Poly engine mounts

[peter thomson]

Has anybody had any luck with the poly engine mount inserts from the States like these .

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=200267726807&ih=010&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=

I've emailed prothane for info on there dimensions but haven't had a reply yet.
They are a very good price if they were to fit.



EDIT: Here is the correct pack from Energy Suspension, placed here for your ease of finding!

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Prothane_PackageDeal001

[Gowf]

I was looking for some, but couldnt find any that werent £300.

So, i bought a bar of nylon and made my own. Cost was about £38 for them all, but then you do need to have access to a lathe and milling machine

[peter thomson]

Thanks Gowf that is what I found as well but unfortunatly I don't have access to a lathe.


I was looking for some, but couldnt find any that werent £300.

So, i bought a bar of nylon and made my own. Cost was about £38 for them all, but then you do need to have access to a lathe and milling machine

[Catalan]

We in our club (Russian) have 3 instalation with poly mounts
got it in USA (on ebay) , buy kit for V6 G3 eclipse, and also one new front mount from this eclipse, (need some custom upgrade for front mount). install it, and all cool :D

we did it for EC5 galant/legnums with 6A13TT inside

[Kieran]

We in our club (Russian) have 3 instalation with poly mounts
got it in USA (on ebay) , buy kit for V6 G3 eclipse, and also one new front mount from this eclipse, (need some custom upgrade for front mount). install it, and all cool :D

we did it for EC5 galant/legnums with 6A13TT inside

Ooooh, that's very good to know - Thankyou! :) :afro:

[Catalan]

not problem bro :pimp2:

the front mount G3 part no is MR272203, for mount need larger holes.

also we use poly for suspression from G2 4WD eclipse, total compatible :)
but not all success after poly in suspression.

here is item id
300201424348 95-99 Eclipse & Talon DSM Prothane Bushing Kit 13-2001

[Catalan]

engine mounts for Mitsubishi Eclipse G3 V6 2000-2005 year made

[Catalan]

and also (engine mounts and bushing kit for suspression) , it's all cheapest then 300$ with delivery in Moscow, Russia :D

2peter thompson, your link is correct, buy it , and also front mount from the same eclipse, as I wrote

[peter thomson]

That's great info Catalan .I was sure somebody outside of the uk would have given these a go and a bargain compared to the oem parts. Have some rep.
:happy:


and also (engine mounts and bushing kit for suspression) , it's all cheapest then 300$ with delivery in Moscow, Russia :D

2peter thompson, your link is correct, buy it , and also front mount from the same eclipse, as I wrote

[Kieran]

Indeed! Have some more rep! :)

[peter thomson]

Ordered a set as my front rollstopper has collapsed so will change them soon as long as the weather is better

[peter thomson]

Arrived today. I'll update the thread as I fit them

[Nutter_John]

how much were they peter , and from where did ya get em ???

[Kieran]

Crumbs, they look serious pieces of kit!

How are you planning to get the rubber out of the casings Peter? Based on my experience with flexane mounts I did, I wouldn't recommend burning them out, particularly as load bearing ones are fluid filled and I don't know how toxic the fluid is. Mine had torn away anyway so I cut out what I could, donned a breathing mask and goggles and then used a drill with a wire brush in it. Downside to that method is that you get little bits of rubber flicked everywhere!

[peter thomson]

how much were they peter , and from where did ya get em ???

These ones John

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/00-05-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-Prothane-Motor-Trans-Mounts_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ50454QQihZ021QQi temZ310104698139QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

They were about £74 including delivery and marked as a gift so no nasty tax. Slightly cheaper than the other ones I mentioned at the start of the post. Seller supplied tracking info and comms were very good.

[peter thomson]

I generally use the burning out method as well Kieran . I have a proper respirator mask but if I find somebody to press them out I'll maybe go that way.


Crumbs, they look serious pieces of kit!

How are you planning to get the rubber out of the casings Peter? Based on my experience with flexane mounts I did, I wouldn't recommend burning them out, particularly as load bearing ones are fluid filled and I don't know how toxic the fluid is. Mine had torn away anyway so I cut out what I could, donned a breathing mask and goggles and then used a drill with a wire brush in it. Downside to that method is that you get little bits of rubber flicked everywhere!

[naughtika]

Peter, have you fitted them to your car?!

[peter thomson]

Peter, have you fitted them to your car?!

Not yet,plan is too change them over holidays at xmas /new year

[Catalan]

I did, I wouldn't recommend burning them out,

sorry but burn is not good idea, good idea is a hammer and chisel, 'coz stock rubber have steel border, and if you burn out rubber, you still need remove this steel border.

sorry not have photos, but process is pretty simple :D

[peter thomson]

sorry but burn is not good idea, good idea is a hammer and chisel, 'coz stock rubber have steel border, and if you burn out rubber, you still need remove this steel border.

sorry not have photos, but process is pretty simple :D

Thanks Catalan I wasn't sure if the shell was still used or removed. I usually cut a slit with a hack saw and that allows the shell to be knocked out fairly easily.

[VR4WGN]

please keep us updated,i have acess to all the right machines,i contract to a guy who lives and bresthes building and rcing BSa motorcycles,he makes his own engines, etc,you name it,so ill hava good machinest to do the job lol,he is very wise,i might buy some nylon and see bout making my own and then pressing in the sleeves to the poly aswell

[zentac]

why not get some made in this country, there are 4 or 5 companies that would probably make some.

[peter thomson]

We in our club (Russian) have 3 instalation with poly mounts
got it in USA (on ebay) , buy kit for V6 G3 eclipse, and also one new front mount from this eclipse, (need some custom upgrade for front mount). install it, and all cool :D

we did it for EC5 galant/legnums with 6A13TT inside

I need the front roll stopper from the V6 eclipse then to fit the front poly bushes. I found that they are a lot bigger today than the Legnum mount. What upgrade work was needed.

[Gly]

how well do the other 3 fit?

[peter thomson]

how well do the other 3 fit?

I'm not starting them now until I have an old set to work on and I've ordered an eclipse mount

[peter thomson]

Missed this one but I had found that part number.


not problem bro :pimp2:

the front mount G3 part no is MR272203, for mount need larger holes.

also we use poly for suspression from G2 4WD eclipse, total compatible :)
but not all success after poly in suspression.

here is item id
300201424348 95-99 Eclipse & Talon DSM Prothane Bushing Kit 13-2001

[Gly]

yep, i have an old set here, just no bush's yet.

[peter thomson]

yep, i have an old set here, just no bush's yet.

Glenn is sorting out a set for me and I'll order a mount from the US or here but I doubt it is stocked in the UK

[Gly]

so let me get this right,
from what I've been reading...

the kit fits fine in all but the front role stopper,

for that you need the MR272203 (3l eclipse spider) mount as well,
and then you can use the front role stopper from the kit as well??

seams a bit silly to buy a new mount just to butcher it??

can the prothane bush not be made smaller?

[peter thomson]

I think you may be cutting in to the holes in the bush if you try and reduce it in size or reduce it's strength. I didn't relise how small the mount was until I had taken it off. The larger mount I would think will be much better in the long run and worth the extra outlay if they are not too expensive.


so let me get this right,
from what I've been reading...

the kit fits fine in all but the front role stopper,

for that you need the MR272203 (3l eclipse spider) mount as well,
and then you can use the front role stopper from the kit as well??

seams a bit silly to buy a new mount just to butcher it??

can the prothane bush not be made smaller?

[Gly]

with the larger mount, would the center of the bush not sit higher up??
and not align correctly on the bracket on the engine?

might pay to try and find a used mount on a US eclipse forum??

[peter thomson]

A new mount in the states is $27 but the postage is $45. Just as well to go for the new one at that price.
If it sits higher then we may be able to drill a new hole on the bracket on the engine mount or fit some spacers on the crossmember.



with the larger mount, would the center of the bush not sit higher up??
and not align correctly on the bracket on the engine?

might pay to try and find a used mount on a US eclipse forum??

[Catalan]

only new front mount, in russia alot G3 eclipse, but owners not have bad for sale :(
I buyed new. in russia price with delivery around 38 Eur.

maybe possible to talk with seller and find compatible bush with our stock mount. but I think it not very interest for US seller :(

[peter thomson]

I ordered a new mount from the states at the weekend but thay have emailed me to say they won't ship to the UK even though you can open an account with UK info.
Now waiting for dealer to get back to me with a cost but I have found another company in the US that will ship to the UK

[Davezj]

interested in this thread keep the info coming

[peter thomson]

Still waiting to hear back on the price from the dealer .I'll chase them up tomorrow and if they can't get the mount then back to the US for one.

[peter thomson]

Still waiting to hear from dealer but Glenn :happy: has sorted out the other 3 mounts to fit the bushs to.

Given up with dealer and ordered on from the States $26 + shipping

[Eric]

If you need me to order them let me know. I have a special address and can get stuff much easier from the states.

My dad works for Napa (huge auto parts chain in the states) and has and will mail me stuff that I need

[peter thomson]

Thanks I have ordered the one I need but I'm sure others will find your offer very useful or there may be other bits I'm after in the future :happy:


If you need me to order them let me know. I have a special address and can get stuff much easier from the states.

My dad works for Napa (huge auto parts chain in the states) and has and will mail me stuff that I need

[Gly]

so have you tried fitting any of the others yet?

[peter thomson]

so have you tried fitting any of the others yet?

I have just got the set from Glenn to modify and the eclipse mount will be shipped next week. I would have been working on them this weekend but the solenoids for my bro's gearbox have arrived so that will be done first.

[keithatport]

I thought you would be doing your wheel bearing first.

[peter thomson]

I thought you would be doing your wheel bearing first.

Done this afternoon/Nuuu

[peter thomson]

Pics and info later when the forum is sorted

[peter thomson]

I removed the old bushes in the 3 mounts Wodjno :iloveyou: sent me. Here are some pics and if anybody thinks an article about removal I'll get that done later.
Typical example of old mount.
uploaded/2374/1232491122.jpg

Bush removed
uploaded/2374/1232491235.jpg

New poly bush fitted
uploaded/2374/1232491328.jpg

2 done
uploaded/2374/1232491423.jpg

All 3 done
uploaded/2374/1232491488.jpg

Total time to do these 3 was about an hour and a half. I think they look great and fitting was a breeze compared to the bushes I've changed in my old Landrover and Range Rover.

[Kieran]

How did you get the old mounts out Peter? Burn them or cut them and then drill/brush the rest out?

[peter thomson]

How did you get the old mounts out Peter? Burn them or cut them and then drill/brush the rest out?

I used a sabre saw rather than a hacksaw to cut the steel casing of the bush as they tend to cut more into the ends and leave a fair bit of metal in the centre.
Where I could I just cut out some of the rubber bush with the sabre saw but as you know there are some other bit of metal inside the rubber but they didn't seem to pose any problems. When I had a nice cut all I needed was a sharp chisel to remove the shell
uploaded/2374/1232492182.jpg
Started off like this too pull the shell away from the mount and with few smacks later it fell out
uploaded/2374/1232492243.jpg

uploaded/2374/1232492461.jpg

The mounts only needed a clean up with some scotchbrite and a file if there were any burrs. Only the mount above the gearbox was oil filled. Mucky stuff.

[Davezj]

how does the car feel now with the new poly mounts.

I would imagine there would be more vibration.

[peter thomson]

how does the car feel now with the new poly mounts.

I would imagine there would be more vibration.

They aren't fitted yet Dave with the work we did on Keith's gearbox. If I have time the plan is to fit them this weekend but still waiting on the front roll stopper to arrive. The car is suffereing from vibration at the moment anyway due to a collapsed front roll stopper and the gearbox sitting on top of the crossmember.
I don't think it will be that bad with the holes in the 2 new roll stoppers but will let you all know when fitted

[keithatport]

You can always fit them to my car when we change the gearbox and you can have my standard ones.LOL.

[peter thomson]

The eclipse mount has arrived from the states so should get them all fitted this weekend

[Nick Mann]

Good stuff so far. I am watching this thread with interest! I wonder if the manual and auto mounts are the same size bushing? The casting is different.

[Catalan]

bush the same. manual and auto.
all changes in steel mount.

[Nick Mann]

bush the same. manual and auto.
all changes in steel mount.

:thumbsup:

Good info again, thank you!

[peter thomson]

More pics and my findings so far

My old rear roll stopper next to the poly replacement. My old one had dropped a fair bit
uploaded/2374/1232921205.jpg
Rear roll stopper fitted
uploaded/2374/1232921302.jpg
Transmission mount fitted
uploaded/2374/1232921391.jpg
Engine mount fitted. This one need a tap down with arbber mallet to fit into mount
uploaded/2374/1232921488.jpg
Comparison between the eclipse mount and standard one
uploaded/2374/1232921579.jpg
Bush fitted to eclipse shell
uploaded/2374/1232921661.jpg
The mounting points to the crossmember are slightly further apart than the standard mount
uploaded/2374/1232921794.jpg
A liitle bit of work with a round file soon sorts out this minor problem
uploaded/2374/1232921882.jpg
Bolted up to the crossmember
uploaded/2374/1232921957.jpg
The engine is now sitting at the height it should be but very close to the Cusco strut bar I have.
uploaded/2374/1232922182.jpg

On starting there is no movement in the engine and even with applying some revs no rocking can be seen.
Sitting in the car at tickover in neutral I don't really notice any real increase in vibration from before. Placing it in drive there is a little bit but not enough to bother me.
Out on the road with the ecu being reset the gearchanges are more noticeable and until the ecu has relearned it will be difficult to comment.
There is more "road" noise in the cabin but again not enough to be of concern.
Pulling away feels much crisper and it may just be my imagination but cornering feels much better possibly due to the engine and tranmission be held better and not moving about on the mounts and upsetting the handling.

