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View Full Version : Turn...squeak...turn...squeak...etc.



DickBarton
18-12-2007, 11:27 PM
Just noticed tonight that when I turn the wheel I get a squeaking noise from the front end...like the steering rack...only happens when I'm turning the wheels and only at low speeds i.e. <15mph - I suspect any faster than 15mph and the road noise hides the squeak.

Wasn't making it a few days ago and nothing has changed on the car...could it be the cold snap we have had...last few days the temp hasn't gone above 5C and I'm just wondering if it could be something cold that is making the noise???

Not too fussed by it just now but I am driving up to Laggan on Friday for a MTB ride and I'm not wanting the steering to break on the way there or back! ;-)

Cheers.

psbarham
18-12-2007, 11:39 PM
do a search for bottom ball joints, the squeak is normally the first sign of them dieing/Grrr

DickBarton
19-12-2007, 07:05 PM
F**K - not good news, I think my suspension arms are also needing replaced (or is this the same thing???

psbarham
19-12-2007, 08:49 PM
the bottom ball joints and bottom arms are one and the same

sanct
19-12-2007, 11:02 PM
Yep more of a nasty creaking.... turns into a nasty graunching....
Sounds like the issue I have just had. Two new arms no more creak.
Not the end of the world more a pain in the back side.

DickBarton
20-12-2007, 10:31 PM
How much were the new arms? I've been given 3 different costs - from the local motor factor they quote me £113 for a Blueprint version - from what I've heard Blueprint make near identical kit to the original manufacturers, just without the original manufacturers stamp on them - not sure which lower arm that is for though. The local Mitsu garage is telling me £140 + VAT for each arm (and there are 3 - 2 lowers and 1 upper) and my mechanic mate who seems to do miracles with cars that get handed to him is saying £180.

Could be doing without the cost but the car is 11 years old so it is only fair that it needs work at some point...

I'll get the drive up to Laggan and back sorted then will leave it in the drive for a few days...

Nick Mann
20-12-2007, 10:37 PM
There's normally only the one arm that NEEDS changing. No-one has yet found a non-mitsy replacement that is worth spending any amount of money on.

Kieran
20-12-2007, 11:23 PM
Blueprint stuff is usually very good and yes quite often it's out the same factory as the manufacturer's stuff - as an example, the cambelt tensioner bearing is actually a Koyo part - and as such both the original part, and the replacement are identical.

However, as Nick says, so far we've not had good experiences with 'Pattern' lower arms. The Camskill ones seem badly made (DanG will tell you all about those), and the ones from Germany (AutoTeile) have failed long before they should.

Where the lower arms are concerned, I think it's a case of 'Buy cheap, buy twice'. You could lessen the cost of the Mitsubishi Arms by asking RHDJapan how much they can supply them for.... Drop them an email with the part number.:scholar:

DickBarton
20-12-2007, 11:24 PM
Ok, so is it the front lower or rear lower? Also does the arm cover both sides or just one side? The left side is fugged but I suspect the right will be going that way soon as well...

DickBarton
20-12-2007, 11:26 PM
A very daft question but where will I find the part number and how do I contact RHDJapan? (sorry just read the thread and thought I'd ask before going looking in case you have the stuff to hand!

Thanks.

peter thomson
20-12-2007, 11:40 PM
left arm is MR296295 right is MR296296. You'll have to open an account with RHD and then email them with the part numbers. They can be quite slow to respond but it has been worth it for me so far with a coil pack and I'm waithing for a reply about an alternator
https://www.rhdjapan.com/home/index_new.php

DickBarton
24-12-2007, 12:01 AM
Thanks...

sanct
24-12-2007, 12:42 PM
Payed just under £80 an arm from Camskill
One side was heavily worn the other was only just starting to wear.
Having discussed with Ben at Eurospec I decided replacing both lower arms at once is a better idea for peace of mind and even wear.

DickBarton
26-12-2007, 12:58 PM
And how are the Camskill arms lasting?

psbarham
26-12-2007, 10:23 PM
And how are the Camskill arms lasting?
:thinking: :thinking: /Grrr /Grrr /Grrr /Grrr /Grrr /pan

DickBarton
28-12-2007, 07:24 PM
Is this the part we are talking about?

MITSUBISHI LEGNUM VR4 PARTS Front Arm - Rear Curved Arm (http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m22b406s1403p8226)

If so, is it a genuine Mitsu part? If yes, is it 'safe' to buy? I'm assuming the other 'half' of it is this part - MITSUBISHI LEGNUM VR4 PARTS Front Bottom Arm - Lateral Arm (http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m22b406s1403p7603)

Or have I completely missed what is probably broken and needing replaced? Just wondering as buying a complete set of those is still cheaper than from the Mitsu garage, but if they are genuine Mitsu parts, is the problem with the Camskill stuff going to be there?

Nick Mann
28-12-2007, 08:28 PM
The problem is normally the lateral arm in your second link above. AFAIK if you buy from Camskill they are not genuine parts and you could potentially end up in the same boat as psbarham. Call them and ask?

psbarham
28-12-2007, 10:12 PM
The problem is normally the lateral arm in your second link above. AFAIK if you buy from Camskill they are not genuine parts and you could potentially end up in the same boat as psbarham. Call them and ask?
they are definatly not genuine, i reckon they'd be tougher if they were made from technic lego.
anyway my mots due in 2 weeks, what the betting i need another set /Grrr i belive thats less than 5000 miles to completly kill the arms /Grrr oh yeh a bargin alright /pan

Davezj
29-12-2007, 01:07 AM
These are the arms covered by the recall arn't they. the ones in the second link.

if so check if yourcar has had the recall done. parts and labour are free.

