Key Things To Look At When Buying?

[LegnumVR4TwinTurbo]

Hi there,

Malc and Donna here, we're both new to Legnums and we're going to view one on Saturday, hopefully to buy...

It's a 2.5 V6 VR4 Twin Turbo which has just been freshly imported from Japan (getting its plates on Friday).

What are the main things we should check other than the obvious? Are there any trouble spots prone to wear? Any other tips when buying?

Thanks a lot!

Malc and Donna.

PS Is the owner's club like the WSCC, where you have different areas that meet every month? If so when and where to Worcestershire/Gloucestershire guys meet?

[TAR]

Hi /Welcome2 to the club.

If you haven't already done so, take a look at the buyers guide (http://www.clubvr4.com/index.php?page=BuyersGuide)

As with any car, service history is everything.

Check that the cambelt has been done.

If its an auto, drive in 4th or 5th at low revs and accelerate gently, make sure it doesn't judder.

Check the AYC by driving at about 20mph then swiftly steer right and then left, you should see the AYC lights (three green bars) light up. Make sure also that the red AYC light comes on and goes off when starting the car.

Other than that, its pretty much like any other car except it goes FAST!

[LegnumVR4TwinTurbo]

Thanks I shall have a look at that and show the boss when he comes home from work :) It has Japanese service history, but I haven't seen the paperwork yet to see if it's easy to tell what's been done and what hasn't... It's only done 73k miles; if it (cambelt) hasn't been done yet, when should it have been done, or if it isn't due, when should we do it?

[ANTHONY]

Other than that, its pretty much like any other car except it goes FAST!and people look at you

[LegnumVR4TwinTurbo]

Also what format is Japanese service history in? How can we tell what has been done? Cause reading some of that in the buyers guide is really putting us off!

[LegnumVR4TwinTurbo]

And also, after reading the buyers guide, I'm a bit confused about this bit:

"One service item that is essential to look after is the timing belt. With a scheduled swap at 54,000 miles, this needs doing if you are to stop it breaking and then causing the valves to be bent or snapped by rapid collision with the pistons. Combined with a large service, you could be looking at a bill up to a £700, but it’s a lot cheaper than major head surgery, and the interval is long enough so that you shouldn’t be doing it too often. "

Does this mean it costs £700 to replace every 54k? Or is that the cost of repairing it if the valves smash into the pistons? Need to get an answer to this one pretty quick cause if it's the former I'm afraid a Legnum is a no-go for us :(

[Kieran]

Also what format is Japanese service history in? How can we tell what has been done? Cause reading some of that in the buyers guide is really putting us off!

The Jap service book is similar to a UK one, though rather than just a page of stamps, each service has it's own individual sheet (these are folded into the service book) that shows you what's been done (piccies of components with tick boxes) and a section for comments. The problem is of course that unless you can read Japanese, you can't tell if the comments are good or bad!

The best approach is to look for a continuous history with no breaks in the intervals or mileage (Dates might be in the Japanese format, so you may see weird dates like H9/9).

It's also worth asking to see the Japanese auction sheet. If the seler can't supply it, ask why... They need to have a very good reason not to have it. This gives you a good feel for the car - Auctions sheets are explained here:

http://auctions.amayama.com/faq/05/

However.... Don't start loosing sleep just yet. The best way to deal with a fresh import is to assume (unless you have documented evidence to the contrary) that it needs a major service, so get the following done:

Cambelt & tensioners
Water pump (this is a good idea to do whilst the cambelt's off).
Drive belts
Spark plugs
Oils (Engine, Transfer box and rear diff)
AYC fluid (Both clutch and hydraulic system)
Gearbox oil (Use Amsoil ATF if it's a tiptronic).

That might sound a lot and yes, it's a big initial expense, but the peace of mind is worth it and things like the belts and such are then good to go for 45,000 miles/5 years.

Hope this helps!

[Kieran]

Does this mean it costs £700 to replace every 54k? Or is that the cost of repairing it if the valves smash into the pistons? Need to get an answer to this one pretty quick cause if it's the former I'm afraid a Legnum is a no-go for us :(

That means that every 54,000 miles it costs about £700 to get a cambelt done at a Mitsubishi Dealership. If the cambelt snaps on these cars then you get a severe cramp in the wallet - It normally causes quite a bit of damage - quite often it's cheaper to drop in a new engine and save the faffing about!

There's some debate over wether the cambelt interval is 54,000 or 45,000 miles. Personally I'd go with 45,000 but it's your call.

You can get more work done cheaper and with more specialist knowledge though. Eurospec is a very highly regarded place on here. Their price list for the Legnum can be found here - Note that they show the cambelt interval at 60,000 miles. This is pushing it a bit IMHO.

But, as you can see, a cambelt service alone costs just £535 and for that you get the hydraulic tensioner assembly and the water pump changed too. That's a pretty good price.

http://www.euro-spec2000.co.uk/Mitsubishi/Galant/

However, given your comment about £700 every 54,000 miles being too much, well then you really do need to think carefully about your potential purchase. They need attention every 4,500 miles at least and if it's an auto you're looking at 23mpg on a typical commute. In real world terms that means a tankfull (£65+ at today's prices) will get you about 250 miles.