My daughter noticed it was slightly louder as well but didn't comment about any vibration. I'll see what comments my wife make on her way to have some blood taken tomorrow and update thie thread as the gearbox settles down

[Gly]

good work! have some rep.


also as a side note reading through some eclipse/galant forums
the vibration is more noticeable for those with autos,

and does not affect manuals as much

[peter thomson]

Thanks Carsten and a further update

My wife didn't really notice much difference between before and after and she is quick to tell me if there is something she dosen't like.

Also today I noticed less vibration at tickover which may also be due to the engine settling down after the ecu reset.

There is no driveline shunt now going from neutral to reverse or drive. It definitely pulls away better from stationary and gearchanges feel better than before.

Another positive aspect when hitting bumps on the road the engin/transmissions weight has less effect so ride is not as harsh as it has been in the past.

This is a worthwhile upgrade and cheaper than replacing the OE mounts which I don't think will last that long before you at least need to change the roll stoppers again.

[peter thomson]

Where to buy the Eclipse roll stopper part number MR272203 as supplied by Catalan

£69.44 from the stealer. Special order from Japan so 2 week wait probably

$74.90 from ebay in the states http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=190176583115&ih=009&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=

I bought my one from here $25.26 + delivery.(I'll check the delivery cost when I get home) A bit more expensive than than the ebay one but they were supposed to confirm delivery cost before posting. Delivery was quick though.
http://mitsupartsdirect.com/index.html

[miller]

Forgive me.....total sidetracking but how come your engine bay is white when its a blue car?

[peter thomson]

It was resprayed in Japan Mike before coming here


Forgive me.....total sidetracking but how come your engine bay is white when its a blue car?

[Davezj]

pete is you car a manual or auto?

[peter thomson]

pete is you car a manual or auto?

It's an auto Dave

[Davezj]

thats good i just ordered some of these poly mounts from the US.

any chance in getting your old engine mounts so i can fit my new poly bits to them and then give you my old ones back once i have fitted them.

where did you get yours from.

[Gly]

ordered mine today :)

[peter thomson]

ordered mine today :)

Well worth it Carsten

[wintertidenz]

Ordered mine as well :)

[Davezj]

i have got my bushes, but i think i have been a bit of a muppet and ordered the 4 cylinder version of the kit.

pete can you measure the inside diameter of all the old mounts you have so i can see if the bushes i have will fit. i have just checked and i can't even get a good measure on the trans and engine mounts on my car have to start taking thing apart, and if you have them to had it would be much easier for you to do. If t is not too much trouble.

The ones that came in the kit i bought look like the 3 bigger mount that you have, Engine ,trans, rear roll stopper, but the front roll stopper is a smaller one and i am woundering if it will fit the standard front roll stopper caseing. hope you still have that one, as it was no use for your kit.

now that would be a happy accident if it does fit!

but i wont hold my breath.

Thanks Dave

[peter thomson]

Just off to check

[peter thomson]

Rear roll stopper is 84mm
Gearbox mount 78mm
Engine mount 84mm
front roll stopper 69mm

These may be out by a mil or so as I don't have callipers to be as accuarte as I would like

[Davezj]

i am measuring the polly bushes

i used a dgital vernier calliper. and got the following.

rear roll stopper 86mm box part no. 13-507
gear box mount 81mm box part no. 13-509
engine mount 89mm box part no. 13-503
front roll stopper 62mm box part no. 13-510

don't suppose you still have the box part numbers. All of the bushes came in individual boxes with part no. on the outside then these were inside the complete kit box.

[peter thomson]

Hi Dave part number are
13-503 , 13-507, 13-508 and 13-509

[Davezj]

Excellent!

by my roconing it is only the front roll stopper that is different for the eclipse V6 kit to the eclipse 4 pot kit.

and that one might fit the standard VR4 front roll stopper caseing. i actually have a front roll stopper caseing in the back of the shed somewhere. but i will have to pull all the rest of the stuff out of the shed first to get to it.
cheers for all the info Pete i couldn't have tracked it all down without you.

Rep point coming your way.

[peter thomson]

Thanks Dave. Will I be getting a delivery soon?

[Davezj]

well i have checked it out.

I found my front roll stopper casing and i don't think the bushing i have is going to work. The bushing i have for that mount is a odd shape and i can't see how it is going to fit anything.

i will post a pic later to show you.

I will have to try and source one from someone like Polybush. A 70 x 38mm bush with a 62mm long x 17mm ID tube.

I also found i have a spare trans mount on top of the gear box i bought so that is a good.

Here is question for you Pete,
what with black cap on the engine mount is it oil filled or something?
does that mean it is adjustable?

cheers Dave

[peter thomson]

The black cap is a lump of steel and acts as a harmonic dampener. I tried it off the car for a start and then put it back on. Didn't notice any difference though.
It isn't adjustable. The gearbox mount is the only one with oil

[phosty]

How very timely Peter! I've been trying to figure out why I was getting a hopping/knocking when starting from stationary - and just tonight I noticed the driver side engine mount is in tatters. No doubt the others are not far behind.

I just ordered the full set of bushings (Prothane part number 13-1903, $128 inc delivery) and the V6 front roll stopper ($78 inc delivery) all on ebay motors US. No doubt the HMRC will get their cut too.

Thanks!

[peter thomson]

I wasn't charged any customs so you might be lucky as well Phil.


How very timely Peter! I've been trying to figure out why I was getting a hopping/knocking when starting from stationary - and just tonight I noticed the driver side engine mount is in tatters. No doubt the others are not far behind.

I just ordered the full set of bushings (Prothane part number 13-1903, $128 inc delivery) and the V6 front roll stopper ($78 inc delivery) all on ebay motors US. No doubt the HMRC will get their cut too.

Thanks!

[phosty]

Any tips from those who have changed their engine mounts on the best way to support the engine/tranmission whilst changing them out?

[Nutter_John]

Find a new best friend who happens to be called jack :P

just support the side your working on with a jack and a piece of wood to protect the sump or gbox

[phosty]

That's what I was originally thinking but then wondered if it would be sensible to support the engine weight on the sump casing - even using a piece of wood.

[peter thomson]

That's what I was originally thinking but then wondered if it would be sensible to support the engine weight on the sump casing - even using a piece of wood.

That's the method I used Phil without any problems

[Gly]

mine arrived today :)

[Gly]

well been around to a few wreckers today,
and no luck with another option for the front roll stopper,

closest i got was the 92-96 shaped lancer with was the correct width,
but the ID of the mount was 6mm to small.

nothing else has gotten any closer than that.

still going to look into other options,
really dont want to pay $50US shipping for a $30US part,
(around $150-160nzd are the current rate)

i have posted on club3g and TGC to see if anyone can offer me something cheaper

all the reat have gone together fine...

[Davezj]

i was trying the same but from superflex and polybush to see if them could get me a mount to fit the standard front roll stopper.

superlex came up with a civic mount whis was 38mm wide but 78 diamiter and we need a 70mm diamiter mount.

polybush has not got back to me yet so there is still hope.

[Gly]

couldnt find an alternative...

so bought a 2nd hand front mount from the US,
$29usd delivered.

now the waiting begins

[peter thomson]

Was that through one of the US forums Carsten


couldnt find an alternative...

so bought a 2nd hand front mount from the US,
$29usd delivered.

now the waiting begins

[phosty]

My Prothane parts arrived yesterday - that was quick! Without any prompting from me the seller had declared a value of only $30 + $40 P+P so no duty/VAT paid either.

Anyway, I fit the engine mount unit last night. It should be noted that this is also oil filled (it went all over my garage floor). I guess the oil must have leaked out of other peoples?.

One final point to those about to do this - you might need (well I did) a deep reach socket to remove the nuts on the engine mount studs because the studs protrude too high to get a regular socket over - maybe offset ring spanners would work but I don't have any.

[peter thomson]

I just had oil in the gearbox mount. None of the others had oil though I didn't have to cut right through the rubber in all of them


Anyway, I fit the engine mount unit last night. It should be noted that this is also oil filled (it went all over my garage floor). I guess the oil must have leaked out of other peoples?.

.

[Gly]

both the left and right mounts are fluid filled,

and yes... i got me front roll stop from TGC (http://thegalantcenter.net/forum/)

[Beastlee]

I'm about to order some engine mounts and, thanks to Peter advising me about this thread, will aim to go down the poly route.

The Eclipse is a lot more common over here so I'm thinking that I may be able to locate the parts here easier then from the US. Can anyone confirm what Eclipse I'm looking for so I can start looking for a front roll mount.

A little off-topic and maybe requiring it's own thread -
If the mounts are severely worn to the point where the engine moves about half a foot between R and D could it cause the gearbox to delay engaging gear when moving off? i.e if I come to a halt then put my foot down hard to pull out of the junction in a hurry the revs shoot up to 2500-3000RPM before the gearbox decides to pay attention. Scary when you realise you're not getting out in front of that lorry like you thought! Only happened 3 times so far over the space of a month.

[peter thomson]

00-05 Mitsubishi Eclipse V6 Lee

[Gly]

OEM Genuine Mitsubishi Front Motor / Transmission Mount
Part number MR272203


1999 to 2003 Mitsubishi Galant & Eclipse 3.0L 6cyl. Engine


All 1999 – 2003 Galant with a 3.0 L, 6 cylinder engine


All 2000 - 2005 Eclipse & Spyder with a 3.0L, 6 cylinder engine (manual & auto trans)


and 2000 - 2005 Eclipse & Spyder 2.4 L with a manual transmission.

[Beastlee]

Cheers Gly, I will see how much it will cost me tax free from Mitsi then.

[kennyb]

A little off-topic and maybe requiring it's own thread -
If the mounts are severely worn to the point where the engine moves about half a foot between R and D could it cause the gearbox to delay engaging gear when moving off? i.e if I come to a halt then put my foot down hard to pull out of the junction in a hurry the revs shoot up to 2500-3000RPM before the gearbox decides to pay attention. Scary when you realise you're not getting out in front of that lorry like you thought! Only happened 3 times so far over the space of a month.


Something i've just experienced a little of recently with bits of movement from selecting 1st....anyone have an answer? did the mounts solve this problem?

[peter thomson]

Something i've just experienced a little of recently with bits of movement from selecting 1st....anyone have an answer? did the mounts solve this problem?

A failed engine mount can give this effect as can any slack in the drive train

[phosty]

The black cap is a lump of steel and acts as a harmonic dampener. I tried it off the car for a start and then put it back on. Didn't notice any difference though.

I've only done my engine mount so far - but I definately noticed more cabin noise. Not vibration, just a whine that rises with the revs. It was very noticeable at first and to be honest quite annoying. I had left the harmonic damper off since Peter hadn't noticed any effect on his. However I subsequently fitted it and the whine has subsided to being something I can live with.

I couldn't do the transmission mount (as you pointed out Peter) because the captive studs mean you either have to lower the whole gearbox/engine a touch or extract the studs. I couldn't get enough force on the spanner to try the two nut approach to get the studs out. Think I'll try a stud extractor but I don't want to damage the threads so I'm looking for one that fits the specific size.

However, just doing the one mount so far has transformed my clutch action (manual with twin plate clutch). The whole front of the car would hop if I didn't get the engine speed up first - now it's so easy my wife can drive it. Need to get the rest done asap.

[phosty]

also we use poly for suspression from G2 4WD eclipse, total compatible :)
but not all success after poly in suspression.

here is item id
300201424348 95-99 Eclipse & Talon DSM Prothane Bushing Kit 13-2001

Catalan, can you be more specific about which of the suspension bushings were compatible too? Most of my rear suspension bushings are shot and the whole thing rattles.

If some of the Eclipse parts fit that would be great. Polybush/Superflex in the UK only list 1 part (I think) for the rear suspension that fits our cars.

Alternatively I might have to try Richards suggestion:


why not get some made in this country, there are 4 or 5 companies that would probably make some.

Who can you recommend Richard?

[peter thomson]

Glad to hear it has made a difference to it's drivability Phil and a bonus your wife is happy to drive it as well. There isn't a lot of room to undo those studs as you have fond out .I may have used the two spanner method to apply more torque but off hand I can't be quite remember at the moment.


I've only done my engine mount so far - but I definately noticed more cabin noise. Not vibration, just a whine that rises with the revs. It was very noticeable at first and to be honest quite annoying. I had left the harmonic damper off since Peter hadn't noticed any effect on his. However I subsequently fitted it and the whine has subsided to being something I can live with.

