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Nick Mann
19-05-2008, 10:40 PM
Is there anyone who doesn't know about my dodgy box yet? :P

It all started on friday, on the way down to Chippenham......

1st symptom:
We stopped for fuel on the M5, at Michael Wood services. (The fecking rip-off merchants!) On starting the car after fuelling, I thought the battery was giving up the ghost - it was turning the engine, but not fast enough to start it. I'm confused, as the engine is lovely and warm, and the battery has just had the best part of an hour at over 3000 rpm. I scratched my head, looked at the engine, scratched my head again, and then tried the ignition switch again. It started perfectly. Huh? Shrugging my shoulders, I dropped the bonnet and carried on down the motorway. Maybe this is unrelated, but my car has behaved very well recently and has been getting better and better since the MAP2 was installed.

2nd symptom:
15-20 minutes later, getting off the M4, I stopped at the top of the slip road. The car changed into first, but it took a while and then slammed in to gear. The next few gear changes were dodgy. I figured that sods law meant that the only fluid I hadn't checked before I set out was low, so I phoned Kieran to bring me a litre of ATF. The box felt exactly like there was not enough fluid in it.

3rd symptom:
Saturday morning. D-Day. On pulling out of the hotel, the gearbox was changing gear even worse. A few miles down the road and I got a flashing N and stuck in 3rd. A quick key off and back on again cleared that, but the gearchanges were still a bit wierd. One time in particular, the box changed down and it felt like I had got awesome engine braking. Like being in 2nd with the clutch engaged but the ignition turned off. I got to the back of the queue outside Combe, at which point the dash said the car had selected 1st, but had it buggery! No drive has been forthcoming since.

4th symptom:
On rolling the car backwards into my garage, it became apparent that every few inches the gearbox (or something else in the driveline?) is grabbing. It is like pushing a manual car that is in gear. The car was in N. Starting the engine again, there is no connection between it and the wheels, so how can the effect I'm feeling be turning the engine over?

I have a few ideas, and I will be updating this thread as I go along. If anyone feels they have some useful info, please speak up!

Nick Mann
19-05-2008, 10:43 PM
My first plan of action is to try and measure the hydraulic pressures in the box before I start dismantling. The Auto Gearbox manual in the library has some interesting and hopefully useful info. Certainly, the pressure reading points on the VR4 box appear to be the same layout as the V6.

My initial problem here is that I need a pipe nipple or hose connector with a male M8 thread. Everyone here seems to use BSP still! Does anyone know of a good quick source of metric/bsp convertors or metric hose connectors?

ANTHONY
19-05-2008, 10:46 PM
Does anyone know of a good quick source of metric/bsp convertors or metric hose connectors? try a good plumbing shop

psbarham
19-05-2008, 10:51 PM
any company that does hydraulic fittings will have them, someone like pirtek or designation, failing that a farm machinery dealers may have something

edited to add

http://www.pirtek.co.uk/service_centre_details.php?site_id=60

Nick Mann
20-05-2008, 07:02 AM
Tony - trust me, I have tried several good pipe fitting shops! Even the pipe fitter at work is stumped!

psb - we use Pirtek at work - I'll find out!

bradc
20-05-2008, 07:32 AM
I think one of these would fix it.

richy rich
20-05-2008, 08:30 AM
How about a bango and brake pipe should be able to make your self something up that way.

pitslayer
20-05-2008, 08:44 AM
how will playing a banjo with brake pipe help here /pan

pirtek are pretty good for fittings, but the best banjo i have ever seen made was for a twin 40 DCNF webber which snapped off, was made out of a bolt, lathed down in a garage, head cut off it, bored out, was very cool to see

Kieran
20-05-2008, 08:58 AM
....On rolling the car backwards into my garage, it became apparent that every few inches the gearbox (or something else in the driveline?) is grabbing....

Aaaaah... That explains the odd sensation I could feel in my GLS as I towed you in - There was an 'oscilating' feeling as I towed you - Almost like you were rapidly, but very lightly touching the brakes. At the time I just put it down to the rope being a little bit elastic because of the weight.

