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Mark 4
09-10-2007, 08:39 PM
My Nitrous kit is now fully functioning with 75hp jets installed and I will shortly have a full time AFR readout. Have already monitored with laptop though and Nos doesn’t seem to make much difference. I assume that is because the jetting supplied by the manufacturers errs on the side of caution.I am pleased with the performance gain and want to progress to a more controlled and more powerful setup.

I have read some interesting info here :

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2735&page=2&highlight=nos


And here :

http://www.diy-nitrous.fsnet.co.uk/

Both of these learned gentlemen are in agreement that direct port injection is the way to go. Mr Burgerman has an ingenious solution which I am going to adopt. Also going to jet at the solenoid as this makes sense.

Bottle heater and remote opener are on the shopping list together with a progressive controller later on.

But I have a couple of questions.

a) Mr Burgerman states that a good dose of nos from standing start is beneficial as it spins the turbos up quicker. Mr Enigma is not using nos until 3000 rpm, and I believe has locked it out in first gear. Which is best ? I assume that nos from standing start would really strain the engine internals but could it take it ? And what about the transmission ?

b) Purge, good, bad - or just flash ?

c) What are other people planning or actively in the process of doing at the moment

Nick Mann
09-10-2007, 10:00 PM
Mr Enigma used NOS pretty much constantly to get his 12.5(ish) 1/4 mile at the pod. He ran many times without hurting his gearbox, but I think he may have had trouble with it at some point? SGHOM was running NOS at the same time through a progressive controller, and he had no gearbox issues either. (Except for a leaking torque convertor seal.)

Can't help much with the rest, sorry!

Mark 4
09-10-2007, 11:34 PM
Thanks Nick, anyone else care to comment ?

Nutter_John
09-10-2007, 11:36 PM
Drop Engima , Wodjno or SGHOM a pm as they have all used NOS

Mark 4
09-10-2007, 11:47 PM
Why Pm, this is supposed to be a forum, ie, open discussion.

psbarham
10-10-2007, 06:52 AM
Why Pm, this is supposed to be a forum, ie, open discussion.

do you see them on here? send them a pm that way when the next log on they'll see the pm rather than losing the thread in amongst a 1000 others, direct them here to talk about by all means though

Spirit
10-10-2007, 07:16 AM
do you see them on here? send them a pm that way when the next log on they'll see the pm rather than losing the thread in amongst a 1000 others, direct them here to talk about by all means though

Excellent point, also they may receive an email when they get a PM (if they have this activated)

Mark 4
10-10-2007, 01:05 PM
Good point, I'll do that.

Nutter_John
10-10-2007, 01:21 PM
Sghom will not answer quickly as he is stil without interweb thingymabob

TAR
10-10-2007, 11:06 PM
I know nothing about NOS but purge seems like a waste of good gas to me!

Turbo_Steve
14-10-2007, 08:59 PM
NOS purge is to remove moisture from the lines (and cool them prior to use) and should purge as close to the injection point as possible.

Whether or not it's really neccesary...well I leave that one up to you!

orionn2o
17-10-2007, 11:39 AM
Depending upon the kit, you'll find purging IS necessary. Over time the liquid in the Nitrous lines will cool to outside temperature and at this point will become gas.

This means that when you flick the go switch, you have to run a full line (from the boot to the engine) of gas before you get to the liquid.

Not only does this give you a delay on power but the kit also dumps loads of extra unneccessary fuel while it is waiting for the N2O to arrive. It may not seem much on the road, but on the drag strip it's vital seconds that can get you a good/not so good time.

orionn2o
17-10-2007, 11:42 AM
Another point Mark, which is the major benifits of progressive control is that you can use a small amount to help spool up the turbos faster and it will work as an excellent anti lag.

Obviously the slower the engine is running, the less nitrous you need to achieve the same liquid/rpm ratio.

I don't personally see why you would want to wait til 3000rpm to run the gas with a progressive setup, especially as with the standardish spec cars here, the most time lost is while the turbos aren't on full boost

Mark 4
17-10-2007, 02:06 PM
Thanks Matt that explains things better. So if I'm on the road looking for traffic light races all I need to do is activate the system for a couple of seconds and then I'm good to go because the nitrous line will have charged. Seems easier and cheaper than Purge kit.

I have it from a thoroughly reliable source that my little 75 hp jets mean that I can launch with Nos and as you say it will reduce spool up time. If I want more at higher revs/gears then I could go two stage but as you say a progressive controller would maybe give better control.

I have also been informed that a bottle heater with pressure control is almost essential to ensure consistency.

"Obviously the slower the engine is running, the less nitrous you need to achieve the same liquid/rpm ratio."

I hadn't thought in terms of liquid/rpm ratio. So far I have just been thinking what have others done and what is my preference regarding a safe level for my car. This is interesting and explains why you are thinking along the progressive controller line.

Think I need to sit back and re-consider my setup. I've already been talked out of direct port setup and now I'm erring towards progressive control.

Off to the wizards of nos website now to price it all up.

SGHOM
17-10-2007, 02:19 PM
progressive controllers take around 45 seconds to 'arm' ...so no good for traffic light races. you can bypass that & have it armed permanently... but as it works on TPS any flooring of the throttle will result in £1 per second of NOS with a 75 shot. :inquisiti :speechles

Mark 4
17-10-2007, 02:46 PM
OUCH, that's expensive. Especially when added to the money I've already spent plaus the £750 for the new bits from the wizards. Definately going to keep thinking about this though. All info and opinions gratefully received.

SGHOM
17-10-2007, 02:54 PM
Nos is purely for drag racing, & not for everyday use ... been there, done that /rally for example... if you want to outdrag a scooby from the lights using nos, you will win.... but at approx £45 is it worth it ? :thinking:

orionn2o
18-10-2007, 12:41 AM
hmmm £1 a second seems pretty high.... im sure i used to get better than that...

orionn2o
18-10-2007, 08:45 AM
progressive controllers take around 45 seconds to 'arm' ...so no good for traffic light races. you can bypass that & have it armed permanently... but as it works on TPS any flooring of the throttle will result in £1 per second of NOS with a 75 shot. :inquisiti :speechles


45 seconds!! thats rubbish! I think mine will be better than that!

SGHOM
18-10-2007, 11:04 AM
45 seconds!! thats rubbish! I think mine will be better than that!

the latest WON controllers are chipped, so they arm quicker. mine took ages thats why I looked into having a button on the steering wheel.
As for the cost..... a £40 refil lasted me just 3 runs at santa pod ! :speechles

orionn2o
18-10-2007, 11:16 AM
eeek.. thats fast work!

Is that a 5 lb bottle or 11lb?

SGHOM
18-10-2007, 11:17 AM
20lb bottle !! & i got the nos cheap... it's usually £3.50 lb :inquisiti

orionn2o
18-10-2007, 11:22 AM
20lb ! shock !!

£3.50 lb is quite cheap, i used to pay more than that when i used to buy it. Perhaps I just didn't know the right dealer!

Sorry for all these questions, what size jets were you running to smash a 20lb bottle so quick?

Mark 4
18-10-2007, 12:03 PM
Ooh err, better get a spare bottle, mine's only 11lb. I'm sure it lasts for a couple of minutes though. Not really been using it long enough to be sure.

orionn2o
18-10-2007, 12:23 PM
I;ve been thinking about your setup mark.

If you're not noticing the difference much on 75 shot then something must be up.

That would also perhaps explain why your system is lasting longer?

Mark 4
18-10-2007, 02:19 PM
Truth is Matt I don't really know but I thought that was about what I got from the first bottle. Wasn't jetted for 75 at first though so that probably explains it. There is nothing wrong with it now. It is a nice surge of smooth power. Only really used it at high revs in 3rd 4th and 5th so far. Now that I know more I will be using it for launch though. How is your controller coming along ?

orionn2o
18-10-2007, 02:33 PM
Doing your AFR thing ATM which is kind of part of the base of the controller. I've kind of seen it as a winter project to unleash in the spring!

I want to make it as user configurable as possible so that I can cover most eventualities!

Got some pretty displays on order too! So just gotta wait for them to arrive!

Mark 4
18-10-2007, 06:29 PM
Att SGHOM, how do you calculate the rate of use ?
Cheers
Mark.

SGHOM
18-10-2007, 06:35 PM
Att SGHOM, how do you calculate the rate of use ?
Cheers
Mark.
I put my foot down for the 4th run and............ nuffin' :thinking: calculations over /pan

Mark 4
18-10-2007, 06:39 PM
LOL. /pan /pan

Mark 4
22-02-2008, 12:53 AM
OK, so, moving on. I now have my bottle heater installed & spare bottle arriving tomorrow. Pulsoids & injector nozzle to be ordered from The Wizards in next few days. BUT, the bottle heater reads line pressure and heats the bottle to try to get to 900-950 psi. If I inadvertently turn on the heater with the bottle valve closed it will simply heat the bottle until the burst disc ruptures and all i get is a cold boot. Not efficient use of Nos. SO, I'm thinking that another pressure switch is required, say 400psi Minimum for the heater to be activated. Any thoughts ?

orionn2o
22-02-2008, 09:53 AM
OK, so, moving on. I now have my bottle heater installed & spare bottle arriving tomorrow. Pulsoids & injector nozzle to be ordered from The Wizards in next few days. BUT, the bottle heater reads line pressure and heats the bottle to try to get to 900-950 psi. If I inadvertently turn on the heater with the bottle valve closed it will simply heat the bottle until the burst disc ruptures and all i get is a cold boot. Not efficient use of Nos. SO, I'm thinking that another pressure switch is required, say 400psi Minimum for the heater to be activated. Any thoughts ?


Is your bottle valve manual opened or automatic? If its auto then its easy, just don't allow the electronics to heat the bottle when its closed.

If its manual then the only question i have is "what kind of temp increase can you expect from the heater?"

And at what PSI does the burst disc rupture? Surely its not less than what the bottle heater will create?

Mark 4
22-02-2008, 10:47 AM
Well the bottle heater draws 20 amps, at 12 volts. I calculate that to be 240 watts (correct me if I am wrong). That should be enough to get the bottle quite warm but not sure how warm. Think I'll call the wizards, they are bound to know. Report back later.

Mark 4
23-02-2008, 01:47 PM
Matt, just checked and the heater will definately increase the pressure beyond the burst disc setting. So, I guess a remote opener is the answer. Do you know where I can get one for a reasonable price ?