WTB: Front O/S driveshaft *** NO LONGER REQUIRED! ***

[peter thomson]

As title a front offside driveshaft as my one has been damaged removing it from the wheel bearing or if anybody has found a source for the cv joint only a link to one. thanks

[stuartturbo]

I assume you have mushroom'd the end over
As thats what i did Doh /lol
I put mine in a lathe a machined the end of but you could do it with a grinder or file

[peter thomson]

It was like the shaft was welded to the bearing and some of the threads are damaged. It's torqued up ok but I want to replace as I don't want to replace another wheel bearing

[peter thomson]

As title a front offside driveshaft as my one has been damaged removing it from the wheel bearing or if anybody has found a source for the cv joint only a link to one. thanks

bump

[TAR]

A quick trawl of the internet gave this result, and there are many more. Maybe worth giving them a call as they say that they do Japanese parts.

http://www.cvjoints.co.uk/home.cfm

Please note that I don't have any knowledge of this company.
:happy:

[peter thomson]

Yes I had already found them .thanks

[Davezj]

sorry pete if this is a sucking eggs info but some might not know this. i have just read back what i have written and it is a bit disjointed but you get the gist.

i suppose you have done the usual WD40 stuff. i had what seemed to be welded on nuts when did some work on my car and i did a week long programme of WD40 the nuts at a regular intervals and after a week of sparying they came off no problem.

on the car you can do this.
an over night spray just is not enough in some instances. take the center cap out of the wheel so you can get better acces with the wheel in place. spray from the outside and the inside of the stuck shaft.

then there is the method of removal.
prop for removal would be disconnect all ball/arm joint from the hub carrier except top one leave for support. brace the back of the hub carrier so when shaft is hit hub carrier can not move (harder than it sounds).
i have found the shaft damage will always occur when wacking the shaft with a hammer/drift. The mistake most people make is to take the nut completely off the shaft. what you need to do is undo it so the nuts sits slightly proude of the end of the shaft then all you are hutting is the nut and this can be replaced if it get damaged. i old socket and extertion bar can be used as a drift, as a correct size socket can be picked to clear the shaft itself. or the big gear puller methed could work.

the easiest way to do the above would be to remove the hub carrier and shaft assembly from the car and do the above method on the bench. but this would assume you car take the car off the road for a week.

if you can get the shaft hub assembly off in one then it will be easier to get the WD40 to run down the splins of the shaft and free it up much quicker. you could always try a big gear puller, to apply the needed force without using the wacking mothod. but i think it wouls have to be a big one to get round the sides of the hub.

hope you get something out of the post.

[peter thomson]

Hi Dave yes I always leave the nut on as described but this shaft still required the use of a very big hammer to get it to shift and due to a hospital appointment last week and Keith's car playing up my car had to be back on the road or I would have left it for longer to soak in WD40.
Any progress with your engine mounts?

[Davezj]

kind of stalled on that issue. like you i always seem to be struggle for time. i found out that my front roll stopper had collapesed and i ahve not been able to find a urathane replacement so i think i will have to bit the bullet and go buy a V6 eclipse front roll stopper and get a urathane replacemnet for that. if you remember i stupidly bought the wrong unathane replacement kit. which was fot the 4 pot eclipse. front roll stopper being the the only difference.

[peter thomson]

I'm sure you should be able to buy just the rollstopper poly bush on it's own Dave

[peter thomson]

no longer required