I couldn't do the transmission mount (as you pointed out Peter) because the captive studs mean you either have to lower the whole gearbox/engine a touch or extract the studs. I couldn't get enough force on the spanner to try the two nut approach to get the studs out. Think I'll try a stud extractor but I don't want to damage the threads so I'm looking for one that fits the specific size.

However, just doing the one mount so far has transformed my clutch action (manual with twin plate clutch). The whole front of the car would hop if I didn't get the engine speed up first - now it's so easy my wife can drive it. Need to get the rest done asap.

[Beastlee]

I will eventually go down the poly route but for now I got a bargain on 3 of the 4 mounts from Stuartturbo. The gearbox one has already been done on mine so there's the two roll stoppers and the one opposite the gearbox to be changed. Once I have the old ones out I can look at removing the old mounts and getting poly ones fitted ready to replace.

[peter thomson]

latest links for the mounts and rollstopper

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300311027757&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AVRI&viewitem=

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380102500994&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=

[AlanDITD]

Great stuff, belive me gearox mount is on its way out so nice to see its worth doing.

Does it ever stop?

[peter thomson]

Great stuff, belive me gearbox mount is on its way out so nice to see its worth doing.

Does it ever stop?

Nope there always something a bit better out there.lol

[foxdie]

+1 Rep for posting updated links, thanks Peter :)

[peter thomson]

Thankyou :happy:


+1 Rep for posting updated links, thanks Peter :)

[phosty]

OK - I got 3 out of the 4 mounts fitted now. But can some tell how the heck to get at the rear roll stopper? Every angle I tried just doesn't give me enough room to rotate the rachet enough for even 1 click???

[peter thomson]

OK - I got 3 out of the 4 mounts fitted now. But can some tell how the heck to get at the rear roll stopper? Every angle I tried just doesn't give me enough room to rotate the rachet enough for even 1 click???

Hi Phil you need a long or mutiple extension bars through the wheel arch and a spanner to lock the nut on the other side

[Gowf]

Hi Phil you need a long or mutiple extension bars through the wheel arch and a spanner to lock the nut on the other side


That will release the bolt through it, but youve still got to get the other 3 bolts off that bolt it on to the bulkhead. You can get to it better from underneath believe it or not, but you will need the correct depth socket as the steering rack is very much in your way

[peter thomson]

That will release the bolt through it, but youve still got to get the other 3 bolts off that bolt it on to the bulkhead. You can get to it better from underneath believe it or not, but you will need the correct depth socket as the steering rack is very much in your way

I didn't think the other 3 were a problem as I manged to get a socket on the bottom one without too much trouble after finding it's position as you can't see it

[Beastlee]

From what I saw the other day only the top two bolts are accessed from above. You need to take the cross-member out to make life easier, make sure the engine is well supported first.
I'm not sure about the rear facing bolt, that looks a bit of a trickier one.
As for the through bolt, I think a spanner to fix the passenger side then a long extension on the driver's side. You then have more room to work by using the opening on the other side of the exhaust.

Here is a view from immediately underneath, imagine you're laid with your legs sticking out from under the front bumper looking up at the underside of the car.
uploaded/4273/1242859561.jpg
I think the third one is above where you can see the steering rack, in line with the centre of the mount. It faces backwards and there should be room to get a ratchet in.

I've got the photos for the start of the engine mount replacement procedures. Just for the front roll right now but will build it up to cover all but the gearbox one which I don't need to change.

[peter thomson]

Yes top 2 from above and I put the socket on the passenger side and extensions through the wheel arch .Spanner was on the driver's side . Ratchet with a very short extension or long socket on the bottom one.


From what I saw the other day only the top two bolts are accessed from above.
I'm not sure about the rear facing bolt, that looks a bit of a trickier one.
As for the through bolt, I think a spanner to fix the passenger side then a long extension on the driver's side. You then have more room to work by using the opening on the other side of the exhaust.

Here is a view from immediately underneath, imagine you're laid with your legs sticking out from under the front bumper looking up at the underside of the car.
uploaded/4273/1242859561.jpg

[peter thomson]

Latest links

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200337101355&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120429768092&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=

[phosty]

Well, thanks to Peter I now have a full complement of Poly engine mounts. I think it is safe to say I couldn't have managed that rear one without your help Peter. Though being honest I was more a bystander than a contributor to the whole process.

Thanks again!!!

Car now feels much crisper on the gear changes - and no noticable increase in vibration. I still get a slight judder when I bring the clutch up real slow but nothing compared to the engine bouncing antics I used to have. I'm now doubting the installer of the clutch rather than anything else.

Would be good to confirm if those rear trailing arm bushes from the Eclipse kit do fit our own, seeing that at least one of mine is disintegrating as you pointed out. Also the bushing in the front curved arms too?

[peter thomson]

Lol, it was a 2 man job to get those bolt hole to line up. I haven't had a chance to check what's in the box but will try tonight.


Well, thanks to Peter I now have a full complement of Poly engine mounts. I think it is safe to say I couldn't have managed that rear one without your help Peter. Though being honest I was more a bystander than a contributor to the whole process.

Thanks again!!!

Car now feels much crisper on the gear changes - and no noticable increase in vibration. I still get a slight judder when I bring the clutch up real slow but nothing compared to the engine bouncing antics I used to have. I'm now doubting the installer of the clutch rather than anything else.

Would be good to confirm if those rear trailing arm bushes from the Eclipse kit do fit our own, seeing that at least one of mine is disintegrating as you pointed out. Also the bushing in the front curved arms too?

[Beastlee]

Lol, it was a 2 man job to get those bolt hole to line up. I haven't had a chance to check what's in the box but will try tonight.


The rear is the one I have put off so far, there's only me and I don't fancy lying under the car with two mounts off and nobody else around. Now you mention it was a two man alignment process I best finda willing assistant LOL

Incidentally I changed front and driver's ones to standard units but I still get a lot of issues when I swithc to reverse, downshift to engine brake and let off the accelerator quickly after a heavy load on the engine. Really need to get the rear fixed!

[peter thomson]

My one went back in with just myself but they can be a pain as even refitting the standard one on keith's car required 2 people as the centre bolt did not want to line up

[Gowf]

[QUOTE=phosty]
Thanks again!!!

Car now feels much crisper on the gear changes - and no noticable increase in vibration. I still get a slight judder when I bring the clutch up real slow but nothing compared to the engine bouncing antics I used to have. I'm now doubting the installer of the clutch rather than anything else.

QUOTE]


Would be interesting to compare the NVH of your prothane ones, to the nylon ones that i made for mine. Ever since i changed mine the noise of the gearbox is clearly audible, but not too harsh on the vibration front.

[phosty]

Gowf, I have not noted any increase in vibration with the poly mounts - but then both my engine and gearbox mount were in a particularly sorry state to begin with so I can't comment on how they compare to the standard mitsi mounts. My engine mount had totally detached the rubber and with rough gear changes the engine skewed enough for the surrounding bushing metal to contact the bracket metal which was very noticeable!

I did notice (mentioned above) that noise was higher in the cabin once I fitted just the engine mount (did that first). A sort of high pitched whine that rose with rpm. Originally I hadn't refitted the black 'harmonic damper' as I was sceptical of it's effect. Yet when I did fit the damper I noticed a definate reduction in the 'whine'. But it is still louder than before even with it. But now it's much more tolerable. I didn't notice any increase in the cabin noise with changing the the other 3 mounts (again, the others weren't great to start with).

Are you going along to the Crail thing on 28th July? Could compare and contrast then?

[VR-04-TT]

This is the front roll stopper that was used in mine. An Evo 4 ralliart solid rubber bush, direct fit in the stock mount:

[peter thomson]

This is the front roll stopper that was used in mine. An Evo 4 ralliart solid rubber bush, direct fit in the stock mount:

Louis has just pointed out that the above post may imply that an evo front rollstopper is a direct fit.
What was fitted was an upgraded bush for the rear mount of an EVO7 -into the standard front roll stopper of a VR4, part number RA554855K1 as listed by Emanuel on OZVR4. In Oz the bush cost $65

[Beastlee]

Louis has just pointed out that the above post may imply that an evo front rollstopper is a direct fit.
What was fitted was an upgraded bush for the rear mount on an EVO7 , part number RA554855K1 as listed by Emanuel on OZVR4. In Oz the bush cost $65


Peter, that confuses matters further. I can only assume it's an upgraded rear Evo7 bush fitted into the front rollstopper of a VR4??/help

[peter thomson]

Peter, that confuses matters further. I can only assume it's an upgraded rear Evo7 bush fitted into the front rollstopper of a VR4??/help

Yes that's correct Lee

[phosty]

I did note that the front and rear Prothane items were very similar in size if not identical (I got the boxes mixed up) - but the metal inserts were different lengths (the rear one was longer I think) and the rear metal insert had a slighter smaller ID (IIRC).

[VR-04-TT]

Louis has just pointed out that the above post may imply that an evo front rollstopper is a direct fit.
What was fitted was an upgraded bush for the rear mount of an EVO7 -into the standard front roll stopper of a VR4, part number RA554855K1 as listed by Emanuel on OZVR4. In Oz the bush cost $65

So you mean it's not an Evo 4 bush? The "reputed" workshop told me it was an Evo 4 front bush. Sorry to cause any hassles, this workshop has been telling porkie pies to stop people doing it themselves. :veryangry

[peter thomson]

So you mean it's not an Evo 4 bush? The "reputed" workshop told me it was an Evo 4 front bush. Sorry to cause any hassles, this workshop has been telling porkie pies to stop people doing it themselves. :veryangry

Hmm now I'm confused . I'll have to do some checking and you may well be right

[peter thomson]

Ok did some checking and I assumed that VR-O4-TT had the same bush that _ET_ on OZVR4 had fitted.

VR-O4-TT has fitted the EVO front engine mount part number MR197540 which is also used in some FTO's

_ET_ has fitted the uprated EVO bush RA554855K1 into the stock VR4 front mount.

Personally I wouldn't mix the material types but this gives you other options.

[VR-04-TT]

I didn't want to mix the types but had little choice as my gearbox was hitting the crossmember.

Thanks for the info :D

[peter thomson]

I didn't want to mix the types but had little choice as my gearbox was hitting the crossmember.

Thanks for the info :D

I think that just a bit of straightening of the crossmember would have sorted out that problem as I had to sort mine and now there is a good amount of clearence.

[VR-04-TT]

Probably could have, my front bush was sagging substantially though. But I will keep that in mind if I ever have that problem again.

[peter thomson]

Latest links

Polymounts

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310150800465&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

Eclipse front rollstopper

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200337101355&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

[jinglis]

hi peter great work mate

but wondering if you could help, would this kit fit the fto if im using a vr4 engine? all the engine mounting points are the same but wondering if they are the same size?

thanks

[peter thomson]

I'm not sure to be honest. Have you contacted Richard (Zentac) on here as I'm sure he will know. I can't check the parts database at work so I can't confirm if the part numbers are the same.

[jinglis]

i spoke to eurospec and they have solid rubber engine mounts on their vr4 fto so that might be a better route for me

[VR457]

I did notice (mentioned above) that noise was higher in the cabin once I fitted just the engine mount (did that first). A sort of high pitched whine that rose with rpm. Originally I hadn't refitted the black 'harmonic damper' as I was sceptical of it's effect. Yet when I did fit the damper I noticed a definate reduction in the 'whine'. But it is still louder than before even with it. But now it's much more tolerable. I didn't notice any increase in the cabin noise with changing the the other 3 mounts (again, the others weren't great to start with).

Engine mount replaced, same engine whine with revs. What is this 'harmonic damper'? Any pics / diagrams.

[peter thomson]

The harmonic damper is the black lump of metal on the mount in the first picture

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showpost.php?p=399650&postcount=45

[VR457]

Thanks Peter. Better have a look in the morning to see if its there!

[zentac]

i spoke to eurospec and they have solid rubber engine mounts on their vr4 fto so that might be a better route for me

Hi mate, The engine mounts are different, not checked to see if the bushes will fit ours though as I had some custom made years ago. Mine dont look as good as these.

[VR457]

I have the harmonic damper in place. Is it something that could be earthed to get rid of the whine?

[peter thomson]

I have the harmonic damper in place. Is it something that could be earthed to get rid of the whine?

No earthing it wouldn't makw any difference. Have you checked all the pulleys to see if any have tired bearings

[VR457]

The gearbox mounts are shot. Im going to try and get the old damper back and see if a swap helps. Can i get one new from anywhere?

[peter thomson]

New ones from Camskill but the polymount route is a lot cheaper in the long run

[VR457]

I will get the polys done some time. The engine mount is a used replacement in good condition.

What i was asking was if i could get a new harmonic damper from anywhere.

[peter thomson]

It's just a lump of metal so I doubt it will be at fault but a Mitsi only part I would think

[Catalan]

good news. stock front mount like stock G2 eclipes, my friend mistake, and buyed g2 poly mounts. and one good fit in our stock front mount.

later I'll post part number.