Hmmm.....:inquisiti

Mark 4
20-05-2008, 09:30 AM
Nick, try here and let me know if they have what you need.

http://www.tom-parker.co.uk/index.php?v=1&recall=true&

richy rich
20-05-2008, 09:47 AM
exact engineering might be able help.

Kieran
20-05-2008, 10:58 AM
The other place I can think of is Think Automotive:

http://www.thinkauto.com/

pezza
20-05-2008, 11:11 AM
I would echo exact engineering too... (These guys provided the brake hoses in a group buy ... I think)

Sorry to hear about your woes Nick...Like you say, when the car is running too well it's only a matter of time :thinking:

That slamming into gear brings a sickening feeling to your stomach when you start to think what the worst case scenario could be... Draining the ATF fluid may confirm a shafted box. The discharge was grey/green from the clutch material, with metal flecks... I think that when the gearbox was pulled apart I think some sort of broken linkage may have broken. May car should shift very hard from 1st to 2nd then up to third normally, before the flashing N light. Slowing down it would shift back to 1st almost locking the wheels!

The 4th symptom you mention is what I encountered when my diff was shot, and it was almost impossible to push from rest for, what seemed like, once every complete wheel revolution. I could also hear a click/clunk when pushing past that sticky point. Am guessing that a defective box could cause a similar experience tho if the gearbox was still engaged in gear somehow.

I hope you manage to find out what the issue is very soon mate and then get the car back on the road..

White Lightning
20-05-2008, 12:22 PM
Hmm ... reading Pezza's post makes me wonder whether the problem is not the gearbox at all (as the ECU seems happy) but in fact is something drive related like the transfer box? Does the drive for all four wheels come from the transfer box? I can't remember ...

Nutter_John
20-05-2008, 12:25 PM
Yeah you output shaft goes from the Gbox into the xfer box then that goes to the front dff and rear diff , so a feck xfer box would give symptoms that have been described . when you select gear does the speedo go up as it is drive off you output shaft if it does then it will be your xfer box , if not then you could have a fecked box

White Lightning
20-05-2008, 12:27 PM
I remember Andy asking the same question on Saturday. Nick said that the speedo does not move ... so I guess that points the finger at the gearbox again.

Paul Beazer
20-05-2008, 12:31 PM
You and gearboxes Nick, i dont know!

Sorry to see this and hope you get it fixed easily and cheaply (well you never know!)

Nutter_John
20-05-2008, 12:43 PM
yep unless the output shaft has been striped and the speedo sensor has no way of telling what it is doing , until the xfer box is removed

Louis
20-05-2008, 01:08 PM
The stuck in third and flashing N is safe mode (which I guess you know,, but for the benefit of others reading this), I had this and switched of and then on again and it was ok and then harsh changes and then flashing N and staying in third again, it turned out to be one of the Gearbox sensors, there are 3 in there, and my top one had failed.
K mentioned about towing? how far and for how long?

Nick Mann
20-05-2008, 01:30 PM
It was towed for 200 yards and 2 minutes! In N with the engine running. I am not worried about that. Yeah, I knw about the flashing N thing. The one thing I did wrong was to reset the ECU to try and clear the fault before I read the code. /pan Now there is no code and no problem being found!

It is definitely the gearbox, as the speedo does nothing.

Pezz - good info! Draining the fluid is next on the list if I can't find a way of checking pressures.

pezza
20-05-2008, 02:21 PM
My last post sounded like I was p*$hed! LOL sorry :D

But yep draining the fluid was the first thing my mitsu pals did before shaking their heads slowly :speechles

The fluid had a weird plasticy burnt odour too..


Are you looking at your 3rd gear box now? :inquisiti

If you are looking for one... ;)

SGHOM
20-05-2008, 02:48 PM
Is it really over 3 years ago now ??

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8173&highlight=gearboxes

:scholar: :scholar: :pimp2:

Kieran
20-05-2008, 02:59 PM
Is it really over 3 years ago now ??

