Amsoil Eao-20 oil filter

[Ryan]

I think that's the product code anyway - they claim to be good for a year or 40 000kms whichever comes first. Is this true or just marketing?

If it is true, would i still be able to use it even if I change the viscosity of the oil at the next service interval?

[bradc]

In the ST-R, I'll change the filter and the Amsoil 5w30 that is in it every 15000km or so, but in a VR-4 with turbo's, more power etc and much hotter oil temps, I'm going to keep to 5000km oil and filter changes, especially considering how I drive the VR-4 when I do actually drive it!

[Roberto]

You will find most people on here are quite particular about oil and changes.

So as a matter of course will change the filter each time they change the oil, me included.

It might be a bit of a waste, but we are talking about fairly small oil feed pipes to the turbos.

[amsoil]

Not marketing at all, I'm relatively safe to say as I'm too far away to sell you some!
Its done by using a new very fine media, the filaments are many times thinner than in the normal cellulose and therefore there are more filaments and more but smaller holes in any given area. Quite simple really. This results in more holes that can trap particles and much lower pressure drop as there are more holes giving a greater 'hole area' Net result is that the filters have been tested at 98.7% efficiency in a single pass at 15 microns and will still filter at about 10% at 1 micron with sub micron particles also being removed. This is totally beyond any one else although I do her that Honda are finally getting their act together on this side of things.
You could therefore leave the filter alone for the full 25K but its not a good policy to not change the filter when you change the oil.
Given that I have run the same s2000 oil in by le Mans car for 3 years without a change (oil analysis after every race) I do think that changing after 5K is a bit OTT but hey I'm not knocking it as I sell the stuff.

Just as an aside, The VR4 should really be running the 0w-30 or the 10w-30 in preference to the 5w-30. There are technical reasons for this.

[bradc]

why is 10w30 better than 5w30 in a VR-4? That makes no sense to me, especially because 5w30 is what most of us with n/a v6's use

[amsoil]

The 5w-30 is a fine product and better than the offerings from other manufacturers, however...
In the talk about the ultimate and the very best the 10w-30 must win. The cold and hot number as much nearer together which means this oil has a that high pressure and heat will have a very hard job of breaking the oil.
I'll actually stick my neck out a little here and say to have a look at these links. https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/acd.aspx https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/ase.aspx Here you will see that the oil is not only a 10w-30 but also an SAE 30. It is a straight grade oil that because it is synthetic reads as a multi grade on the old mineral oil scale ie 10w-30 as it is a straight grade it cannot realistically be broken down to its lighter grade by pressure or heat, it hasn't got a lighter grade. It is therefore a very very tough and resistant oil. The clue is in the , now removed, designation 'Turbo Formula' that I still have on my site here http://www.performanceoilsltd.co.uk/10w-30more.html The 5w-30 has been stretched just a little to get this grading but still without Viscosity Improvers to the very best of my knowledge. This 'stretching' does detract from the ultimate robustness of an oil. The TSO 0w-30 is very trick and comes at a premium price as a result being tougher and longer lasting than both.
Bottom line is that TSO 0w-30 is the very top quality oil with 10w-30 being 2nd choice for the V6 Turbo engine although the V6 without (no turbo heat) has the 5w-30 as a 2nd choice.

[Ryan]

Argh - and to think I wasted all my 0W30 pouring it through the engine...

[matt25649]

hahhaha yeah, and what you didnt pour through you swapped for other oil

[SiliconAngel]

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I just stuck the Mitsubishi code MD136466 into the Amsoil cross-reference page (http://www.amsoil.com/AmsoilLookups/MasterFilterCrossRef.aspx) and it told me the correct filter is EAO21. So is the correct filter for the VR4 EAO20, or EAO21?

[Subaru ETA]

i think that some listings have the pre facelift and facelift are different. i know fram are like that anyway.

and brad - 15000km might be too much of a gap between services, considering how easily they get noisey tappets!

[SiliconAngel]

Well if Amsoil just listed the dimensions for their filters that would definitely save a lot of trouble...

'99 VR4 Series 2. Oil filter specs: Seal Diameter 66mm, Thread M20-x1.5-6H

EDIT: When I say Amsoil, I mean the company, not Don of course!

[bradc]

Dave- it's had 5w30 in there since 100300km and it is up to 109xxxkm now, it doesn't tap at all :D

When it starts tapping I'll put in new oil

[unclepete]

I had Amsoil 0w30 in the hearse and never got chance to get it changed so left it for 5600 miles. The car was making a racket and the oil was incredibly dirty when it came out. Switched it with the same and it seems to be fine - it will be okay for the first 2000 miles before it does some more ticking. Also got an Amsoil filter on this time, so we'll see how that gets on.

The ambu has 10w 30 in it however, since it had the "new" engine and it ticked like crazy at first. Now it has completely shut up, which is a bit weird. Maybe a heavier oil is the way forward after all. Not that I know anything. I still have a garage full of Amsoil 0w30 anyhow so will keep using it.