[peter thomson]

Hi Catalan you mean just the front lower one is the same size. I'm more than happy having the front mount being more substanial than the original

[Catalan]

Yes, and also poly mount from G2 without holes around middle radius :) I think it's better then G3 mount :D

[peter thomson]

So it's a solid mount like the uprated evo mount than an OZVR4 member found

[Davezj]

Yes, and also poly mount from G2 without holes around middle radius :) I think it's better then G3 mount :D

get the number posted up. i have been after one of these for a while and prothane have never answered any of my email requests for help in finding one for that front roll stopper. i gave the dimensions and everything. not even a response saying "can't help you go away" completely ignored.

but i must be small potato to them. i know i can't buy from prothane directly, i would have to go to one of the suppiers, but you would have thought they would have been more helpfull.

[peter thomson]

Dave try emailing Graham at dst.graham@gmail.com . He works for www.energysuspensionparts.com and may be able to help

[Davezj]

Dave try emailing Graham at dst.graham@gmail.com . He works for www.energysuspensionparts.com and may be able to help

cheers pete, have you got anywhere with the suspension bushes from the other thread.

[peter thomson]

No still not up to any major work at the moment

[Catalan]

sorry for long pause

front poly number for stock front mount is 13-505

[Davezj]

sorry for long pause

front poly number for stock front mount is 13-505

what type is it, is it one of those push the instert in around the original rubber type or is it a full replacement insert type?

[peter thomson]

It's the same as the other mounts but the correct size for the standard mount. I'm not sure how cost effective it would be as you still have to mix and match

[Davezj]

i am going to ask energy suspension if they can do a kit which consists of the following prothane parts:-
Right Upper=13-503 (eclipse V6 00-05)
Left Upper=13-509 (eclipse V6 00-05)
Front roll stopper=13-505 (eclipse 90-94)
rear roll stopper=13-508 (eclipse V6 00-05)

see what they say.

well i have sent the email and will wait see if they reply.

[peter thomson]

Dave it's Prothane that makes those parts

[Davezj]

yes but the prothane parts are on the energy suspension web site. so i presume they are an agent for prothane. they show the prothane part boxes in the pictures. so they can order the parts from prothane and put in a kit for us.
sound resonable to me.

[peter thomson]

yes but the prothane parts are on the energy suspension web site. so i presume they are an agent for prothane. they show the prothane part boxes in the pictures. so they can order the parts from prothane and put in a kit for us.
sound resonable to me.

Yes are you contacting the guy who I sent you his email addy

[Davezj]

Yes are you contacting the guy who I sent you his email addy

yep, Graham the man that can, hopefully!

[peter thomson]

:thumbsup:
yep, Graham the man that can, hopefully!

[Catalan]

ok, I ask my dealer too for compose it :D (usually I buy in summit racing)

[peter thomson]

Thanks Catalan;)


ok, I ask my dealer too for compose it :D (usually I buy in summit racing)

[Davezj]

Well thought i wold update you all. we are talking USD here.

A full set of engine mounts wold be $140 inc shipping but +duty 10% + Vat 15%.

but when i bought mine i didn't pay duty or vat they just shipped straight to me. I suppose i was lucky, they are small enough item so as not to attract attention.

grand total would be about $170 which means you can use the original front roll stopper mount, so you don't have to buy the Eclipse one.

$170 that seem a bit steep when a full eclipse V6 00-05 set is about $72 + $45 shipping + duty 10% +VAT 15% total= $148 plus you would have to get an eclipse V6 front roll stopper mount to carve up to fit the insert. New ones go for about $45 + shipping about $25.

maybe $170 is not such a bad price.

there is always another option and that is to by the eclipse kit and then buy the correct front roll stopper as well. and stick the unwanted eclipse front roll stoppers back on ebay to recoupe some money, but that would probably be a hassle to do that.

i have asked about a group buy and discount for 5 or 10 sets i will see what he comes back with.



what do you think.

[Nick Mann]

I can guarantee a total of four sets to be bought if the price comes down a bit.

Good work bud! :D

[Davezj]

oh by the way, for all of that have bought the V6 eclipse kit which has the wrong front roll stopper bush for our cars original matal casing, we could order a few of theses as well. to satisfy these people me included.

if we can't get a group discount on the actual part price then the shipping will be cheaper to buy together but i don't know how much.

the other option i was thinking of was to take a hit on individual postage cost and take a chance you don't get charged Duty & Vat like when i bought my original set, probably because it was a small package. but we would have to all order them separatly to see if we could get them through under the radar so to speek.

Anyway i will let you know what turns up.

i am going to order the bushes i need to see for my self that they are 100% the ones we need, as i would be mortified if i suggested to other to buy some parts that turned out to be the wrong ones.

the parts are listed as a 2 week lead time, so i will get my order off soon and as i say i will let you know.

[Louis]

Hi,
I received my 13-505 so here are some photos, I would say it will fit fine, the only thing different is length of the metal centre, you will see in the photos. if this were a prob I reckon I can push the old metal into the new poly bush, but will post findings as I will be doing this on Monday.
The metal width fits exactly within the raised sides of the poly bush, although it doesn't look like it does in the photo.

[Davezj]

got a message back from Graham at energy suspension and he would need an order of 10+ sets to arrange a discount. so i asked what sort of discount and what sort of reduction in the shipping can we get. he will be getting back to me. keep your ears open for an update.

and louis post up pics of the fitment. and if it fits OK do you need to clean up the old metal sleve and fit it to the new bush, can you confirm.

cheers louis this is really useful info and will allow a possible group buy to get off the ground sooner than expected.

[peter thomson]

I may well be interested in up to 3 sets Dave. One for Keiths VR4 and 2 to make up a set for an auto and a manual

[Louis]

I already have the full eclipse set, I am doing a bit of a FULL service and changing engines for a freshened up one and doing as much as poss while I am there, all fluids and a bit of rustproofing, I will post info on engine mounts and what I need to do to get them all together and in there. I will look and se, but I am not sure if the centre metal being shorter will make a difference, but if it looks like it may allow crushing I will swap the old one out, I will post findings here, cheers Louis

[phosty]

Interesting that the fornt roll stop are solid polyurethane - the Eclipse ones have the holes as per post#55 (http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/sowpost.php?p=400568&postcount=55).

Can you comment on how close a fit the sleeve is to the bolt that passes though? On the stock OEM mount and the Eclipse mount the bolt is a fair bit narrower which seems odd - compared the rear roll stop which has a bigger bolt IIRC and is a much closer fit in the sleeve. I was toying with the idea of drilling out the holes on the centre member so I could fit a closer fitting bolt to try and minimise any free play (I realise this might increase vibration).

[Louis]

I am not sure if I understand 100%, but you can see (sort of!) in the second photo that the metal centre in the new 13-505 poly bush is the same diameter and bore as the original VR4 mount, it is just not as long, so it is the same as the orig, hope that makes sense.

[Beastlee]

I'd take a set of poly bushes for the auto in a group buy. Having changed mine for fresh standard ones my engine still jerks like crazy if I lift off whilst accelerating hard. It can't be doing anything in there any good.

[Davezj]

The interest in sets of bushes is good, but i want to make 100% sure before opening out to everyone that this replacement front roll stopper really is a direct replacemet.

louis is doing the front one (at the moment/very soon) so that should confirm it.

once payday comes and goes then i will buy the front and rear roll stopper i need to complete my kit for my car fit them and let you all know.

i only want to continue with this when i am completely satisfied that it is ok. i would feel really bad if recommend this part and it did fit. so you wil have to wait until i can get it sorted. there is a 2-3 week lead time on these bushes at the moment. so it is not going to be an instant buy option.

[Louis]

Hi, I fitted all my engine mounts including the front roll stopper. The front roll stopper 13-505 fits in the standard VR4 roll stop metal mount. The centre shaft is the same width as the poly bush, which is shorter than the original, but this is not a problem, just don't overtighten the bracket and squash it!. The space at each side of the bush is not a problem as the side engine mounts stop sideways movement, and the front roll stopper stops roll, not sideways movement.
So all good, all fitted well, will post more when I have driven it, I will also get a couple of pics up.
What I ordered was:
The V6 Eclipse full kit that Peter posted the info on, and I also bought the 13-505, mentioned before, (so I have an extra rear mount that was not used), cheers Louis

[Beastlee]

Nice work Louis, however I'm fairly certain there a repercussions to the bush not being wide enough.

[Louis]

There is literally NO movement sideways on the front roll stopper, (this could be due to the new side mounts). I checked using a pry bar. Although it could possibly move when the car is out and on the road. What you could do is put a couple of spacers or washers each side to be doubly sure.
Personally I reckon it is there to stop the engine roll when accelerating and reving and engine braking, it doesn't act as an engine mount, so sideways movement should not be an issue, but I will keep an eye on it and post findings, cheers Louis

[Nick Mann]

A handfull of washers would be my solution. And would only cost pennies anyway.

[Davezj]

Cheers for this louis. i will order mine now and let you know, placing order now.
then post up for group buy.

can i suggest louis that you strip off all the rubber from the original center tube from the old rollstopper and fit this to the prothane bush this will give the side to side rigidity. well that is what i plan to do.

[Louis]

"can i suggest louis that you strip off all the rubber from the original center tube from the old rollstopper and fit this to the prothane bush this will give the side to side rigidity. well that is what i plan to do."[/QUOTE]

Yes, that would work, i mentioned that I might do that, but when I actually put them all together I decided to just go with it as it was, but I don't see any probs swapping the centre metals, cheers Louis

[Davezj]

Nice one louis, thanks for the updates.
just ordered my front and rear rollstopper inserts.
so i will see how long they take to turn up.

[taupodrifta]

I have read threw this thread and am completely lost as there are talks of different parts from eclipse evos etc. Can someone please give me all correct part numbers I need to order to change all my mounts> Please as my front mount has given way completely

[peter thomson]

This what I have and where to buy them

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120469603372&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AVRI

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200337101355&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT



I have read threw this thread and am completely lost as there are talks of different parts from eclipse evos etc. Can someone please give me all correct part numbers I need to order to change all my mounts> Please as my front mount has given way completely

[taupodrifta]

This what I have and where to buy them

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120469603372&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AVRI

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200337101355&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

So thats all i need to buy to fit all 4

[peter thomson]

Yes that's all you need

[wesleyong]

"The V6 Eclipse full kit that Peter posted the info on, and I also bought the 13-505, mentioned before, (so I have an extra rear mount that was not used), cheers Louis"

The 13-505 we are talking about is referred for a direct replacement for the front roll stop - right? The quote above confused me, wouldn't you have a spare front Eclipse mount if you had bought a 13-505 which is a direct replacement for our front mounts?

[peter thomson]

Yes you will have a spare mount then but Dave is looking into a kit with this mount replaced with one that will fit the standard VR4. I still prefer the larger one than the small VR4 one

[Louis]

[quote] The 13-505 we are talking about is referred for a direct replacement for the front roll stop - right? [quote]

Yes it is a direct fit in the VR4 front roll stop mount, cheers Louis

[Davezj]

yep i can agree it is a direct replacement thanks to louis.

and i haven't forgoten about the group buy.

[matchtheclown]

Not sure if Gly's how to on these things is here or not. But you can find it over at Ozvr4. I also have a guide on how to get to all your engine mounts easy over there too.

I made a custom front engine mount to carry the insert that doesn't fit.

[tesna]

I'm thinking to change all my engine mounts to poly, but the workshop did not recommended it for daily use. The workshop said that if my car used to go to track then poly would be good. But for daily use they said the poly engine mounts just makes engine vibration transfers to the entire car.

Is that true? I know poly is more stiff than original rubber, but by how much? The thing is, poly is much cheaper than to buy original mitsubishi parts, and I heard has longer lifespan.

Currently I saw crack on old rubber engine mounts and I did not feel much vibration inside the car. Only occasionally I heard some clunking sounds when I step on the gas when reversing.

[peter thomson]

The only vibration I get is in D at idle. It is perfect at all other times.

[phosty]

As Peter says - no issues with vibration here either. But then I've never driven a brand new Galant/legnum with as new mounts all around.

[tesna]

Ok, today I just replaced 3 of my engine mounts with PU. Didn't change the 4th (mount near the transmission) because its still in good condition.

When I start the car I notice it produces louder noise and vibrates a little than usual, but I think it ain't too bad. But... when I put it on D and also apply the brakes.. OMG.. I was quite shocked. My car vibrates heavily, its like riding on a tractor or something /JawDroppi

Then I drive it around, the vibrates is gone when I apply the gas slightly, or when my car moving above 20kph. I had no issues driving above 20kph. I like the way the car responds with my foot. Instant action! the gear changes also smoother than before (maybe because of broken mounts).

Previously my car has little vibration when traveling around 40-50kph, but gone above/below that speed. I thought it was my drive shaft needs to be replaced, since I changed all my mounts with original mitsi parts around 3-4 years ago but I still experience slight vibrate around that speed, although I can barely hear engine noise or vibration when idle (when the mounts is new). But now, with PU mounts, the little vibration at 40-50kph totally gone!

Now the question is, is there a way to reduce engine vibration when idling in D position? its very annoying.. I had to push the accelerator slightly and brake at the same time to eliminate vibration. Maybe I should increase the engine's idle rpm? What's the correct method on adjusting rpm at idle? what's the ideal rpm?