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8173&highlight=gearboxes

:scholar: :scholar: :pimp2:

Yeah.... But I still stand by my comments I made in that thread. I don't think there's anything that points to them being 'weak' boxes as such. Nick's car has eaten an output shaft and this gearbox was a 2nd hand unit from Mo anyway - it wasn't a brand new box. Other than that, all we've really seen is that they'll self-destruct if the fluid's not right or if they're heavily abused. Okay, they're perhaps not as durable as some but I still don't think they're the liability that people make out.

Look at your old VR-4 as an example.... 1 T/C seal and that was it, despite all the NOS-assisted abuse at Santa Pod!

SGHOM
20-05-2008, 03:20 PM
all we've really seen is that they'll self-destruct if the fluid's not right or if they're heavily abused.

I put in netto's finest @ £1 a gallon for 2 years & it survived !! :thinking: & I would never dream of abusing my gearbox.... never /rally :scholar:

Nick Mann
20-05-2008, 10:42 PM
After a friend of Vickys making an M8 adapter, I have started measuring oil pressures.

Basically, everything is low. at 2500 rpm, I only have about 1 bar of pressure at the torque converter in any mode. I should be getting 6 bar once in gear. If revved to 4000 rpm, I can get 2.5 bar in drive or reverse, which is enough to start the wheels moving. I'm not sure it would be enough to actually move the car though, if the wheels were touching the floor!

Looking at page 58 of the Automatic Transmission Workshop Manual (http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/uploaded/3/1176028114.pdf) (yes, I know its the FWD box, but it is very similar!) it looks like I am looking at possibilities including:

Incorrect transmission control cable adjustment. (It's not this!)
Malfunction of the oil pump.
Clogged internal oil filter.
Clogged external oil filter.
Clogged oil cooler.
Malfunction of the regulator valve.
Malfunction of the relief valve.
Incorrect valve body installation.

So a few things to check! Next step is to drain the oil. I am relatively sure that the oil filters are okay, although I can't be sure about the internal one. The last Amsoil change (a couple of months ago) did not give rise to anything weird, so lets see what this sump full reveals!

The oil cooler can be checked relatively easily. The solenoid valves are (I think) getable at without removing the box, so they will be next. The internal filter and pump I think are a box out job.

I have got the day off work on thursday - guess what I'll be doing! /pan

Roberto
20-05-2008, 10:57 PM
By the sounds of that, its likely the box is not foobared then.

May be a bit of work to sort, but not as bad as originally suspected.
Which has to be good news.

Have a good productive day Thursday and hopefully it will shed some good light on the subject.

pezza
21-05-2008, 08:42 AM
Good luck geeeza...


Sounds promising Nick.... really hope its a clogged or blocked something that can be cleared..

So the box was able to change in and out of gear ok when suspended off the floor?
Is it still slamming into gear?

Hope its one of the problems that you listed. Am sure you will have fun taking out the box in anycase and make sure you are not underneath it, like my foot nearly was when removing mine :thinking:

Is there anywhere you can get a diagram or manual showing the internals of the VR4 box? Can only imagine what it looks like inside one o those boxes :inquisiti

Nick Mann
21-05-2008, 10:06 AM
There are manuals for similar boxes, but I haven't seen a manual for the VR4 box. Some of the diagrams are a bit hard to understand!!

The car was changing up gears and driving all four wheels whilst suspended. It all appeared to be doing what it should, BUT it took over 3000rpm for anything to happen. Normally, a VR4 will drive the wheels at idle when sitting on axle stands, so something is very wrong. I'm not yet convinced that it isn't something major, but we'll see.

pezza
21-05-2008, 10:41 AM
Thats sounding better than before then; sounds likely that it is linked your readings re low pressure. maybe sufficient pressures are attained when engine running at 3k to kick things into life?

I will have natter with mate to see if there is any literature that will be helpful.

