manual conversion HELP! lol

[gesta1t]

Hi guys..

I am in the middle of a manual conversion into my tiptronic legnum

I have all the parts out of a manual galant....few general questions and also specifically about gearbox. If you know all of them awesome...if some thats cool too....

1. reverse lights...I have the whole manual engine loom and ecu...will the reverse lights work as is or do i need to replace the whole interior loom as well.

2. will just replacing the engine loom mean the car will work?

3. there are a whole lot of air lines and filters going into air fuel before the plenum on the auto that are not there on the manual... and this all connects to the traction control solenoids or whatever... the manual loom does not have plugs for the traction control ****e....do manual legums have traction control etc...mine has the on off switch...

4. if I ignore this and just hook up the charcoal filter into the air/fuel like amanual galant will this be ok

5. What is the right/best method for getting the engine/auto box out of the car and putting the manual engine and gearbox in. - have the looms out hoses off etc...

6. what is best/simplest method of removing boxes, dropping engine in and re attaching the gear box....auto and manul *sigh*

thanks

[bradc]

1. Mine was an auto and was converted to manual. The loom are different and my reverse lights don't work.

2. Most likely!

3. The traction control system won't work with the manual gearbox. My car was an auto without traction control so I don't know a huge amount about the conversion, but I beleive there are a few problems if you try and keep the traction control

4. yep

5. luck and swearing. drop it on the gearbox side and leave the engine side mount bolted up, the gearbox should drop off!

6. the opposite of 5.

[gesta1t]

ok so with the gearboxes...just undo the bolts around the outside connecting to the main block and it should pop off when its on its side?

[Johny]

1. Mine was an auto and was converted to manual. The loom are different and my reverse lights don't work.

2. Most likely!

3. The traction control system won't work with the manual gearbox. My car was an auto without traction control so I don't know a huge amount about the conversion, but I beleive there are a few problems if you try and keep the traction control

4. yep

5. luck and swearing. drop it on the gearbox side and leave the engine side mount bolted up, the gearbox should drop off!

6. the opposite of 5.


yours was an auto? :O

[bradc]

Basically yes

[VR4WGN]

personaly i am going to drop the engine and auto box completly to do the manual conversion this week,i feel it will be easier,this way i get to clean the turbos and engine etc and do a few bits n peaces too and have al lthe room in the world to lay the hydraulic hose for the clutch and ft the cylinders etc aswell.

but thats just me personally

hope all goes well dude

[Nutter_John]

it's a peice of piss making the reverse switych work , all youy need to do is short out tow pins on the inhibator , no loom changes or anything

[Nick Mann]

What John said. Two pins need to be shorted on the inhibitor plug to make the car start. (The ecu needs to think the car is in P or N) Two other pins can be wired direct to your reverse switch on the manual box to make the reverse lights work. You even still get the reverse beeping!

Your TCL will be overly sensitive, I believe, but will work. I don't think it is possible to drive a converted car with TCL hard, unless you turn the TCL off.

[Subaru ETA]

yours was an auto? :O

i beleive he had it converted because of issues in getting the autronic to work with the tip tronic?

[gesta1t]

hmm ok don't think i explained properly...

I'm dropping out the auto engine and box completely and replacing with a manual galant engine and box... have the manual ecu too...

also...what is the process for getting engine out...

e.g. how much of the box do I take off to lift it all out....do I unbolt the box from next to the diff (one of the bolts goes onto other side of the diff from the looks of it...then drop the whole box out the bottom, and then lift the engine out the top etc... or what.... got no idea of the best way to do this all

[gesta1t]

personaly i am going to drop the engine and auto box completly to do the manual conversion this week,i feel it will be easier,this way i get to clean the turbos and engine etc and do a few bits n peaces too and have al lthe room in the world to lay the hydraulic hose for the clutch and ft the cylinders etc aswell.

but thats just me personally

hope all goes well dude
also....I have the clutch line and master cylinder from the galant...can I use this or do I need to have one made...LOOKS like it should go ok...???

[Nick Mann]

You can use all the parts from the manual galant. You'll need all the mechanical parts to the gearbox,including clutch pedal, gear linkage etc. You don't need to change the engine. You don't even need to change the ecu. You will need to drill the bulkhead for the clutch master cylinder, but the reinforcement is there to make it obvious where the hole needs to go.

If you really do want to take the whole lot out, you can drop the engine & gearbox out through the bottom with a bit of jiggery-pokery. You can't lift it out in one piece - the engine mount points get in the way.