I think currently mine sets at 500rpm when idle... maybe that's causing exessive vibration... I'd like to set it around 800-900 perhaps?

[Davezj]

Not sure if Gly's how to on these things is here or not. But you can find it over at Ozvr4. I also have a guide on how to get to all your engine mounts easy over there too.

I made a custom front engine mount to carry the insert that doesn't fit.


Does anyone have a fitting article for the emgine mounts?

i am not talking about fitting the polly inserts in to the original mount casing, i am talking about fitting the whole mount to the car. it is mainly the rear roll stopper. i can do the others fairly easy. but all the info i have found about changing the rear roll stopper is a bit sketchy, there does not seem to be a diffinitive how to guide. i will be able to do it without a guide but it would be nice to have, there seemed to be an issue with the gearbox mount that you needed to remove the rear and front roll stopper bolts to allow the gear box to drop about an inch to get the gearbox mount off.
i don't know if this correct as i only read this in one of the theads.

has anyone writen a a full how to guide.

there is this one that does the polly insert into the original case.

http://ozvr4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4820&highlight=engine+mount+fitting

i think pete thompson did a similar giude to replacing the inserts.

[peter thomson]

There are 2 bolts on top of the subframe which are removed with a long extension bar at the bulkhead. A third one is removed from under the car which goes into the mount and then the subframe. You can't really see this one due to the steering rack but a short extension will fit without any problem to remove the bolt. The centre bolt is undone with a very long extension out through the wheelarch. You may find when you try to fit the new mount that it is easier to remove the front one to allow the engine to rock to line it all up

[Davezj]

excellent!

thank Pete.

[peter thomson]

I would advise replacing them all as you don't really want mismatched material for the bushes as it may cause premature wear on them. Have you also checked you now have plenty of clearence between the crossmember under the gearbox.


Ok, today I just replaced 3 of my engine mounts with PU. Didn't change the 4th (mount near the transmission) because its still in good condition.

When I start the car I notice it produces louder noise and vibrates a little than usual, but I think it ain't too bad. But... when I put it on D and also apply the brakes.. OMG.. I was quite shocked. My car vibrates heavily, its like riding on a tractor or something /JawDroppi

Then I drive it around, the vibrates is gone when I apply the gas slightly, or when my car moving above 20kph. I had no issues driving above 20kph. I like the way the car responds with my foot. Instant action! the gear changes also smoother than before (maybe because of broken mounts).

Previously my car has little vibration when traveling around 40-50kph, but gone above/below that speed. I thought it was my drive shaft needs to be replaced, since I changed all my mounts with original mitsi parts around 3-4 years ago but I still experience slight vibrate around that speed, although I can barely hear engine noise or vibration when idle (when the mounts is new). But now, with PU mounts, the little vibration at 40-50kph totally gone!

Now the question is, is there a way to reduce engine vibration when idling in D position? its very annoying.. I had to push the accelerator slightly and brake at the same time to eliminate vibration. Maybe I should increase the engine's idle rpm? What's the correct method on adjusting rpm at idle? what's the ideal rpm?

I think currently mine sets at 500rpm when idle... maybe that's causing exessive vibration... I'd like to set it around 800-900 perhaps?

[phosty]

The Idle should be a fairly rock steady 650rpm with the A/C off. If it's lower then it may be an issue with your Idle Speed Control Valve (ISCV) unless you have reflashed the ecu to have a lower setpoint?

I would also add that it is difficult to see if a mount is faulty just by looking at it - my gearbox one looked fine when stationary but once I had it out it was obvious the rubber was completely detached from the mount.

[tesna]

ok, today I finally managed to get the 4th mount (transmission mount) replaced with poly mount.

The original rubber mount still in good condition though, no cracks, or oil leaks etc. But I changed it to poly anyway since it's a bit pita to remove this mount. I did not notice any increase in vibration and noise though. However, the transmission feels funny when cruising at low speed (maybe because ECU reset?).

@phosty, mine seems rock steady @ 500rpm regardless a/c on or off. the rpm needle just sits halfway between 0 and 1. I never adjust/reflashed my ecu, so I guess I have a problem with ISCV.

[phosty]

That's odd - mine idles at 650 and then jumps to 850rpm when the A/C compressor kicks-in. I believe they are exactly the same as the workshop manual describes.

[Davezj]

the idle should not change when the A/C kicks in and out, the idle control valve should keep the idle constant no matter what the load is on the engine.

[Beastlee]

Dave, every car I've had has adjusted the idle when the A/C is switched on. This compensates for the additional load imposed whilst running the ancilliary kit. It doesn't jump when the compressor kicks in though, rather it raises the idle level whilst the AC is switched on.

My ICV is screwed but I haven't been bothered to fix it yet, however it still makes a change to the idle when the A/C is on. I must get round to doing mine so I can stop the poor idling when hot.

[phosty]

I should have been more specific - when the AC load is high the idle is adjusted:

uploaded/4134/1258464686.jpg

Anyway, aren't we getting a bit off topic here?

[Davezj]

which manual are you get you info from?

mine does not change!

you can hear the increased load on the engine and the compressor cutting in and out but it dose not change the idle speed even when the A/C is set to 17 DegC.

maybe it should, but everything works fine for me.

[Louis]

Getting back to poly engine mounts, I feel the A/C pump now when it comes on (with all the mounts fitted), but it is not intrusive, I get no more noise or vibration etc

[Davezj]

big sorry so far i not got round to fitting my engine mounts yet, but it will be very soon and a group buy will follow.

but i don't imagine people will want to do this before christmas so i will let you all know.

[John]

Anyone know if the VR4 and V6 mounts are the same?
Thanks.

[peter thomson]

Some of the part numbers are different but that doesn't mean the inserts won't fit.

[Nick Mann]

The Engine mount casting is identical, but the harmonic damper is slightly different. Not sure on the other three.

[c0xxy]

did anything come of this group buy?
ash

[peter thomson]

Nothing further about it. In my opinion they are cheap enough without a GB

[c0xxy]

lol, found the set of four in the other thread. looks a bargain

[peter thomson]

lol, found the set of four in the other thread. looks a bargain

Yes they are

[c0xxy]

no i didnt, that was bottom arms... think i need them too. *idiot*
the last link for the poly mounts isnt listed anymore.
is this what is meant by inserts or am i on the wrong track?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-99-ECLIPSE-POLYTHANE-ENGINE-MOTOR-MOUNT-INSERTS-96_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a55e80c1cQQitemZ250 549373980QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAcces sories

[Davezj]

yes that is what is ment by inserts.

but don't buy that kit.

[Davezj]

update to this thread.

Here is the link to the VR4 engine mount kit. ignore the picture it is just for show.

1 off kit $93 plus delivery (about $40 per kit)
if we order 10+ sets then the kit is $88 plus delivery (about $18 per kit)

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Prothane_PackageDeal001

this kit contains the following,

Right Upper=13-503 (eclipse V6 00-05)
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=13503-Right

Left Upper=13-509 (eclipse V6 00-05)
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=13509

Front roll stopper=13-505 (eclipse 90-94)
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=13505

rear roll stopper=13-508 (eclipse V6 00-05)
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=13508

the VR4 kit works out at $133.19 delivered. for a 1 off kit. but you will have to pay duty 10% and VAT 17.5%. but you might be lucky and not get charged Duty and VAT.

for 10+ kits it would be $106 each delivered. but you will definitely get charged Duty and Vat and local devivery in UK.

it is up to you what you want to do.
you can even buy the V6 eclipse kit, and then through away the front roll stopper and buy the extra front roll stopper above as a one off. that might work out cheaper, but it might not.

[kinkyafro]

Believe we want the following parts from http://www.energysuspensionparts.com

13-503
13-505
13-508
13-509
costing $129.48 (with potential for another $25 of import duty/VAT).

Can someone confirm I've got it right as this thread is confusing.

[Davezj]

yes that is correct. they must have changed there price since i was emailed the price.

i have filled out the checkout so you can see it all together.

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/cart.asp?rp=proddetail%2Easp%3Fprod%3D13508

$130 +10% Duty = $143

$143 +17.5% VAT = $168

[Nick Mann]

Dave - if you are proposing to organise a group buy, I will order three kits.

[phosty]

Davej, put me down for one of the VR4 specific kits please - my other cars mounts are buggered too.

[kinkyafro]

Ahh looks like Dave was posting at the same time as me - without wanting to sound like a whinger how come the kit is a shade more expensive then ordering seperately?

[kinkyafro]

and 1 more for the group buy :)

[Davezj]

i was not going to arrange a group buy, i was just updating the thread.
But anyone can do a group buy for these mounts if they like.

the reason for not arranging the group buy is, it is possibly cheaper to buy individual kit and potentialy avoid the Import DUTY and VAT. I was not charged duty and vat when i got my bits.

that is why i say it is up to you.

plus you avoid the extra uk postage charge for resending the mounts out once they reach the group buy organiser in the UK. As they will be sent to you direct.

[phosty]

Last time I bought the mounts I was charged:

Prothane Kit 13-1903 : $82.99 + $45 shipping = $127.99 - From eBay seller ilikeike1
Declared value on package $30 + $40 shipping so no VAT / Duty.
Galant V6 Roll Stop: $30 + $47.95 shipping - from mitsuparts1 (so no VAT / Duty)
Total: $206 or £147 after conversion.

There are some prothane kits available for $72 currently from other sellers and the Galant roll stop is $28.50 from the same seller. But even if you get one of the sellers to tell fibs about the mount kit value it still costs more than the price direct from Energy Suspension as I had to pay the shipping twice.

Dave, just to be doubly sure - the Energy suspension kit front roll mount insert fits the standard VR4 roll stop mount doesn't it? I wouldn't need to buy a US Galant roll stop wouild I?

[Davezj]

the one i have specified fits the existing front roll stopper mount on the VR4.

[kinkyafro]

Oh well bit the bullet and ordered a set the other day - exchanged a few emails with the sales guy there and suggested he post on the for sale forum here...

Anyway he asked if the same set of inserts would suit non-vr4 models - any V6 galant owners tried these?

[swinks]

IIRC, Galant V6 are the same.

[timmae2009]

update to this thread.

Here is the link to the VR4 engine mount kit. ignore the picture it is just for show.

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Prothane_PackageDeal001

Just ordered my kit /megawoot




$140 to Perth Western Australia hope fully it'll fit in no probs

Good work finding this kit :guitarist

[timmae2009]

My bad $140 USD =[

[Davezj]

the one i have specified fits the existing front roll stopper mount on the VR4.

forgot to say you need to keep the metal sleeve from the original front roll stopper as this is slightly longer than the one in the kit. either that or you will have to fit a couple of washers to the new one.

i cleaned the old sleeve up with a serrated kitchen knife, worked a treat, just leave a little bit of the old black rubber on the sleeve to make it a really tight fit in the new insert.

[c0xxy]

when you say its slightly longer than the one in the kit, is that the same for when you buy seperately? i'v ordered the four from energy suspension, just waiting delivery :-D

[Davezj]

the metal sleeve supplied with the polly insert in the box weather supplied with a kit or separately is slightly shorter than the original one that is on the car originally.

but the sleeve in the original mount is going to have to be cut out of that mount anyway, so you might as well just clean the original sleeve up and use that. rather than fitting a few of washers.

to clean the sleeve up just slice down the length of the sleeve with a serrated kitchen knife, rotate sleeve slice, rotate and slice, etc , etc, but as i say don't clean it up too well and check for fit into the polly insert as you go.

[c0xxy]

okies, cheers.
i hate waitin for deliveries! i paid the extra for 5 day postage, you dont happen to know if they e-mail when its been dispatched do you? i've had one sayin it'l be ready soon.
cheers
ash

[Davezj]

Sorry i can't remember, like everything i seem to do, spend the money on getting the parts then something else more important comes along and the parts sit there for a couple of years before i get round to fitting them.

[swinks]

the metal sleeve supplied with the polly insert in the box weather supplied with a kit or separately is slightly shorter than the original one that is on the car originally.


Ordered mine /Banana , front and rear inserts. Thanks for info Dave, you have saved me a nasty surprise. Have some rep.

[timmae2009]

What can anyone say about the kit they have installed. I put mine in over the weekend, i must say i think its the worst mod ive ever done!!! Apart from feeling the engine under my foot alot more my whole car vibrates and rattles around between 1400-2200 rpm in most gears the whole car makes noises it never used to and its just not comfortable to drive anymore. The engine does feel a tad bit more responsive but i wanna know if anyone else has had a good or bad experience after installing the poly kit? I dont know what else to do to try and make the vibrations become lesser without having to replace them back to rubber mounts. and yes ive made sure all bracket mounting bolts are tight before anyone asks me to check em lol its definately on my mind to go back to rubber though

[peter thomson]

I only have a slight vibration at tickover in drive. Noithing in neutral and nothing to mention when driving.
I would make sure that the gearbox is not resting on the crossmember first if it has been bent in the past

[timmae2009]

check............not the problem unfortunately

[phosty]

In my case the original rubber mounts were shot so the engine used to twist and swirm whenever I brought the clutch up causing metal-on-metal knocking. The poly mounts cured the engine movement so it was an improvement for me. So I can't compare to brand new rubber mounts.

