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View Full Version : Start button Urgent Help Please!!!



Slimshady
29-09-2007, 03:02 PM
I am currently fitting a start button and I can not figure out which wires are which (apears to be 5)

Can anyone tell me what 2 I need to wire the Start Button into

Thanks in advance

Slim

ANTHONY
29-09-2007, 03:07 PM
ain't got a klew but a photo may help somebody

Nigelator
03-10-2007, 04:43 AM
when ur key moves from "run" to "start" you will find that you will loose power to the ACC wire.

should be very easy to spot with a multimeter.

there will also be another thinner wire that is (most likely) half way up the barrel that is used to let you know ur keys are in the hole when the door is open and Engine is not on. (ie this will drop power off when you turn to "run")

Wires are not likely to be in order that the key moves around in.

Nutter_John
03-10-2007, 08:20 AM
Why not do what they do in the movies , just strip all the ends and touch them on each other until it starts

When I did this on an old mk2 escort that I'd lost the keys for I just connected the very top wire on the block to a positive source via a push switch rated at 20 amps - that worked fine for six months with no issues

ANTHONY
03-10-2007, 08:49 PM
Why not do what they do in the movies , just strip all the ends and touch them on each other until it starts

When I did this on an old mk2 escort that I'd lost the keys for I just connected the very top wire on the block to a positive source via a push switch rated at 20 amps - that worked fine for six months with no issuesif he finds a pair that work what do the others do?

Nutter_John
03-10-2007, 08:53 PM
he only need the the turnover feed to push the solenoid and engauged the starter .

I will take the cowling off mine tomorrow and get you the pin outs

Slimshady
03-10-2007, 11:59 PM
Figured it out you need the big red live lead and the big black and yellow lead obvious I know but when you bell them out with the battery disconnected turning the switch you get some bizarre results. The way I found out was to use the main battery connected and the multi meter on volts mode – pin across the two and when you start the car the meter will blip up to 12 – 14 V then drop when you turn the key back to normal run mode (i.e. engine running)

Note this is a bitch of a job, the wires are very tight and you will have to take half of the drivers side dash apart to get to the wire loom. Also use adequate connecting blocks i.e. 60A (these wires can get up to 30 – 40A) and when you cut in it is very tight.

Apart from that the only other advice I can offer is USE A RELAY (if you buy a good kit it will come with one – DO NOT wire a switch without one unless it is at least 30 – 40A rated) and if you can, connect into the ignition 12V supply, I originally connected into a 12V main feed and could press the button with the key out (turned over but would not start) not small kid friendly (especially my son) if you know what I mean. Also make sure the wires on the live side will take that sort of current – you will burn your car if not.

Ninja Neil

Nigelator
04-10-2007, 01:17 AM
yeah good call Slim Ninja Neil, Safety first even if you dont have kids!

and yeah the current is heeps going though the key.
if you run a relay i think his switch should be at least 1/4 amp 12Volt DC rated.

Please note 2 things (you might already know)
1.
10 amp 240volt AC rating has roughly the same switching current as
10 amp 28Volt DC
(due to the ac sine wave passing though Zero, and DC Does not so it has to switch full voltage.)
2.
The rating on a switch/relay is a resistance rating unless the give a reactive rating too.
ie. roughly an 8.5 amp resistance (heater element or normal light bulb) Rating is equal to a 3 amp Reactive rating (motor, Fluro light unit or a coil as in our coil that pulls our starter motor in to activate).