[VR4WGN]

Hey nick um to make it easier for the guy its way faster and easier to drop the whole lot including the sub-frame,that way all you need to do is .
firstly loosen the crown bolts on the hubs.
unbolt the linage bolt on the steering columb
undolt the wishbone above the arches to drop the knuckles down.
undo prop shaft.
undo exhaust.
ofcourse remove and disconnect all plumbing and wiring.
make sure all oil is drainded and water.
engine crane on the block and box,undo engine mounts left/right,leving front and rear bolted on.
remove bolts on north/south x-member on front .
unbolt subframe from car,look and youll see what bolts need undoing,thn easy az the engine and box will drop straight down,no jiggling lol,and then just reverse the process not forgetting to connect steering columb up in the end and aligning the wheel too.
anymore info just yell out,youll see its very simple dude

[VR4WGN]

the galant(if 97-06) all the items are identicle and wil lbolt up so no problems there,remember this that ALL LEGNUM/GALANTS 96-06 all parts from front to rear seat rests are interchangeable(interior wise),outside and underneth all drivetrain etc is the same so wil lfit too,ecept taillights and bumpers etc... and if its PFL too

[gesta1t]

Hey nick um to make it easier for the guy its way faster and easier to drop the whole lot including the sub-frame,that way all you need to do is .
firstly loosen the crown bolts on the hubs.
unbolt the linage bolt on the steering columb
undolt the wishbone above the arches to drop the knuckles down.
undo prop shaft.
undo exhaust.
ofcourse remove and disconnect all plumbing and wiring.
make sure all oil is drainded and water.
engine crane on the block and box,undo engine mounts left/right,leving front and rear bolted on.
remove bolts on north/south x-member on front .
unbolt subframe from car,look and youll see what bolts need undoing,thn easy az the engine and box will drop straight down,no jiggling lol,and then just reverse the process not forgetting to connect steering columb up in the end and aligning the wheel too.
anymore info just yell out,youll see its very simple dude
ok...how do i get the car over the engine? etc

[Nick Mann]

If you have no facility to lift the car over the engine, then remove the gearbox first and bring it out through the weelarch. Then you can lift the engine out of the engine bay. You can't lift them out whilst bolted together - they have to go out downwards in that case.

[SGHOM]

ok...how do i get the car over the engine? etc

2 standard 3 ton jacks on the jacking points will lift the car high enough to remove the engine & box etc. thats is if you remove the rad 1st ! :pimp2:

[gesta1t]

2 standard 3 ton jacks on the jacking points will lift the car high enough to remove the engine & box etc. thats is if you remove the rad 1st ! :pimp2:
do you mean the radiator or the rad support panel....?? and how do i then move the engine?

[SGHOM]

do you mean the radiator or the rad support panel....?? and how do i then move the engine?

Like this :afro:

[VR4WGN]

if you look carefully on the L/H side ,remove the gearbox splash cover on the inside arch and youll see a perfectly sculpted area where youll drag the engine out from,sort of sideways and head on if you know what i mean,all you need to do is lift the car high enough to get it thru the hole,but if you dont line it up correctly it will mean youll need to lift the car higher then,confidence dude,confidence and youll be fine trust em,the boys up here are allways willing to give advise so youll be fine,

[gesta1t]

if you look carefully on the L/H side ,remove the gearbox splash cover on the inside arch and youll see a perfectly sculpted area where youll drag the engine out from,sort of sideways and head on if you know what i mean,all you need to do is lift the car high enough to get it thru the hole,but if you dont line it up correctly it will mean youll need to lift the car higher then,confidence dude,confidence and youll be fine trust em,the boys up here are allways willing to give advise so youll be fine,
YEaaaaaahaaaahhh... I have a new engine and it WORKS yeah baby...

few bugs though.....

the power steering make an odd whine/squeal when at full lock to the left....anyone know whats up with that?

also the abs light on the dash is on and staying on *sigh * ...again any ideas?

Also....the old engine had a boost tap on it...however the took out the T pipe out ...that goes into the wastegate solenoid....and just had it straight through...is this right and proper...as now there is just a small pipe attached to nothing...???

[Nick Mann]

Power steering - belt? Pump? Low fluid? Difficult to say.

The ABS could be a multitude of things too. Have you done a fault code check?

I don't understand which pipe you are talking about, but they should all go somewhere.

[gesta1t]

the pipe that comes off the air intake (has some red paint on the end standard) is where you hook your boost tap/whatever up to....on stock it goes to a T join...one goes on to the (turbo actuatators???) and then the other end goes to the waste gate solenoid... the guy before me took out the t bar and the pip coming off the solenoid is venting to atmosphere

also...power steering has full lfuid...but not sure if it's circulated all the way through...have turned the wheels...which is when this noise occurs . the belt being too loose/tight...would that cause a strange noise in the front left?? at full lock to the left??

[Scottie]

Does the engine need to be dropped to mount the clutch cylinder?