As mentioned previously I felt there was an increased high pitched sound after installing the poly mounts on idle but that seems to have subsided (or I've just become used to it - difficult to say).

Were your original mounts OK - why did you change them? In my case it was a heck of a lot cheaper than the OEM mounts.

[timmae2009]

All of the above, cheaper and my drivers side mount was gone and was cheaper to change them all than 1 at a time when they each start to fail. its gettin worse it goes when the clutch is in but when its out and its below 2400rpm it shakes the s**t outta the car and its very frustrating and annoying. But seems like im the only person thats had this problem, half my luck. Im not sure wats goin on i hardly think anythign is resting on the cross member cause its not the sorta noise its just bad vibrations at low rpm (at any speed)

[swinks]

Left and right side mounts provide hell a lot of vibrations to chasis. IMO, not necessary mod, and rubber inserts are better. Hence I've done only front and rear poly inserts. Feels better, stiffer and not much vibration.

[c0xxy]

iv only managed to change the 2 big side mounts so far and i agree with you on the vibrations when standing still, but while moving i dont think its that much of a problem. but the gear box whining or whatever it is annoying as hell!

[timmae2009]

Hmmmm sounds like im alone on this one then.....bummer, thinkign bout sellin it if it will sell its that bad tbh

[peter thomson]

Any chance this is a clutch related issue and the mounts are making it more pronounced

[timmae2009]

Well i do have clutch issues, it dont fully engage when you put your foot on the clutch the revs hold for a bit then they slowly start falling back to idle, but i thought that problem might have been from the busted engine mount so i changed the mounts and the clutch problem is still there but the shocking vibration has come from the mounts not the clutch

[timmae2009]

but its only during a certain rev range if it was the clutch id expect it to be happening all the time....perhaps? thinking of changing the front and rear mounts back to rubber see if that helps

[wintertidenz]

Sounds like the clutch is stuffed - could be that the vibration is more pronounced at lower revs because it's turning slower.

I've done poly mounts on all but the front stopper, I can feel slight vibrations at idle but that's it.

[timmae2009]

ok cool cheers guys, ill change the roller mounts back to rubber if i can get hold of some replacements and if that dont fix anything guess ill be puttin ANOTHER clutch in =[

[taupodrifta]

I would agrre I know my mounts are stuffed and organising some polys now but I have the same vibration and I know for a fact my clutch is stuffed. I pray daily its gonna hold as its slipping pretty bad so if I were you I would look into replacing your clutch

[timmae2009]

But its a HDB and never slips even if i dump the clutch in highish revs it just grabs and goes, it only plays up coming through the gears from 5th to 4th etc, i literally have to give a lil rev to free up the gears before it frees up the gear stick to go back a gear otherwise as i explained it holds the revs for a while then it slowly slowly starts dropping back to idle, unless i rev it, but for the life of me i cant see how that would contribute to the car vibrating like this. Ive also noticed at 90 or 100km i get this annoying vibration every 200ms or so, its like the wheels are slightly bent or have a wobble, but it wasnt there before the polys went in, im not saying thats the problem but its like something is not balanced correctly and its only prelevant at higher speeds. Hmmmmmm i dont know its all too hard

[timmae2009]

Would it be safe to remove the cross member and go for a quick drive and see if i notice any improvement?

[peter thomson]

Would it be safe to remove the cross member and go for a quick drive and see if i notice any improvement?

I wouldn't advise doing that.

[Kieran]

I wouldn't advise doing that.

Me neither.

[timmae2009]

Guess ill try changing the rear roller mount back to rubber first see if it makes it better. I believe the roller mounts are what would make the vibration worse as opposed to the engine mounts

[apeman69]

Having read this thread from start to finish for the second time in recent weeks, I've just ordered Dave's deal kit http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Prothane_PackageDeal001# for £88.74 delivered. :mexicanwav
Hopefully no customs charges and, as I'm not too bothered about having red inserts, opted for the black which isn't special order and so will be with me two weeks earlier.:chugchug:
I want this kit to replace all 4 mounts in the existing casings...... I HOPE! (starts to read thread again for the 3rd time) :joker:

[timmae2009]

I bought the same kit in black...................so dont read this thread again be reassured itll fit fine..................oh guys i think the bad vibrations im experiencing may possible be from my tyres and never noticed it until the engine was mounted more solidly, each tyre has a shocking bulge on the inside walls and looks like the rubber is warped or somethign i dont know hoping the new rims and tyres will fix it otherwise guess the clutch will be replaced.......so lost to whats causing it cause it does the vibration thing even in neutral at a stand still:givemebee

[c0xxy]

mine vibrates at standstill with just the two side mounts... just dont stay still :-D

[Davezj]

with the polly mounts the only noticable vibration is a small amout at idle when in gear in a auto and foot on the brake. but nock it in to neutral and vibration is gone. no other vibration at all.

if you rally don't like this vibration at idle then increase you idle speed to 750-800rpm and vibration is gone.

[timmae2009]

Its nothign at idle its only between around 1200-2400ish rom not at idle, at idle its bearable once the revs increase the steering wheel moves like f*** and soem of the interior parts make rattle noises!!!!!

[Nick Mann]

The V6 engine is a very smooth unit. Even with solid aluminium mounts, I find it amazing that a car running correctly would vibrate that much at 2000 rpm.

I haven't yet experienced poly mounts, so can't make an informed observation, but it does sound like you have something else going on.

[timmae2009]

The V6 engine is a very smooth unit. Even with solid aluminium mounts, I find it amazing that a car running correctly would vibrate that much at 2000 rpm.

I haven't yet experienced poly mounts, so can't make an informed observation, but it does sound like you have something else going on.


Yup it sure does i just dont know what and neither does anyone else, even no one local?!?! Just my luck :sigh:

[Davezj]

wild stab in the dark you have 2 cylinders not fireing correctly, some kind of break down.

at idle you will not notice much of a problem, the fault only reviels it's self as the revs build and more load is placed on the coil packs and one of them start to break down which will cause a vibration. but after that some kind of magic happens at higher revs the fault goes away.

[timmae2009]

She revs beautifully through the rev range in every gear, which dont solve the vibration i get when im stationary in no gear at 2000rpm, i showed another vr4 owner the problem on the weekend had him stumped too, i think its the front n rear roller mounts i hope to change them bak to rubber see if it fixes it perhaps. When i fitted the passenger side engine mount we disconnected the sway bar and the front mount then lowered the engine/gearbox to try and get it low enough to remove the mount itself the bracket the rubber mount sits in, had top go pretty low to get it over those long studs, it was lowered all the way before we decided to remove the rear roller mount. Im wondering if lowering the engine like we did with the rear mount still connected has twisted the bracket housing or something similar and its cause of that? When we put the rear mount back on the bolt went through no problem though......*scratches head*

[timmae2009]

Ok so i was right about damaging the rear mount whilst lowering the engine to get the passenger side mount off......it appears to have stretched the hole in the middle where the bolt goes through, you can see this because the other holes that are staggered around the centre hole are warped and an unusual oval shape towards the bottom...i took a pic with my phone as there was no room down there too get a camera, the pic is not the best but you get the general idea, i managed to get a picker in there to gauge the gap in the distorted hole and shes gone definately about 2-3 maybe 4 mm biggger on one side than it should be.......so to everyone installing poly mounts on your car i would advize against lowering the engine or gear box with these still connected if possible if you must dont lower it more than you have to..... ill get the pic up asap but not right now


http://i525.photobucket.com/albums/cc336/timmae2006/Photo0644.jpg

[Davezj]

persoanlly i would not think that was an issue, only the weight of the engine pressing on the mount.

[c0xxy]

put steel tubes or something similar in. think i read that earlier in the thread!

[Beastlee]

Must do this as less than a year after replacing front and rear roll mounts my engine is knocking on the cross-member when I lift off!

[timmae2009]

It came with steel tubes and yes the tubes are in

[timmae2009]

persoanlly i would not think that was an issue, only the weight of the engine pressing on the mount.

theres hardly any weight from the engine on the rear roller it works most when accelerating and the engine is rocking back on it which seems to take some of the weight off it and cause the metal tube running through it isnt a tight seal like the rest its vibrating like hell

[phosty]

If I remember correctly, the prothane metal tube inserts are imperial sizes but the mitsi bolts are metric so there may be a bit of clearance around them. I was considering replacing the front roll stop bolt with a tighter fitting unit if my gear change issues continued to be an issue - fortunately it wasn't necessary.

Might be worth checking in your case. The tubes themselves were tight in the poly mounts though.

[Davezj]

If I remember correctly, the prothane metal tube inserts are imperial sizes but the mitsi bolts are metric so there may be a bit of clearance around them. I was considering replacing the front roll stop bolt with a tighter fitting unit if my gear change issues continued to be an issue - fortunately it wasn't necessary.

Might be worth checking in your case. The tubes themselves were tight in the poly mounts though.


I used the original tube from the old front roll stopper (just cleaned it up) as it was only the length of the tube that differed, if i remember rightly, neither the old or the new tube fit tightly over the bolt that goes throught it.

[c0xxy]

lol, i meant through the 6 outer holes, will stop them being softer points in the bush.

[Davezj]

I got that, not sure about others though.

[Davezj]

It came with steel tubes and yes the tubes are in


the statement about extra tube, was to fit 6 extra tubes one for every hole in the picture you posted up earlier then they will not deorm, that will firm the mount up.

[timmae2009]

Oh yeah kk i understand but it too much effort ill get a replacement as no one else is having the problem ive got and its just simpler.........why does the rear mount have holes in it but the front one doesnt???

[Davezj]

the holes just make it a bit more compliant. i think if it was the same as the front (solid) it would be too stiff and transfer too much vibration to the chassis.

i still don't think it is the issue, but it is a quick cheap fix if it works.

[Nick Mann]

I put a set of these in a car today. I checked the rear roll stop at all stages - it was not distorted like the photo in post 263.

I have to say I am impressed so far. The engine sat in a much better position after the change and was nice and solid on it's new mounts. The vibration at idle (approx 800 rpm) was negligible and only noticeable when D or R was selected and the idle dropped to about 600 rpm.

It's a job that is going on my "to do" list.

[apeman69]

The vibration in gear at idle is there but absolutely no concern at all. However my car is idling at 825rpm in neutral and 600ish in gear so it could be more noticable at standard idling rpm, I can't say for sure. I plan to increase the idling speed a bit more (not because of engine mount replacement) and I'll see if there's any effect on the vibration. The gear changes are more crisp and smoother now and the engine doesn't move. General handling seems to have improved. I'm going to do some EvoScan logs today to check if my spurious knock is still there. Engine is now a lot further away from crossmember so fingers crossed. Thanks again, Nick, for a job well done and thanks to Peter Thomson, martin_y and davezj for your roles in helping me to get this job done.

[apeman69]

Three weeks after having these done and it's the best value for money investment I've made in the Legnum. I would go so far as to say get this done before any other mods as you probably don't know what condition they're in and after 60-70,000 miles they probably are in need of replacing.
As stated previously, the difference to gear changes is very, very noticable. I have previously had the gear oil changed, car fully Amsoiled, torque converter changed, rear diff changed blah blah blah... I wish I'd had the engine mounts done much sooner because to me, and with hindsight, it's got to be the first part of the jigsaw.
I'm very impressed with this mod and, compared to some of the other things I've had done, it's a cheap way forward. I'm not saying that, for example, I didn't need to change the torque converter or have everything Amsoiled but if I'd had the engine mounts done in the early days then the car would have been a different beast for the majority of my ownership.

[kinkyafro]

I've finally got mine in - well NJ has. I've got to echo Apemans comments things feel much better. I've also noticed I have a lot less engine clatter which I'd always assumed was lash adjusters.

I don't know how these compare to a brand new set of oem engine mounts as my old mounts were dicey when I got the car and rapidly declined after I started remapping it.

Finally fitting these is not a simple job - I personally think the difficulty has been underplayed in this thread.

[peter thomson]

Why do you think the work has been underplayed?

[apeman69]

I wouldn't say it is a difficult job to do in terms of the requirement for technical expertise. It was a time consuming, frustrating, trial and error type of job in that the 'difficulty' manifested itself in the amount of luck you have (or don't in the case of my car) in lining the mounts up once one of the old mounts is out and the engine is being supported. The increased bulk of the poly mounts when in the original castings didn't help either in terms of them being manouverable once they were in the right vacinity for fitting.
It took a very long time to get the driver's side engine mount in compared to the other three and the headlight had to come out so we could see whereabouts the retaining bolt was trying to go and why it bl@@dy well wasn't going where it was supposed to go. Manouvering the mount in three dimensions to get it lined up, when it was stuffed in tighter than a duck's @rse was not the easiest thing to do that I have witnessed!
Nick Mann has the patience of a saint. I was basically an onlooker though I was trying to help and if I was attempting to do this myself then, afterwards, I would have needed a few replacement body panels from kicking the crap out of them in frustration.
Worth the effort though and I sweated a few beads that day..... well, it was rather sunny!

[Nick Mann]

What Alan said!

