tap dancer's!!!!!!!!!!!?

[Big Ian]

:headsc: i know this is on other post's.but i think i need more help than has been posted.
changed my oil+filter today and my tappet like noise is getting worse?
i used an engine flush and semi-sinthetic oil went a 8 mile drive and i swear it is louder!!! :furious3:
is this the lasher's or could it be my tappet's are shot,if it's the lasher's are these easy to do on a 2.0,16V 4G63 engine?do they just need cleaned proper and re-seated? any help will be brill with this,
:mad: as it's doin ma fuuk'n head in :io:

[Kieran]

According to my dealer it's not unknown for the 4G63's tappet bores to trap crud after it's been loosened by a oil flush additive. The solution is to do it again and maybe again!

However, the fact that your adjusters were ticking beforehand, and are WORSE with fresh oil, makes me think that you've got an adjuster or two with a bust spring mechanism. I suspect the noise is worse because the new oil, being thinner and free from debris, exits the adjuster more easily and doesn't pressurise the tappet as much.

My thoughts are that you could remove the adjusters and clean them with diesel, but the 4G63 uses a SOHC rocker-arm head. I've got the 4G63 manual here, and the dissasembly looks a right sod to me, so if I were you I'd get replacements, rather than bugger about dismantling it for no reward...

[Kieran]

If you do want a go, I'll mail you the PDF i've got, seeing as you're a fully paid up member :) PM me if you're interested...

[Big Ian]

cheer's kieran,ive got all the manual,s on disc. when i hold a steedy rev above idel speed it goes away,then when the rev's settle it come's back?
i think i may try the flush and oil change again and see what happen's??
what do you think.is it worth a shot or not?
also i 'd done about 30 mile's (2day's) driving with the engine flush in before the oil change..

[Kieran]

Oil flusing and refilling is certainly worth it. Whilst the service intervals on our cars are 9,000 miles, I've not had half as much hassle with ticking since reducing oil changes to once every 4,500 miles, so yep, that's worth a go.

BUT - Having thought further, you may still have a knackered adjuster. If you think about it, when you rev the engine, you're upping the oil pressure. This extra pressure could be making the adjusters pressurise to the correct level and maintain the correct valve clearances, stopping the ticking. When your engine settles to idle, the oil pressure falls and this may be too much of a loss for your adjusters to cope with - they have a valve and spring assembly to maintain a minimum internal pressure to keep the clearances right, but it seems that yours aren't doing this correctly. :undecided :undecided

[Big Ian]

:shifty: for some reson it aint as noise today or as constant :headsc:

[Kieran]

Perhaps it IS just a bit of crud blocking your adjusters then?? :undecided :huh:

[Nick VR4]

This is from the MLR forum a tutorial on how to do it on a Evo

http://www.lancerregister.com/showthread.php?threadid=18708&highlight=Tappets

Also some other advise for MLR

Cars affected:
All hydraulic tappet cars (Lancer 1800 RS/GSR, Evo 1-7)

Symptom:
A noticeable ‘ticking’ noise from the top of the engine. Usually appears when starting the engine from cold but can persist.

Problem and cure:
The noise is caused by air being trapped in the Lash Adjuster (Hydraulic Tappet). Normally the high-pressure chamber in the Lash Adjuster should contain oil but due to various reasons (listed below) the oil drains away leaving only air present. This causes the adjuster to become compressed. The compressed adjuster does not take up the clearance between the roller rocker and the cam lobe correctly when the valve is opening meaning a ‘ticking’ can be heard. It may take a short period for the air to be expelled after starting the engine so some ‘ticking’ noise is acceptable however, if the noise lasts for a long period or doesn’t go away at all then there maybe a problem.

Air can be trapped in the adjuster due to several reasons that are listed below:

Incorrect grade of oil used (too thin or thick).
Old oil (debris in the oil may block an adjuster).
If the car is stood for a long period or if it is stood on an incline (the oil will drain from the adjusters).
Over filling the engine with oil (if the oil level reaches the crank it may churn air into the oil that will migrate to the lash adjusters).
If the tappet noise does not disappear soon after start up (5-10 seconds) then try some mild racing of the engine. Gradually increase the engine speed to 3000rpm (over 30 seconds) and then gradually decrease it back to idle (again over 30 seconds). Repeat this roughly 10 times. If the tappet noise disappears then the air has been expelled from the Lash Adjusters and they are working normally again. It is worth checking your oil level and condition as that maybe the cause of the air entering the Lash Adjusters in the first place. Change your oil if in doubt. Make sure you use the correct grade of oil as going too thick or thin can make matters worse. Mitsubishi quote 10W30 as the correct grade of oil to use. If an oil change makes no difference then the adjusters are either blocked, worn (spring inside becomes weakened) or damaged and will require cleaning or possible replacement. Garages will normally replace them as it is more cost effective than cleaning and usually they will replace the whole set of 16. A competent home mechanic can clean or replace the Lash Adjusters. If in doubt consult your servicing agent.

Approximate cost of repair:
Oil change = £30-£50
New Lash Adjusters are approximately £20 each inclusive (fitting approx. 2-4 hours depending on the number to replace)

Back to question page

[Big Ian]

is this the same way as i would do my engine?.it's a 4G63 2000cc 16v 4cyl..

[Nick Mann]

I'm pretty sure it is. I am also pretty sure that it is the same for all 24 valves in the V6. The principle is the same in the 4 and 6 cylinder engines, turbocharged or not.

[Nick VR4]

Yeap I do to think its pretty near the same set up :D

[Kieran]

The only thing to bear in mind is that the 4G63 pictured there has two camshafts. The GLS version of the 4G63 has one cam in the middle of the head and uses a different rocker arm assembly. Given that all 16 valves are actuated by one camshaft, I'm not sure if you'll be able to prise the adjusters out in the way described in that article.... :shifty: