boost solenoid by-pass

[kay]

hiya,got a mbc but i have looked at all the threads,but still not 100% about how to install it,i got this unit:


OK can i by-pass the stock boost solenoid by using the 2 hoses that go in to there (i read on a thread that if u disconnect it it well send a signal to the ecu,so can u just take the 2 hoses out and stick them to the mbc,picture below) and can i put the tee piece that got to the place where the original tee piece with the arrow facing towards the turbo



there is a thread on here to help but it a bit different to mine and that tee piece i just don't know where it goes,and i put a boost gauge in,its reading at 0.5 bar,is that right reading on a stock vr4
thanks

Pictures not coming up on this, posting a new thread.

[kay]

ok its not letting me attach the pictures so the mbc which i have is on this link:

http://turborevs.org.uk/components/com_virtuemart/shop_image/product/5cc422465bfeaf466332dddf6076cb24.jpg


the hoses i am talking about, are the ones that go to the boost solenoid,1 has a red tip going to the plastic pipe with a tee in it going to the solenoid and the other 1 going from the solenoid to the air box,can it work this way?

[Nick Mann]

You would normally put the red tipped pipe on the boost controller and run a new pipe from the boost controller to where the red tipped pipe used to be.

You therefore control the boost pressure that the stock solenoid sees. I'm not sure putting a manual controller in without any solenoid is a good idea.

[kay]

i was thinking the same thing,the tee piece that's been supplied,do i have to put it in,can i just put the controller in or is this mbc no good

[Nick Mann]

It depends on how it needs plumbing in. You'll have to read the instructions!

[kay]

this is what the instruction manual says,

-Fit the T piece between the pressure source and the waste gate actuator, keep the joining hoses to a minimum length

-route the pressure hose from the T piece into the cabin and then to the position of where the boost controller will be mounted.

-Fit the hose clamp included in the kit on to the end of the pressure hose

-Fit the end of the pressure hose to the boost controller and crimp both of the crimp tabs on the hose clamp

-

[Nick Mann]

Do that then!

So fit the T to the red tipped pipe location. Then the adjuster to the T as described.

[apeman69]

When you say the T-piece I assume you mean the purple block with three nipples on it.
If this is the case then connect as follows:-
T-piece block is installed in the pipe with the red tip that goes from the inlet elbow (thick black plastic pipe) down to the boost solenoid area. Cut the red-tipped pipe in half and put the T-piece block into this pipe. The arrow on the T-piece block should be pointing down and away from the inlet so that flow is from the inlet down toward the boost solenoid area. If you don't want to cut the red-tipped hose then detatch it at the inlet connection (the other end is a pain to get to because you'll need to disassemble stuff and there is limited access) and use another piece of hose to connect the T-piece block to where you disconnected the red-tipped pipe.

I've attached a picture of this type of MBC installed in mine.

Basically, the T-piece block with the arrow is connected in the red-tipped pipe (boost source) so that the arrow on the T-piece is facing away from the driver as you sit in the car: flow is from inlet elbow toward boost solenoid. The hose is connected to the two nipples that are in line with the flow arrow on the T-piece block. The other nipple on the block (the one pointing upward if the arrow is facing left or right) connects to the adjuster by way of another piece of hose. The MBC is designed so that the adjuster is kept in-cabin though it isn't the best design to actually mount anywhere! Note that there are two nipples on the adjuster but only one of these is connected to the T-piece block. The other is a vent to atmosphere and shouldn't be plugged.

Hope this makes sense 'cos it's a little difficult to describe.

A word of advice: check that the T-piece block will allow air to pass through it because the one I got had purple paint inside (visible through the nipple to which the adjuster connects) which stopped the ball bearing from moving and, effectively, meant that my car had no boost limit. Bloody fast but also bloody scary! Needless to say mine was on and off the car a few times before I found out what the problem was.

Good luck and enjoy the improved performance.


WHAT'S WITH THESE UPLOADED IMAGES NOT DISPLAYING?

[elnevio]

So it's an MBC with in-car adjustment then!

0.45-0.55bar is about the right stock pressure range for a prefacelift auto.

[kay]

i thought i put the mbc in today as i got the off,so i started by cleaning it out,i took out the adjuster to start with looking 4 paint or dirt,but i found out when i took it apart that this system is a bleed system and not a spring and ball system,by reading other threads a lot of members don't recommend the bleed system.

elnevio im not sure if it is,i was told that is a under the bonnet mbc,

[apeman69]

Kay, there should be a ball bearing and spring in the T-piece block. If you look down the nipple where the hose from the adjuster connects you may be able to see it. Poking a precision screwdriver down one of the other nipples in the direction of flow whilst looking down the adjuster connector nipple should confirm that there is a spring and ball in there. I spent many an hour trying to figure out how this thing worked and just gave up. It's the same principle as a Dawes device just laid out differently. Effectively the spring and ball is not integrated with the adjuster (hence remote adjustment is possible). It has all the same components: bleed hole, ball & spring, adjusting mechanism. The adjuster is intended to be in-cabin but how often would you want to adjust the boost anyway. Fit and forget.
I cable-tied the adjuster next to the air filter but remember that the breather nipple on the adjuster shouldn't be blocked by anything (like the lagging on the inside of the bonnet).
Shove it on, set it up and put lead in your boots!

