - ticking is usually briefly on start-up. This could be due to the new oil, or because it is thinner at 5W-30, than the 10W-40 which the Mitsi garage used.

[I-S]

Today I changed my oil again (more halfraud's 10W40 "synthetic"). This is my penultimate "sacrificial" change, about 2000 miles after the last one. Next comes the "oil of doom" (part amsoil 5W30, part amsoil 10W40, part mobil 1 0W40, many parts halfords 10W40) after this one, then Amsoil 5W30 for real.

The first change I did within a few hours of getting the car. What came out of the engine was NASTY. It obviously had not been changed in too long a time. I changed it for the first of the halford's oil. 1500 miles later I changed that again, and it was seriously nasty again. However, this time, 2000 miles further on, it has come out much cleaner. Not CLEAN, but not unexpectedly horrible for the mileage it's done. I'd like to think that this means these short interval changes at this point are having the intended effect of removing the crap, sludge, varnish and needlenardlenoo. I shall run this current lot for 3000 miles or so, then the oil of doom for a while, then engine flush and Amsoil.

[Paul Beazer]

Oil of Doom = Mixture of leftover bits from previous oil changes?

[I-S]

Yup.

[Rambaud]

Update :

Oil & filter changed today for Amsoil (0W-30), plus Amsoil Engine Flush done beforehand.

Last oil & filter change was just under 4000 miles ago.

Seems quieter and smother - especially at higher revs (3000+ rpm).

[amsoil]

Thats my boy /GJ

[I-S]

Did you get the Amsoil ATF in? I found that was a bigger improvement than the engine oil.

Reminds me, I still need to get my Amsoil in my gearbox...

[Rambaud]

Did you get the Amsoil ATF in? I found that was a bigger improvement than the engine oil.

Reminds me, I still need to get my Amsoil in my gearbox...

Isaac, if the question is to me, then No, not yet.

[kookie]

Did you get the Amsoil ATF in? I found that was a bigger improvement than the engine oil.

Reminds me, I still need to get my Amsoil in my gearbox...


I have 6 litres of Amsoil unopened here if someone needs it, make me an offer and arrange collection, i will box it up, go on give your car a Xmas pressy. /toycar /Banana /Banana /bounce