Cheers

pezza
22-05-2008, 10:57 AM
Lo Nick,

Hands covered in oil yet? ... thats engine/gearbox oil, BTW :speechles

Like I mentioned yesterday on the blower the mistu dudes are fearing the worst esp if its slamming into gear. Its either one of the two clutches for changing up or down..(depending on whether problem is seen changing up or down). Also the fact the car appeared to be binding when pushing in neutral isn't good...

Try getting the car into 4th on the stands and see if it goes back into safe mode in 3rd. Be weary of the dump valve tho, this time :D

They reckon the loss in pressure could be due to either TC, oil pump in the unit, the spindle or the main solenoid in the valve body, at the front of the box (which can be fairly easily removed). I haven't seen what they are on about as I have not taken the box apart myself but the 4 speed tip and 5 spd (also in the FTO I think?) should look basically the same, if you have the service manuals for those.

Before opening up the unit, the colour of the ATF should help decide how far you go with investigation.. so maybe check that first.

As for replacement parts, I understand that the internals can be a sod to get hold of, unlike the audi boxes mitsu dont seem to sell bits out of their boxes as readily...


Good luck geeza... let us know what you find..

Nick Mann
22-05-2008, 09:58 PM
Well, Major thanks to Richy for help, parts and advice today. We have removed, stripped, rebuilt and refitted the box today. AND IT STILL DOESN'T FECKING WORK!

On stripping the box, we found that the oil pump was broken. I think it may still have worke, but not well. We peared around the rest but couldn't see much else wrong. The solenoids all gave a consistent resistance reading, the gears all looked in one piece, the easily removable bits were removed & checked. We robbed a pump off another broken gearbox, in MUCH better condition and re-assembled. I was optimistic that the broken pump, which tied in with the possible reasons in the manual, was the cause of my woes. Alas....

One other observation, which wasn't good, was the amount of small metal particles floating in the oil. Most of it wasn't magnetic, but a couple of small lumps were. I am prettty sure that the majority can be explained by the damage in the oil pump, but maybe not all of it. The other issue is that I have no idea how far the bits from the oil pump travelled before they came to rest in the sump. Who knows how many other components have been damaged on the way? That something else is broken is certain, most likely the pump is the cause or effect of the other. Unfortunately, I think it could be a waste of time to investigate much further. I will do a couple more checks tomorrow evening, and then I think it is time for the manual conversion.

Pezz - it looks like your guys were right. replacing the oil pump did give me more wheel action at lower revs, but this time I had a funny noise when in reverse. Best described as a clicking/crunching noise. Not good!

Once again, big thanks to Rich! Getting a box out, stripped, rebuilt and refitted in one day is quite an achievement, even with both of us there! :thumbsup:

Kieran
22-05-2008, 10:26 PM
Bloody hell - Box out and back in a day!!:speechles :speechles Cracking work you two!! I think I'd just be still staring at the car in despair!!/pan

Hats off to you!!:afro:

richy rich
22-05-2008, 10:33 PM
No prob Nick, just gutted the pump wasn't the only problem.

K as for box out and back in, In a day I have done that on my own before but it was a bloody long day.

Time for that Man conversion. /haz

richy rich
22-05-2008, 10:35 PM
Rep cough cough.

bradc
22-05-2008, 11:28 PM
Sounds like you worked hard, pity that it wasn't just the pump.

What happens now when you put it into Drive? You mention that it starts to go now at lower revs, but nothing too specific.

Lillywotsername
23-05-2008, 08:36 AM
Well I am going to thank Vicky for feeding you and Adam, Richy, especially as it was at such short notice.

Thanks Vicky.... You are a star xxxx

Hope you get it sorted soon though Nick.

Nick Mann
23-05-2008, 09:53 AM
Thanks to you too, Lorr, for lending me your men! :P

pezza
23-05-2008, 10:00 AM
buggggggga .... The oil pump sounded hopeful when you explained its condition yesterday.. altho hearing about the contamination in the fluid usually spells bad news.