[ianturbo]

i got one of them (first time round ) i think its still in my boot , there is no ball bearing in it its just a bleed valve ,throw it away and get one of these
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Manual-Boost-Controller-Mitsubishi-Lancer-Evo-GTO-VR4_W0QQitemZ350168729850QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Car sParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item350168729850&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1121%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C 240%3A1318
much better !
ian
i never looked in the T piece bit ! Tommorow is another day !

[kay]

OK i have just had a look at it,well it looks as if there's a ball in there but no spring,ill give it a go and see how it goes!

[apeman69]

I've been running one of these for over 6 months. No problems so far. Once it's set up (the adjuster on mine did take a while to fine tune) it does the job just the same as a Dawes. It's got to because it's just the same kit really.
Mine was one of those cheapo jobbies off e-bay, about £15 I paid.
Ian, as said, the ball bearing is in the T-piece bit.

[ianturbo]

Ian, as said, the ball bearing is in the T-piece bit.
i never looked in there /pan /pan
ian

[kay]

apeman69,yep i got mine off the same place,same price! well thanks a lot every1,ill let u lot know how i get on! thanks again apeman69

[kay]

well fitted the mbc in today,how apeman69 told me to,had a fuel cut kind of thing at 3500-4500 rpm in 4th gear to start off with,but that was with the controller fully open,now the boost it at 0.9-10.2 bar with no cuts,much better thanks.

by the way is it safe at 0.9-10.2 bar on stock apart from a hks air filter

[Nick Mann]

I think you mean 0.9 to 1.2? Or 0.9 to 1.02? 10.2 bar is well beyond these turbos, and, indeed, most turbos!

Glad you've got it sorted though. Also glad you are enjoying it! :D

[kay]

yep,i am enjoying it,i think a bit too much,already gone though £60 of petrol and its only been on there 4 about 3hrs,oh well!
yep it must be 0.9-10.2,so nick you do think i should turn them down,if that reading is well beyond for these turbos.

[apeman69]

I had mine set so that the max I saw was 0.9 bar
Your range must be 0.9 to 1.02 or 1.2 'cos you'd push it to get a gauge that read up to 10.2 bar I guess. When I first installed mine I was getting to 1.4 bar before I wet myself and backed off!
Thinking that the odd spike might take it to about 1.2 bar or so I turned mine down so that the max I get is around 0.8 bar.
I find this is plenty and I've never had fuel cut up to now.
I also 'by-passed' the boost solenoid by blanking one of the pipes from the solenoid. This resulted in hardly any noticable boost spikes compared to before I blanked the pipe. Don't ask me how I did this though because I've been trying to remember to let you know but it was a while ago now. There is a t-piece junction near the boost solenoid and I think I routed the piping so that the solenoid did not get a pressure input. Left the electronics in place, solenoid just doesn't get any pressure to it. I think that's how I did it and it made sense at the time but without removing the thick turbo pipes to the inlet and having a look I cannot say for definite (from memory) how I did it. There was an article on here that gave me the idea of what to do so a search for 'MBC' or 'boost solenoid' or something might help if you want to do this.
If you consider you were running 0.5 bar then an increase to 0.8/0.9 is a fair old improvement for a couple of quid.
Kay, did you mount the adjuster in the cabin or the engine bay?

[apeman69]

BTW to set the MBC I floored it in 5th from about 2000 RPM to see what the boost peaked at (auto, not tip) and used this reading as a guide to increase or decrease the boost via the adjuster. Kept repeating until it was stable at my required setting of (at the time) 0.9bar
My adjuster is only a few (5 or 6) clicks from fully closed and, after my initial pant wetting run (seemed to have unlimited boost) I started with it closed altogether and opened it up gradually after each trial run.

[kay]

apeman69 i mounted the adjuster in engine bay next to the the air filter(ill try to get a pic up for you tomorrow,it don't wanna let me upload,sorry),i got a gauge that reads up to 2 bar boost,i was thinking not to do any think else with the turbo for now,wanna go for the de-cat,down pipes,inter cooler and brakes,there next in line,then i will get the map ecu2,which iv been told by a company that does ecu's that the map ecu2 should cover every think else and just to do the upgrades that i want and they will much the ecu to that.

[kay]

i done something smiler to adjust mine,but i went on the M25, and just kept on stopping at the next junctions(which was about 3-4 times),i mines up to 3-4 clicks i think,on the last run there where no fuel cuts so i was happy!

[apeman69]

Good plan. I've done the MBC & brakes, exhaust next then MapEcu2. Hoping to get these done probably around summer. I was going to get LongLife to make the whole exhaust including downpipes but I'm now hoping to get one of the RPW downpipes through the group buy on here http://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=37782 then I'll just get LongLife to do the de-cat and back box so I can have some say on the noise level. RPW downpipes should be here mid-April I think so it gives me time to get a few niggles sorted on the car. I've been planning to do the MapEcu2 for almost a year now. Nick Mann took me out for a few minutes in his Leggy with MapEcu2 partially tuned (he's tuning it himself) and what a difference it makes.
I'll get the exhaust sorted then off to Eurospec 2000 to have the MapEcu2 fitted and tuned and, funds permitting, maybe something done with intercooler and transmission cooler while they're at it!

[kay]

i was thinking the same down pipes,but ain't made my mind up yet.i got a sport back box on my vr4,it came like that,it ain't load so i am OK there,not a big fan on load exhausts,i am going to get my ecu done from them as well,that's 1 place were i have not heard of any bad feedback and a lot of people don't like touching the vr4's.