The only difficulty I had was the drivers side main mount. Next time I do the job I'll do that first, I think. The gearbox mount has more opportunity for movement after the drivers side is stiff, whereas the drivers side has very limited opportunity for movement once the gearbox side is stiff. If you are scared of an engine being unsupported, don't try this at home, but if you aren't, then crack on!

[funkman57]

What Alan said!

The only difficulty I had was the drivers side main mount. Next time I do the job I'll do that first, I think. The gearbox mount has more opportunity for movement after the drivers side is stiff, whereas the drivers side has very limited opportunity for movement once the gearbox side is stiff. If you are scared of an engine being unsupported, don't try this at home, but if you aren't, then crack on!

started mine on the drivers side by luck and it was a tight fit but no problems at all really!

[jinglis]

could someone have a meaure up of the engine mounts and gearbox mounts so i can work out if i can use them on the FTO. Im pretty sure that the engine mounts will fit just not sure about the gearbox mounts. thanks

[taylor]

Does anyone know what the weight of these mounts are for shipping purposes. have someone coming back from the states and would like to know if they can bring them back without tipping their baggage allowance.

Maybe someone has some they are yet to put in??

[Nick Mann]

From memory, it works out at just over 3kgs.

[MarkSanne]

Yesterday + today I swapped the original rubber for the urethane mounts on L & R mounts. Hardest parts were getting the old rubber + metal rings/holding out of the aluminium mounts. Best option I found out is simply use a manual hacksaw and rotate the sawblade so one can use it like a fretsaw. Give it 10-15 minutes and the old rubber & metal stuff is out. I had a bit of bad luck as the driver side mount has the extra bar connected to the engine and the bolt of that at the engine mount broke... Took me quite some time to drill it out and get the last remaining bits of bolt out. Worked eventually and now it's good as new.

A tip for the indeed more difficult re-fitment of the driver side mount: use a little bit of lubricant (soap or whatever) so you can manouver the mount with the bulky urethane parts a bit more easily. I used a crowbar (a bit of cardboard underneath it to protect the paintwork) and a plastic hammer to get it positioned right. Got it exactly right in under 2 minutes that way.

A few pics might help clarify things a bit (I haven't got a picture of using the crowbar though):

3920539207392083920939206

I swapped the bottom engine mount a few months back for a new geniune Mitsubishi one, so all left now is the dreaded, yet most important rear engine mount... As the weather was to good to lock myself up in the garage I decided to give the car a thorough clean inside and out.

[MarkSanne]

By the way: if you leave the boxes out, the total of 4 urethane mounts will weigh just under 2KG. I measured the rear mount and bottom mount (690gram together). The other two are a bit larger but they certainly won't be more than 500 grams each, so that's around 1.7KG all together.

[Beastlee]

I've now had a spare set of mounts ready to do this for over a year, I think. One of these days I'll remember to order the poly inserts and front mount from an Eclipse!

[CANDEE]

I've now had a spare set of mounts ready to do this for over a year, I think. One of these days I'll remember to order the poly inserts and front mount from an Eclipse!
There is a kit from Energy suspension that has the std vr4 roll-stopper in it. :)

[Beastlee]

There is a kit from Energy suspension that has the std vr4 roll-stopper in it. :)

Forgive me if it's already posted somewhere but where can I find that kit?

[Nick Mann]

It is linked from this thread, a few pages back.

[CANDEE]

Forgive me if it's already posted somewhere but where can I find that kit?

I believe its this one:

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?35704-Poly-engine-mounts&p=556790&viewfull=1#post556790

Wynn wasnt @ work today so I cant confirm the one he ordered from them, but Nick has posted a review on this product so it should be right. :)

[swinks]

Also I got mine kit off them. Quite happy right now.

[MarkSanne]

^^what he said^^

[Beastlee]

Placing an order next week, hopefully it will finally fix my harsh shift.

[apeman69]

Buy buy buy while the US$ is weak :)

[zentac]

I bought a set of these thinking they may be ok for the FTO, however they all have centre hole where as the FTO ones I use have off centre to lower the engine slightly so if anyone wants a set £85 delivered (Red ones)

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Prothane_PackageDeal001

[Beastlee]

I'll take them if it's the VR4 set.

[MarkSanne]

I changed the rear engine mount today. What a total pita. But now that I've done it, I'll have a go at the one on my VR2 too soon enough.

Also did a fairy complete write-up of the whole proces of changing the original rubber to urethane in this article, which might help any of you having a go at it:
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?53880-Swapping-the-original-rubber-in-the-engine-gearbox-mount-for-urethane&p=599923

[ersanalamin]

I removed the old bushes in the 3 mounts Wodjno :iloveyou: sent me. Here are some pics and if anybody thinks an article about removal I'll get that done later.
Typical example of old mount.
uploaded/2374/1232491122.jpg

Bush removed
uploaded/2374/1232491235.jpg

New poly bush fitted
uploaded/2374/1232491328.jpg

2 done
uploaded/2374/1232491423.jpg

All 3 done
uploaded/2374/1232491488.jpg

Total time to do these 3 was about an hour and a half. I think they look great and fitting was a breeze compared to the bushes I've changed in my old Landrover and Range Rover.

Excuse me Peter, could you please tell me where i can get those poly engine mounting from? online buying? any link?

[Nick Mann]

Check out post 215 on page 11.

[Davezj]

thread reserrection

i am going to buy another set of the engine mount inserts as i have changed me car now.
so here is a little recap the parts you need
13-503
13-505
13-508
13-509
webite is here
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/cart.asp?rp=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.energysuspensionparts .com%2Fproddetail.asp%3Fprod%3D13508
$131 plus 10% import duty and 20% VAT
$173 = £108 at present.
but from the look of the exchange rate the pound seems to be getting stronger against the USD so it might be worth holding off until mid november (possibly).

[Beastlee]

I have a full set that I bought but never fitted. Also have all 4 engine mounts available to enable pre-fitting and simple exchange of the mounts. PM me if you're interested.

[Davezj]

I have a full set that I bought but never fitted. Also have all 4 engine mounts available to enable pre-fitting and simple exchange of the mounts. PM me if you're interested.

i have actually got 2 sets to buy and i think we have all the old engine mounts we need, if it was only 1 set for me then i would would probably take you up on your offer. i am sure someone else will want to take them off your hands.
but thanks for the offer.

[Beastlee]

No problem, someone else has come forward :)

[phosty]

Dave, do you think they would combine the postage? If so I'd have a set too! No rush.

[Davezj]

yes the postage will be reduced. but with 3 sets we will definitely get chaged the duty and vat, but separatly you might get out of paying that and it would be worth it to avoide the extra expense.

i am quite prepared to add an extra set of mounts for you phil, but i am not doing a group buy as i am not registered for that.

i will let you know when i am going to place the order. getting 3 sets does not reduce the price by much £94 but if you got away with out incuring duty and vat then you could ge them for £82 potentially

[phosty]

Ah yes - I forgot the import / duty thing. It was 2 years ago when I bought my last set. Don't worry about it, I'll get them independantly in that case.

[Fully]

What are these like?
I hear there is a bit of play (on the gear stick) in the manuals, is this true?

I am thinking about making my own out of nylon (natural) or aluminium.
Pro's and Con's for the above options?

[Davezj]

i would have thought engine vibration would become a lot worse with nylon or aluminum. At least the urathane one have some give, nylon or aluminum would not give at all, i would say.
personally i would pay the £100 ish for the uratane ones. but my car is an auto.

[phosty]

My manual had quite a bit of play at the stick - though it was nothing to do with the poly engine mounts I had fitted. I fitted a short shift kit with solid bushings under the gearstick cage. But I was still getting play front to back. I traced it down to the rubber bushings in the eyes at the gearbox end of the balun cables - the metal sleeve that sits over the selector lever pin has a small gap around it with a couple of rubber legs to centralise it so there is about 1-2mm play which gets magnified at the stick end. Ideally this could be replaced with a solid urethane bushing, however I fixed mine by inserting a thin metal cylinder cut to the correct depth (cross section from a pen actually) into the gap between the rubbr bushing and the metal sleeve. Gear stick action is solid as a rock now!

If you want I can look to get a photo?

[Nick Mann]

Phil, check out this link:
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?59194

[phosty]

Phil, check out this link:
http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?59194

Doh! Thanks Nick. Wish I'd noticed that thread a few months ago! However, the solution there seems to be hard metal bearings. I'm not sure if that would be a little too firm a connection - would a high density urethane not have been better (and easier to fit)? I checked on Energy suspension and the only gear shifter related bushings they do are the Manual transmission shifter bushing set:

4 - 1101 upper position shifter bushing
4 - 1102 lower position shifter bushing

I already had these in the full HyperFlex Master Kit Mitsubishi Eclipse 95-99 (# 5.18107) but had decided on the solid bushings that came with the short-shift kit.

[Gowf]

What are these like?
I hear there is a bit of play (on the gear stick) in the manuals, is this true?

I am thinking about making my own out of nylon (natural) or aluminium.
Pro's and Con's for the above options?

I had replaced mine with homemade nylon ones (cost me £30 for the lot). Made the mounts then also made the steel inserts, and pressed everything in. The only oddity is the rear mount is ecentric, but its not that bad to do.

Experience wise, the response was so much better and the only downside was that you could now hear a bit of gear whine. It did make everything louder, and yes you could feel it, BUT it is NOWHERE NEAR as severe as a solid mounts. I had them in the 205 rally car, and it was savage. The nylon was fine for the road.

[Louis]

I was going to say, when you buying full eclipse poly suspension bushings kit you get the manual cable bushes also, so any auto owners who did the suspension will have these left over,

[elnevio]

Got a set of these winging their way to me! :rabbit:


I have also added the link to the package on the first post, for ease of finding. And look! It's here (http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Prothane_PackageDeal001) too! :D

[Davezj]

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Prothane_PackageDeal001
the package deal is the correct one for the 8G VR4's but the picture showen on the website for the kit is wrong the smallest mount in the picture should not be a 2 parts add on type mount, that should show a 1 piece perfarated insert for the rear roll stopper.
just thought i would clarify this for anyone considering buying the kit.
the part number list on the website are the correct parts you need, and you will get the correct parts when they are sent out.

Edit:-
I have fixed the link, I copied it from another thread and when I inserted it it got wrapped in some other insertion character so it did not work.

[foxdie]

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...PackageDeal001
the package deal is the correct one for the 8G VR4's but the picture showen on the website for the kit is wrong

Just a small note, those trying to click the above link may find their browser hangs in a "waiting for website to load" state, the correct link is: http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Prothane_PackageDeal001

[disco-ian]

Hmmm, to order a set or not. My front mount has gone and it hardly seems worth ordering just a front from them due shipping charges.

I don't have direct access to a press is it very difficult to get the old ones out with a chizzle, hammer and effort?

[Nick Mann]

Easy enough to do if you have a vice, a hack saw, a hammer and a chisel. IMO there is absolutely no point doing one. If one of your mounts is dead then I'd be amazed if the others were all good. If there is sag in the other three mounts and you put one good one in, then it and the remaining sagging mounts will be under more pressure and will potentially fail faster.

[peter thomson]

If you are going to do it do them all. Great upgrade as well.

[disco-ian]

I really would like to upgrade but would rathe do it when I actually have the money rather than adding another £100 to debt.

A member has just replied to my wanted add so see how much he wants for one. But I'll still upgrade if costs work out against a second hand one.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[swinks]

Little update.

Noticed that my rear engine mount bush got worn. Other 3 perfect.
My question, which is the right catalogue number for rear mount? I got 2 different numbers refered to rear polybush:
13-508 (here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290794178543?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649), that one I had fitted, but seems got misshaped with time.
13-506 (here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360331920228?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649), that one looks more solid.

Anyway, previously in this thread both bushes were referred as right one hence got confused.










;

[Davezj]

I have alway used the Holey one from the first link and never had any issues with them. I fitted the polly mount to both of my VR4's and the last lot have been in for a good couple of years now so I can't complain at that.
I don't know if the second link mount would fit to the rear roll stopper, but if it does fit I don't see why you can't use it, it will make the forward and back motion stiffer and this will be noticed on gear changes and hard acceleration.
it might induce more vibration in the car at idle though.

[crazydriver81]

Tomasz, the one from the first link is the correct one - the other will not fit.

I'd suggest to change the front roll stopper as well. Otherwise the front one will be worn within days, as it will take all the roll energy.

front roll stopper insert: 13-505 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Prothane-13-505-Engine-Mount-Insert-Kit-Front-Eagle-Talon-90-94-/130642452018?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e6ae59e32)
rear roll stopper insert: 13-508 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290794178543?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)

[swinks]

Stefan, I have polybush in front mount. Good as new. Side poly mounts good as well.
Dave, potential vibrations ain't my worry, already you can break you neck in my vr4 driving thru speed bumps :)
That one knackered was identical with quoted in 1st link. Apparently seems that additional holes makes it weaker. Centre hole become misshaped and "oversized" horizontally by 8mm and vertically by 4mm. Obviously increased torque and stiffer suspension had its own contribution.
Hence my question regarding second option, as looking more solid build.

