Oil change

[viking365]

How much oil do i need for an engine oil change and what's the favoured oil of choice f
or a legnum vr4?

[miller]

Amsoil

4.5 to 5 litres


Mike

[Davezj]

amsoil TSO 2000 0W-30. 5L normally. but 4L at a scrape.

it is not cheap but look at the discount page. we get one from don at performance oils on the amsoil stuff a flush is a good option as well, depending on what oil is in the car at the moment.

take a look at opie as well as they do other makes.

personally i would go for amsoil if you can afford it.

[Nice But]

Just under 5 litres and Amsoil check Club discount from Don (http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13815) you can get your filter etc from him too.

beat me too it.

[viking365]

I've got a bottle of shell helix plus 10w-40 synthetic bought for my previous car will this work?

[Nice But]

Personally....... i wouldn't unless you know what's in there already. It needs to be fully synthetic in a VR4 because of the turbo's. Normal oil will just burn as they run so hot.

[viking365]

has anyone used silkolene pro s 10w 40?

[Beastlee]

Silkolene is good but you really should go with the Amsoil. 10w 40 is a little heavier than the TSO 0w30.
With respect, why did you ask the question then not accept the answer? If it's cost remember that with discount the Amsoil is £51 plus filter and postage. It's commonly agreed that with Amsoil in the engine you can go from 4500miles to 6000miles on the service interval (although Don will tell you it's safe for more, and it probably is) which is a saving over lesser oils. Combined with how well it stands up to the temperatures in our cars you'd be silly not to.

[Kieran]

has anyone used silkolene pro s 10w 40?

40 'hot' weight is outside the Mitsubishi specification for the VR-4 engine, as is using anything other than full synthetic oil (a 5w/30 or 10w/30 is recommended).

Some people do use a 10w/40 but don't use a semi synthetic. The non-turbo cars muck up semi synth in about 5,000 miles (As I found out with my GLS and my V6) - The Turbos need better than this.

[shaun1978]

Right.... I know that I'll probably end up getting slated here because of the bias towards AMSoil , but has anyone tried redline oil as I have heard this is pretty good too.....

[Robotnik123]

Hmm, I am sure Amsoil must be very good, but why can't you buy it in a regular store (well no store that I've come across anyway)? They use some sort of multi-level marketing thing to sell their oil, don't they? Anyway, I'm sticking to Pennzoil platinum synthetic because I can't be bothered ordering oil off the 'net.

[Kenneth]

Hmm, I am sure Amsoil must be very good, but why can't you buy it in a regular store (well no store that I've come across anyway)?

You can... you just need to know where the store is. Not sure there is one in wellington, backwater that it is :P /haz





They use some sort of multi-level marketing thing to sell their oil, don't they?

Does it matter?



Anyway, I'm sticking to Pennzoil platinum synthetic because I can't be bothered ordering oil off the 'net.

Can't be bothered eh? Well I personally can't be bothered going to a store to pick up oil so I wake up (or return from work) to find my oil has been delivered to my door. All I need to do is send an email from work and voila.

[Kieran]

Right.... I know that I'll probably end up getting slated here because of the bias towards AMSoil , but has anyone tried redline oil as I have heard this is pretty good too.....

Yes, Redline oils are supposed to be good too - I certainly would consider them if I was caught short and couldn't get what I wanted from the Amsoil line.

[Robotnik123]

Does it matter if they use multi-level marketing? Well it might: some of the people going on about how good it is could actually be shills who either gain from the sale or want to recruit you as a dealer. I have no problem with people making money off sales etc, but it would make me doubt whether the product is really so much better than its competitors.

[Kenneth]

I have no problem with people making money off sales etc, but it would make me doubt whether the product is really so much better than its competitors.

No offense intended, but you obviously haven't been paying attention to all the threads on the site where Amsoil has either been tested independently or a member has had a good result from changing to Amsoil.

There are enough users of Amsoil on this site now that if it was talked up rubbish it would have been found out by now.

