Gearbox Urgent

[stephenlansbury]

Hi, I posted on here but got a reply more relevant to the lights than the gearbox. Also I got it wrong it's not the ABS light coming on!
ANYWAY...

My gear change on my auto box isn't smooth delay in changing gear from 2 to 3 and 3 to 4. It's noisy, like a dry pump noise.

engine warning light and TCL come on at the same time.

Any ideas? Or am I looking at a total gearbox replacement? :-(

[Nutter_John]

where abouts in the Uk are you , maybe one of the guys on here could come and have a look for ya


I assume you have checked the fuild levels and the colour

If you do need an auto box give me a shout as I have one

[stephenlansbury]

How much are u asking for your auto box? In case it comes to that.
I'm a mechanic myself and my experience is telling me the gearbox is screwed, but as I have no machine to plug it into nor any repair reference guides that aren't in Japanese I'm asking people on here first if they know what it might be.

[Nutter_John]

just sent you a private message

[Kieran]

You could have just replied to that other thread rather than starting a new one you know - Not that it matters but it can help with the 'history' of the problem :)

Okay - Engine warning light and TCL OFF light, if that's what's coming up is VERY common and is usually easily fixed. On the bulkhead, there's a little grey cannister with a couple of vacuum pipes going to it. That's part of the TCL system and it's common for those vaccuum lines to perish/split over time. The other thing is in close proximity there's a couple of solenoids/relays on a bracket that's connected to the bulkhead via anti-shock mounts. These can also give up - Again, check the pipes/connectors, give 'em a waggle, etc.

Gearbox noise... Well it could be any number of things but it isn't always terminal so don't start planning a gearbox change just yet - Certainly not untill you've had a 2nd opinion off someone on here (and not a Mitsubishi Garage as they will just say the gearbox is fubar whether it is or not).

As John says, fluid level and condition are critical to these boxes. Check those first. You need to check the level with the gearbox hot - The 'Cold' marks are just approximations. Drive around for at least 10/15 mins, pull up, go through EVERY gear position and then leave in neutral and check the level - Must be between the 'Hot' marks on the dipstick (Obviously!!) and check it 2 or 3 times as it's a bugger to get a good reading.

In terms of condition... Blot the dipstick on some white paper. You want to see rich, cherry red. Dark red or orange is a symptom that the gearbox fluid is breaking down, tan or brown means a change is overdue and anything worse (Black!!) means change ASAP.

The other thing it could be.... Check the engine mounts. There's two main load bearing mounts - One on the drivers side attached to the engine behind the coolant bottle, the other is under the airbox. If these have worn out they 'collapse'. You'll see cracking and the rubber will bulge (about 5mm + proud of the alloy casing). This allows the gearbox and engine to sink from their normal position and rest on the lower crossmember. This transmits a lot of noise from the gearbox into the cabin and can make a healthy gearbox sound poorly.

One other question - You say the change is "not smooth delay in changing". Do you just mean it takes ages between the gear indicator showing the next gear and it engaging, or do you mean it engages gear with a thump?

[stephenlansbury]

It just doesnt seem to know what gear it wants to go into - seems to flit between the gears. I test drove another one and that one just seemed to go into gear with a big fat thump, so I thought I'd go with this one - wondering if that was a bad idea now!

[Nutter_John]

you tried a battery reset , or has the battery been disconnected within in the last 200/300 miles as the box maybe in learning mode