[peter thomson]

I can't remember if I posted this before but I filled the holes with aluminium bar of the correct diameter to give the effect of a soild bush

[swinks]

I can't remember if I posted this before but I filled the holes with aluminium bar of the correct diameter to give the effect of a soild bush
I will copy your solution sir. :)

[Davezj]

That is a good idea i never thought of that.

i think you would have to remove the rear roll stopper to enable you to fit the metal bars/tubes to it though. it is a shame they can't be slid into the mount after it is fitted, as a retro fit if you want it stiffer..

pete can you remeber what size the bar was?

[peter thomson]

I believe it was 12mm diameter

[swinks]

i think you would have to remove the rear roll stopper to enable you to fit the metal bars/tubes to it though. it is a shame they can't be slid into the mount after it is fitted, as a retro fit if you want it stiffer..

Everything is removed now Dave. Little overhaul commenced at PSB workshop.
Emptied engine bay, few wires and vacuum hoses laying around and 2 engines sits next each other.

[Davezj]

Sound like you are having fun tomasz, keep us all posted of your progress.

[millzy_88]

So my current mounts have worn out, 5 years wasn't a bad stint. So I'm wondering, last time I bought these the front mount didn't fit, do we now have a front roll stop option that's direct fit?

[CANDEE]

Matt,

Its front roll stopper insert: 13-505, which the kit now includes. :)

[millzy_88]

Awesome, that makes life easier. Will do them all now.

[Kryton]

Sorry for not reading this all but signal pants & can't keep loading each page. Engine mounts, currently fitted to an ex auto / manual conversion, will these fit a genuine manual if an auto box mount is supplied? If so, which one or am I going slightly mad(der)? Sorry again but better than creating a new thread :d

[CANDEE]

Chris, the auto and manual gearbox insert is the same size, so if you get a kit it will fit either way.

[Kryton]

Cool cheers for the confirmation

[Davezj]

But just to confirm, the auto and manual gearbox metal part of the mount and you can't use the metal part of auto mount on a manual gear box and vice versa. Poly insert as stated above is the same.

[Pantera6]

Reviving an old thread…. I am likely to be in need of replacing my engine mounts in the near future and would be grateful hearing from the members who swapped all of their original factory mounts to polyurethane when this thread first started (Peter Thomson, Nick Mann, Davezj…others?)

Specifically, I am interested to know how your (Prothane) polyurethane mounts are holding up 3-5 years after installation and if you've had any issues with sagging of the polyurethane mounts, especially the rear roll-stop? Also, if you've changed your polyurethane mounts the second time around due to issues, if you could please elaborate on the issue and what you have replaced your polyurethane mounts with (new part numbers/links etc.) that would be most appreciated! Many thanks in advance!

[MarkSanne]

I've used them for 3 years upto when the Legnum crashed. After that they lived another life with the new owner of the engine and they are still solid, no sagging. My experience is that they do offer more firmness, which slightly decreases the comfort from the original ones (some slight vibration is added at specific (low) rpms). If I were to do this again and the original mitsu left and right engine mounts were still good, I would leave them as is and only replace the front and rear roll stopper with poly urethanes. Those are the two that get the most to endure and wear out fastest.

[Davezj]

No issues for me, none at all, no sagging no extra vibration.

All good for me.

[crazydriver81]

I have them for 3 years now - all 4 mounts replaced with the Prothane ones from Eclipse V6 (front roll stopper from a 1G Eclipse).

No sagging at all, engine sits as it should, would do this again and recommend this mod.

[wintertidenz]

All good for me, have had mine in since 2009 and had no problems. I was running the stock front roll stopper until last year when I replaced it with the insert though.

[swinks]

I had mine fitted in 2008 and after removal in 2013 (scrapping vehicle) they been solid as new. Highly recommended. I had though uprated hardest compond of polyurethane inserts, so all vibrations whilst idle were felt. But also better engine/throttle response feeling.

[Wembe]

hi
does anyone have the (Prothane) polyurethane inserts for sale in the UK?

[mattnz]

hi
does anyone have the (Prothane) polyurethane inserts for sale in the UK?

I got mine off eBay.


Different engine mount related problem:

So I've got a bit of a mismatch here. Have I got the wrong kit?

http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f351/mattmnz/IMG_20150205_1922491_zpsbt5qzzyv.jpg

The cross-member mount is too small for any of those inserts.

[peter thomson]

You have bought the kit for the eclipse which has a bigger front mount. It's the same kit I used but that's what was available at the time. I just bought the eclipse mount and used it

[Davezj]

You bought the V6 eclipse kit it loos like to me any way.
You can go out a buy a V6 standard eclipse front mount.
This why I got energy suspension parts to set up the deal001 which includes the correct front mount.

[mattnz]

Damit, thanks guys!

Is there a JDM car that shares the same mount? I don't like my chances of getting an Eclipse mount in NZ!

[Davezj]

This is what you are looking for, but it will take time for delivery.

i searched ebay with 'eclipse V6 front mount' this is what came up, i belive they are the correct ones, but they are in USA.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Engine-Mount-Front-BECK-ARNLEY-104-1798-fits-00-05-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-3-0L-V6-/311184904691?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AEclipse&hash=item487410d1f3

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Engine-Mount-Front-BECK-ARNLEY-104-1798-fits-00-05-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-3-0L-V6-/261621594340?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AEclipse&hash=item3ce9dcb8e4

or you could just buy the correct polley insert, to may be cheaper in the long run.

[mattnz]

Was there also something about saving one of the sleeves from the original mounts?

[MarkSanne]

Nope

[Nick Mann]

The front roll stop. The supplied metal tube is not long enough.

[Davezj]

yeh keep the original metal centre sleeve from that mount and just get a hack saw and run the blade down the outside of the sleeve to clean a lot of the old rubber off it. but don't clean all of it off leave some on to make the sleeve a tighter fit into the new polly insert.
well that is what i have done in all the mount convertions i have done for mates.

[mattnz]

Cool thanks!

[rajvr497]

installed mines a long time now and up till the date i got zero problems.....7154871549

[Downundersir]

Here is a question for those more knowlegeable on the site. Would the eclipse v6 front mount not be the same /similar to a v6 magna or mitsubishi 380 sold in Australia (Galant elsewhere) ?

[Davezj]

why not buy the correct kit that fits all the VR4 mounts.

you can buy them individually or as the kit that i got energysuspensionparts.com to put together, the number and a link to the kit is specified in this thread.

[FLPGACITUA]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Torque-Solution-Front-Engine-Mount-Insert-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-3G-4cyl-V6-00-05-/191170085819?hash=item2c82a003bb:g:iUIAAOxyi-ZTbpEB&vxp=mtr
IF anyone has bought the kit from the Eclipse but don't like the saggy front mount (with the perforated holes) I bought a solid mount from Torque solution. Thought i'll leave this here. This thread helped me some years ago. So here you go http://www.ebay.com/itm/Torque-Solution-Front-Engine-Mount-Insert-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-3G-4cyl-V6-00-05-/191170085819?hash=item2c82a003bb:g:iUIAAOxyi-ZTbpEB&vxp=mtr
heres the Part Number TS-3G-001

[Davezj]

If you can wait two weeks for the delivery from the USA then you can buy the correct kit for the vr4 from energysuspensionparts.com

The v6 eclipse front polly insert is not the correct size to fit the vr4 front metal cage that goes round it to mount it to the end engine cross member. If you buy the eclipse v6 polly mount you will have to buy the eclipse v6 front metal cage to go with it . I know some members have done this in the past and the metal cage will bolt onto the vr4 cross member. But it is cheaper and esker to buy the correct size front polly mount in the first place.
In the kit I set up with energysuspensionparts.com some years back.
All the detail is in this thread.
There is a link to the kit but as stated in the post the picture is wrong but the kit fits just fine.


Sent from my space-aged gizmo

[Davezj]

I have never found any kind of sagging in the rear mount and I have had the polly kit installed for 6 years or more.
I think it is issue is reslated to the way the mount are bolted up. I think the front and rear mounts should be left loose until everything else is bolted in then do these up at the end.
So you know the mount is in its natural position before being clamped up tight. Other wise you are preloading mount with pressure before you even start to are grove from the engine rocking about.
This has also been documented in the thread above.


Sent from my space-aged gizmo

[FLPGACITUA]

I bought the kit when this thread was first posted some years ago. I have the bigger front mount cage.
I just left this here for the guys that have the mod.

[FLPGACITUA]

Yep, i get the way it should be mounted. And it was done the way you describe. But the front engine mount does seem to go abit out of shape. If it's my experience alone then all good.
I rather have a solid mount

[Davezj]

I see,
the correct front mount is solid though. So this would not deform at all.


Sent from my space-aged gizmo

[ersanalamin]

If you can wait two weeks for the delivery from the USA then you can buy the correct kit for the vr4 from energysuspensionparts.com

The v6 eclipse front polly insert is not the correct size to fit the vr4 front metal cage that goes round it to mount it to the end engine cross member. If you buy the eclipse v6 polly mount you will have to buy the eclipse v6 front metal cage to go with it . I know some members have done this in the past and the metal cage will bolt onto the vr4 cross member. But it is cheaper and esker to buy the correct size front polly mount in the first place.
In the kit I set up with energysuspensionparts.com some years back.
All the detail is in this thread.
There is a link to the kit but as stated in the post the picture is wrong but the kit fits just fine.


Sent from my space-aged gizmo

Hi Dave can you point me correct kit for the vr4 from energysuspensionparts.com?

Is it made for eclipse or really for 6a13tt?

[Davezj]

look at post 303 and 318 for the correct parts and the link to the package deal.

these are for a VR4 with original front roll stopper cage.

don't worry about the picture on the package deal it is wrong. the important but is you get,
13-503
13-505
13-508
13-509

[ersanalamin]

look at post 303 and 318 for the correct parts and the link to the package deal.

these are for a VR4 with original front roll stopper cage.

don't worry about the picture on the package deal it is wrong. the important but is you get,
13-503
13-505
13-508
13-509


yep i ve learnt, thanks and i put the resume in excell table

[Davezj]

the deal i put together was with energysuspensionparts.com an energy suspension dealler in USA.
not energy suspension themselves, as they don't sell to the public they only sell to dealers.

i have checked the eclipse V6 motor mount kit at energysuspensionparts.com and they dont seem to have it listed any more, but the only difference is the front roll stopper as the eclipse v6 has a larger mount than the VR4.
you information is coming prothane.com web site which is a completly different dealer.

as far as i am aware there is not kit from energy suspension themselves for the mitsubishi VR4, there are kits for the galant but that is the USA galant FWD only not the same car.

if you search on energysuspensionparts.com for prothane-packagedeal001
you will come up with the kit i put together with them $99.63 current price for all 4 engine mount that fit all the original mounts on a VR4

[ersanalamin]

the deal i put together was with energysuspensionparts.com an energy suspension dealler in USA.
not energy suspension themselves, as they don't sell to the public they only sell to dealers.

i have checked the eclipse V6 motor mount kit at energysuspensionparts.com and they dont seem to have it listed any more, but the only difference is the front roll stopper as the eclipse v6 has a larger mount than the VR4.
you information is coming prothane.com web site which is a completly different dealer.

as far as i am aware there is not kit from energy suspension themselves for the mitsubishi VR4, there are kits for the galant but that is the USA galant FWD only not the same car.

if you search on energysuspensionparts.com for prothane-packagedeal001
you will come up with the kit i put together with them $99.63 current price for all 4 engine mount that fit all the original mounts on a VR4

yes sir, thats why i put the engine mount part number on the table for reference, one can seek the engine mount everywhere as cheap as possible based on that reference.

[Xaxasv6]

Is this still the set for the 6a13tt?
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/prothane-packagedeal001

Wanna order 2 sets

Greats from Germany

[rajvr497]

Yes it is .....

[LegnumPower]

I'm missing the spacer discs that are supposed to be on both sides of the left and right engine mount: MB309927. Is this bad?

[Davezj]

if you have the poly bushes yoy dont need the big rubber washers at each side.

if you have the the standard factory rubber mounts the rubber mught bulge out of the mount when under loard and rub of the bracket holding the mount in place.
best thing to if you have failing rubber mount is to replace them with poly mounts.
use the link above in the thread for the package 001 or something like that

i set up a kit many years ago with an energy suspension distributor to supple the 4 mount we need for the vr4.

[LegnumPower]

if you have the poly bushes yoy dont need the big rubber washers at each side.

if you have the the standard factory rubber mounts the rubber mught bulge out of the mount when under loard and rub of the bracket holding the mount in place.
best thing to if you have failing rubber mount is to replace them with poly mounts.
use the link above in the thread for the package 001 or something like that

i set up a kit many years ago with an energy suspension distributor to supple the 4 mount we need for the vr4.

I did replace the driver side one, and i have a rubber insert for the (auto) transmission one that is bust too.. (I can get the parts numbers for those is someone is interested)
I haven't checked the rear and front ones, but i suspect they might need replacing too, and the energy suspension poly kit is very reasonably priced, so might as well go with that (Although I would rather prefer to minimize vibrations..)

[Davezj]

to be honest i did not notice any additional vibration when driving at all.
the only time i ever noticed slightly more vibration than stock was on low rpm idle. but i mean slight vibration.