Also consider this - How many people have you heard that have something bad to say about Amsoil? I cannot recall one, anywhere.

The fact of the matter is that those who switch to Amsoil rave about it.

[Robotnik123]

No offense intended, but you obviously haven't been paying attention to all the threads on the site where Amsoil has either been tested independently or a member has had a good result from changing to Amsoil.

There are enough users of Amsoil on this site now that if it was talked up rubbish it would have been found out by now.

Also consider this - How many people have you heard that have something bad to say about Amsoil? I cannot recall one, anywhere.

The fact of the matter is that those who switch to Amsoil rave about it.

Yes I have no doubt that is a good product. But how much better is it than other highend synthetic oils? And people rave about a lot of things, but subjective opinions about the car feeling smoother etc. is no substitute for independent lab tests. Anyway, I'm naturally sceptical about most things, so we'd better leave it at that.

[Nutter_John]

I have one bad thing to say about AMSoil which is that it tastes real bad :P , other than that AMSoil all the way

[bradc]

John, the 0w30 has one big advantage, you can use it as a personal lubricant :)

[viking365]

Silkolene is good but you really should go with the Amsoil. 10w 40 is a little heavier than the TSO 0w30.
With respect, why did you ask the question then not accept the answer? If it's cost remember that with discount the Amsoil is £51 plus filter and postage. It's commonly agreed that with Amsoil in the engine you can go from 4500miles to 6000miles on the service interval (although Don will tell you it's safe for more, and it probably is) which is a saving over lesser oils. Combined with how well it stands up to the temperatures in our cars you'd be silly not to.

Just wondered as, when I bought my GTO TT the advice I got from the owners club was to use Silkolene pro S and the GTO ran very smooth on it. Also, I've got a stockist just down the road...
But if Amsoil is tried and tested and found superior, I'd rather wait with the change until I've got some delivered.

[amsoil]

I cannot speak for NZ but I can for the UK and the rest of Europe, MLM (multi level marketing) does not to my knowledge operate outside of the North American Continent. In the UK we operate and compete like any other oil supplier. Redline is good but some of their products have 'issues' We know we used to sell it. (contact me for 1/2 price shockproof lightweight and shock oil) Please don't buy Amsoil if you are not sure; the way things are going I'm going to run out before the next container arrives :scholar:

[pitslayer]

my old silver V6 sounds like a VR4 that hasnt started up for 6 months, which most of you what know what it sounds like, but it sounds awfull, sounds like valves are hitting the pistons... flushed theengine put some amsoil in....gone, its the only stuff i will put in a car.

and i always use this thread which was posted up ages ago, which shows how good amsoil really is
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/showthread.php?p=833266

[Robotnik123]

my old silver V6 sounds like a VR4 that hasnt started up for 6 months, which most of you what know what it sounds like, but it sounds awfull, sounds like valves are hitting the pistons... flushed theengine put some amsoil in....gone, its the only stuff i will put in a car.

and i always use this thread which was posted up ages ago, which shows how good amsoil really is
http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/forums/showthread.php?p=833266

LOL, AMSOIL solves your muffin baking needs! Interesting test, but since it isn't in an automobile motor I don't think it really proves anything. Glad Amsoil works for you though. As for me, until it turns up at my local chain auto parts store I probably won't get around to trying any.

[TAR]

I have to agree with your sentiment Robotnik....thats not a good way to test engine oil!!!

I would however add my endorsement to Amsoil, I have used it and I am very happy with the results.

There has been much talk about oil on this forum and you pays your money and takes your choice. Amsoil is great and no doubt other manufacturers produce quality oils as well.

The original question was asking for a recommendation to which the resounding answer was Amsoil. If you choose not to use it, thats fine, recommend your favorite brand and Viking365 can make his own mind up.