They are fun cars - But cheap they are not and they don't tolerate neglect that well.

Sorry if this isn't what you want to hear but forewarned is forearmed and there's noting worse with getting a car, falling in love and then realising that it's totally vampiring your bank balance! /help

[Nevman]

...In real world terms that means a tankfull (£65+ at today's prices) will get you about 250 miles.

Going downhill only with a serious wind in the back... maybe... /pan

[Ryan]

Going downhill only with a serious wind in the back... maybe... /pan

No ways - I get 250 miles out of every tank with city driving and I am no geriatric driver either! :)

[Kenneth]

However, given your comment about £700 every 54,000 miles being too much, well then you really do need to think carefully about your potential purchase. They need attention every 4,500 miles at least and if it's an auto you're looking at 23mpg on a typical commute. In real world terms that means a tankfull (£65+ at today's prices) will get you about 250 miles.

They are fun cars - But cheap they are not and they don't tolerate neglect that well.


Have to agree with this. If you are the sort to resent a car being expensive to run then a VR-4 is not for you.
My first VR-4 left me scraping the barrel to keep it running but not once did I resent the cost. If I had, I would have hated it.

Before my VR-4 I had a 1997 Galant VR-G 1.8 GDI. I resented that due to it having rubbish fuel economy and no power.

I kept telling people that I was trading in for fuel economy and then they didn't understand why I bought a VR-4. Cost to power ratio, the VR-4 won by a long margin and I didn't mind poor fuel economy when I had the power to go with it.

Anyway, driving cars you resent is just crap. If the running cost makes you uneasy, either wait until you are in a better financial position or simply buy something more economical.

Good luck in your search, whatever you decide.

[Nevman]

and I am no geriatric driver either! :)

Well... Opinion varies... /pan

[rich1988]

hiya, rather than start a new thread ill ask the couple of question i want in here!, im looking at getting a saloon vr4 just wondering how you would change the oil on the limited slip diff since it mentions this in the buyers guide? because thats seperate surely? or am I being dense, currently looking about now should be quite a jump from my 200bhp rover vitesse :D

Also there seem to be a couple of low mileage cheap vr4 saloons on pistonheads? should i steer clear of these as all the others seem to be about 4k? (it appears they are the nasp ones ignore me :P )

[Nutter_John]

In the members area there are guides for chaing most of the fuilds , they are all seperate items so things like the read diff has 3 fuilds ( the diff , the ayc clutch pack and the AYC fuild )

To be fair prices are a little low at the minute due to the fuel prices and that fact most high end performance cars have stalled in the market , you can pick up some excellent bargins , but as always go with your eyes open and you heart switched off , use your head

Depending where you are you may be able to get a fellow member to come and cast an eye over any car your looking at

Oh Yeah welcome to the club

[rich1988]

thanks, yea it wont be till september I actually buy one (my current car is going then) but I may look at a couple before then, it may be worth doing just to get an idea of the cars?

[Nutter_John]

where abouts in the uk are you rich ?
and going off you id if you are 20 years old do you know how much insurance on these car is , they are group 20 and it could cost you 2k plus just to insure one ( not wanting to put you off )

[rich1988]

where abouts in the uk are you rich ?
and going off you id if you are 20 years old do you know how much insurance on these car is , they are group 20 and it could cost you 2k plus just to insure one ( not wanting to put you off )

From wiltshire, insurance isnt to bad its £1369 fully comp with all the extras with admiral, and conisdering a pay £1200 on my 200bhp vitesse I was pretty impressed (with admiral), I have had my licence for two years and have two years ncb which helps :)

[Nutter_John]

Ah so you got a quote from Admiral , I assume you priced up a UK Spec Galant , just to let you know that unless it is a UK spec one (200 of them ) then most high street insurance places will not deal with you , most people use places like A-Plan , Adrian Flux , Sky and one other who i can't remember for now

if the car is advertised as a UK spec ralliart one then you'll be fine other wise it is counted as grey import . mine is galant saloon and classed as an import

[rich1988]

yea thats what I'm worried about really, Ill have to do an import quote later on, because I suppose im dreaming a little if i think i can get a Uk registered vr4 saloon manual :(

[Nutter_John]

there was a 99 uk vr4 saloon on pistonheads for 2750

[rich1988]

:D so they can be had, hopefully there will be a nice black saloon manual vr4 about then :)

[Nutter_John]

hmmm next you'll say you want recaro's with that as well :p


Black = Rare
Saloon vr4 = Rarer than leggy
Manul = Much rarer than auto
Recaro= Rare but not that rare

Black manual saloon with recaros = They are so rare that you'll find rocking horse pooh easier :d

[rich1988]

hmmm next you'll say you want recaro's with that as well :p


Black = Rare
Saloon vr4 = Rarer than leggy
Manul = Much rarer than auto
Recaro= Rare but not that rare

Black manual saloon with recaros = They are so rare that you'll find rocking horse pooh easier :d


I have half leather recaros in my vitesse, reckon they will swap out ;)?