Waaaaagh!!! Dashboard trouble! Help! Help! Help!

[Kieran]

Well, to coin a phrase, "BUGGER!!!" :Cry1: :Cry1:

Right.... Here's the story...

I have a set of Galant Hi-Contrast clocks from a UK Sport. Mo (Zedy1) worked out how to wire the hi-contrast clocks into a standard UK car. So he told me and I had a go.... Basically, I took the feed from the oil level pinout on the back of the dash clocks and bridged it to the needle/backlight circuit.

It didn't work - so I refitted my GLS clocks.

And then the pain started... :stupid:

The Battery warning and the amber oil level light now won't go out!!!

Now... Here's what I've done, beyond the inventing 49.2 new and colourful swear words...

I've tested the oil level warning using the guidlines in my Mitsubishi Workshop manual. Basically, you disconnect the multiplug to the Oil Level warning relay, put a multimeter across pin 1 and any suitable ground and measure the voltage. The readout should be the same as the battery voltage. My readout was 0.96 volts DC :( According to the manual, this indicates a wiring fault or a duff alternator...

However.....

I then turned my attention to the Alternator. Using the workshop manuals as my guide, I've tested the alternator relay for continuity (it's fine), and measured the voltage going across the battery. Again, this is appears to be within tolerance. 14.1 volts are going across the battery whilst the engine is running, with no variance when the engine is revved.
I've done about 30 miles since the lights first came on, and there's no indication that the car is running off of the battery. As far as I can tell, although the warning lights are on, but there's no actual fault?!?!

So, I'm stumped... :headsc:

Anyone got any ideas before I ring Mister Mitsubishi Dealer and get them to extract some more Megapounds from my wallet?? :help:

[zedy1]

did you cut the wire on the pin 4 (i think) which was for the oil levelindicator and connected that to the pin 5 which has +12v ignition (also check your fuses mate)

[Kieran]

did you cut the wire on the pin 4 (i think) which was for the oil levelindicator and connected that to the pin 5 which has +12v ignition (also check your fuses mate)

I couldn't get the multiplugs to release from the doashboard housing to get at the wires, so instead I scraped the plastic coating off of the dashboard circuit paths on the back of the sport clocks and soldered them instead. However, I think I shorted the two pins in doing this.

I have checked the fuses in the engine bay and the ones behind the coin box (to the right of the steering coloum) and all appear to be ok.

[zedy1]

[QUOTE

I've tested the oil level warning using the guidlines in my Mitsubishi Workshop manual. Basically, you disconnect the multiplug to the Oil Level warning relay, put a multimeter across pin 1 and any suitable ground and measure the voltage. The readout should be the same as the battery voltage. My readout was 0.96 volts DC :( According to the manual, this indicates a wiring fault or a duff alternator...


was that with the engine started or just with the ignitin on, also try to unplug the oil level sensor connector, you could have burnt it out

[Kieran]

This was with the engine started. I think the sensor's ok. What's bothering me more is why the Battery light won't go out!! :( :( :(

[Nick Mann]

From recent experience, if the alternator is putting out 14v, the battery light will not be on. Mine had a 'glitch' and only illuminated the light if the voltage dropped. If you have voltage AND an illuminated lamp then I am relatively confident it is not the alternator. The thing is, would a problem with the dash be any cheaper to sort? I hope it's something silly, mate...

[Kieran]

Well - the GLS is at the dealers.:(


And they've just rang and left a message..... :noshake:

The message says that the alternator is indeed shot... :Cry1:

They want to lighten my walllet to the tune of £135 for diagnosis.... :furious3:

The message also says that to go ahead and swap the alternator will cost £369!!!!! :end:


So, that'll be me telling them to shove that price where monkeys shove their nuts and looking for a cheaper option then!!! :wow:


I'm awaiting a call back to discuss the problem... I want to know how they've concluded an alternator fault... :headsc: :shifty:

[enigma]

£135!!!! I guess for that money they had to find a fault! At least your battery is fine.....I mean it has run the car with no charge for a week now!!!!!!! :wow:

I smell a fish......or bird.......or something!

[Nick Mann]

Nuts.

I take it the VX has no alternator? There must be a cheaper one somewhere. Even if it is second hand. Had the car stopped running or the lights got dimmer etc? Like I said before, with 14V constantly, battery light or no, seems an alternator fault is unlikely. My battery light only came on when the voltage dropped significantly. (ie most of the way to zero!) Still hope its not the alternator!

Hopefully their explanation will make us both understand.

[Kieran]

Well, I spoke to them when I got there. It would seem that I've shot the voltage regulator. This would make sense, as you do have a control voltage running from the ignition via the battery light to the regulator...

Arse!:(

I have however found a UK supplier (Nippon Direct) who will supply an alternator for £150 all in :) Better than Mitsubishi's £212 + fitting + VAT!!! :sick:

I guess the next question is how many swearwords would be generated if I tried to change it myself! Anyone done an alternator on the 4G63?? :undecided

[enigma]

Well, I spoke to them when I got there. It would seem that I've shot the voltage regulator. This would make sense, as you do have a control voltage running from the ignition via the battery light to the regulator...

Arse!:(

I have however found a UK supplier (Nippon Direct) who will supply an alternator for £150 all in :) Better than Mitsubishi's £212 + fitting + VAT!!! :sick:

I guess the next question is how many swearwords would be generated if I tried to change it myself! Anyone done an alternator on the 4G63?? :undecided

Errr........maybe I am talking too much sense, but why not just replace the regulator???! Or even better get it repaired by an auto electrician? £40 tops!

[Japmetal]

The man has a point !? As for the altenator;

If it was my 4G63, I'd go ahead and do it myself. I dont, however, know how much space you have around your engine so maybe you should get under the bonnet & check before you go ahead & DIY it ?

SHOULD be as simple as taking off the belt, removing 4 or 5 bolts & unplugging a couple of connectors [My altenator even acts as the belt tensioner, so releasing the belt is a piece of cake]

[Nick Mann]

I'd have a bash or try to get it fixed. Too much money for an alternator! Plus you can then use woman logic on 'I haven't spent £50, I've saved £400! What can I spend that on now?'!

Had feedback on the VR4 alternator last night. Part is £380 + VAT, + fitting should be 4 hours (took them 12 hours as they had never done the job before)so over £600 all in!

[enigma]

I'd have a bash or try to get it fixed. Too much money for an alternator! Plus you can then use woman logic on 'I haven't spent £50, I've saved £400! What can I spend that on now?'!

Had feedback on the VR4 alternator last night. Part is £380 + VAT, + fitting should be 4 hours (took them 12 hours as they had never done the job before)so over £600 all in!

:wtf:

I think with a bill like that you should keep it!

[Nick Mann]

Fortunately, when I bought the car I paid £25 to re-validate the warranty....

Best £25 I have ever spent!! :-D

[enigma]

Cunning plan mode engaged.........what do you think would happen if you put my engine and Dereks gearbox in your car????? :D

[Kieran]

Now there's an idea, lol! :-D

[Nick Mann]

I think the engine number would be different!! I also think it would cost you the several thousand I need to keep my car!!

(Good idea for a moment, though!)

[PUDD]

yeah kieran,get it reconditioned m8
,save a fortune.theres plenty of place by us if u have no luck finding somewhere
:D