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GalantOnly
24-05-2009, 01:00 PM
Hi folks...

The trouble is as stated: when selecting Drive, nothing happened. Not even "D" or "1" light in the dash. When selecting reverse, it will work, but very harsh engagement... So the car can actually only reverse...:beerbang:

When engine is started in "N" and then selector is pushed it in "D" right after, sometimes it will work, but only in 3'rd and there's still no gear-lights...

And after driving for a while in third (may take hours), it will suddenly shift as it supposed to and everything is fine. But next morning it will be all the same againg.../wall

No fault codes...

I suspect sticky(?) solenoids... Anyone can confirm anything?:)
bradc
25-05-2009, 07:02 AM
When D is selected and there is no D light on can you turn the car off and remove the keys as if you were in N or P? (or whatever the auto fail safe thingee is)

You haven't been playing around in the ECU area recently and might have loosened something? What about swapping the ECU across from one of your others?
GalantOnly
25-05-2009, 12:14 PM
When D is selected and there is no D light on can you turn the car off and remove the keys as if you were in N or P? (or whatever the auto fail safe thingee is)

You haven't been playing around in the ECU area recently and might have loosened something? What about swapping the ECU across from one of your others?

Thanks for response, Brad...

No, everything else is as supposed to be when in D - can't remove the key...

The story is, that I've bought the car like this... And drove it all the way from UK to Denmark 90% of the time in third.../rally The seller told me from the beginning, that there was something wrong with the box. He told me also, that he have "overhauled" it, but it didn't help... So I took fresh A/T ECU with me - it didn't help either...:undecided

So I've decided to open the valve body this weekend... and when I did, I got sick...:stars: I can't figure out what's going on there, when the car is in "D"... 6 solenoids, some springs, steel balls, accumulators and so on...:rolleyes4

I've measured solenoid resistance (the book said must be between 2.7 and 3.6 ohm) - all 6 solenoids is at 3.7 ohm... But don't think it means anything...

So my question to ppl is: what happens down there, when the D is selected? Is there one of six solenoids, which is responsible for that? Or it's something else?
peter thomson
25-05-2009, 01:18 PM
That's the same resistance value we found on the new solenoids we fitted. Have you powered up each solenoid to check it is "clicking". In the end we discovered a wiring fault where the AT harness joins the engine harness. The wires are doubled over at that point and appears to have put a bit of strain on them . We discovered this just by having the ignition on and moving the wiring and we managed to put the box in limp home mode without even the engine running. Could be worth a try.
GalantOnly
25-05-2009, 08:01 PM
That's the same resistance value we found on the new solenoids we fitted. Have you powered up each solenoid to check it is "clicking". In the end we discovered a wiring fault where the AT harness joins the engine harness. The wires are doubled over at that point and appears to have put a bit of strain on them . We discovered this just by having the ignition on and moving the wiring and we managed to put the box in limp home mode without even the engine running. Could be worth a try.

I want veeeery much to power the solenoids up and hear them sing - and I even got a MUT-II to do it right... The problem is, the MUT for some reasons unable to activate them... It ask: do you want to activate? I press YES... And the answer is "Can not activate"... Nice...

Peter, when you did checked them this way... Was it 12V, you gave them?
peter thomson
25-05-2009, 08:04 PM
Yes 12 volts to them
Subaru ETA
25-05-2009, 10:46 PM
to me it does sound like a wiring issue. i would of thought that if it was a solenoid issue it would still display that you are in D on the dash!
GalantOnly
25-05-2009, 11:34 PM
That's typical...:uhoh: This pic of the inhibitor switch is taken AFTER the whole valve body is off and turned into pieces...

What do you think of that, people?! Can those two little tiny pins really decide for me if I'll be able to drive the car or not?!

The poor man sold me his car for £500 because of this connector...
GalantOnly
25-05-2009, 11:49 PM
Pins 1 and 8 is kinda missing...
Pin 1 is actually for auto modus = D lamp...
bradc
26-05-2009, 01:34 AM
Sounds like it is the culprit!
GalantOnly
26-05-2009, 01:51 AM
Sounds like it is the culprit!

Can it be THAT easy?!:inquisiti

But now the main problem is to reassemble the valve body...:sick2:
- there's two small steel balls on the floor, I just don't know where came from.../pan
peter thomson
26-05-2009, 05:56 AM
Those 2 pins are for one of the solenoids and the other for the oil temp going by the info I wrote down when I had the valve cover off
Subaru ETA
26-05-2009, 07:30 AM
thought it would be something stupid like that
GalantOnly
26-05-2009, 09:49 AM
thought it would be something stupid like that
And you're pretty right... Wiring, here we go.../yes
GalantOnly
26-05-2009, 09:53 AM
Those 2 pins are for one of the solenoids and the other for the oil temp going by the info I wrote down when I had the valve cover off

Peter, did you have the valve body off too?
peter thomson
26-05-2009, 10:24 AM
Peter, did you have the valve body off too?