When these boxes let go, its almost always with terminal results :-/

Good work to both of you tho to get the box out and back in so quickly... Roll on the UK's 2nd / 3rd manual conversion? I reckon tho, that you will be ultimately happier with manual box as you have been talking about a manual since you tried to flog me your old facelift VR at japfest in 04 (was it?)

Good luck geeeza....

bradc
23-05-2008, 10:13 AM
TRE 3.73 final drive gearset

http://www.teamrip.com

You know you want to

White Lightning
23-05-2008, 10:21 AM
Good work guys ... at least now you can now say that you did all you can to try and get the current box working again.

So, you won't feel so bad spending the money on the bits for the manual conversion :D

Subaru ETA
23-05-2008, 11:03 AM
jezz thats a good effort!! bits of the pump havent gone through a valve damaging it internally?

Nick Mann
23-05-2008, 01:22 PM
jezz thats a good effort!! bits of the pump havent gone through a valve damaging it internally?

Possibly, but the 6 valves that are easy to get to are gear valves, not the main regulator and relief valves. That would be the next port of call, but I'm not sure if it is worth ripping it apart again, finding another problem, putting it back together and then discovering I haven't cured it again.

Brad - given the cash, I'd be ordering that final drive and a cusco twin plate. In reality, I don't have the spare funds at the moment.... Maybe next year? ;)

Turbo_Steve
23-05-2008, 06:57 PM
Nick,

Just a thought, but I'm assuming you've pressure flushed all the internals? Would be gutting to think it was misbehving just because a little chunk of metal was jamming a valve or blocking a pipe?

Ah well, it does sound like you needed an excuse to "go manual" anyway :D

bradc
23-05-2008, 09:12 PM
Once you've sorted a manual box, it probably is worth pulling it apart and checking everything, but the first thing at this stage is probably putting the car back together.

Spirit
23-05-2008, 11:36 PM
Sorry to hear the pump was not the issue, but bl**dy fantastic work to get the box out and back the same day.....well done guys !

Good luck with the likely manual conversion

Nick Mann
24-05-2008, 05:05 PM
Auto box back out.

Now I need to work out what I don't have for the manual conversion!

Just for info, the oil pump looks like this:

uploaded/408/1211644991.jpg

You can see the damage to the inner gear on the outside edge of the teeth. The outer gear is cracked through. The aluminium casting is missing a fair chunk on the fin that seperates the inner and outer gear.

Kieran
25-05-2008, 12:35 PM
So, one output shaft and one oil pump.

TBH that's not bad. Oil pump I suppose could go at anytime, irrespective of power, and the output shaft is a weak point whether it's a manual or not, so overall I sill think the Auto is a pretty tough unit, all things considered.

The Vee
25-05-2008, 02:30 PM
Good work and interesting read. Only thing I'm wondering is that the pump has actually been damaged as the result of something else letting go first and then the "bits" getting into the pump and causing it to fail.

Nick Mann
25-05-2008, 07:34 PM
Yeah, Andy, it could be. I don't know what has broken first - whatever the problem still is, or the pump. TBH I would guess that the pump went first, as fixing the pump hasn't changed the behaviour of the auto box. You'd imagine if the problem ocurred before the pump failed, then the pump wouldn't have destroyed itself quite so splendidy! The pump being below par could be the reason why the box has never behaved properly since I put it in. Certainly, the box has been apart before - someone had sealed it with silicon!

Nick Mann
25-05-2008, 07:41 PM
Just to keep you informed of todays progress - I now have three pedals and a clutch master cylinder! :D
This job was not as bad as I thought it could have been, although drilling a 38mm hole in the bulkhead is a bit scary! Fortunately, the reinforcement is still there, so you have a ready made template as to where to drill. I have then painted the bare metal, to try and prevent rusting. My car has enough of that already!! /pan

I have also identified some bits I need to buy and would like to buy:

MD770577 - Shift bracket (Holds the shifter cables to the gearbox) Mine is broken. I have all the bits, but fixing will not give the rubber insulation that the bracket is designed to have. If its expensive then I will fix the old one!
MR145619 - Clutch release bearing. This is the same part number as the Evos, and it seems that it can be bought for around £30. Mine is a bit dodgy, so a good investment I think.
MR198557 - Transmission engine mount - a different design to the auto box, and to be fair, my auto box mount is well past its use by anyway!
MD730979 - Reverse switch. I'll have to work out how to wire this in too, I guess!

richy rich
25-05-2008, 09:22 PM
Good work that man.