:happy:

[pitslayer]

i think that test does stand up pretty well, it shows how the oil reacts to heat. ok you cant proove life of the oil, but it shows that amsoil is far superior to any of the other oils shown in that test. it can withstand real heat, and it lasts longer when it comes aflame

[Subaru ETA]

im not bagging amsoil here- never used it so i am not going to comment

does anyone here use castrol oil?? i use magnatec 10w30 profesional. used it in my legnum and my galant and i have never heard a tappet from them!

it could be just because i change my oil every 3 months or 5000km's (in my vr4 anyway), which i dont mind coz i get the oil for free

[bradc]

lol, if I got oil for free, I'd change it every week :)

[Subaru ETA]

lol think my boss would get a little pissed if i did that!!!!!!!

[pitslayer]

yeh i get the same problem in work, but slightly different "are you washing your car....again, you have got work to do!" /lol

[viking365]

Opted for Castrol EDGE in the end and it's so far so good, thanks for all the advice.

[shaun1978]

lloks like its going to be mail order for me .... so many shops round here have stopped selling the good stuff.....

[ratboyab]

Hi guys, sorry for hi-jacking your thread but I've just got my VR-4 and thre previous owner said it could do with an oil change and the tappets are slightly noisey running on 5w-40 and he said to use 0w-40 which is better for it and should clear up the tappets. So I ordered a gallon of Mobil 1 Fully Synthetic 0w-40 oil from ebay and now reading this I'm wondering if I brought the wrong stuff. I'm living in the UK if that makes any difference.

Cheers - Adam

[JTG]

Mobil 1 is good stuff. But I definitely wouldn't have got 0w40. Many on here recommend 0w30 amsoil as well as 5w30. I've been told that a 0w30 is too thing and I've no reason to doubt his outstanding mitsi expertise. So I'd get a 5w30 or 10w30.

I'm ordering some amsoil very soon (after using mobil 1 last) but haven't decided which one to go for.

[bradc]

If someone told you 0w30 is too thin but 5 or 10w30 is fine they are a complete and total utter idiot.

The 30 bit refers to how the oil flows at high temps. 30 is the range that mitsi decided suited the engine best at air temps up to about 30C. Above 30C a 40 weight oil may be ok.

The first number refers to the ability of the oil to flow at cold temps. Cold oil flows terribly compared to warm oil and for this reason you always want the first number to be as low as possible. Hence a 0w30 is always better than a 5w, 10w or even 15w if it exists in ANY car that requires a 30 weight oil.

The only time this is on a problem is when cheap oils are stretched over too wide a range, such as a 5w60 or something which will break down quickly over time and end up going to a 20w60 or similar very quickly.

A 0w40 Mobil 1 isn't ideal, but I would still use it, unless you have another vehicle that would run perfectly on 0w40, then I'd go out and buy some 0w30.

[amsoil]

We do a 0w-40 but I wouldn't put it in a performance car like a VR4. It simply cannopt last like as it is stretched tooooo far ie the gap is 40. The rings and turbo heat will chop up the long molecules of VI's (viscocity improvers) and the oil will quickly start reverting to the '0' from which it is based.
Yes the 0w-40 will be fine to start with but it just will not last and you should expect to have to change the oil sooner than you envisage.

[bradc]

What I said Don :)

[ratboyab]

Right, thanks guys, will look into changing for 0w-30.

[Fully]

If someone told you 0w30 is too thin but 5 or 10w30 is fine they are a complete and total utter idiot.


Well I disagree ;P
0w30 leaks from my motor with nearly 100k on it.
Leaks from a Legnum with 180k on it also.

I would use it for a rebuilt motor.

I do use 5w30 in the summer then change to 10w30 in the winter.

So yes I am total utter idiot, under your quote ;P

On another matter what do you use as an engine flush?

[sy666]

Guys if Millers finest is of any interest to anyone they are a supplier of ours at work for Hydraulic oils. I have a good working relationship with the head of sales who offers oil to me @ a little less than they supply to their distrubutors. Was running my prelude on CFS 10w/60 at a price of6.64p/litre. PM me if you want any. waiting on a price for fully synthetic 5w/30 at the mo will update when I hear back from him.

[sy666]

got the prices back, please see

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?p=582400#post582400

[bradc]

Sounds like your engine is faulty.