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View Full Version : Replacing inner steering rack ends?



wintertidenz
19-06-2009, 05:13 AM
Before anyone asks, yes I have used search :P

Went to get a WOF today (MOT for those of you in the UK) and I was told that my inner steering rack ends are shot - heaps of play in them, possibly ball joints too.
Unfortunately it is a WOF issue and I can't get one without them being replaced. I've found the parts for relatively cheap, but can't find how to replace them - any gurus here know how to, preferably with pretty little pictures? :P I've been told it is a difficult job but really don't have the cash to get the mechanic to do it ($200 all up for replacement, no wheel alignment though).

Thanks.

bradc
19-06-2009, 05:57 AM
Got your text earlier :) Never done it myself before sorry

wintertidenz
19-06-2009, 06:56 AM
Brad - want to try replacing them then? LOL!

When I come over in the weekend, I might have to get you to try and actuate my AYC too :P mechanic reckons the AYC pump is shot...?

bradc
19-06-2009, 08:06 AM
Having the half cut will make it easy, we'll be able to see what is involved easily.

Gly
19-06-2009, 08:55 AM
its a PITA!

have you bought the parts?

wintertidenz
19-06-2009, 08:56 AM
Going to get the parts from Appco tomorrow.

peter thomson
19-06-2009, 10:05 AM
I'm changing one tomorrow as well. Is it that much of a pain Carsten

Gly
19-06-2009, 10:44 AM
it can be,

getting the locking washer loose and finding the right tool big enough to undo the inner rack, but still small enough to fit in the small space and turn.,

and then putting the new one back on is just as annoying,

not a really hard job as such, just a mildly annoying.
set a bit of time aside, its not as easy as it looks, 30min per side-ish at a normal working pace.


don't forget to take measurements of the complete assembled length (inner rack + tie rod end) so you can put the new one in and still have tracking close.

not all the rack ends/tie rod ends are exactly the same they vary from brand to brand,

so complete assembled measurement is very important

peter thomson
19-06-2009, 10:47 AM
Thanks Carsten . Looks like I'll have to grind a spanner down to fit the gap

peter thomson
19-06-2009, 08:55 PM
Did a test run on the breaker tonight and the rack end needs a 32mm spanner. Getting the tab washer fully knocked back allows the spanner to fit but it was very tight with the one I have.

keithatport
19-06-2009, 09:04 PM
I thought you were ill?

peter thomson
19-06-2009, 09:28 PM
I thought you were ill?

Painkillers go a long way - back on topic

Subaru ETA
20-06-2009, 10:09 AM
i have the tool to do them..

bradc
20-06-2009, 10:31 AM
Are you coming tomorrow then? :)

Subaru ETA
20-06-2009, 10:38 AM
lol nope, working! next sasturday i probably could

Gly
21-06-2009, 05:00 AM
just got home from fishing, workshop day next weekend if theres enough interest brad???

bradc
21-06-2009, 05:43 AM
Yep sounds good

Nick Mann
22-06-2009, 08:46 AM
I have done this job on my car and I ended up putting a 22 or 24 spanner on to the rack itself (The last 3 or 4 teeth aren't used, so a spanner on there is relatively safe.) and used a pipe wrench to undo the fitting. Make sure the pipe wrench is not on the ball joint though!!

This job is horrible because of the lack of access - nothing else.

Scottie
06-12-2009, 10:51 AM
What are the chances of the rack being stuffed rather than just the ends. I have been told my rack is buggered and about $800AUD to fix.
My car feels like you are driving on tram tracks. Also, the inner front tyres are shot (suspecting excessive toe).
Did the replacement of rack ends solve the problem?

Nick Mann
06-12-2009, 11:03 AM
Rack ends solved my problem, which was very similar to yours. I think the problem is that if both rack ends are worn, the testers can assume that it is the rack rather than the ends. For the cost of rack ends vs a rack, and the difficulty of the two jobs, definitely try the rack ends first.

Once the track rod end is off the tie-bar, remove the gaitor and then yank on the tie rod. You'll probably be able to feel the play in it.

Scottie
06-12-2009, 11:38 AM
Can the rack ends be repaired or is it just worth getting new ones? What else should i be doing while i do the rack ends?

Thanks.

wintertidenz
06-12-2009, 08:17 PM
Just get new rack ends, they are cheap (I think mine were $80 for aftermarket TRW ones).

It's worth getting the lower arms checked out at the same time, as in my case it was actually the straight lower arms that were stuffed, not the rack ends.

pitslayer
07-12-2009, 11:12 AM
Rack ends took an hour to do on my car and that was including new track rod ends aswell both sides, just remember to get the tracking done afterwards.

£100 in parts IIRC as opposed to £1000 for a new rack

Scottie
07-12-2009, 12:39 PM
Awesome, thanks guys. I will have a look for where i can get them from.

Cheers

pitslayer
07-12-2009, 07:51 PM
Big set of pump grips or stillsons or similar type grips usually work, ever Galant I have had I have replaced both rack arms and both track rod ends, really sorts the car out makes it feel so much more precise, but do get your tracking done straight away, while you cant count how many turns it has taken to take the old track rod ends of etc, it will more than likely be out due to wear.

taylor
26-09-2010, 11:21 AM
Sorry to dig up a old thread, but I have my motor out and a set of new rack ends to go in while its out

how do you back the locking washer off the end of the rack end? is there some sort of small pin through it? then I assume its big wrench off old one and on with new ones.

Thanks in adavance

Gly
26-09-2010, 07:29 PM
hammer and a screw driver or punch, to lift up the folded tabs,
you will need to recycle the washer when refitting

Subaru ETA
26-09-2010, 10:57 PM
depending on where you got the new ends from they may come with new washers