There are theards to guide you to checking recall status and what to do to get mitsi to change them for you. It is worth a check.

DickBarton
29-12-2007, 10:57 AM
I'm waiting on Mitsu coming back to me as I've asked a couple of places and got conflicting stories...so went to Mitsu to find out myself...if they haven't been done then great, if not, I'll need to fork out the dough...

richy rich
29-12-2007, 11:25 AM
These are the arms covered by the recall arn't they. the ones in the second link.

if so check if yourcar has had the recall done. parts and labour are free.

There are theards to guide you to checking recall status and what to do to get mitsi to change them for you. It is worth a check.
Ive just read this thread and Davezj is the first to point towards the recall, shame on you lot (SK, Nick, Psb)/pan /pan /pan /pan .

Kieran
29-12-2007, 02:35 PM
Ive just read this thread and Davezj is the first to point towards the recall, shame on you lot (SK, Nick, Psb)/pan /pan /pan /pan .

PFFFFT!! Soz Grandad!! /pan /pan

richy rich
29-12-2007, 03:44 PM
PFFFFT!! Soz Grandad!! /pan /pan
so you should be

DickBarton
29-12-2007, 07:26 PM
Actually Kieran did a recall check for me and told me it had been done...which made me think it would mean shelling cash out...the local Mitsu garage had a look and thought it hadn't been done so tried to find out...I then went direct to Mitsu and I'm waiting on a reply.

richy rich
29-12-2007, 07:30 PM
Actually Kieran did a recall check for me and told me it had been done...which made me think it would mean shelling cash out...the local Mitsu garage had a look and thought it hadn't been done so tried to find out...I then went direct to Mitsu and I'm waiting on a reply.
OK that lets SK off the hook but not Nick & PSB./pan /pan /pan /haz

DickBarton
31-12-2007, 06:00 PM
This is very strange...I got the air con recharged (but has left a nice stink to the system - don't think it got used much before I got it!) and a new battery...and the rattling has completely stopped...no idea what has changed but the battery is well and truly strapped in and not shifting at all...

Looks like I had a seal needing replaced in the driveshaft and a rear ball joint in the rear passenger wheel...not sure what it is called yet but will do some digging in the books and see if I can get a price for a replacement part.

Other than that I think my power steering pump may be about to die...but otherwise, it's as sweet as a nut - also just had the oil changed with Amsoil and an Amsoil filter added...very quiet now.

bruno wasking
04-01-2008, 01:36 PM
Funny that! My 1997 Legnum has developed a creaking on the left hand side of the front wheel area. (like an old leather chair or bedspring squeak) would this be the same thing? the garage seemed to think it was the roll bar between the wheels...????

It would be good to go see him with some more info, anyone?

DickBarton
07-01-2008, 10:50 PM
My squeaking has now become a shriek and is from start up when cold, like a banshee when I turn the wheel and finally after about 5 minutes it dies down, but there is a still a bit of a whine...

I've had a look on Camskill but really not sure what I'm looking for - power steering pump or something? Assuming it is on the way out, am I right in thinking the tensioner belt that operates that also operates the alternator? If so, could this maybe not be charging the battery? No problems starting or operating stuff, but just wanting to prepare myself for the worse, so that when I'm told it is just the power steering pump the bill won't be quite so bad!

Steering hasn't gone heavy or anything so it still works...but it can't have much longer to go!

peter thomson
07-01-2008, 11:08 PM
It could be a dry bearing in the alternator or power steering tensioner pulleys rather than the pump or alternator.

DickBarton
07-01-2008, 11:12 PM
Is there an easy way to diagnose any of this? When I say easy, I mean something I can do (be aware that I'm a numpty with car bits so it has to be dead simple if I'm to do it myself!)...if it is a dry bearing, how would that get fixed? New bearing or do they have grease ports on them?

Thanks.

peter thomson
07-01-2008, 11:15 PM
You could take off one belt at a time and start the engine to see which pulley is causing the problem unless it just needs the belts tightened. The pulleys should feel smooth and free running. I think both pulleys should be available from camskill.

DickBarton
07-01-2008, 11:21 PM
Ok, that sounds easy enough...next question - where are the belts? And I take it it is easy enough for me to remove them? How do I identify which one is which?

peter thomson
07-01-2008, 11:26 PM
Easiest to remove the front drivers side wheel and arch liner to get at them .I think there is an article about fitting the belts as well in the members section. Camskill only list the alternator one but these guys have both http://www.japaneazicarparts.co.uk/search.asp
and I think they may get them from camskill

Article is here

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26070

DickBarton
07-01-2008, 11:49 PM
Nice, thanks Peter...

MarkSanne
09-01-2008, 02:41 PM
I got a squeaking too! Somewhat glad to read I'm not the only one, but I'm not sure what it is that causes it. Sometimes it's there and every (little) bump I can hear that awful sound (coming from the right side in my case) as well as when steering. But then one day it will suddenly stop and I don't have the squeaking anymore for months! Could this still be the same or are there other options? My Mitsy dealer had looked at it when it first happened but couldn't find anything wrong...

DickBarton
09-01-2008, 07:24 PM
I don't know...but mine is constant when cold, and a much quieter screech when warmed...I reckon it's not long before it goes terminal!

Davezj
20-01-2008, 10:31 PM
the tried and tested way, and easiest way to dignose a squeaky belt is to spray a bit of WD40 n the belt (pulley contact side), if the squeak goes it is that belt. The squeak will come back as soon as the WD40 is worked off the belt with the heat from friction of movemet.
Same goes for the barings just remeber to do one at a time.
As i say it is just diagnostic tool, not a fix.