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View Full Version : Legnum VR4 has new engine but doesn't go past 3rd gear...



unclepete
30-12-2007, 07:16 PM
Once again I'm looking for advice! The engine I got from Mo was put in much faster than I thought. It's rough as hell, so I shall be changing the oil again in a thousand miles, with a flush no doubt. Also tappets are going crazy but I can deal with this.

However, what I cannot deal with is the fact that the gearbox is changing in quite a brutal fashion (but not too dire) and it won't go past 3rd, even when pushed into Tiptronic.

There's no crazy noises, and everything seems okay. The ATF was checked before it left the garage (3 miles away or so) and it is not leaking any fluids of any sort. One fairly important note is that there was a funny smell, so on opening the bonnet, I noticed a small amount of smoke coming up from the back of the engine bay. I wasn't concerned as there were doubtlessly some fluids of some sort spilled when the engine was put in but I have only run it for 400 metres since.

Anyone have any ideas? As always, any experiences/advice are greatly received.

Pete

Kieran
30-12-2007, 07:31 PM
Sounds like a sensor's not connected properly. Brutal changes are common on a gearbox with some miles on the clock when the ECU is reset.

What colour was the ATF?

Does the 'N' Night flash?

bradc
30-12-2007, 07:33 PM
how fast were you going? they won't change into 4th gear until about you're doing about 25mph or so.

psbarham
30-12-2007, 07:34 PM
the gear change problems are either oil related, or the qaudrant on top of the box has been bashed and is not moving correctly, acctually just a thought check the big multi plug on top of the box, the pins are a tad delicate i'm sure bern had a problem with the multiplug

unclepete
30-12-2007, 07:56 PM
Amsoil ATF was changed only a while ago so it's nice and red. They topped it up with standard stuff so I'll get it changed if it ever works again.

The "N" light does flash, although not straight away. Changes aren't too bad to be honest but it used to be silky smooth (much better than my black one).

I'll get sensors and multiplugs checked (not by me though - I don't have a clue)

And I was doing about 50!! So it should have changed up. I was trying to take it easy, honest.

Thansk for your help guys, really appreciated. Don't fancy buying a gearbox after everything else...

Kieran
30-12-2007, 11:45 PM
The "N" light does flash, although not straight away. Changes aren't too bad to be honest but it used to be silky smooth (much better than my black one).

That would suggest to me that either the selector quadrant is skewiff as PSB suggested or that the multiplugs on top of the 'box aren't connected and/or seated correctly.:scholar:

bradc
31-12-2007, 01:35 AM
just confirming, there is still the correct level of oil in the gearbox? If it isn't that then I would say it is a speed sensor or something like that.

serenity88
31-12-2007, 04:08 AM
First question: Is it your ald trans put back in or did it come with the new engine?

It doesn't sound like a sensor though, I've been having prob's with my trans and been on a bit of a learning curve myself.

If one of the sensors is damaged (easily done) or not hooked up firmly, the ecu will detect no signal and put the box into limp, It'll cycle right through first gear before clunking into third and locking up on you.

It's definately going into limp. Does the trans go through first and second or does it just clunk straight into third? It wont get past first if it's a sensor prob!!!

The speed sensors are the little black plugs on top of the trans, one is beneath the airflow meter just behind and to the side of the mount and the other is next to the bracket for the selector cable underneath the solid plastic front intercooler pipe ( a real mongeral to get at) One is an input and the other is an output so if they are hooked up in the wrong direction that can muck things up as well. Just check that they are solidly connected and that the wires look like they are going in the right direction.

I wouldn't worry about the smoking, that'll be fluid overspill onto the exhaust from the transfer box (most likey when they filled it up again)

unclepete
31-12-2007, 11:11 AM
Hi, it's my old transmission but it was previously very sweet.

I am not certain whether it definitely goes into 2nd, I think it might just be clunking into third, as you say. Then it seems to stay there. I'll give it another wee go and get the sensors and everything else suggested looked at.

serenity88
31-12-2007, 03:08 PM
Well it sounds all good so far! Its your old box! If it clunks straight into third then the issue is minor and you can put your wallet away! Be a sensor for sure. I got hand's full of them down here, If they smacked one (easily done) and they want to pull your wallet through your nose, just let me know and I can post one up!!!!

they aren't very heavy and postage wouldn't amount to didly squat! :-)

bernmc
04-01-2008, 02:00 PM
There's a procedure in the workshop manual for checking and setting tha quadrant/ selector thingy on the top of the box - it's not difficult. I'd say this is most likely as you've just been messing in the engine bay. As PSB mentioned, I had a problem with the box when the wuckfits that 'fixed' it managed to bend one of the pins in the multiplug connector on top of the box. Bent the pin back, reconnected and we were off.

AFIK, it's just a case of removing the airbox to get at the relevant bits.

unclepete
08-01-2008, 11:41 AM
Thanks guys, still not got round to this unfortunately. Workshop manual? Do you know where I can get one of these so we all know what we are definitely doing?

Thanks again, loving your work!

Nick Mann
08-01-2008, 11:48 AM
The V6 Workshop manual is in the library. Most instructions are the same and many more overlap.

Click on the links in this order:

Resource Library => Automatic Gearbox => Workshop Manual

unclepete
08-01-2008, 02:22 PM
Magical. Thanks very much!!!

unclepete
08-01-2008, 02:24 PM
And serenity - thanks for the offer. I'll let you know if I require anything once we get to that stage.

DickBarton
08-01-2008, 07:11 PM
Pete, if it involves removing bits of plastic and wiggling connectors and stuff round - I'm in! Surely it should be something we can do without the need of a mechanic...if it is any harder than unplugging and replugging things in, then get the mechanic in...

unclepete
08-01-2008, 10:49 PM
Pete, if it involves removing bits of plastic and wiggling connectors and stuff round - I'm in! Surely it should be something we can do without the need of a mechanic...if it is any harder than unplugging and replugging things in, then get the mechanic in...

Behave, and while you're at it, jog on. I'll get the real deal in please...

Beastlee
09-01-2008, 07:43 PM
Good job you are good friends eh, LOL

DickBarton
09-01-2008, 09:57 PM
Yes but at times it can be a right stretch! ;-)

unclepete
09-01-2008, 10:05 PM
Sorry, pop round and get it sorted in your own time big fella. I was very rude!

DickBarton
09-01-2008, 10:15 PM
LOL...not at all...

unclepete
24-01-2008, 11:16 AM
It does now! Sorted. 2 VR4s and so little time (and money!).

Now I need a new headlight bulb, just to add insult to injury (are these H7s? Anyone know?), and some wee bolts (are whatever they are) to fix my plastic engine tray thing back on.

Thanks for all your help everyone - it was just a sensor that wasn't quite in. Took some time to identify it apparently!

peter thomson
24-01-2008, 11:30 AM
H7 for dip and H1 for main. great to hear it was a simple problem

unclepete
24-01-2008, 01:19 PM
Thanks Peter, I'll get some of those Philips ones, which Auto Express liked so much.

I've been searching for those bolts for the plastic undertray but cannot find anything. I remember someone saying recently that they could get a load for a minimal cost compared to Mitsu.

peter thomson
24-01-2008, 02:26 PM
In this thread by AderC

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=295522#post295522

site here

http://www.auto-connect.co.uk/Autoconnect_Drive_Rivets___3411.html