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View Full Version : Pictures in Dawes device Article



bigsed
11-06-2008, 02:33 PM
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8305

Images are not in the article.
Thanks.

bigsed
18-06-2008, 11:00 AM
Anyone got a copy of the article, or images???? Ta

apeman69
19-06-2008, 09:31 AM
bigsed: I'll take a few pics this afternoon & put them in this thread provided someone else doesn't beat me to it.

For fear of hijacking this thread:-
I've just read the article mentioned above (written by paulmc).
When fitting an MBC do you have to disconnect/bypass the factory boost solenoid as the article would imply?
The reason I'm asking is because when I fitted my hybrid Dawes/bleed thingy (http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31684) I simply inserted it in the boost line (red-tipped pipe) off the inlet elbow. I did not disconnect/plug the vacuum hose further down this pipe which connects to the factory boost solenoid. Car seems to go OK and boost is pretty stable at my selected setting. Does the factory boost solenoid need to be disconnected from the boost source and thus taken out of the equation, as implied in the article which appears below?

ARTICLE: Dawes Device Fitting
Note all plastics etc removed, this part is easy just unscrew enough to gain access.

1st and 2nd pic Show a red tipped pipe if you follow this it goes down to a "T" piece pic 3 and 4 you will need to blank off the pipe leaving the "T" piece to the right. You only want flow in one direction, and that is down. either blank the "T" or use a straight connection here.

The pipe you are blanking off goes to the boost control valve do not disconnect the electrics to this as it will register a fault in the ecu.

You will need a longer pieces of pipe to go from the the feed which is the red tipped pipe to the bottom of the Dawes and then again from the top of the Dawes to the Straight connection or blanked "T" piece which ever you have done.

Then find a place to mount it, I have mine close the the air filter for easy access.

To adjust the dawes undo the lock nut and wind in the top for more boost.

If you need more info just give me a shout.

apeman69
19-06-2008, 08:09 PM
The first pic is a zoomed out view so you know whereabouts you should be going.

The second pic is a close up of the inlet elbow (black plastic bended pipe going into throttle body). The pipe marked with the R and which has red on the end connected to the inlet is your boost source. This is the pipe I cut and joined my MBC into. I couldn't be bothered removing engine cover etc and fddling with the connection at the t-piece so I cut the pipe in two and joined device into that. Now, after reading article, I don't know whether I should have disconnected boost solenoid. I didn't.

The third pic is the same area zoomed out a bit. You can see the MBC joined onto the red-tipped boost source pipe toward the bottom of the pic and joined by a jubilee clip. If you follow the red-tipped pipe downwards and into the recesses of the engine then this is where the t-piece and connection to the boost solenoid is, as referred to in paulmc's article. You may want to remove the plastic engine cover and the wide flexi-pipe in the right of the photo to allow easier access to the t-piece and pipework.

Kenneth
19-06-2008, 11:12 PM
Not removing the solenoid from the system will make your boost adjustments more touchy and you will get boost variance as per the ECU boost control settings.

So it isn't mandatory, but does make things a little simpler to setup.

apeman69
20-06-2008, 06:45 AM
Ha ha! Was thinking that maybe something wasn't quite right. I've gotta have the controller turned almost right down to keep it under 1 bar. I'll have to get my tools out again, me thinks!
Thanks, Kenneth.

bigsed
25-06-2008, 08:44 PM
There's another way of doing it here:

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13967

That one basically says snip the wire and join it back up with your mbc in the middle.

It looks like the same method was used on Ingletor's car:
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=31984

Confused!

apeman69
21-07-2008, 10:30 PM
There's another way of doing it here:

Confused!

They're all saying the same thing: cut the rubber pipe with the red end that connects to the (R) on the inlet elbow, insert your MBC in this pipe (where you cut it), job done! However, I'd disconnect/bypass the factory boost solenoid on reflection.

pitslayer
25-07-2008, 10:41 PM
just make sure you put it around the right away, which is i dont know /lol

apeman69
25-07-2008, 11:26 PM
Boost pressure flows from the inlet elbow (boost source) downwards to the wastegate actuator. Effectively, looking at the position of the red-ended pipe connected to the inlet elbow, flow is from the back of the car to the front along the length of this pipe. As long as you know which is the in and out on your MBC it's quite simple.
If you consider that the pipe to cut runs vertically through the engine bay (from the back of the car to the front) then the 'in' on your MBC (or connection to boost source) would face the back of the car and your 'out' on the MBC (or connection to wastegate actuator) would face the front of the car.

Disconnecting the factory boost solenoid is a bit more difficult because it's much more awkward to get to.

Kyle, if you don't want or intend to use your MBC then I'd be interested at the right price 'cos I'm not 100% happy with the one I got. Need something else before mapecu2 (longish-term plan) just for the extra bit of woooohh factor!

pitslayer
26-07-2008, 02:10 AM
to be fair, ive played a bit more with it at mates workshop(private land) and its pretty crap, the spring is far to strong ive stretched it then cut it down and it still hit fuel cut. i wouldnt use it on my car, or let anyone use it on theres its dire, the guy even said he had used it on a few VR4s with no problems. if 18psi isnt a problem and fuel cut is always there