T\C seal replacment procedure

[CJay]

The enevitable has occured, right when I'm in the process of selling - torque convertor seal failure ('01 Type S, 104k kms). The leak isn't serious at present and wasn't obvious when changing the engine oil 2k kms ago.

I'm leaving the car in with my mechanic soon to have the seal replaced, I believe its an easy process but could someone shed any light on the procedure following gearbox removal? I'd like to provide the mechanic with as much info as possible. Searched the forums but couldn't find a procedure listed (waiting to be proved wrong!).

CJ

[Kieran]

http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12217

That should help :)

[peter thomson]

We have just done this job and the actual seal is easy to change once all the hard work of removing the box is done. Our seal just fell out so we loctited the new one in place.

[CJay]

Thanks Kieran, had that one ready to go ;) Its an excellent guide but doesn't seem to reference the procedure for replacing the seal - any pointers appreciated.

CJ

[peter thomson]

Our seal just popped out and the new one was drifted in with a socket of the correct size and loctite to ensure it stayed in

[richy rich]

Once you have the gear box out stand it up so the T/C is facing upwards.

Use 2 bolts in to the T/C to lift the T/C out and but on the top of a bucket to allow the atf to drain,

Change the seal then.

But some fresh atf on the T/C shaft.

Then put the T/C back in, This part is very important that you do it correctly you must put it in place and turn the T/C until the flats on the shaft line up with the flats in the oil pump you will know when this has been done correctly because you will feel it drop into place.

Then put box back in making sure the T/C stays in place.

[CARMEL120]

thats good to know mine is also leaking is there any pics or diagrams of the t/c to reference on

[Nick Mann]

You shouldn't need to loctite in place. The new seals have a metallic ring to make the external face stiffer. TBH, the ones I have put in (4 now) have all been a very good fit.

[peter thomson]

You shouldn't need to loctite in place. The new seals have a metallic ring to make the external face stiffer. TBH, the ones I have put in (4 now) have all been a very good fit.

We just wanted to make sure Nick as the old one was not very tight and was half out when the TC was removed

[CJay]

Thanks for the info Nick.

CJ

[Nick Mann]

Fair enough, Peter. Did you notice the slight design change?

[peter thomson]

Fair enough, Peter. Did you notice the slight design change?

I had read about this in the past but can't remember what is changed.

[Nick Mann]

If you look into the seal from the gearbox side, (the hollow side of the seal) the newer style seal has a metallic ring on the rear of the front face. The older style doesn't.

I assume that this gives the whole seal better structural integrity? It will certainly make it harder to deform from it's circular shape.

[peter thomson]

If you look into the seal from the gearbox side, (the hollow side of the seal) the newer style seal has a metallic ring on the rear of the front face. The older style doesn't.

I assume that this gives the whole seal better structural integrity? It will certainly make it harder to deform from it's circular shape.

Just looked at the new one we have for Keith's next gearbox and can see that .It's surprising it was ever omitted as many seals I have seen include that part.

[CARMEL120]

cjay what about the leak,would it possible to foto the gearbox and the t/c seal for reference