White Lightning
25-05-2008, 10:11 PM
Good work Nick :thumbsup:

psbarham
25-05-2008, 10:52 PM
lazy ****, one pedal and a master cyl in one day/pan

i've fitted a 2.3 rwd volvo lump in a 205 and rebuilt the 5 link rear axle for it, some people are just lazy /lol

Nick Mann
25-05-2008, 10:54 PM
I only spent 2 hours on it today! I do have other things in my life! /pan :P

Nick Mann
30-05-2008, 09:28 PM
Well, a hard day working on it today, and I am quietly optimistic about the progress I have made. I made a flexane gearbox main mount in the week - it is a two week special order jobbie and the auto one doesn't fit. (It is knackered, too!) The plates on the end of the crankshaft have been swapped for the manual jobs, the gear linkage is now installed, the clutch has been fitted to the gearbox, and then the GEARBOX HAS GONE IN! /Banana

The transfer box has been fitted, the clutch bled, the downpipes back on, the rollstoppers fitted with the cross beam, and the fluids put in the transfer box and gear box. I have also shorted out the appropriate connections on the inhibitor switch plug, so the car thinks it is in Neutral. Hopefully this will allow me to drive it as a manual without the ECU throwing a wobbly!

So tomorrow morning should see the driveshafts, wheels, intake pipework and the rest of the dashboard reinstalled, then lets see if it works! :inquisiti

Keep your fingers crossed for me! :D

bradc
30-05-2008, 09:41 PM
cool, you should be done by lunch time!

Nick Mann
30-05-2008, 09:52 PM
Depending on what else goes wrong. I put the gearbox in the first time, then had to take it out again. The flywheel plate was the wrong way round! /pan The only pdf I could find showing it was a naff one for the oil seal replacement, and the picture wasn't clear! Still - got there in the end!

If all is don by lunchtime tomorrow, I will be a very happy man. Like I say - it all depends on what else goes wrong!

White Lightning
30-05-2008, 11:14 PM
Excellent work Nick, I must admit I didn't expect it to be sorted as quick as this ... great stuff :D

Subaru ETA
30-05-2008, 11:22 PM
Depending on what else goes wrong. I put the gearbox in the first time, then had to take it out again. The flywheel plate was the wrong way round! /pan The only pdf I could find showing it was a naff one for the oil seal replacement, and the picture wasn't clear! Still - got there in the end!

If all is don by lunchtime tomorrow, I will be a very happy man. Like I say - it all depends on what else goes wrong!


lol dont worry. i guy i work with did exactly thhe same thing! put it togeter after doing his clutch, went to start it and it all locked up!! and hhes a qualified mechanic of 10 years!

good work getting it sorted so quickly

Kieran
31-05-2008, 12:22 AM
Bloody hell Nick, you've been busy!! Fingers crossed for you tomorrow! Hope it works out!:afro:

Nick Mann
31-05-2008, 06:04 PM
OOooooohh yeah, baby! :afro:

Although, do make sure that the front actuator has the pressure line connected - 1.3 bar unmapped in 2nd gear is awesome, even with the car full of the club gazebo & flags! /pan

richy rich
31-05-2008, 07:13 PM
OOooooohh yeah, baby! :afro:

Although, do make sure that the front actuator has the pressure line connected - 1.3 bar unmapped in 2nd gear is awesome, even with the car full of the club gazebo & flags! /pan
:afro:

Paul Beazer
31-05-2008, 07:57 PM
Im guessing success?

richy rich
31-05-2008, 08:01 PM
Im guessing success?
ooooohhhhhhhh yessssssssss

White Lightning
31-05-2008, 10:07 PM
:2thumbsup

bradc
31-05-2008, 10:12 PM
Cool :)

Nick Mann
31-05-2008, 10:54 PM
I have done a whole mile in it! And tomorrow I'm off to Silverstone! Don't think I'll track it yet though.......