[Nick Mann]

Nope. Drill your hole from the inside - there is a plate spot welded on the bulkhead so you can see where the holes need to be. It is fiddly getting the bolts on afterwards, but not as fiddly as removing the block. Getting the pipe round the bulkhead to the gearbox from the master cylinder is probably more difficult than fitting the master cylinder.

[raph]

Been there,done that to a Eclipse Cabriolet , all the holes for the master cylinder and Pedalbox was dimpeled,so all it took was a drill.

Took the box out through the Left Wheelarch and i removed the lower arms and Hub bit completely to aid access.

Pump is prolly whining because you need to #bleed it.. Aisin Powersteering pumps need a while to bleed.. just jack up the front, turn wheels 35 times from left lock to right lock..remove the Cover on the Reservior while doing this, wrap a rag around the resv. to catch any fluid in case it bubbles over . then check the fluid level again.

Hmm,any more hints..

Oh yeah, do torque the Flywheel down properly, and use Threadlock on the flywheel bolts ( get Manual Bolts as the Auto ones are usually shorter-the Auto Flexplate is usually thinner)

Remember to Fill up the gearbox with oil!!

erm.. Bleeding mitsy Clutches are very easy

What kind of Clutch/flywheel combo are you using?? some require a shiming of the Fulcrum ball (where the Clutch fork pivots) or a longer Slave rod if the wrong Flywheel is used(wrong step..can be machined tho)

Id swap the seals on the input shaft before fitting a used box..bugger to have em leak after the first test drive..

[raph]

Does the engine need to be dropped to mount the clutch cylinder?


Ouch RHD means its all on the engine side..thats a bugger!

[Scottie]

Ouch RHD means its all on the engine side..thats a bugger!

Because i will have to dodge the steering column etc?

[Nick Mann]

Raph - sounds like the eclipse isn't that similar to the VR4.

RHD means that the master cylinders are behind the engine - on a LHD car they would be behind the gearbox. (Or above the gearbox, meaning more room and easier access.) But they didn't make the 8g VR4 in LHD.

The clutch is a pain in the ass to bleed. I understand the Evo is just as bad. It's okay if the system has some fluid in, but it's a royal PITA if the system is completely dry. Use a vaccuum system and try to lock the slave cylinder piston, or the fork to the clutch, so there is no movement there whilst the pressure is changing.

The flywheel bolts are fine to swap between auto and manual. The standard flywheel on the VR4 splits - you have a plate bolted to the crank which then bolts to the starter ring assembly through the inspection hatch at the bottom of the bellhousing (Looking from the sump side.) It works in a very similar way to the TC bolting to a plate on the auto.

[Scottie]

OK Thanks, I had a look at the car last night and found the blanking patch for the clutch mounting holes, looks fairly easy to access.

I have a complete VR4 that i am sourcing parts from so will use the flywheel, clutch, transfer case from that.

Thanks again.

[Scottie]

I have seen a comment on clutch cables. Is it better to run a new line to the clutch from the master cylinder rather that remove/fit the standard pipe from the donor car?

[VR4WGN]

the pipe that comes off the air intake (has some red paint on the end standard) is where you hook your boost tap/whatever up to....on stock it goes to a T join...one goes on to the (turbo actuatators???) and then the other end goes to the waste gate solenoid... the guy before me took out the t bar and the pip coming off the solenoid is venting to atmosphere

also...power steering has full lfuid...but not sure if it's circulated all the way through...have turned the wheels...which is when this noise occurs . the belt being too loose/tight...would that cause a strange noise in the front left?? at full lock to the left??


could be a old pump maby? try flushing it maby?

[raph]

Raph - sounds like the eclipse isn't that similar to the VR4.

RHD means that the master cylinders are behind the engine - on a LHD car they would be behind the gearbox. (Or above the gearbox, meaning more room and easier access.) But they didn't make the 8g VR4 in LHD.

The clutch is a pain in the ass to bleed. I understand the Evo is just as bad. It's okay if the system has some fluid in, but it's a royal PITA if the system is completely dry. Use a vaccuum system and try to lock the slave cylinder piston, or the fork to the clutch, so there is no movement there whilst the pressure is changing.

The flywheel bolts are fine to swap between auto and manual. The standard flywheel on the VR4 splits - you have a plate bolted to the crank which then bolts to the starter ring assembly through the inspection hatch at the bottom of the bellhousing (Looking from the sump side.) It works in a very similar way to the TC bolting to a plate on the auto.


Thats excatley what i meant by RHD ouch .. less room to work with

Many cars have different flywheel bolts between Auto + Manu.. it was just a "heads up"

Clutch bleeding is excatley the same, u need a mate to pump the clutch,and you grab the biggest pair of pleirs you can find and hold the rod of the slave cylinder in , (just hold the clutchfork and slave cylinder closed) A Plumbers Pliers/good pipe wrench works for me.