[AderC]

Mine had Q8 F1 10w-50 in it at the last oil change. No ticking whatsoever even now at 5000 miles since the oil change. With Amsoil TSO the ticking was OK at first but came back after about 1500 miles. I'll be sticking with heavier oil from now on.

aDe

[Kieran]

Mine had Q8 F1 10w-50 in it at the last oil change. No ticking whatsoever even now at 5000 miles since the oil change. With Amsoil TSO the ticking was OK at first but came back after about 1500 miles. I'll be sticking with heavier oil from now on.

aDe

Wandering off topic, but using heavier oil is masking the root issue... Your lash adjusters are getting tired (the return springs do eventually give up) and eventually they'll start to tap with the heavier oil too.

Something else to bear in mind - Mitsubishi's spec listed in their japanese handbooks is either a 5w/30 or a 10w/30. A 50 weight oil is quite a way over the specified oil.... Though I am not sure what possible implications this might have.... Don?:inquisiti

[amsoil]

EAO21 is a slightly larger filter with slightly larger oil seal. It is shown as the correct filter for 95 and before Mighty Max pickups (mitzis) and for just about all Mitzi'x pre 1992; except teh Galant V6 which still has EAO20 shown back to 1988.

[Ryan]

I'm using Mobil1 5W50 and mine ticks on startup... I had 0W30 but stupidly jsut poured it straight through the engine :(

I will be getting some more OW30 this week.

[Subaru ETA]

i had 0w something in mine and it tapped on start up plus the engine just didnt seem as smooth sounding. went back to 10w30 and she purrs like a kitten!

and ryan, at least brads floor wont have any tapping lol :p

[Ryan]

i had 0w something in mine and it tapped on start up plus the engine just didnt seem as smooth sounding. went back to 10w30 and she purrs like a kitten!

and ryan, at least brads floor wont have any tapping lol :p

Hey!!! I used a catch pan you know!!! /pan :)

[matt25649]

I have 10w40 in mine, not tapping even on startup

[pungatree1]

I have just recently put Amsoil in my car for the 1st time (0w-30) tso along with an Amsoil engine flush and Amsoil oil filter. Ticked for a short time and then only ticked very briefly on start up. Oil that was in it previously was too thick in my opinion and so the car may still be sorting itself out (was changed when I bought it). Will be interesting to see what oil is like during next change - only done about 1000kms since change. Need to try the ATF next! Also got given the run down on the oil filter as discussed above when I bought it in Auckland but I still prefer to change it when I change the oil.

[SiliconAngel]

EAO21 is a slightly larger filter with slightly larger oil seal. It is shown as the correct filter for 95 and before Mighty Max pickups (mitzis) and for just about all Mitzi'x pre 1992; except teh Galant V6 which still has EAO20 shown back to 1988.So Don, the correct filter for a VR4 is EAO20 then?

While I'm asking you questions, have you seen this thread (http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29709)? Any illumination you can provide extremely appreciated!

[amsoil]

Yes thats correct with EAO13 shown for the 4 cylinder versions

[ANTHONY]

just changed my oil to silkolene pro race but still noisy from cold do you recommend Any additives the guys in NZ seem to use it

[Hotwire]

Needs some quick help here. I've been offered an amsoil Filter, the SDF20, which is the previous part number to the EAO20.
What is the difference between the two?
Do I need to wait for an EAO20 to come into stock, or can i use the SDF20 without worry? (i'll be combining it with Amsoil 0W-30 SSO)

[bradc]

replied to the other thread. sdf20 is fine but old

[unwritten-dinasty]

Question to the oil gurus, i live in the Caribbean (Dominican Republic) so here is summer all year long, (this has been the hottes summer ever, im starting to get worried on all that global warming stuff..) what oil should i use? I got the car 2 months ago and used Mobil1 Fully Synthetic 10w30, but is 30 to low for the weather we have here? would i be better off with a 10w40?

[amsoil]

The SDF-20 is only a few percent better than the best of the rest whilst the EAO20 with its new technology is a quantum leap ahead.


Needs some quick help here. I've been offered an amsoil Filter, the SDF20, which is the previous part number to the EAO20.
What is the difference between the two?
Do I need to wait for an EAO20 to come into stock, or can i use the SDF20 without worry? (i'll be combining it with Amsoil 0W-30 SSO)

[Hotwire]

Oh well, I bought it anyway as I didnt want to wait. It'll do the job then, as long as its a quality filter (which I presumed it is anyway) Im happy

[bradc]

Mitsi spec w30 oil in the VR-4. The temperature in Japan gets to 30C or so max. Remember however your oil temp is a by product of how good the radiator is and if it is capable of keeping the water temp and in turn the oil temp within spec. I'd suggest staying with a w30 unless your temps there regularly get over 40C

[unwritten-dinasty]

Temp here is regularly between 33C and 38/39C. Cold day might get to 31 or 30C. Also my car has 54,000kms, should i always use same grade oil? no matter the age of the engine?