Got to get used to having a third pedal again too! And isn't an SSQV annoying when you hear it on EVERY gear change? :P

ANTHONY
31-05-2008, 10:57 PM
well done Nick and welcome to the real world

Kieran
31-05-2008, 11:19 PM
Crackajack Nick!

So, is it faster? Does it feel good?

What clutch have you used?

Nick Mann
01-06-2008, 07:15 AM
It is a standard clutch at the moment, but it didn't slip in 2nd at silly boost, so lets see how long it lasts. This wouldn't have been my preference, but a member sold me one at a very fair price, so it saved me spending huge amounts on a silly clutch first. (Cusco twin plate anyone?!) Faster? Not sure yet. It's certainly nice to put your foot down in a gear and the car stays in it, with no strange rev rise before speed etc!

I'll do some serious testing soon, but first I want to spend a couple of hundred miles bedding everything in. Then I'll change the gearbox oil, check that bolts are still tight, and take it from there.

bradc
01-06-2008, 07:41 AM
Kenneth has a twin plate that is still very nice to drive and do hill starts etc. My exedy is also a lovely clutch. No point in changing it until it starts to slip though.

richy rich
01-06-2008, 06:38 PM
check that bolts are still tight, and take it from there.
Nooooooooooooooo leave them nice and loose, like they were, your car is so good to work on because all the bolts are loose./pan /pan /pan

Physician
01-06-2008, 07:19 PM
Nooooooooooooooo leave them nice and loose, like they were, your car is so good to work on because all the bolts are loose./pan /pan /pan

Lol /pan /pan /pan

Nick Mann
01-06-2008, 08:30 PM
My car is a pain to work on, because you never know if the bolt is a 12mm head or a 13mm! As you well know! /pan

Well, the boost curve is different for a start, so I think I may still have a bad connection somewhere. I'm getting 1.1 bar with the controller set at 0.9. I can't see why the manual should spool so differently though?

I have an issue with the input shaft bearing, I think. It could be the release bearing, but that is brand spanking new, so I think the box is more likely.

I also have an issue with slippage in high gear on high boost, at around 4000 rpm. (Max torque area, I suspect.) This is not due to a worn clutch, so I am sure that the standard clutch is just not able to contain the torque in high gear.
So the plan of action is to save for a twin plate, purchase some new bearings and see if I can afford that 3.7 final drive whilst the gearbox is out.

Overall, I am liking the third pedal, but I need to remember things like taking the key out and then dumping the clutch is not a good idea when the car is in gear and the turbo timer is running!!! /pan

bradc
01-06-2008, 10:31 PM
The torque converter would play a big part in the spool, letting an auto run more boost at lower speeds, also remember the gearing is quite different.

Nick Mann
20-03-2010, 11:44 PM
Just as an update to this thread (Sorry for the huge amount of reading you've just done to get to this post!!) I thought I'd add a couple of photos of the auto box that Richy and I finally stripped properly this week. It just goes to show that we didn't strip it far enough to find the damage last time..... To be honest, the gears in the picture below are contained in their own little drum, so you really do have to get a LOT of bits out before you find them.

Also, the stock clutch is still in there, and still coping providing I don't give it too much abuse! I still haven't got the money together for that twin plate, or the 3.7 final drive!!

The Vee
21-03-2010, 12:55 AM
Nice job Mr Mann - good 'n proper!

pezza
21-03-2010, 01:03 AM
Nice job Mr Mann - good 'n proper!


Indeed, that got a good send off!

3.7 final drive sounds interesting but I guess I am gonna have to read the whole thread to find out?

bradc
21-03-2010, 04:55 AM
Looks like an auto box that did fail from too much power, a first I beleive!

The final drive that Nick refers to is to do with manuals only, changing the stock final drive from 4.111 to 3.73. As attached.