No I'm afraid not. We didn't go any further than replacing the solenoids. Is this so you can find out where the parts go back together
peter thomson
26-05-2009, 10:28 AM
This is for the 4 speed box but may be of some helping with locating where parts go

http://www.club3g.com/forum/maintenance/107837-how-fix-2-3-shift-flare-sportronic-forever.html
GalantOnly
26-05-2009, 11:03 AM
This is for the 4 speed box but may be of some helping with locating where parts go

http://www.club3g.com/forum/maintenance/107837-how-fix-2-3-shift-flare-sportronic-forever.html

Thanks, mate... very helpfull... Have a rep for that:iloveyou:

edit: how the hell do I give rep for Peters comment?!/pan Anyone can help? Peter?/lol
Turbo_Steve
26-05-2009, 06:02 PM
Need to be a paid up member, I'm afraid.
GalantOnly
26-05-2009, 07:14 PM
Need to be a paid up member, I'm afraid.

/pan
Allright... I owe you one then...
Davezj
31-05-2009, 11:22 AM
Those 2 pins are for one of the solenoids and the other for the oil temp going by the info I wrote down when I had the valve cover off

Pete which pin is the oil temp pin as i have been looking for this info so i can try to run a guage off it.
I will have to be carefull not to load the signal by adding the gauge. as this could cause incorrect reading of Auto box temp to go to the A/T ECU and put it in limp mode for no reason. i think it will work if tap in to the actual temp sensor output from the box as the temp output from the ECU can not be used. I think it has been converted to a digital equivalent by the ECU so it can be sent to the Engine ECU over the CAN Bus type connection.

Cheers dave
peter thomson
31-05-2009, 12:44 PM
Looking down at the multiplug on the gearbox the last 2 on the right hand side are for the oil temp Dave. The wiring colours for the solenoids are for the gearbox internal loom
Davezj
31-05-2009, 01:09 PM
Thanks pete
I presume one pin is signal and the other is to reference to Chassis Gnd as it may not be possible to do so from inside the box. i will have to get a meter on them to see which is which. I am prsuming there is only one temp sensor in the box.

Dave
GalantOnly
31-05-2009, 01:19 PM
Looking down at the multiplug on the gearbox the last 2 on the right hand side are for the oil temp Dave. The wiring colours for the solenoids are for the gearbox internal loom

Just be aware, that you talking about another connector on the top of gearbox, than what is on my pics... For the inhibitor switch (my pics) the 10-pin connector is black. The 10-pin connector for the solenoids and temp sensor is grey...

And on the grey one, it's absolutely correct, pin 1 & 2 is for temp sensor. But those wires is going all the way to the A/T ECU, so it will be much easier to use the wires from the cabin... There's a thread in the member section with pinouts for A/T ECU.../yes
GalantOnly
31-05-2009, 01:22 PM
Thanks pete
I presume one pin is signal and the other is to reference to Chassis Gnd as it may not be possible to do so from inside the box. i will have to get a meter on them to see which is which. I am prsuming there is only one temp sensor in the box.

Dave

Pin 1 is 5V from ECU. I guess you can use pin 2 for readings... As far as I remember, the colour is green/yellow...
peter thomson
31-05-2009, 01:48 PM
Just be aware, that you talking about another connector on the top of gearbox, than what is on my pics... For the inhibitor switch (my pics) the 10-pin connector is black. The 10-pin connector for the solenoids and temp sensor is grey...

And on the grey one, it's absolutely correct, pin 1 & 2 is for temp sensor. But those wires is going all the way to the A/T ECU, so it will be much easier to use the wires from the cabin... There's a thread in the member section with pinouts for A/T ECU.../yes

I gave you the info on the wrong plug then. I thought is was the solenoid plug rather than the one on the selector.
Is it sorted now??
GalantOnly
31-05-2009, 02:01 PM
I gave you the info on the wrong plug then. I thought is was the solenoid plug rather than the one on the selector.
Is it sorted now??

I know... I've confused you with all my solenoid-talk...:) But yes, the problem is sorted and the car is driving as it should now... And due to your link, I was able to put the valve body together again.../Wyhy
Davezj
31-05-2009, 02:30 PM
All is well with the world!
peter thomson
31-05-2009, 03:21 PM
I know... I've confused you with all my solenoid-talk...:) But yes, the problem is sorted and the car is driving as it should now... And due to your link, I was able to put the valve body together again.../Wyhy

Great ,superb to see an auto being sorted